TheArcticWolf1911
Gunslinger
Joined: Sat Nov 4th, 2017
Posts: 426
Name: Cameron ... Occupation: Process Technician ... Interests: Firearms & Ammunition, Ford Rangers, electronics ...
Reputation Points: 426
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I'm going to use a braided cable with loops at each end, coated in plastic, like this one.
https://mobileimages.lowes.com/product/converted/071649/071649036941.jpg (image not embedded due to resolution)
This is how I'm going to lock it up, requiring only the lock itself. The shackle needs to have 2 1/2 inches of space MINIMUM when closed so it fits in this manner.
One end of the cable will be secured to one of the seat bolts, using large washers as necessary. The other end will slip over the lock's shackle and then locked over the box as shown. This not only allows it to be very cheap, as no extra hardware is needed, but it also allows the ammo can to be left unmodified. This is not only a bonus for structural integrity, but it also allows the can to be removed and re-purposed if desired.
The trick here is that the cable needs to be long enough so that you can remove the can from behind the seats to easily access the lock. Although this method probably isn't going to be the most resilient to attacks, it will prevent a common thief (who likely will have no tools with him or her) from a simple 'snatch and grab'.
One thing to point out is that with the can locked in this way, it won't seal as tightly as it would normally. However, the lid is plenty secure with no play, and given it will be inside a truck where it is reasonably climate controlled, I don't see this as a serious downside.
That's how I'm chosing to do it, and I have another way in mind (which is how I originally planned on doing this), so if anyone wants to hear the more 'brute force' method with extra hardware and work involved, I'd be more than happy to share.
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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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