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2002 Edge - Manual - 2WD Snow Truck...
 Moderated by: MaDMaXX, Mike69, NoPower Page:    1  2  3  4  5  6  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 04:30 am
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MaDMaXX

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I thought i'd start this so i have a little record of what i've done and maybe even help someone along the way. 

I have owned this truck for 3 weeks now, i bought it as an extra vehicle, for occasional hauling and i thought it would be good to have when we get snow.
Little did i know that a 2WD truck is supposed to be crap in the snow, but it can't be worse than a 350Z with summer tyres....

I picked the truck up with full service history & one owner, at which point i think it was just stood for a year before heading to auction where a dealer picked it up with 146k miles.

I've come to find it's missing a couple of things, some stuff needs a little TLC and it stinks to high heaven of smoke and a little of whatever is trying to cover it up.
  
This was after i started trying to get the dealer gunk off the tyres and everything else they slap it on.  Still some left to do before i dress it properly.

  
Dealer: "Yeah, tyres have about 70% left"  Yeah, right.



What the hell, this thing's huge, no wonder i can't hear it running!

  
I was trying to work out what happened here.

 
It was painfully obvious when i opened the airbox and discovered a monumental nest of some description, composed mainly of fibrous material... ---------- Definitely been sitting, this was an inch or two deep, same deal between the V, had to get the vac out.

 
I had some evidence of power steering fluid leak, and having finally seen a small patch under the truck when i moved it, i had a look and discovered this inline filter for the power steering.

 
The filter was rubbing against the bottom corner of the PS pump, leaking from here?

 
 
Set about draining the system and replacing the filter.

 
Whilst bleeding the system, i noticed this top T piece was leaking coolant onto the engine :(

 
The plastic T pieces do not come apart.... well, they do, just not in a way they can go back together again, the barbs are still inside the pipes :(

  
Two new replacement standard T's from NAPA.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 04:36 am
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MaDMaXX

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I'll be trying to get hold of some spare wheels and fitting snow tyres, undecided between studded or studless right now.
It's already going to be expensive as i need new tyres for general driving, thinking Bridgestone Revo 2.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 04:37 am
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MaDMaXX

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Having found that i still had a PS leak after putting the new filter in, i found the reservoir on the pump itself had been cut open by the old filter's ribs :(  New pump just for a reservoir leak :(
Ended up having to buy this as normal bleeding wouldn't work.


Had to buy this from Amazon for the large neck on the Ford pump.



Drilled a 1/4 inch hole through it and fitted a regular 1/4 inch brass air connector into it.


----------
Did i mention to make sure the puller you rent from Autozone isn't damaged and spins freely.
New PS pulley was required.


----------
The radiator was maybe 3 inches down on coolant, a combination of the T piece leak, and the factory overflow hose was not tight at either the rad neck or the tank, Jubilee clips on the hose stopped that problem.



Although i think the rad cap is now leaking under pressure too :(
----------
Just ordered a Gates replacement rad cap, marginally cheaper than the Motorcraft part, but probably made in the same place.




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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 04:40 am
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MaDMaXX

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I hate ATF.
Soooo much, there is nothing about it that i like, it doesn't even act like normal oil, it doesn't wipe up, clean off or move like normal oil, it's evil.
I've never made such a mess since i put new oil in a bike without putting the sump plug back in :(


At least all the bolts came out without a problem (obvious exception being the drain bolt per the picture above)




There is certainly some red to the oil, but it's pretty grungy.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 04:41 am
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MaDMaXX

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I fitted the new Gates radiator cap, i'll have to check it's fixed the leaking i saw down the back of the rad.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 04:42 am
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MaDMaXX

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Thought i'd test fit and offer up that tubing to the intake, see what work i'd need to do.
Turned out it needed a quick flat bending in the top and bottom, and it wedged into the airbox hole quite snugly, just enough length to let it suck the cooler air from the front again.



It was held fairly securely, but just to be sure, i added a little hot glue along the top on both sides.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 04:43 am
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MaDMaXX

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Finally, new plugs arrived, slight issue, i need a gap of .044 thou and these came from the factory set to .033 - i have never had to expand the gap from such a tight measurement before and it's taking me ages sing needle nose pliers, trying to make sure i don't damage them.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 04:44 am
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MaDMaXX

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Still getting a little air out of the PS every time i drive it; the fluid level goes down - vacuum will sit there without dropping for 30 minutes. Gonna put some MerconV in to top it up this time, it's only the smallest amount.

I also picked up some winter wheels and studded tyres finally! Not a bad deal i think, got some clean up to do on the wheels though, not sure what it seems to be on the surface of the wheel, it's like glued on tyre fitting paste or something.







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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 04:45 am
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MaDMaXX

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$40 from Coastal Farm & Ranch.



Half an hour with a tape measure and a hacksaw, it'll look better once it jiggles perfectly into place.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 04:45 am
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MaDMaXX

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Managed to get the new running boards fitted.


Look pretty good i think.


Finally found an antenna i'm happy with, a stubby wouldn't look to scale in my opinion.


Finally used my new tester, i think i might need to flush the brake fluid....



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 05:48 am
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MaDMaXX

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Finally got a 'toolkit' and dropped the rear tyre - looks like it's been up there since the tyres were bought, still got the furry bits.



Dirt much?




The sidewall isn't he great condition where it was resting in the holder, but the sidewalls on the other tyres aren't much better.




Cleaned up alright.

Last edited on Sun Oct 29th, 2017 05:54 am by MaDMaXX



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 05:59 am
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MaDMaXX

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Pulled the shifter to fix stiff neutral and fit the rebuild kit.



Point of note, the bolt never unscrews completely, you tap out once the nut goes tight when screwing it on the other side, do not keep tightening.


I had some new parts in there already it seems, but one was worn and i had too many overall, causing the left/right of the shifter to be tight and not return to the middle correctly.




Good chance to clean the tunnel as well as the shifter boot and console.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 06:04 am
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MaDMaXX

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Stupid wheel design, holds water between the front and back.



After getting the new tyres and cleaning them, i sprayed FluidFilm in the crevice to at least help prevent it rusting.


Looks pretty good with the new tyres.


Last edited on Sun Oct 29th, 2017 06:28 am by MaDMaXX



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 06:07 am
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MaDMaXX

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Checked i had the 3rd wire in my 3rd brake light.



Ordered a Dorman unit with the cargo lights.


Looks a lot better than the worn old unit.


Even more so with LED's fitted.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 06:14 am
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MaDMaXX

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Based on the tester results, i thought i should really get the brakes bled.I didn't see the fill level instructions until i turned this cap over to clean it.



This is cleaner than some of the fluid i bled through.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 06:16 am
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MaDMaXX

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Not sure if this slight damage matters or not.


This looks a little more serious.



Not sure how immediate the problem is.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 06:20 am
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MaDMaXX

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I got new NGK plug leads, a lot of messing around to try and get as close to perfect routing as possible, it's not exactly quality routing design by Ford :(








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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 06:22 am
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MaDMaXX

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Just wanted to throw this in here, i thought it was funny finding out what that rattle behind the dash was caused by.




Last edited on Sun Oct 29th, 2017 06:26 am by MaDMaXX



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 06:32 am
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MaDMaXX

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Remember the tree bits from when i got the truck?  I had to pull my blower motor as i it was making a 'leaf caught in fan' noise.



Check out the mess further inside! and how hard it was to remove.

Last edited on Sun Oct 29th, 2017 06:33 am by MaDMaXX



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 06:35 am
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MaDMaXX

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New switch arrived, upcoming 'project'....



Just picturing the damage to my seats :(



I have a few options, but most of them are really expensive :(



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 07:15 am
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MaDMaXX

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I had some dash lights out, so after getting some blue LED's (test) and that switch in the last post, i was ready to pull the dash for those two projects.
There may or may not have been a spill on the dash gauge section by the previous owner.



I had to clean out the vents on both sides where what was probably coffee with milk, was emptied on the dashboard.



The knee panel was all rusted up from the spill and general vehicle interior dry rust, sorry, no before picture, just imagine no clean metal.This is after being treated with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80, it's a rust converter that can apply to non rusted surfaces as well as rusted, turns the rust black and inert.



Inside the cluster lens, it was fairly dirty too.



The gauge faces had survived the onslaught, but were filthy after 15 years.



They cleaned up nicely with 303 Protectant though.






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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 07:19 am
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MaDMaXX

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Here's the back of the cluster for reference, the larger black twist knobs are for the main dash lights.



All cleaned up and reassembled ready for installation. 



Mostly back together.



All blue LED's didn't quite work, everything was nice and blue, but the main numbers were too dim as they had to pass through the gauges factory green filter.The most natural look i could get (whilst keeping some blue) was cool white in the main display and a single blue at each end to give it the accent.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 07:24 am
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MaDMaXX

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Not much detail here, my Brother helped me wire up the new switch you can see (replaced the cig lighter)



And turned on...



The whole dash in dark.




I couldn't do the lights in the HVAC, this year Ranger has mini type 74 wedge bulbs instead of the 194 T10 type that the rest of the dash has.
As for the button i put put in place of the cigarette lighter?  That now controls the AC, i did this in the Mustang i used to have too, as i wanted to use the screen vents without AC.In the Ranger, it's even worse, 5 of the vent settings automatically enable AC - totally unnecessary and unwanted.
Very simple to do, just find the purple wire from the back of the vent control in the HVAC panel, break it and wire in a switch, voila, any vent setting you want, and no AC unless you hit the button.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 07:30 am
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MaDMaXX

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Had to pick up a new floor jack for another project, my previous jack was a low rise, low profile setup, no good for truck height vehicles.
23 inch lift height, 3 year warranty, twice the price of the one i went in for, but seems like a very solid unit at a comparatively cheap price, after using it for several jobs, i really like it.



Lastly, the black lines you see here, are me scratching my nail on the column, trying to think what i can clean this with that won't sand the surface.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 11:37 am
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Looks like a lot of work! I have a cluster out of a Mountaineer that has blue overlays if you want to get back into that area ever again. Easy to take that cover off the column to clean it too when the cluster is out :)
Is this your daily driver now?



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