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Lift amount suggestions       #: 1776
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 Posted: Sat Sep 28th, 2019 10:53 pm
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VelociRanger
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Some of y'all may know that a while back I was torn between lifting and lowering my truck, and since then I've decided on lifting it because I can get more use out of it on the property, work related stuff, emergency weather and things like that. My original plan and my current plan is to basically just level the front with MaxTrac 2” lift coils, Rancho shocks for the front that are designed for 2” of lift, stock rear leaf shackles and Rancho RS9000 shocks with the adjustability feature to help with ride quality and not sacrifice towing ability (may also get an add a leaf, they're cheap and useful), rebuilding the front suspension (I actually can't find a complete kit thats not from some off brand company so suggestions are welcome there as well), simple off-road front and rear bumpers, simple cheap winch, an 8.8 with 4:10s and a LS and disc brakes, with 31” tires. Im torn between that and getting the MaxTrac 4/3 kit and still doing pretty much all of the above stuff, with 33s. The main thing that keeps me from doing that is the extra expense to regear the rear axle to 4:56 gears and the extra tire expenses because 33's are a bit more expensive than 31's. I won't be doing any off-roading, just a daily driver that is capable of handling just about anything I can throw at it. Any help or suggestion is appreciated, thanks.



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sun Sep 29th, 2019 12:38 am
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Stick with the original plan - However, keep in mind what goes wrong is you end up doing the 31" tire setup, FIND YOURSELF finding that even with 2WD and the right tires and ground clearance you CAN do a lot and then that's when the bug takes it's bite and the infection starts.

THEN its the next post about what do I have to do to get 33"s on it which I ran a 2" lift leveling kit and 1.75" lift in the rear from a HD spring pack leaf kit I got into and although I did get away without it, a 2" body lift and 33's all day were easy on my 93'.. Just saying



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 Posted: Sun Sep 29th, 2019 04:16 pm
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VelociRanger
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That's also part of the reason why I'm undecided yet. BUT, if I do my original plan then I'll have an excellent base for just in case I want to go bigger.....or just do it all at once........ :hair



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sun Sep 29th, 2019 05:33 pm
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No torsen bars? Cant remember if you are 2wd or 4wd. 

This is my 07 4x4 sport with 30.5s at factory height. Automatic with 3:73s with plenty of pep. 

30.5s looked kinda punny to me and 33s didnt look that much bigger so I'm hoping to go to 35s with a lift. 

I started with the idea of 4:56 gearing and 33s but yeah... got the bug. 🤒



Last edited on Sun Sep 29th, 2019 05:37 pm by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Sun Sep 29th, 2019 05:47 pm
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Eddie Money wrote:




Least you have a nice Blue color... [sigh] lol



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"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

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"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Sun Sep 29th, 2019 05:57 pm
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VelociRanger
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Eddie Money wrote:
No torsen bars? Cant remember if you are 2wd or 4wd. 

This is my 07 4x4 sport with 30.5s at factory height. Automatic with 3:73s with plenty of pep. 

30.5s looked kinda punny to me and 33s didnt look that much bigger so I'm hoping to go to 35s with a lift. 

I started with the idea of 4:56 gearing and 33s but yeah... got the bug. 🤒




Mine is 2wd with the coil spring suspension. I have 235/75r15s currently and they almost fill the wheel well but I suspect the front end has been lowered; it sits much lower than similar year rangers around here that are single cab short bed 2wd with the coil springs.



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sun Sep 29th, 2019 07:39 pm
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I'd start looking at prerunner builds like ranger dangers and figure out how far you wanna go

Last edited on Sun Sep 29th, 2019 07:40 pm by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Sun Sep 29th, 2019 07:44 pm
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VelociRanger
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It's not necessarily how far I WANT to go, but how far I SHOULD go. I like her build, but it seems too much for just a simple daily driver. Plus, I don't like/trust blocks so I won't be going any higher than the 4/3, should I decided that's what's best for the truck nor do I like body lifts.



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sun Sep 29th, 2019 10:07 pm
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VelociRanger wrote:
It's not necessarily how far I WANT to go, but how far I SHOULD go. I like her build, but it seems too much for just a simple daily driver. Plus, I don't like/trust blocks so I won't be going any higher than the 4/3, should I decided that's what's best for the truck nor do I like body lifts.
Should is more relevance of would or could... And if you're a gear-head of any sorts and or you just even spend a rather significant amount of time in a vehicle. A vehicle is just an extension of your personality. Just like finding a relationship in life, something physical attracts you to a genre; Cars, trucks, motorcycles, boats, airplanes, etc... The type further dictates where you go with it. In your case, an assumption is made you like trucks or did. Lowered or lifted? Practical and reliability over durable but extreme? and well, you can see how easily you can break this down. 

Personally, anything more than a 4" lift to me, in short sight is a waste of money and just shows who has the bigger ego and deeper pockets but that's just my opinion based upon my own experiences and practicality. When i see full size trucks and their 8" lift kits on shiny low profile tires & wheels, sorry but I laugh. No real use other than just being higher than everyone else which is why i relate it to EGO's or high horses.. whatever.

As for blocks, the manufacture does it and that's on production rated every day daily grinders.. Is there a better way? Sure but not the most versatile for production purposes or cost effective and still offer safety. Same can be said for body lifts. I'm not jumping my truck out of ditches or down small flights of stairs in parks nor did I do more than a 2.00" BL so I'm not worried about a failure rate based upon non-illustrated facts, (there are some people who will argue the same thing about Body lifts as if the argument was about wheel spacers). So the chances of me doing anything remotely testy of shearing the cab and bed off the frame are pretty non-existent. And if that's the only thing I'd ever have to worry about, I'll take my chances. I'm more likely to be robbed at gunpoint than shear ALL the cab bolts off the frame whether of my own doing or a careening drunk driver impact.

The 2' BL just makes a concerted and inexpensive way to make a little bit of travel room. Now full on Long travel for desert racing application and a body lift kit? Probably not an idea I'd chase too much but again, a 1" kit wouldn't exactly make my butt pucker anymore or any less driving the rig..

And that's my $ .02

Last edited on Sun Sep 29th, 2019 10:08 pm by Undrstm8ed



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Sun Sep 29th, 2019 10:16 pm
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VelociRanger
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I love trucks, both lowered and lifted. I've looked at people who have basically the same truck as mine that's lifted and lowered and loved them both. But, as far as what I do daily/occasionally I need a lifted truck. I know that I can't make it bulletproof without breaking the bank, but I've been in a couple situations where if I had just a little bit of lift and better tires, along with a couple of other things (bumper and winch) then the outcome would've been better. I'm thinking I'm gonna do the level and then maybe eventually down the road or if I could use more ground clearance, then I'll go a little higher.



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Tue Oct 1st, 2019 09:20 am
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ahhhhh lift

Okay so to me after dealing with this exact topic for many years. Lift is a form of function, meaning we only "Lift" a vehicle to fit larger tires.

Larger tires are the only way to increase ground clearance (between the differentials and the ground) and improve traction (larger tire = larger contact patch). Keeping the tires on the ground is how you keep moving forward.
So a suspension lift is done in order to increase the size of the tire we can stuff at full compression and if done properly the suspension travel is increased so we can keep that tire on the ground longer during droop.

So for a Ranger the magic number is about 4-5" of suspension lift. This allows the use of a 35" tire on most of these trucks
Suspension lift is the BEST way to stuff larger tires.

A body lift simply moves the body up higher off the frame at the cost of higher center of gravity, but the function is the same, to clear larger tires.

A leveling kit or spacer lift, simply changes the ride height the suspension is set at in order to clear larger tires, at the cost of droop travel.

A proper suspension lift will increase the amount of stuff and droop travel, often to the maximum possible which moving the axles further from the frame so you can fit larger tires.

I am a big fan of increased travel and clearancing body panels to fit the larger tires. fender flares, sawzall, fiberglass can help clear big tires. High clearance U joints, CV axles, extended control arms, radius arms, springs, etc all are good help at making more "usable" wheel travel.

I am not a fan of leveling kits or body lifts, although I will use both of these in order to fit the largest tire possible.

My 1988 Bronco II stuffs 35" tires with a 1/2" body DROP
and a 5" suspension "lift"
The suspension has been modified to allow as much travel as possible, extended radius arms, clearanced U joints, modified beams, custom steering, and soft springs allow me to have 14-15" of usable wheel travel at the hub, about 6" of down or "droop" and about 8-9" of up or "stuff" travel. I use fiberglass fenders to clear the 35" tires trimming sheet metal here and there to make it all work together.

So lift is a form of function, for me.

Last edited on Tue Oct 1st, 2019 09:20 am by 410customs



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 Posted: Wed Oct 2nd, 2019 12:21 am
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VelociRanger
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That's exactly why I was gonna lift it, but not 100% sure how high :fp I like the rangers on 35s though...the price of a set of 35s not so much :'( I just want to be lifted enough to get more usability out of the truck, while not going overboard with it. I'm okay with the 4/3 MaxTrac lift (I have a 2wd so let the lifted 2wd haters gather lol) but not any higher than that.



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Wed Oct 2nd, 2019 11:54 am
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Noticed my truck got thrown in here. So might as well chime my little 2 cents in!

I have 7" total in lift. 35x12.50r15. 15x12 with 2" spacers.

Currently I have the 7.5" with 4.10, chromoly axle shafts. Open diff.
Maxtrac 4" Spindle, leafs have blocks. 
I also have a 3" Body block/lift kit.
95 F250 rear shocks. Stock shocks in front.

Personally, either way, you're going to get bit by the bug. Customizing and lifting (ESPECIALLY LIFTING) vehicles. Is an addiction.

I like the first option. As you are daily driving/using it as a work truck.

Mine I use not only for daily, but I will go wheeling on the weekends and tear up the sand dunes here from time to time. 
Or in the odd chances I decide to do donuts on pavement in the rain (hence the chromoly axles. As I bent the stock ones. Hella bad)

Keep it reliable. I have the 2.3L 5 Speed. Muffler delete with cats still, but dump piped out the side. I drive with my foot in the floor. I get 7 MPGs. Sometimes 8-9 if I am easy on it. 

Keep it simple. As simple as you can. Buy a cheap barn find. Beat the crap out of that. 

Cannot wait to see what it looks like! I haven't posted many updated pics of the lil' truck. So here is one I took this past weekend out wheeling with my buddy.

Attachment: IMG_6626.jpeg (Downloaded 98 times)



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 Posted: Sat Oct 5th, 2019 12:24 am
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VelociRanger
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So I decided on going with the 4/3 MaxTrac with 33's. I might as well since it's not so high it's ridiculous and the spindle lift will give much more ground clearance. First step though: rebuilding the front suspension. It's kinda wore out, all the bushings are done for. Any good all in one kits that have upper/Lowe control arms with ball joints, tie rod ends things like that? Ive found a couple, but no name brands. Also, with 33's I need to regear. I used a gear ratio calculator and it says 4.49 so 4.56 what I want. Should I go 4.56 or 4.10? I don't want to wear out and over work the engine, but also don't want to be In 5th gear at 65 with 4000 rpms.



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sat Oct 5th, 2019 09:00 am
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I have 4.10 with my 35s in my 2.3L and it cruises at 3k rpms at 60 in 4th gear. 5th gear is borderline useless to me. I only use it unless I am wanting to be super slow and just cruise (My 3 hour drive to Daytona I used 5th for the first time in over a year). 

You can never go wrong with 4.10s!

Wish you best of luck!



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2000 Explorer 5.0L 2WD Eddie Bauer (Donor)
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 Posted: Sat Oct 5th, 2019 11:36 am
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Last edited on Sat Oct 5th, 2019 11:45 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Sat Oct 5th, 2019 12:13 pm
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One of the better calculators I've used and trust..

Grimm Jeeper Gear Calculator 

With some additional resources:

Manual Transmissions 

Automatic Transmissions



And rather than re-post an entire discussion [ https://ford-rangers.com/forum52/1006.html ], this was pretty good information here using the above calculator and resources while trying to decide what gears to use. For a sports car, 3000-3250 RPM while in 5th gear and doing 70-75MPH would be expected but MPG on something with 33"-35" tires would be.. ehhhhh less than stellar.

Current gearing of 3.73 right now:




Future gearing of 4.88 right now:




Keep in mind also, my 93' is loaded with a 4.0L OHV, with the manual trans not the zippy 2.5L/2.3L 9mm like variant.. TQ numbers despite only the 27hp lower HP numbers of the 2.3L in comparison to the 4.0L. The 2.3L is 87 ft. lbs less than my 4.0L, more than noticeable in either direction of scale by the butt-dyno in my opinion but the lower the RPM can be, the better the MPG should be while still gaining a performance advantage via gearing.

At least that's my perception of how its supposed to work. Another graph I had before shows you by colored sections where performance drops off to, where you get better MPG, and then where MPG kinda goes out the window some and its all about [performance] gains bruh!! lol

- Stock Tire [215/75/14] vs. Current tire [285/70/17] listed as oversized MT @ 34"], 3.73 gearing | Standard Transmission |




https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/ 


Just what you wanted huh? More controversy and debate to add to your informed decision making.. !! I like making a topic interesting from other perspectives and thoughts. lol

.



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Sun Oct 6th, 2019 12:39 am
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VelociRanger
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Thank you both! The gear ratio Calculator I used was basic I guess. With the link that was provided I was able to see the exact rpms I would be at and 4.10s are slightly under the gearing that is with the stock tire size, and 4.56s are about 500-1000 above the original, so to help the truck move those meats I'm gonna go with 4.56 because 1000 doesn't seem like too much. I found some good MT tires, a decent rebuild kit, now I've gotta search for shocks. I want the RS9000 ones, so would I be able to use stock f150 shocks for the rear?



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sun Oct 6th, 2019 01:09 am
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De nada Amigo..



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"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Fri Oct 25th, 2019 06:17 pm
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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So after doing a fair amount of research of all of the parts that I want and will need, I've again come to a snag; a company called “Wulf Suspensions” now offers a 4/2 lift kit for the 2wd trucks. They actually offer 2 versions of the same kit, one with add a leaf for the rear and one with a shackle for the rear. Which should I do? The main question is which brand to use? MaxTrac seems to be what's everyone uses and trusts, but the Wulf kit looks almost exactly the same. The spindles look slightly beefier, actually. Pictured is both of the Wulf kits and the MaxTrac kit.














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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Fri Oct 25th, 2019 07:47 pm
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410customs

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I would rather have shackles then an add a leaf.
But the Wulf spindles look more beef and they have a cool name!
Rangers can often benefit from refreshed/new rear leafs if yours are worn, for some reason ranger leafs are just weak. I have seen many many broken main leafs on those trucks. Not sure if its people over load them or they are just getting older...
Add a leaf is just a band aid
Shackles can help improve the ride
It would take a 4" longer shackle to gain 2" of rear lift

I like the Wulf spindles 
Can get shackles for Ranger anywhere
Does anyone make a 2" coil for your truck? It would be really neat to do the 4" spindle with a 2" coil and +2" rear springs + shackle 
Stretch it out to more of a 5-6" / 4"

Last edited on Fri Oct 25th, 2019 07:50 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Fri Oct 25th, 2019 09:24 pm
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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Dang man you hit it right on the head!! I'm rebuilding the front suspension, upper and lower control arms, high strength outer tie rod ends, I have a new rack and pinion to install (is it really that hard? It looks super simple..any special tools?) and I'm getting rancho shocks for the front, and yes MaxTrac offers 2” lift coils for my truck. The stock coils are worn out and sagging. I'm thinking I'm going to get the kit with the shackles and get an add a leaf pack from summit. I'm staying with 33”s, and hopefully with the tax return and company bonus then I'll be able to get the 8.8 axle with discs and 4.56 gears to install.

Last edited on Fri Oct 25th, 2019 09:44 pm by VelociRanger



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sat Oct 26th, 2019 10:26 am
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410customs

Idahome


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Yeah buddy! Sounds like a good plan
I did a rack and pinion install write up in my old 96 explorer let me get you a link

here it is 10 years ago now, page 28 for me:
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/410fortune-96-5-0l-xlt-refurbish-making-1-great-ex-from-2.142851/page-28#post-2097028

Last edited on Sat Oct 26th, 2019 10:27 am by 410customs



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 Posted: Mon Oct 28th, 2019 06:56 pm
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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Thank you for the link! I've got all of the parts I want picked out, and the cost of all of them is pretty hefty but I'm not getting anything cheap. If I'm gonna do it I figured I might as well do it right. Now, the only “snag” I've come to is the rear shocks. The shocks I have picked out are RS9000 shocks for a 2008 F150, they're 2” longer and they'll work for the 2” shackle lift, but I don't want to over extend the shocks when I put the add a leaf in, which is 1.5-2.5 inches. Would the shocks be fine with that, or should I look for new shocks look for shock extenders? Thanks for the help everyone and sorry for so many questions. As was stated before in another thread, this groups is the more “elite” group on this forum, so I highly value everyone's opinion on here.

Last edited on Mon Oct 28th, 2019 06:58 pm by VelociRanger



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Tue Oct 29th, 2019 09:48 am
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410customs

Idahome


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Okay so for shocks you can get rancho 9000's made for a Ranger with 2" or 4" of lift
After that you need to measure actual distances...
So basically with no shocks installed you measure the collapsed length (suspension at full stuff) and then you measure the extended length (at full droop)
that is what the RTI ramps you see 4x4 guys use are for...it flexes the suspension so you can measure the collapsed length on one side and extended on the other.

I am afraid if you get shocks designed for an F150 they will be valved wrong.



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