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Which Transfer Case Adapter?       #: 1117
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX,
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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 12:09 pm
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ILivermore
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Hello all. I am new to this forum. Joined because it looks like it is more active than most of the others. I am currently in the process of swapping the 3.0L v6 out of my 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 for a 5.0L V8 out of a 2000 Ford Explorer Limited AWD. The truck has a 4R44E transmission in it right now, and I will be using the 4R70W out of the explorer for the swap. I want to retain the Borg Warner 1354 transfer case that came in the ranger. My question is, do I need the 5" adapter or the 9" adapter? I'd prefer to not have to modify the driveshafts if possible. Thanks in advance!



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 12:16 pm
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Well hello and welcome to F-R! Quite a few swappers here there are about 6 of us that have done V8 swaps but since I did a 2WD I cannot directly answer your question. 410 will try to talk you out of it in favor of one from a F150 :)

Anyhow is this the "advanced adapters" kit you are speaking of? I have heard nightmares on selecting driveshafts but someone more versed will chime in.

Keep us in the loop on the project and post lots of pictures please. We have a built in gallery.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 12:31 pm
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ILivermore
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JAMMAN wrote:
Well hello and welcome to F-R! Quite a few swappers here there are about 6 of us that have done V8 swaps but since I did a 2WD I cannot directly answer your question. 410 will try to talk you out of it in favor of one from a F150 :)

Anyhow is this the "advanced adapters" kit you are speaking of? I have heard nightmares on selecting driveshafts but someone more versed will chime in.

Keep us in the loop on the project and post lots of pictures please. We have a built in gallery.


Yes it is. I would rather keep the transfer case thats in it than to have to swap transfer cases also 

Last edited on Tue Aug 7th, 2018 12:31 pm by ILivermore



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 12:37 pm
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410customs

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I do not think they make the 5" adapter anymore, but you can contact them and ask

my 1988 Bronco II uses the 4r70w to 1354 adapter and I wish I had never done this. Why?
Because Advance Adapters cost is like $600
Then you have to completely dis assemble your 4r70w transmission in order to install the output shaft that comes with the adapter
So a transmission rebuild / refurbish at the very least is required.
Now you will be stuck with a 4r70w transmission that is custom, meaning you cannot just use any 4r70w from a V8 explorer for the life of the truck you are stuck with the converted unit.

The ranger 1354 t case is a good unit, do not get me wrong. BUT there are other transfer cases that will bolt to the 4r70w WITHOUT the need for the expensive adapter and customized transmission

You can use a 4406m, 1356m, or even Ford NP205. This opens up another world for you as well because you can build a 1356/56 or 1356/205 doubler

Driveshaft modifications are a part of every V8 conversion, no real way around it. Always plan to modify driveshafts and exhaust, ALWAYS every conversion is different. Sometimes we will have a ford vehicle driveshaft here in our collection (I have about 50 driveshafts for cores) that will come close to working, but almost never be a direct bolt in.
I build my own front driveshafts most of the time, but I still pay to have the rear shaft modified to fit our ranger conversions (usually F150 shaft shortened/retubed) this should run about $250-350 HALF THE COST OF THE ADAPTER!!! let alone the added expense of installing the output shaft into your 4r70w trans. This winter I will be installing a new 4r70w into my Bronco II and finally be ditching that AA adapted custom trans I have (I plan to run a doubler)
4r70w has a Ford 6 bolt pattern with 30 spline output shaft, many t cases made that will bolt to this......

Even if you use the AA adapter chances of you keeping your existing driveshafts are SLIM, the T case will MOVE behind the V8. 5" adapter is great for the BII, 9" adapter works fine in everything else.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 12:39 pm
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ILivermore
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410customs wrote:
I do not think they make the 5" adapter anymore, but you can contact them and ask

my 1988 Bronco II uses the 4r70w to 1354 adapter and I wish I had never done this. Why?
Because Advance Adapters cost is like $600
Then you have to completely dis assemble your 4r70w transmission in order to install the output shaft that comes with the adapter
So a transmission rebuild / refurbish at the very least is required.
Now you will be stuck with a 4r70w transmission that is custom, meaning you cannot just use any 4r70w from a V8 explorer for the life of the truck you are stuck with the converted unit.

The ranger 1354 t case is a good unit, do not get me wrong. BUT there are other transfer cases that will bolt to the 4r70w WITHOUT the need for the expensive adapter and customized transmission


You can use a 4406m, 1356m, or even Ford NP205. This opens up another world for you as well because you can build a 1356/56 or 1356/205 doubler

Driveshaft modifications are a part of every V8 conversion, no real way around it. Always plan to modify driveshafts and exhaust, ALWAYS every conversion is different. Sometimes we will have a ford vehicle driveshaft here in our collection (I have about 50 driveshafts for cores) that will come close to working, but almost never be a direct bolt in.
I build my own front driveshafts most of the time, but I still pay to have the rear shaft modified to fit our ranger conversions (usually F150 shaft shortened/retubed) this should run about $250-350 HALF THE COST OF THE ADAPTER!!! let alone the added expense of installing the output shaft into your 4r70w trans. This winter I will be installing a new 4r70w into my Bronco II and finally be ditching that AA adapted custom trans I have (I plan to run a doubler)
4r70w has a Ford 6 bolt pattern with 30 spline output shaft, many t cases made that will bolt to this......

Even if you use the AA adapter chances of you keeping your existing driveshafts are SLIM, the T case will MOVE behind the V8. 5" adapter is great for the BII, 9" adapter works fine in everything else.

Yeah but aren't those all manual shifts? I would like to retain the electronic shift. And how would the 4406 mount?



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 02:30 pm
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:hi Welcome, Glad you joined us. Have fun and enjoy F-R. To bad that the donnor vehicle wasn't a 5.0 4X4 Explorer.
From Don
Grove City, Ohio. :frd



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 02:40 pm
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NoPower wrote:
:hi Welcome, Glad you joined us. Have fun and enjoy F-R. To bad that the donnor vehicle wasn't a 5.0 4X4 Explorer.
From Don
Grove City, Ohio. :frd

Did they even make 5.0 4x4's?



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 02:53 pm
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Pretty sure they were all awd. 410customs is the guy to ask about this. But I'm almost positive they were all awd.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 02:53 pm
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black06xlt wrote:
Pretty sure they were all awd. 410customs is the guy to ask about this. But I'm almost positive they were all awd.
That's what I was thinking



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 03:00 pm
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But anyway welcome to the site. We have a well blended knowledge base here. Post pics of your ride



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 03:08 pm
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I'm pretty sure the 06 thru 2010 had true 4wd but had the 4.6 so it was a different animal all together.

Actually I'm certain of it, my Dad had an 06 with 4hi and 4low. I'm sure because I borrowed it for an interstate trip, put it in 4HI just to see how it felt AND IT WOULDN'T COME OUT OF 4 HI. I drove it several hundred miles getting about 11MPG. Sometime the next day it magically started working again.

I decided not to buy it off him after that.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 03:44 pm
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all 5.0 trucks are AWD or RWD. 1996-2001 Explorer and Mercury Mountaineer
96-97.5 had GT40 heads, 97.5-01 are gt40p
98+ is returnless fuel

They all use the 4r70w automatic 1996-2001
The trans has 30 spline 6 bolt Ford output allowing the use of several different t cases

The BW4404 AWD t case is a 35/65 power split, it uses clutches and they burn up and create heat, full time power sucker MPG killer made for soccer moms

As soon as you ditch the AWD in a 5.0L Explorer and install a real t case, 2ed, 4hi and 4low you will see what I am talking about. They go from soccer mom suv to a real truck just like that. MPG goes up, passing power returns, and wear and tear on front tires, bearings and cv axles is noticable. Steering feels lighter, its is just a much better setup.

You can use manual t cases
1356
np205
4406

Or e shift 4406
and install a smaller fuel tank (explorer sport) and a stand alone 4x4 electronic control module (Motorolla box from 04+ Fords)



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 03:49 pm
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410customs

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To use electronic shift
you need 4406e shift t case from 4.6 expedition / F150
Motorolla control box from 04+ Ford Ranger
2wd, 4wd, 4low Dash switch from same ranger
transfer case shift motor wiring harness (from ranger or F150)
Explorer sport 14 gallon fuel tank (19 gallon explorer tank will not clear the shift motor)
The 4406 bolts right in
F150 / 4.6 truck front driveshaft bolts right in with conversion U joint
Rear driveshaft from F150 will need to be shortened
Stock 5.0L Explorer transmission mount is weak and should be upgraded for this
4406 t case bolts to transmission both E shift and manual shift
Manual shift you cut hole in the floor and add shifter and linkage
All conversion T cases you run the 4hi and 4low wires to the GEM module/instrument cluster for a fully functional conversion (4hi and 4low lights in dash)

I have done this SOOO MANY times
My 1996 explorer 4406 conversion thread can be found on the Explorer4x4.com website under my old username 410Fortune goes low range



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 04:48 pm
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410customs wrote:
To use electronic shift
you need 4406e shift t case from 4.6 expedition / F150
Motorolla control box from 04+ Ford Ranger
2wd, 4wd, 4low Dash switch from same ranger
transfer case shift motor wiring harness (from ranger or F150)
Explorer sport 14 gallon fuel tank (19 gallon explorer tank will not clear the shift motor)
The 4406 bolts right in
F150 / 4.6 truck front driveshaft bolts right in with conversion U joint
Rear driveshaft from F150 will need to be shortened
Stock 5.0L Explorer transmission mount is weak and should be upgraded for this
4406 t case bolts to transmission both E shift and manual shift
Manual shift you cut hole in the floor and add shifter and linkage
All conversion T cases you run the 4hi and 4low wires to the GEM module/instrument cluster for a fully functional conversion (4hi and 4low lights in dash)

I have done this SOOO MANY times
My 1996 explorer 4406 conversion thread can be found on the Explorer4x4.com website under my old username 410Fortune goes low range

Someone was saying the stock transfer case motor out of the 1354 will bolt right in to the 4406. Is there any truth to that?



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 05:48 pm
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They might! What year is your Ranger?
I have not done an e shift in a Ranger, I do not know if the E shift motor will clear the gas tank either. My knowledge is mostly Explorer but I am doing Rangers now so give me time :)

The 4406 E shift t case motor looks to be same part as Ranger shift motor, that would KIND OF simplify the conversion, not sure if your current GEM and 4x4 switch will work with the 4r70w and pcm or not...it might!

I do know the information is out there, I have seen many many Rangers converted to 302/4r70w and even the 4406e shift t case, they even do the electronic equipment group conversion with overhead console, center display and vehicle information center and electronic HVAC controls/climate control (Basically a Ranger gone Eddie Bauer/Limited Explorer) conversion 100%
I am more of a manual shift guy myself :) but "run what ya brung!" is my favorite motto

Last edited on Tue Aug 7th, 2018 05:51 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
They might! What year is your Ranger?
I have not done an e shift in a Ranger, I do not know if the E shift motor will clear the gas tank either. My knowledge is mostly Explorer but I am doing Rangers now so give me time :)

The 4406 E shift t case motor looks to be same part as Ranger shift motor, that would KIND OF simplify the conversion, not sure if your current GEM and 4x4 switch will work with the 4r70w and pcm or not...it might!

I do know the information is out there, I have seen many many Rangers converted to 302/4r70w and even the 4406e shift t case, they even do the electronic equipment group conversion with overhead console, center display and vehicle information center and electronic HVAC controls/climate control (Basically a Ranger gone Eddie Bauer/Limited Explorer) conversion 100%
I am more of a manual shift guy myself :) but "run what ya brung!" is my favorite motto

It is a 2000. Also, what other problems should I look for with this swap? 2000 Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0L FFV with 4r44e trans



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 07:24 pm
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ILivermore wrote:
410customs wrote:

They might! What year is your Ranger?
I have not done an e shift in a Ranger, I do not know if the E shift motor will clear the gas tank either. My knowledge is mostly Explorer but I am doing Rangers now so give me time :)

The 4406 E shift t case motor looks to be same part as Ranger shift motor, that would KIND OF simplify the conversion, not sure if your current GEM and 4x4 switch will work with the 4r70w and pcm or not...it might!

I do know the information is out there, I have seen many many Rangers converted to 302/4r70w and even the 4406e shift t case, they even do the electronic equipment group conversion with overhead console, center display and vehicle information center and electronic HVAC controls/climate control (Basically a Ranger gone Eddie Bauer/Limited Explorer) conversion 100%
I am more of a manual shift guy myself :) but "run what ya brung!" is my favorite motto

It is a 2000. Also, what other problems should I look for with this swap? 2000 Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0L FFV with 4r44e trans

Single cab or ex cab?



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 07:29 pm
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Here is an "eddie bauer" ranger, I'm amazed he hasn't posted in this thread:

https://ford-rangers.com/view_post.php?post_id=12514



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 10:21 pm
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swap is too easy in your truck
98-01 Ranger is pretty much exactly the same as a 98-01 Explorer until after the drivers doors, then the frames change
The ranger has vacuum hubs, I always delete these, they are problematic. Explorer cv axles, knuckles, unit bearings bolt directly on. Now you have a live front axle, no hubs
buy entire 5.0L explorer donor truck
Install 5.0L drivetrain, from radiator to tailhousing into ranger. There are about 4 wires to deal with on your 2000 3.0 conversion.
Add pats key, ign lock cylnder, module and pcm from 98-01 donor 5.0 truck
Bolt on 4406 t case
fit front d shaft from donor 4.6 F150 or expedition using conversion U joint
Have rear d shaft modified to suit
Have exhaust installed from stock explorer down pipes to a dual in single out muffler, back over tail and out
hookup 4x4 lights
charge AC
Decide if you want to use Explorer seats, console, rear axle, and more.......

Thats the short version
You can sell your 3.0L stuff to help pay for it all if any of it still works well / low miles
Most reliable RBV drivetrain ever = 302 / 4r70w and 1/2 ton t case of your choice

I will cover this in the sport trac conversion thread we have going right now
I have been fabricating anti rotation bar brackets for the snow tracked suzuki samurai
Once this project is finished (few days) we are back on the sport trac......

Last edited on Tue Aug 7th, 2018 10:43 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 10:28 pm
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You didn't mention the motor mounts, what do you do about that and is it the same for a 4.0 as it would be for a 3.0.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 10:34 pm
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I have done both
You can order brand new mounts for a 5.0L explorer (they are like $35 a pair) and use those
Or you can keep the 3.0L mounts and drill one hole in the 5.0L engine plate and bolt it down
Both methods work well
The trans mount many have used a urethane mustang AOD mount with a little fab. My BII has a customized Autofab urethane 4.0 mount, most explorers I do I usually end up building some sort of urethane bushing trans mount to support the 4406 or at least replace the factory 5.0 unit with a new one to get by for a while
Every conversion has a different timeline, budget and end goal

There are a few other things to know like keep the ranger ac condenser, much better mounting then the 5.0 unit (its mounted to the radiator and sucks to deal with)
Change the power steering high pressure hose and cooler with the 5.0 stuff while engine is out
I like to delete some of the plumbing on the 5.0L water jacket and vacuum system to simplify things
You keep the ranger canister purge valve and Evac setup and simply plug it into 5.0 upper intake
Use the 3.0 water temp sensor for the dash, screws into 5.0 engine
Use 98-01 explorer exhaust manifolds or plan to spend some good $$$$ to make more power with some TM headers / conversion headers / custom exhaust job. 96-97.5 welded manifolds suck
98-01 5.0 is returnless fuel, same as your 98-01 ranger, fuel line plugs directly in
You will need to remove some clips to extend your C-115 42 pin wiring harness to reach the 5.0 C115 plug, it stretches over okay if you remove enough clips/mounts and re route a little
I also grab the lock cylinders from the donor explorer, so you can install them into your Ranger and have one key for ignition and doors...
Some simple things to know for the basic ranger conversion, otherwise 96-01 5.0 bolts into 98-01 ranger is emissions legain, 02-05 ranger still bolts in can be done if you don't have emissions, basically a bolt in affair. 06+ ranger gets a little more tricky interfacing with the truck  but also drivetrain bolts into truck easily

Last edited on Tue Aug 7th, 2018 10:46 pm by 410customs



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I need to add that sometime in early 2000 they went away from the vacuum hubs to real ones LOL I have them on mine stock. I originally heard it was june of 2000 but I heard later that it happened... sooner. Easy to tell, pull a front wheel off if you see a black plastic cap with a little round mesh vent on the end... it is vacuum hubs. If there is a nut... it is the more desired one.



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410customs wrote:
swap is too easy in your truck
98-01 Ranger is pretty much exactly the same as a 98-01 Explorer until after the drivers doors, then the frames change
The ranger has vacuum hubs, I always delete these, they are problematic. Explorer cv axles, knuckles, unit bearings bolt directly on. Now you have a live front axle, no hubs
buy entire 5.0L explorer donor truck
Install 5.0L drivetrain, from radiator to tailhousing into ranger. There are about 4 wires to deal with on your 2000 3.0 conversion.
Add pats key, ign lock cylnder, module and pcm from 98-01 donor 5.0 truck
Bolt on 4406 t case
fit front d shaft from donor 4.6 F150 or expedition using conversion U joint
Have rear d shaft modified to suit
Have exhaust installed from stock explorer down pipes to a dual in single out muffler, back over tail and out
hookup 4x4 lights
charge AC
Decide if you want to use Explorer seats, console, rear axle, and more.......

Thats the short version
You can sell your 3.0L stuff to help pay for it all if any of it still works well / low miles
Most reliable RBV drivetrain ever = 302 / 4r70w and 1/2 ton t case of your choice

I will cover this in the sport trac conversion thread we have going right now
I have been fabricating anti rotation bar brackets for the snow tracked suzuki samurai
Once this project is finished (few days) we are back on the sport trac......

My front driveshaft is the superlift one with a dual cardan joint to accomodate for the lift. What should I do about that? I have the PATS module, lock  cylinder, 2 keys all from the donor. The only thing I don't have from the engine donor is the computer, but I do have one from a different 5.0 explorer. I work at a repair facility that has a Ford IDS scan tool, so they should be able to program that. Also, my truck is already a live axle truck. 2000 was the last year for vacuum hubs, and I have a late build. Did you ever figure out if I can use the stock transfer case motor and wiring on the 4406? Also, how does the transfer case mount to the ranger crossmember?

Last edited on Wed Aug 8th, 2018 08:56 am by ILivermore



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transfer cases dont mount to a crossmember, they hang off the back of the transmission tailhousing.
The 4r70w bolts to your transmission crossmember just like if it was a V8 explorer

You can likely re use some of your front driveshaft, however it will not work with the 4406 output flange so it will need modified

The PCM will need to be programmed for the PATS key and PATS module, or heck program it to forget PATS all together.

I keep forgetting after 2000 Rangers had no hubs, those comments are for the 98-99 crowd

I am not sure of the 1354 E shift motor will bolt onto a 4406E shift best way to find out is to look up both part numbers see if they are compatible

Your PCM better be the same year as your engine, there are wiring changes sometimes mid year. It can be a real headache trying to piece together a conversion because the wires do move, change colors and location from year to year (96 different from 97.5, 98 went digital signals wiring changed again, 99-01 went returnless fuel) There are lots of mid year changes. As long as your PCM is from similar year you should be able to make it work



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410customs wrote:
transfer cases dont mount to a crossmember, they hang off the back of the transmission tailhousing.
The 4r70w bolts to your transmission crossmember just like if it was a V8 explorer

You can likely re use some of your front driveshaft, however it will not work with the 4406 output flange so it will need modified

The PCM will need to be programmed for the PATS key and PATS module, or heck program it to forget PATS all together.

I keep forgetting after 2000 Rangers had no hubs, those comments are for the 98-99 crowd

I am not sure of the 1354 E shift motor will bolt onto a 4406E shift best way to find out is to look up both part numbers see if they are compatible

Your PCM better be the same year as your engine, there are wiring changes sometimes mid year. It can be a real headache trying to piece together a conversion because the wires do move, change colors and location from year to year (96 different from 97.5, 98 went digital signals wiring changed again, 99-01 went returnless fuel) There are lots of mid year changes. As long as your PCM is from similar year you should be able to make it work

PCM is the same year. So PATS module, 2 keys, and lock cylinder all came out of the engine donor. What about the rear driveshaft? Any idea what would need to be modified there?



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410customs wrote:
transfer cases dont mount to a crossmember, they hang off the back of the transmission tailhousing.
The 4r70w bolts to your transmission crossmember just like if it was a V8 explorer

You can likely re use some of your front driveshaft, however it will not work with the 4406 output flange so it will need modified

The PCM will need to be programmed for the PATS key and PATS module, or heck program it to forget PATS all together.

I keep forgetting after 2000 Rangers had no hubs, those comments are for the 98-99 crowd

I am not sure of the 1354 E shift motor will bolt onto a 4406E shift best way to find out is to look up both part numbers see if they are compatible

Your PCM better be the same year as your engine, there are wiring changes sometimes mid year. It can be a real headache trying to piece together a conversion because the wires do move, change colors and location from year to year (96 different from 97.5, 98 went digital signals wiring changed again, 99-01 went returnless fuel) There are lots of mid year changes. As long as your PCM is from similar year you should be able to make it work

I just looked, they are not the same transfer case motor.



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OKAY nice work
Now that does not mean they wont bolt up, the part numbers change because they use different wiring pigtails while the motor itself maybe exactly the same
Best way to tell is have both parts side by side
Next time I see a 4406 e shift (I see them in the yards) I will have a look see



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410customs wrote:
OKAY nice work
Now that does not mean they wont bolt up, the part numbers change because they use different wiring pigtails while the motor itself maybe exactly the same
Best way to tell is have both parts side by side
Next time I see a 4406 e shift (I see them in the yards) I will have a look see

Yeah, idk what i'm gonna do now. Sounds like a lot of work to use the 4406.



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4406 e shift can be some work but its really not that bad, Wiring in the motorolla 4x4 control module is rather easy, I have all the wiring info. There are not many wires and all of them are available at the gem module behind your radio. The moto box works with the 4406 shift motor and your factory dash switch
I use this same module to delete control trac awd from earlier explorers and retain the e shift t case

The question I do not know the answer to is will the 4406 r shift clear a ranger fuel tank or is a smaller tank needed? In a 4 door explorer we must use a tank from a sport to make room
With the manual shift case none of this is an issue
But you do have to cut a hole in the floor and add a boot



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410customs wrote:
4406 e shift can be some work but its really not that bad, Wiring in the motorolla 4x4 control module is rather easy, I have all the wiring info. There are not many wires and all of them are available at the gem module behind your radio. The moto box works with the 4406 shift motor and your factory dash switch
I use this same module to delete control trac awd from earlier explorers and retain the e shift t case

The question I do not know the answer to is will the 4406 r shift clear a ranger fuel tank or is a smaller tank needed? In a 4 door explorer we must use a tank from a sport to make room
With the manual shift case none of this is an issue
But you do have to cut a hole in the floor and add a boot

I will probably just have to go with the 1354 for now



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ILivermore wrote:
410customs wrote:

4406 e shift can be some work but its really not that bad, Wiring in the motorolla 4x4 control module is rather easy, I have all the wiring info. There are not many wires and all of them are available at the gem module behind your radio. The moto box works with the 4406 shift motor and your factory dash switch
I use this same module to delete control trac awd from earlier explorers and retain the e shift t case

The question I do not know the answer to is will the 4406 r shift clear a ranger fuel tank or is a smaller tank needed? In a 4 door explorer we must use a tank from a sport to make room
With the manual shift case none of this is an issue
But you do have to cut a hole in the floor and add a boot

I will probably just have to go with the 1354 for now

Update: I picked up a 4406 electric shift transfer case out of a 1999 F-150. I think I can use the stock ranger transfer case motor, wiring, and switch



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Update: Truck runs and drives. Idles poorly. It has a 4406E transfer case in it and it appears to shift into four high, however it does not shift into four low. Can't here the transfer case motor move, no light on the dash. Any insight



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Has code P1729: 4x4 Low Switch Error



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Awesome you have a 5.0 Ranger!!

To get the truck to shift to 4x4 low range you must be stopped and in Neutral

Why does it run poorly? What do you mean?



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410customs wrote:
Awesome you have a 5.0 Ranger!!

To get the truck to shift to 4x4 low range you must be stopped and in Neutral

Why does it run poorly? What do you mean?

It does not work even if you are stopped and in neutral. The motor doesn't seem like its being commanded to switch. The 4low light doesn't come on either. And it idles poorly. After it is warm it will idle from like 500-600 RPM and sputter and want to die



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ILivermore wrote:
410customs wrote:

Awesome you have a 5.0 Ranger!!

To get the truck to shift to 4x4 low range you must be stopped and in Neutral

Why does it run poorly? What do you mean?

It does not work even if you are stopped and in neutral. The motor doesn't seem like its being commanded to switch. The 4low light doesn't come on either. And it idles poorly. After it is warm it will idle from like 500-600 RPM and sputter and want to die

I'm using the Ranger motor and harness for transfer case. 4high works but not 4low



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Did the 4low work on your old transfer case?


Does the check engine light work? (are there any codes)
How did the V8 donor run before the swap?



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410customs wrote:
Did the 4low work on your old transfer case?


Does the check engine light work? (are there any codes)
How did the V8 donor run before the swap?

Has code P1729: 4x4 Low Switch Error. Check engine light works. Ran fine



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ILivermore wrote:
410customs wrote:

Did the 4low work on your old transfer case?


Does the check engine light work? (are there any codes)
How did the V8 donor run before the swap?

Has code P1729: 4x4 Low Switch Error. Check engine light works. Ran fine

4low worked previously



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Check all fuses

Can you try removing the shift motor from the new 4406e t case. 
Try shifting it into LOW and see if the motor moves.

With the truck in N see if you can shift the t case into low range manually (pliers or vise grips)

Put the truck in N and see if it will start? If the truck does not start in N then you need to adjust the NSS on the side of the trans


I am pretty sure the GEM module in a 2000 Ranger is what controls the 4wd switching. 
We may need to compare some wiring charts here from 2000 ranger to 2000 explorer, the Gem module may not know you are in N thus stopping the low range shift....
It's quite possible your Gem module is not happy with the new transmission/conversion, lets start with the basics. Fuses, relays and testing at the t case itself




Is the check engine light on? Do you have any codes aside from the low range codes?
If not codes I would start by checking spark plugs and wires. The 5.0L eats cheap or old plug wires
Next would be looking at the conversion itself, and running some drive cycles, then pulling codes. Do you have the ability to monitor live data?

Any intake leaks? Any missing vacuum lines? What is fuel rail pressure?

Last edited on Thu Nov 29th, 2018 03:17 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
Check all fuses

Can you try removing the shift motor from the new 4406e t case. 
Try shifting it into LOW and see if the motor moves.

With the truck in N see if you can shift the t case into low range manually (pliers or vise grips)

Put the truck in N and see if it will start? If the truck does not start in N then you need to adjust the NSS on the side of the trans


I am pretty sure the GEM module in a 2000 Ranger is what controls the 4wd switching. 
We may need to compare some wiring charts here from 2000 ranger to 2000 explorer, the Gem module may not know you are in N thus stopping the low range shift....
It's quite possible your Gem module is not happy with the new transmission/conversion, lets start with the basics. Fuses, relays and testing at the t case itself




Is the check engine light on? Do you have any codes aside from the low range codes?
If not codes I would start by checking spark plugs and wires. The 5.0L eats cheap or old plug wires
Next would be looking at the conversion itself, and running some drive cycles, then pulling codes. Do you have the ability to monitor live data?

Any intake leaks? Any missing vacuum lines? What is fuel rail pressure?

It has no other codes. Isn't running lean or rich. Plugs and wires are new, Motorcraft. I was thinking it was a GEM issue, but I have talked to guys that have done this swap and they all say it is plug and play



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ILivermore wrote:
410customs wrote:

Check all fuses

Can you try removing the shift motor from the new 4406e t case. 
Try shifting it into LOW and see if the motor moves.

With the truck in N see if you can shift the t case into low range manually (pliers or vise grips)

Put the truck in N and see if it will start? If the truck does not start in N then you need to adjust the NSS on the side of the trans


I am pretty sure the GEM module in a 2000 Ranger is what controls the 4wd switching. 
We may need to compare some wiring charts here from 2000 ranger to 2000 explorer, the Gem module may not know you are in N thus stopping the low range shift....
It's quite possible your Gem module is not happy with the new transmission/conversion, lets start with the basics. Fuses, relays and testing at the t case itself




Is the check engine light on? Do you have any codes aside from the low range codes?
If not codes I would start by checking spark plugs and wires. The 5.0L eats cheap or old plug wires
Next would be looking at the conversion itself, and running some drive cycles, then pulling codes. Do you have the ability to monitor live data?

Any intake leaks? Any missing vacuum lines? What is fuel rail pressure?

It has no other codes. Isn't running lean or rich. Plugs and wires are new, Motorcraft. I was thinking it was a GEM issue, but I have talked to guys that have done this swap and they all say it is plug and play

Truck starts in neutral



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okay so no codes yet anyways
fuel pressure test

test transfer case and motor



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 Posted: Thu Nov 29th, 2018 09:14 pm
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found these looks like 2000 Ranger does have a 4x4 control module that works with the Gem module?

You might have some wiring to do to get low range to shift
Just starting to look into this

You can see all the fuses and parts of the 2000 Ranger 4x4 system in these two diagrams

Last edited on Thu Nov 29th, 2018 09:15 pm by 410customs



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I verified it was not a mechanical issue with the transfer case. I pulled the motor off and put it in 4low with pliers. And activating the motor off the transfer case still would not engage 4low



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there is a shift control module I had one in my hand a few days ago but it is basically relays. If you remove the gem it is right behind the gem... in the direction of the front of the truck. It is what "clicks" when you move the switch.

I'd work on the rough running motor then worry about the 4wd.

Congrats on getting yours running at all!



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Not shifting into low range is a conversion issue, I found at least one other person on the internet with a similar conversion that cannot get low range.
The system is not happy about shifting into low for some reason, we can figure out why by sorting out the wiring differences between the ranger t case and the 4406. The 5.0L never had any sort of shift on the fly 4wd, or inputs from the t case, speed sensor or brake circuits as the AWD was purely mechanical and full time.

It is likely a signal on one wire that needs to be fed to make the Gem or 4x4 control module happy, before it will command the low range shift.

First I would find out why its running poorly??

firing order correct?
Fuel PSI good?
scan for codes?

Last edited on Sun Dec 2nd, 2018 10:24 am by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
Not shifting into low range is a conversion issue, I found at least one other person on the internet with a similar conversion that cannot get low range.
The system is not happy about shifting into low for some reason, we can figure out why by sorting out the wiring differences between the ranger t case and the 4406. The 5.0L never had any sort of shift on the fly 4wd, or inputs from the t case, speed sensor or brake circuits as the AWD was purely mechanical and full time.

It is likely a signal on one wire that needs to be fed to make the Gem or 4x4 control module happy, before it will command the low range shift.

First I would find out why its running poorly??

firing order correct?
Fuel PSI good?
scan for codes?

Do you have a link to this discussion so I can read through it? I think that the poor idle may be due to running open cats



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ILivermore wrote:
410customs wrote:

Not shifting into low range is a conversion issue, I found at least one other person on the internet with a similar conversion that cannot get low range.
The system is not happy about shifting into low for some reason, we can figure out why by sorting out the wiring differences between the ranger t case and the 4406. The 5.0L never had any sort of shift on the fly 4wd, or inputs from the t case, speed sensor or brake circuits as the AWD was purely mechanical and full time.

It is likely a signal on one wire that needs to be fed to make the Gem or 4x4 control module happy, before it will command the low range shift.

First I would find out why its running poorly??

firing order correct?
Fuel PSI good?
scan for codes?

Do you have a link to this discussion so I can read through it? I think that the poor idle may be due to running open cats

I am so frustrated with it that I'm about ready to sell it.



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Which part... bad idle or no 4wheel low?

Cats are not causing bad idle even if empty. The upstream O sensors are all you really "need" and they are before the cats. 5.0's do not idle bad unless there is something really wrong like a bigger than normal vacuum leak, or electrical malfunction.

I'd start looking for obvious stupid things being you evidently are sharper than average about doing things and figuring things out. Get it in the dark and spray some water on the motor while it is running, look for blue spark traces. Disconnect the power brake line and put your thumb over it. If it is loud you might not be able to hear the vacuum leak.

If you took the intake off while putting the motor in maybe you got a piece of crap under it or screwed one of the gaskets up.

Has to be something simple.



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JAMMAN wrote:
Which part... bad idle or no 4wheel low?

Cats are not causing bad idle even if empty. The upstream O sensors are all you really "need" and they are before the cats. 5.0's do not idle bad unless there is something really wrong like a bigger than normal vacuum leak, or electrical malfunction.

I'd start looking for obvious stupid things being you evidently are sharper than average about doing things and figuring things out. Get it in the dark and spray some water on the motor while it is running, look for blue spark traces. Disconnect the power brake line and put your thumb over it. If it is loud you might not be able to hear the vacuum leak.

If you took the intake off while putting the motor in maybe you got a piece of crap under it or screwed one of the gaskets up.

Has to be something simple.

Both. I'm more concerned with the 4low issue. I'm sure the run ability issue can be fixed



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agree 5.0L are pretty simple to get them to run smoothly
If it runs like crap there will be codes in computer, unless it is plugs/wires or fuel pressure

It may need some drive cycles before the codes show up

The discussion I found about the low range issue, basically they said I cannot get low range either....but never came back to fix it

I can make your 4x4 work, we can ditch the factory system you have now and wire in a better system
The 02-04 motorolla 4x4 controller module can be wired into your truck very easily and bypass your factory GEM and 4x4controller.....

When I do a 4406e shift t case, or 1354e shift t case or control trac delete I use the 2002-2004 Ranger / Explorer motorolla 4x4 control module
This box can be wired into just about any vehicle and it will shift your 4x4 motor using your dash switch.

I have extra motorolla boxes, I collect them from the junk yards. They have wiring pigtails and I have the wiring information. There are about 10 wires total to hook up and it works between your 4x4 dash switch and your 4406e shift t case motor...........



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410customs wrote:
agree 5.0L are pretty simple to get them to run smoothly
If it runs like crap there will be codes in computer, unless it is plugs/wires or fuel pressure

It may need some drive cycles before the codes show up

The discussion I found about the low range issue, basically they said I cannot get low range either....but never came back to fix it

I can make your 4x4 work, we can ditch the factory system you have now and wire in a better system
The 02-04 motorolla 4x4 controller module can be wired into your truck very easily and bypass your factory GEM and 4x4controller.....

When I do a 4406e shift t case, or 1354e shift t case or control trac delete I use the 2002-2004 Ranger / Explorer motorolla 4x4 control module
This box can be wired into just about any vehicle and it will shift your 4x4 motor using your dash switch.

I have extra motorolla boxes, I collect them from the junk yards. They have wiring pigtails and I have the wiring information. There are about 10 wires total to hook up and it works between your 4x4 dash switch and your 4406e shift t case motor...........

How hard is it to wire in and install? And how much are the boxes?



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ILivermore wrote:
410customs wrote:

agree 5.0L are pretty simple to get them to run smoothly
If it runs like crap there will be codes in computer, unless it is plugs/wires or fuel pressure

It may need some drive cycles before the codes show up

The discussion I found about the low range issue, basically they said I cannot get low range either....but never came back to fix it

I can make your 4x4 work, we can ditch the factory system you have now and wire in a better system
The 02-04 motorolla 4x4 controller module can be wired into your truck very easily and bypass your factory GEM and 4x4controller.....

When I do a 4406e shift t case, or 1354e shift t case or control trac delete I use the 2002-2004 Ranger / Explorer motorolla 4x4 control module
This box can be wired into just about any vehicle and it will shift your 4x4 motor using your dash switch.

I have extra motorolla boxes, I collect them from the junk yards. They have wiring pigtails and I have the wiring information. There are about 10 wires total to hook up and it works between your 4x4 dash switch and your 4406e shift t case motor...........

How hard is it to wire in and install? And how much are the boxes?

Truck is a 2000 Ranger XLT 4x4 (live axle) 3.0L
Engine & trans donor: 2000 Explorer Limited AWD 5.0L
Transfer case donor: 1999 F-150 XLT 4x4 5.4L



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ILivermore wrote:
ILivermore wrote:

410customs wrote:


agree 5.0L are pretty simple to get them to run smoothly
If it runs like crap there will be codes in computer, unless it is plugs/wires or fuel pressure

It may need some drive cycles before the codes show up

The discussion I found about the low range issue, basically they said I cannot get low range either....but never came back to fix it

I can make your 4x4 work, we can ditch the factory system you have now and wire in a better system
The 02-04 motorolla 4x4 controller module can be wired into your truck very easily and bypass your factory GEM and 4x4controller.....

When I do a 4406e shift t case, or 1354e shift t case or control trac delete I use the 2002-2004 Ranger / Explorer motorolla 4x4 control module
This box can be wired into just about any vehicle and it will shift your 4x4 motor using your dash switch.

I have extra motorolla boxes, I collect them from the junk yards. They have wiring pigtails and I have the wiring information. There are about 10 wires total to hook up and it works between your 4x4 dash switch and your 4406e shift t case motor...........

How hard is it to wire in and install? And how much are the boxes?

Truck is a 2000 Ranger XLT 4x4 (live axle) 3.0L
Engine & trans donor: 2000 Explorer Limited AWD 5.0L
Transfer case donor: 1999 F-150 XLT 4x4 5.4L

Update: Transfer case went partially into four low after fiddling with it a bit. The transfer case motor got super hot and now the 4high light doesn't come on and the 4high range doesn't work



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I'm wondering if the absolute position of the shift rod in the transfer case differs somewhat between the 1354 and 4406. The diagram is a little less than a great explanation.

The switches it shows in the bottom rectangle are actually in the motor. If the angular position the driver in the motor is in does not match the actuator shaft position for 4H, 4L or 2 then it will never know it is there or might overshoot. This could account for the warm motor it might be fighting itself.

I have a 1354 but have not dropped the change for the 4406 yet. From what I am reading here we need to figure out the shaft position in relation to the screw holes for both transfer cases.

I bet the position is different on the 2. Maybe not by much but enough to make it difficult?

This needs to be resolved, most of the threads I see with this swap they use the mechanical transfer case.



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JAMMAN wrote:
I'm wondering if the absolute position of the shift rod in the transfer case differs somewhat between the 1354 and 4406. The diagram is a little less than a great explanation.

The switches it shows in the bottom rectangle are actually in the motor. If the angular position the driver in the motor is in does not match the actuator shaft position for 4H, 4L or 2 then it will never know it is there or might overshoot. This could account for the warm motor it might be fighting itself.

I have a 1354 but have not dropped the change for the 4406 yet. From what I am reading here we need to figure out the shaft position in relation to the screw holes for both transfer cases.

I bet the position is different on the 2. Maybe not by much but enough to make it difficult?

This needs to be resolved, most of the threads I see with this swap they use the mechanical transfer case.

I might just have to cut my losses and put a 4406M in it. I now have a lifted truck with no 4WD.



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This is the absolute best thread on this I have ever seen:
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/getting-bw-1354-or-4406-or-other-elec-transfer-case-to-work.290109/

But it looks like your absolute best and quickest thing to do would be to throw the 4406 shift motor back on there and get a motorola box from 410, there seems to be enough of a difference in the shift positions to make people go to great lengths adjusting it.

Whatever you do if the 1354 motor got hot I wouldn't use it.



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Yikes. After reading through that thread it looks like I'm gonna have to put a 4406M in.



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Just use the motorolla box!!! You have a junk yard near you right? You can find these boxes in several different Fords
All the wires you need are already in place in your truck

So it goes like this, 1986-1994 the trucks had a stand alone 4x4 control module (remember the little box under the dash with the white  button and little red light)

in 1995 they added some of the ESOF functions to the Gem module and a small 4x4control box. This system is a PITA!!

In 2002 they went back to a stand alone 4x4 Control module...the motorolla box

Same dash switch, same shift motor controls, GEM no longer involved

So you can get your system working by wiring in the motorolla box and possibly using the 4406e motor.

The shift motors are slightly adjustable for position, remember the hash marks on the armature top plate? You may be able to adjust your current motor until you get hi and low.........if that doesnt work then use the motorolla box and possibly the 4406e shift motor.

Ill dig up the  wiring info so you can see what is involved
I can ship you one of these boxes as well, I give my stepsons $40 for each one they bring me from the junk yards, so $40 plus shipping and its yours I have about 8 of them


Any 2002-2004 Ranger under the pass kick panel you will find the motorolla box and cut the wiring pigtails too.....also 2002-04 Explorers have them and several other fords..

Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 10:12 am by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
Just use the motorolla box!!! You have a junk yard near you right? You can find these boxes in several different Fords
All the wires you need are already in place in your truck

So it goes like this, 1986-1994 the trucks had a stand alone 4x4 control module (remember the little box under the dash with the white  button and little red light)

in 1995 they added some of the ESOF functions to the Gem module and a small 4x4control box. This system is a PITA!!

In 2002 they went back to a stand alone 4x4 Control module...the motorolla box

Same dash switch, same shift motor controls, GEM no longer involved

So you can get your system working by wiring in the motorolla box and possibly using the 4406e motor.

The shift motors are slightly adjustable for position, remember the hash marks on the armature top plate? You may be able to adjust your current motor until you get hi and low.........if that doesnt work then use the motorolla box and possibly the 4406e shift motor.

Ill dig up the  wiring info so you can see what is involved
I can ship you one of these boxes as well, I give my stepsons $40 for each one they bring me from the junk yards, so $40 plus shipping and its yours I have about 8 of them


Any 2002-2004 Ranger under the pass kick panel you will find the motorolla box and cut the wiring pigtails too.....also 2002-04 Explorers have them and several other fords..

I think i'm just gonna go with a manual case and get some reliability out of the system. Already have a 4406M case out of an '03 F-150 with 125K on it on the way for $175. Still trying to find the shifter assembly and how to make the lever work with a body lift. Also have to figure out how to wire the dash lights. Any insight on that?

Do you think I should go the manual route?

Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 12:37 pm by ILivermore



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Yes
My old 96 Sploder I converted to the 4406m and I had a 3" body lift Lol

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/410fortune-96-awd-ex-goes-low-range.166605/ 

Shifter assembly can be a PITA to find
The reason is when the junk yards take apart a truck the transmission goes to one shelf and the t cases go to another

The linkage is mounted to the transmission
So what I did/do if I cannot find it at my local junk yards, I will go to the wrecker and explain to them what I am looking for and why, usually they will send me back to the shelf of transmissions with a guy and I will point out what I need
You need linkage off a 4r70w 4x4 transmission from a F150
AND the connector rod that goes from t case lever to the linkage

Let me see if I can find some part numbers for you

The body lift has little to no effect on you, in fact I usually cut down the F150 4x4 shift lever a few inches when we put these in explorers because they are too long, chop and weld... with the body lift the shift lever length is just about right
I used a shifter boot from a geo tracker in my 96, it worked perfectly.

Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 01:23 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
Yes
My old 96 Sploder I converted to the 4406m and I had a 3" body lift Lol

Shifter assembly can be a PITA to find
The reason is when the junk yards take apart a truck the transmission goes to one shelf and the t cases go to another

The linkage is mounted to the transmission
So what I did/do if I cannot find it at my local junk yards, I will go to the wrecker and explain to them what I am looking for and why, usually they will send me back to the shelf of transmissions with a guy and I will point out what I need
You need linkage off a 4r70w 4x4 transmission from a F150
AND the connector rod that goes from t case lever to the linkage

Let me see if I can find some part numbers for you

I'll have to double check that the transfer case they're sending me is out of a 4R70W truck



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And I may lengthen the shifter some how. I'm a big dude and don't want to have to bend over to use it. Could run into issues because I have a full length console



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you wont run into issues, explorers also have full console
Check out the pictures in the thread I posted from Explorerforum.... you can see my 96 explorer with 4406, details about the linkage, and the body lift

The 4406 doesnt care if it was behind a 4r70w/AODe,or not, they are all 30 spline input Ford 6 bolt t case pattern

In the larger trucks or F-150 with the 5.4L they used the E4OD/4r100 transmission and the 4407 t case......still a 30 spline input and 6 bolt pattern, but too large to fit a ranger.......



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I found out how to make your 1354 motor work

There is a wire missing from your 5.0L V8 transmission wiring harness that the V6 trucks have:

In the V6 transmission harness there is a red/white wire, this is the neutral safety feed. On your V6 truck it goes through the C115 42 pin connector under your hood. On the V8 transmission wiring harness this wire is missing.
You need to add it (on the 5.0L side)
Then you need to make sure this wire goes into the Gem module, pin 22 on connector C282

Now you can use your 1354 shift motor to turn your 4406e case

I just spoke to a good friend of mine Brett who has done this conversion....he filled us in on the details

Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 01:35 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
you wont run into issues, explorers also have full console
Check out the pictures in the thread I posted from Explorerforum.... you can see my 96 explorer with 4406, details about the linkage, and the body lift

The 4406 doesnt care if it was behind a 4r70w/AODe,or not, they are all 30 spline input Ford 6 bolt t case pattern

In the larger trucks or F-150 with the 5.4L they used the E4OD/4r100 transmission and the 4407 t case......still a 30 spline input and 6 bolt pattern, but too large to fit a ranger.......

So its probably the shifters that are different between the 4R100 and 4R70W?



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Yes shifters SLIGHTLY different, but a 4r100 shifter assembly can be made to work...

You can use the shifter assembly from a 1356, 4406, or 4407 t case...they all have the same shift pattern
The difference is in the length of the rod between shifter and t case..... I have had to build these a few times to make our setup work for different conversions...again I usually end up shortening or lengthening the parts we have in front of us with a grinder and a welder.....
The only one I KNOW will bolt onto your 5.0L transmission is the linkage from a 4.2 or 4.6L F150 with the  4r70w and 4406
The Gen III Explorer also uses a 4r70 behind the 4.6, but they never had a manual T case
Shifter/linkage can also come from a 5 speed truck

Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 01:40 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
I found out how to make your 1354 motor work

There is a wire missing from your 5.0L V8 transmission wiring harness that the V6 trucks have:

In the V6 transmission harness there is a red/white wire, this is the neutral safety feed. On your V6 truck it goes through the C115 42 pin connector under your hood. On the V8 transmission wiring harness this wire is missing.
You need to add it (on the 5.0L side)
Then you need to make sure this wire goes into the Gem module, pin 22 on connector C282

Now you can use your 1354 shift motor to turn your 4406e case

I just spoke to a good friend of mine Brett who has done this conversion....he filled us in on the details

Is the transfer case throw the same as the 1354? I read something on that yesterday



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Yes 1354 motor will turn 4406
I am now in the know
Brett has done this more then once, Brett is my wrenching buddy we have done many conversions together...he also builds all of my auto transmissions. Brett goes WAAAAY back on this Ranger Explorer stuff
Brett has a 98 5.0L Eddie Bauer explorer he put together for his dad to daily drive. It is using the 4406e with the motorolla box and a 1354 wiring harness and shift motor

It makes sense we have to run a wire from the 5.0L transmission to the Gem Module for the neutral safety...no 5.0L trucks were ever built with ESOF 4wd so they never needed this wire

I was trying to get a hold of Brett about this since we started researching your issue....we finally texted back and forth this morning

Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 01:45 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
Yes 1354 motor will turn 4406
I am now in the know
Brett has done this more then once, Brett is my wrenching buddy we have done many conversions together...he also builds all of my auto transmissions. Brett goes WAAAAY back on this Ranger Explorer stuff
Brett has a 98 5.0L Eddie Bauer explorer he put together for his dad to daily drive. It is using the 4406e with the motorolla box and a 1354 wiring harness and shift motor

It makes sense we have to run a wire from the 5.0L transmission to the Gem Module for the neutral safety...no 5.0L trucks were ever built with ESOF 4wd so they never needed this wire

So thats all that needs to be done? That 1 wire? I'm assuming that 4low works because the truck doesn't need to be in neutral to shift it?



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yes the wire is all that's needed

To get the shift motor to turn your t case into low range the Gem module must see that you are stopped (BOO circuit) and in Neutral (NSS circuit)



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410customs wrote:
yes the wire is all that's needed

To get the shift motor to turn your t case into low range the Gem module must see that you are stopped (BOO circuit) and in Neutral (NSS circuit)

Only issue i'm running into now is those pins and connectors don't match on my truck



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ILivermore wrote:
410customs wrote:

yes the wire is all that's needed

To get the shift motor to turn your t case into low range the Gem module must see that you are stopped (BOO circuit) and in Neutral (NSS circuit)

Only issue i'm running into now is those pins and connectors don't match on my truck

Are those connector numbers you're giving explorer numbers?



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I'm not sure , those were off the top of Brett's head. he is at work

C115 is the large 42 pin connector on your firewall all 96+ RBV have this

C282 is one of the connectors at the Gem module
Should be the same on all Rangers with gem module 98+?


Do you still have your V6 wiring harness?
What we are to do it unpin the neutral safety from your Rangers transmission to C115, and pin it in place in the 5.0 harness from trans to plug C115
Also check on the Ranger that this wire does indeed connect to the Gem module (continuity)

I can look up some wiring diagrams and trace this out I have a 2000 model wiring book downstairs.....

Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 02:04 pm by 410customs



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See this picture from earlier in the thread?

2000 model 4x4 wiring

Look at Gem module wiring


Pin 22, circuit 463,  is Neutral input from DTRS.....Neutral SW IN........ Connector 223.....the 22 pin connector
you need to connect your digital transmission range sensor, pin 8 Red/wht (DTRS side of transmission Chevy guys call this the Neutral Safety Switch) to your Gem module and then you will have low range shift

Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 02:11 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
I'm not sure , those were off the top of Brett's head. he is at work

C115 is the large 42 pin connector on your firewall all 96+ RBV have this

C282 is one of the connectors at the Gem module
Should be the same on all Rangers with gem module 98+?


Do you still have your V6 wiring harness?
What we are to do it unpin the neutral safety from your Rangers transmission to C115, and pin it in place in the 5.0 harness from trans to plug C115
Also check on the Ranger that this wire does indeed connect to the Gem module (continuity)

I can look up some wiring diagrams and trace this out I have a 2000 model wiring book downstairs.....

If you could that would be a huge help to me ( you've been a huge help already, thank you for that)



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410customs wrote:
See this picture from earlier in the thread?

2000 model 4x4 wiring

Look at Gem module wiring


Pin 22, circuit 463,  is Neutral input from DTRS.....Neutral SW IN........ Connector 223.....the 22 pin connector
you need to connect your digital transmission range sensor, pin 8 Red/wht (DTRS side of transmission Chevy guys call this the Neutral Safety Switch) to your Gem module and then you will have low range shift

Okay. Looks i'll need to source a couple of pins



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410customs wrote:
See this picture from earlier in the thread?

2000 model 4x4 wiring

Look at Gem module wiring


Pin 22, circuit 463,  is Neutral input from DTRS.....Neutral SW IN........ Connector 223.....the 22 pin connector
you need to connect your digital transmission range sensor, pin 8 Red/wht (DTRS side of transmission Chevy guys call this the Neutral Safety Switch) to your Gem module and then you will have low range shift

I tried this and it did not fix the issue.



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I have one in the back, both sides I'll run back and snap a pic JIC

Attachment: fordc115connectorpinout-001.jpg (Downloaded 27 times)



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OK Mine don't look like that. Mine look more like C110, I have the same plug on a 98 ranger, 3 X 2000 rangers, 99 expo and a 97 mountaineer. All square and identical to this:




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JAMMAN wrote:
OK Mine don't look like that. Mine look more like C110, I have the same plug on a 98 ranger, 3 X 2000 rangers, 99 expo and a 97 mountaineer. All square and identical to this:



I guess I don't really understand how that connector plays into this. Basically I just ran the wire from the range sensor straight to the GEM



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Yes mine is C110 and yours is also. 3 X 2000's like that, one born with 2.5 one born with 3.0 one born with 4.0 yours has to be the same.




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Did you get it to work? If so that is all that matters :)



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JAMMAN wrote:
Did you get it to work? If so that is all that matters :)
No. I did what was suggested and it still does not work



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okay try putting that wire to ground right from the gem module to ground just for testing 
(you also have to be stopped and foot on the brake)

Something is fishy it should work!

The way the 42 pin connector (or C115 as I know it just like the pic Jamman posted) ties into this is, all the wires from the drivetrain/transmission go through there and to the truck, on the 5.0 side the wire is missing because they never had 4wd so why add a NSS wire


Look at C115 connector, pin 33 is the 463 circuit red/white , on v6 4wd models its there, on 5.0 explorers it is not
This 463 red/wh wire can go to more places then just the Gem so I would not cut it, but splice into it

Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 07:11 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
okay try putting that wire to ground right from the gem module to ground just for testing 
(you also have to be stopped and foot on the brake)

Something is fishy it should work!

The way the 42 pin connector (or C115 as I know it just like the pic Jamman posted) ties into this is all the wires from the drivetrain/transmission go through there and to the truck, on the 5.0 side the wire is missing because they never had 4wd so why add a NSS wire


Look at C115 connector, pin 33 is the 463 circuit red/white , on v6 4wd models its there, on 5.0 explorers it is not
This 463 red/wh wire can go to more places then just the Gem so I would not cut it, but splice into it

Basically what was done is a wire was run from the transmission range sensor to the GEM.

Is the wire supposed to be integrated into that 42 pin connector somehow? Or is it just supposed to go straight from the GEM to the range sensor?

Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 06:25 pm by ILivermore



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This is the neutral safety feed, it can go to a few different places on the truck side of things like the 4x4 shift control module, the clutch switch bypass and the cruise control

I think you did good by going straight from the DTRS to the Gem, not sure why you are still not getting a low range shift...maybe your motor is fubar now? Maybe we blew a fuse?

For testing you can try running it straight to a good ground near the gem...it looks like all the DTRS does is ground the wire when in N

Here is what I would do:
Run wire from DTRS to the 42 pin connector on the 5.0 side
You should find pin 33 blank on the 5.0 side
Make sure the 463 red wh wire is there on the truck side (pin 33) 
Check continuity between the 42 pin connector (pin 33) to the GEM and make sure its the connected
Hook it up
That SHOULD allow the low range shift, at least it is for Brett.

Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 06:34 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
This is the neutral safety feed, it can go to a few different places on the truck side of things like the 4x4 shift control module, the clutch switch bypass and the cruise control

I think you did good by going straight from the DTRS to the Gem, not sure why you are still not getting a low range shift...maybe your motor is fubar now? Maybe we blew a fuse?

For testing you can try running it straight to a good ground near the gem...it looks like all the DTRS does is ground the wire when in N

Here is what I would do:
Run wire from DTRS to the 42 pin connector on the 5.0 side
You should find pin 33 blank on the 5.0 side
Make sure the 463 red wh wire is there on the truck side (pin 33) 
Check continuity between the 42 pin connector (pin 33) to the GEM and make sure its the connected
Hook it up
That SHOULD allow the low range shift, at least it is for Brett.

Maybe his works because it's an explorer? And mines a Ranger?



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That is a good question
My first answer is no it should not matter, also Brett is VERY good at these things and I told him your truck is ranger


lets check ..........Okay but the 42 pin connector does not change on these trucks, meaning they are pretty much universal the circuits stay on the same pins
Your truck was 2000 3.0L 4x4 automatic, it should have this wire


Do you have a red/white wire on pin 33 of your 42 pin connector under the hood?

Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 07:00 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
That is a good question
My first answer is no it should not matter, also Brett is VERY good at these things and I told him your truck is ranger


lets check ..........Okay but the 42 pin connector does not change on these trucks, meaning they are pretty much universal the circuits stay on the same pins
Your truck was 2000 3.0L 4x4 automatic, it should have this wire


Do you have a red/white wire on pin 33 of your 42 pin connector under the hood?

I believe so



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tie into it there AND make sure you have continuity from that wire to your Gem
I am not sure why but Brett said to make sure your Ranger has continuity between the C115 pin 33 and GEM at pin 22 red/wh circuit 463
I am SURE he has his reasons
By adding this wire on the 5.0 side you are completing the circuit to the DTRS and the truck should again think it is a V6, automatic 4x4
It should fix the low shift

Hang in there I battled the ESOF in my 97 F350 for about two weeks almost daily  before I finally fixed it, was a broken wire........

Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 07:25 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
tie into it there AND make sure you have continuity from that wire to your Gem
I am not sure why but Brett said to make sure your Ranger has continuity between the C115 pin 33 and GEM at pin 22 red/wh circuit 463
I am SURE he has his reasons
By adding this wire on the 5.0 side you are complete the circuit to the DTRS and the truck should again think it is a V6, automatic 4x4
It should fix the low shift

Hang in there I battled the ESOF in my 97 F350 for about two weeks almost daily  before I finally fixed it, was a broken wire........

I will. I really hope he is right..



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ILivermore wrote:
410customs wrote:

tie into it there AND make sure you have continuity from that wire to your Gem
I am not sure why but Brett said to make sure your Ranger has continuity between the C115 pin 33 and GEM at pin 22 red/wh circuit 463
I am SURE he has his reasons
By adding this wire on the 5.0 side you are complete the circuit to the DTRS and the truck should again think it is a V6, automatic 4x4
It should fix the low shift

Hang in there I battled the ESOF in my 97 F350 for about two weeks almost daily  before I finally fixed it, was a broken wire........

I will. I really hope he is right..

Otherwise its either getting a cobbled together manual case or it's getting sold..



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You cant sell that thing now! No way! Not with all those nice parts. Welcome to the wonderful world of conversions
Never give up!!



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410customs wrote:
You cant sell that thing now! No way! Not with all those nice parts. Welcome to the wonderful world of conversions
Never give up!!

I'm gonna try what you suggested instead of running the wire straight to the GEM. We will see what happens



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410customs wrote:
You cant sell that thing now! No way! Not with all those nice parts. Welcome to the wonderful world of conversions
Never give up!!

Just checked, I do have a red/white wire on the ranger side of the 42-pin harness, pin 33. The explorer side does not have a wire in pin 33



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add the wire from trans to pin 33, then make sure its connected to your Gem. Check your fuses and lets see if the Low shift is fixed!
Might not hurt to see the signal from the DTRS, meaning check that the new wire gets grounded when you switch the trans into N
fingers crossed

Last edited on Wed Dec 5th, 2018 12:24 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
add the wire from trans to pin 33, then make sure its connected to your Gem. Check your fuses and lets see if the Low shift is fixed!
Might not hurt to see the signal from the DTRS, meaning check that the new wire gets grounded when you switch the trans into N
fingers crossed

It should already be connected to the GEM, should it not?



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ILivermore wrote:
410customs wrote:

add the wire from trans to pin 33, then make sure its connected to your Gem. Check your fuses and lets see if the Low shift is fixed!
Might not hurt to see the signal from the DTRS, meaning check that the new wire gets grounded when you switch the trans into N
fingers crossed

It should already be connected to the GEM, should it not?

I guess i'm just confused as to how running this wire to that connector will fix it if running it straight to the GEM didn't. Does that red/white wire go somewhere else?



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410customs wrote:
add the wire from trans to pin 33, then make sure its connected to your Gem. Check your fuses and lets see if the Low shift is fixed!
Might not hurt to see the signal from the DTRS, meaning check that the new wire gets grounded when you switch the trans into N
fingers crossed

Update: running that wire to the explorer side of that harness to the DTRS did not fix the problem..



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Dang!!



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410customs wrote:
Dang!!
I'm fed up with it. Going to put a manual case in it. How do I get the lights to work on the dash?



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I would suggest trying a different shift motor now since you said it got hot, I understand your fed up with it. 

I would like to find a testing procedure for these Ranger ESOF systems instead of always trying to rebuild/adjust and swap motors....but I am not familiar.
You can check at the motor harness and see voltage changes on the signal wires when the dash switch is changed. If you see a voltage change for the low shift then that would tell us your NSS and BOO circuits are hooked up correctly and the problem is the shift motor
I wish they were more like the superduties and OBS Ford trucks, those motors simply use one relay to turn one direction and another relay to turn the other...simple ESOF the Ranger system with the controller and GEM is a PITA. Even with that said 99.9% of the time the problem is the shift motor. 

All of the trucks I have converted to 4x have been manual case because I almost refuse to give up 5 gallons of fuel in an explorer just to have a 4x4 switch on the dash (Explorers need smaller fuel tank to clear electronic shift motor)


I don't blame you for going manual case especially for $175?? That's junk yard price!! Very good price (I love manual 4406 very much, they are awesome)
but if you have the means, try a different 1354 motor.......It SHOULD be working now.....

Last edited on Wed Dec 5th, 2018 02:38 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
I would suggest trying a different shift motor now since you said it got hot, I understand your fed up with it. 

I would like to find a testing procedure for these Ranger ESOF systems instead of always trying to rebuild/adjust and swap motors....but I am not familiar.
I wish they were more like the superduties and OBS Ford trucks, those motors simply use one relay to turn one direction and another relay to turn the other...simple ESOF the Ranger system with the controller and GEM is a PITA. Even with that said 99.9% of the time the problem is the shift motor. 

All of the trucks I have converted to 4x have been manual case because I almost refuse to give up 5 gallons of fuel in an explorer just to have a 4x4 switch on the dash (Explorers need smaller fuel tank to clear electronic shift motor)


I don't blame you for going manual case especially for $175?? That's junk yard price!! Very good price (I love manual 4406 very much, they are awesome)
but if you have the means, try a different 1354 motor.......It SHOULD be working now.....

So you don't know how to wire up the 4WD lights?



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Yes its too easy, I thought the info was in the link I posted earlier to my explorer 4x4 conversion 

There are two wires at the gem one for low range one for high range, these are the feeds to the dash lights

Cut them so they are no longer hooked to gem and wire them directly to the hi low switch on your new t case

The new t case comes with a simple switch and two wires
The switch sends a ground down one wire for high range
and again down the other for low range These go directly to the instrument cluster
The reason you cut them so the Gem can no longer control the lights is so you don't get flashing hi and low range lights from your stupid ESOF system...

I run the two wires up through the floor next to the new shifter, under the carpet, behind the dash right to the gem

Last edited on Wed Dec 5th, 2018 02:39 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
Yes its too easy, I thought the info was in the link I posted earlier to my explorer 4x4 conversion 

There are two wires at the gem one for low range one for high range, these are the feeds to the dash lights

Cut them so they are no longer hooked to gem and wire them directly to the hi low switch on your new t case

The new t case comes with a simple switch and two wires
The switch sends a ground down one wire for high range
and again down the other for low range These go directly to the instrument cluster
The reason you cut them so the Gem can no longer control the lights is so you don't get flashing hi and low range lights from your stupid ESOF system...

I run the two wires up through the floor next to the new shifter, under the carpet, behind the dash right to the gem

I'm assuming I needed the explorer shifter.. the F-150 one just showed up and it looks way wrong



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410customs wrote:
Yes its too easy, I thought the info was in the link I posted earlier to my explorer 4x4 conversion 

There are two wires at the gem one for low range one for high range, these are the feeds to the dash lights

Cut them so they are no longer hooked to gem and wire them directly to the hi low switch on your new t case

The new t case comes with a simple switch and two wires
The switch sends a ground down one wire for high range
and again down the other for low range These go directly to the instrument cluster
The reason you cut them so the Gem can no longer control the lights is so you don't get flashing hi and low range lights from your stupid ESOF system...

I run the two wires up through the floor next to the new shifter, under the carpet, behind the dash right to the gem

Also the case I got is from a 1997 F-150 it appears. Is that going to cause any issues?



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NO as long as your 97 F150 uses a AODE or 4r70w your good to go, just ignore the speed sensor

The explorer/ranger 1354 t case shifter will not even come close to working
Lets see the shifter you were sent??
Let me see if I can get a pic of the shifter you need



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Here is the shifter arm itself and the shifter linkage rod direct from Ford



Diagram of stock parts:




The hardest part to source is the shifter mechanism itself:


In my old 96 Explorer 5.0L 3" body lift, 2" torsion twist, 33" tires, geo tracker shifter boot








Far away from console

Last edited on Wed Dec 5th, 2018 08:06 pm by 410customs



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410customs wrote:
Here is the shifter arm itself and the shifter linkage rod direct from Ford



Diagram of stock parts:




The hardest part to source is the shifter mechanism itself:


In my old 96 Explorer 5.0L 3" body lift, 2" torsion twist, 33" tires, geo tracker shifter boot








Far away from console

4406M is installed. Ended up bringing the shifter up through the center console so it doesn't hit my leg. Now trying to source a connector for the 4WD position sensor



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I also did not have the connector so I just made one used two small pins to plug into sensor then filled the cavity with silicoln



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410customs wrote:
I also did not have the connector so I just made one used two small pins to plug into sensor then filled the cavity with silicoln
Is there any trick to shifting these cases? I've never owned a vehicle with a floor shift 4x4. I know you have to be in neutral to go into 4low, but it seems like no matter what I do I get some sort of grind



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I seem to remember mine grinding into low range from time to time 

Pretty sure the brown wire needs to be hooked up to fix that grinding I never hooked mine up instead I turn truck off shift into low then start up again and no grinding 

Read this see if it helps

I found this:
What Ford has to say:
The 4406 manual shift and electronics shift transfer cases are three-piece magnesium design. Under normal driving conditions the unit is in 2H, but when desired, the operator may shift into 4H or 4L. The operator may shift from 2H to 4H or from 4H to 2H at any speed up to 88km'h (55mph). The vehicle must be less than 5km/h (3mph), the brake applied, and the transmission in NEUTRAL to shift into 4L. The unit is lubricated by a positive displacement fluid pump that channels fluid flow through holes in the rear output shaft.

The electromagnetic clutch is located inside the case. The clutch is used to spin up the front driveshaft when shifting from 2H to 4H at speed. When the shift lever is moved, it activates the 4WD indicator switch, 4WD electric clutch relay, and the clutch itself. When the TC front and rear output shafts are synchronized, the spring loaded lockup collar mechanically engages the mainshaft hub to the drive sprocket. Finally, the front axle collar is engaged and the clutch is deactivated.

The transfer case is set up as such:
a) 2H -> 4H -> TC Neutral -> 4L
b) 4L -> TC Neutral -> 4H -> 2H

Shift Knob:
1). When in 2H the floor shifter is pointed towards the dash. The TC lever is pointed all the way back towards the rear of the vehicle.

2). When in 4H the floor shifter is in the middle (pointing towards the sky) The TC lever is also pointed up.

3). When in 4L the floor shifter is towards the drivers seat. The TC lever is pointed towards the front of the vehicle.

Switching Ranges:
2H - 4H: Vehicle can be moving but must be traveling less than 45-60mph. While putting along, under light to moderate throttle shift from 2H - 4H.

4H - 4L: Stop the vehicle. You CANNOT Shift on the FLY from 4H to 4L. Place transmission in Neutral (maybe even Park if you're having grindage). Wait 10 seconds. Place TC in 4L. Place transmission in gear. You're now good to go.

4L - 4H: Stop the vehicle. You CANNOT Shift on the FLY from 4L to 4H. Place transmission in Neutral (maybe even Park if you're having grindage). Wait 10 seconds. Place TC in Neutral. Wait 10 seconds. Pace TC in 4H. Place transmission in gear. You're now good to go.

4H - 2H: Vehicle can be moving but must be traveling less than 45-60mph. While putting along, under light to moderate throttle shift from 4H - 2L.

2H - 4L: Bad.. Don't do this..

4L - 2H: Bad.. Don't do this..

Towing:
If the transfer case is in the Neutral position then both front and rear driveshaft are unlocked and the vehicle can be towed with all 4 wheels on the ground.

Fluid:
The BW 4406 uses MercronV? apx 2 quarts..

Shift Linkage:
How does the shift linkage "feel". When I pull back from 2H to 4H, there's a distinct click. If I continue to pull back I would hit a shift block/stop keeping me from accidentally placing the TC into TC Neutral. To go into 4L from 4H I have to move the shift linkage towards my leg, pull down, pull towards console, and pull down into 4L passing straight through TC Neutral. Conversely If I am in 4L I pull to my leg and place in TC Neutral, pull towards console and place in 4H. From 4H I push towards dash into 2H.

Sloppy Feeling:
When I spin the input shaft (coming from the transmission) with the TC in 2H, there is minimal free play between the input shaft and rear driveshaft. Is this normal?

When I spin the input shaft (coming from the transmission) with the TC in 4H, there is a fair bit free play between the input shaft and rear driveshaft and a lot of in the front driveshaft. Is this normal?

When I spin the input shaft (coming from the transmission) with the TC in 4L, there is a small amount free play between the input shaft and rear driveshaft and a small amount in the front driveshaft. Is this normal?

Ratio:
2H 1:1
4H 1:1
4L 2.75:1 (approximately)

Last edited on Wed Dec 12th, 2018 10:37 am by 410customs



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 Posted: Wed Dec 12th, 2018 11:18 am
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410customs wrote:
I seem to remember mine grinding into low range from time to time 

Pretty sure the brown wire needs to be hooked up to fix that grinding I never hooked mine up instead I turn truck off shift into low then start up again and no grinding 

Read this see if it helps

I found this:
What Ford has to say:
The 4406 manual shift and electronics shift transfer cases are three-piece magnesium design. Under normal driving conditions the unit is in 2H, but when desired, the operator may shift into 4H or 4L. The operator may shift from 2H to 4H or from 4H to 2H at any speed up to 88km'h (55mph). The vehicle must be less than 5km/h (3mph), the brake applied, and the transmission in NEUTRAL to shift into 4L. The unit is lubricated by a positive displacement fluid pump that channels fluid flow through holes in the rear output shaft.

The electromagnetic clutch is located inside the case. The clutch is used to spin up the front driveshaft when shifting from 2H to 4H at speed. When the shift lever is moved, it activates the 4WD indicator switch, 4WD electric clutch relay, and the clutch itself. When the TC front and rear output shafts are synchronized, the spring loaded lockup collar mechanically engages the mainshaft hub to the drive sprocket. Finally, the front axle collar is engaged and the clutch is deactivated.

The transfer case is set up as such:
a) 2H -> 4H -> TC Neutral -> 4L
b) 4L -> TC Neutral -> 4H -> 2H

Shift Knob:
1). When in 2H the floor shifter is pointed towards the dash. The TC lever is pointed all the way back towards the rear of the vehicle.

2). When in 4H the floor shifter is in the middle (pointing towards the sky) The TC lever is also pointed up.

3). When in 4L the floor shifter is towards the drivers seat. The TC lever is pointed towards the front of the vehicle.

Switching Ranges:
2H - 4H: Vehicle can be moving but must be traveling less than 45-60mph. While putting along, under light to moderate throttle shift from 2H - 4H.

4H - 4L: Stop the vehicle. You CANNOT Shift on the FLY from 4H to 4L. Place transmission in Neutral (maybe even Park if you're having grindage). Wait 10 seconds. Place TC in 4L. Place transmission in gear. You're now good to go.

4L - 4H: Stop the vehicle. You CANNOT Shift on the FLY from 4L to 4H. Place transmission in Neutral (maybe even Park if you're having grindage). Wait 10 seconds. Place TC in Neutral. Wait 10 seconds. Pace TC in 4H. Place transmission in gear. You're now good to go.

4H - 2H: Vehicle can be moving but must be traveling less than 45-60mph. While putting along, under light to moderate throttle shift from 4H - 2L.

2H - 4L: Bad.. Don't do this..

4L - 2H: Bad.. Don't do this..

Towing:
If the transfer case is in the Neutral position then both front and rear driveshaft are unlocked and the vehicle can be towed with all 4 wheels on the ground.

Fluid:
The BW 4406 uses MercronV? apx 2 quarts..

Shift Linkage:
How does the shift linkage "feel". When I pull back from 2H to 4H, there's a distinct click. If I continue to pull back I would hit a shift block/stop keeping me from accidentally placing the TC into TC Neutral. To go into 4L from 4H I have to move the shift linkage towards my leg, pull down, pull towards console, and pull down into 4L passing straight through TC Neutral. Conversely If I am in 4L I pull to my leg and place in TC Neutral, pull towards console and place in 4H. From 4H I push towards dash into 2H.

Sloppy Feeling:
When I spin the input shaft (coming from the transmission) with the TC in 2H, there is minimal free play between the input shaft and rear driveshaft. Is this normal?

When I spin the input shaft (coming from the transmission) with the TC in 4H, there is a fair bit free play between the input shaft and rear driveshaft and a lot of in the front driveshaft. Is this normal?

When I spin the input shaft (coming from the transmission) with the TC in 4L, there is a small amount free play between the input shaft and rear driveshaft and a small amount in the front driveshaft. Is this normal?

Ratio:
2H 1:1
4H 1:1
4L 2.75:1 (approximately)

Maybe it's because I'm not passing straight through neutral when going into 4low



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 Posted: Sun Dec 16th, 2018 10:35 am
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410customs

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Maybe!! It could be because we do not hookup the brown wire in the Ranger also...
Let us know what you find out, I am sure many many Ranger people going down this same road will come across this thread.



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