410customs
Idahome
Joined: Wed May 2nd, 2018
Posts: 2165
Name: Jamie ... Occupation: Elevator Design Worlds Tallest Buildings ... Interests: Ranger Based Vehicles and OFFROAD ...
Reputation Points: 2165
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The rear d shaft uses 12mm 12 point socket, I use 1/2" drive to break them loose then a dewalt 20v impact with 3-6" wobbly extension. I can get all 8 of the bolts this way without the need to jack up the rear axle and turn the wheels. 4 bolts at the axle, 4 bolts at the t case, rear d shaft is out
The front d shaft we unbolt from the front diff with the torx bits, t30 I believe and let the front d shaft hang on the t case when t case is dropped.
The front d shaft is held to the t case with 8ea 8mm bolts. Easier to get to when the t case is on the ground.
The upper plenum is removed to make it easier to get the wiring and plumbing out of the way and also to access the engine mount studs. It also makes it much easier to attach a pull strap to the engine (we use old seatbelt webbing and tie knots around exhaust manifolds).
Then of course, like you said, with no upper intake the 02 sensors, trans wiring, and upper bellhousing bolts are exposed and when the trans x member is removed you can let the t case hang way down exposing the top t case bolts, starter and all BH bolts.
I almost always get all the bellhousing bolts at once from underneath. I use a 36" extension, again 1/2" ratchet to break them loose then dewalt to pull them out.
Over the years we started to use the air tools less and less as the electric tools get stronger and stronger. I still need the ratchet to break loose the d shaft bolts and bellhousing bolts. Now that we are off grid the electric have pretty much taken over. (Air compressor sucks alot of power, Dewalt/Milwaukee batteries are charged by the sun)
However I am planning a very large gasoline powered compressor for the next shop.
I am also planning to get a dewalt 1/2" electric impact that will do 1200 ft lbs very soon!!
Recently we had a SOHC engine that was seized, so when it comes time to get the converter nuts off its impossible because you cannot turn the engine. IN this case we have to pull the trans back off the converter and then the converter is left hanging on the flexplate (back of the engine)
I have a special high clearance ratchet I use with a 1/4" drive 14mm short socket that will fit between engine and flexplate allowing me to then get all 4 converter nuts off and drop the converter.
There are some tools that are very useful for this, like 13mm speed wrench for some of the t case bolts. The high clearance 1/4" drive for tight spots, and I often use my "through wrench" socket wrench to get stubborn engine mount studs. The "through wrench" will allow you to put a ratchet on the 18mm engine hold down studs even when the engine is complete with nothing removed.
There are shortcuts for every situation, if a truck is going to recycle many times the seats come out and we will sawzall the floor open. This exposes the top t case bolts and top bellhousing bolts on a v8 truck without having to do anything underneath (Like if we are only after the trans and not the engine)
I counted yesterday, currently we have 5 explorer crush trucks, 3 ranger flip trucks and the sport trac with another sport trac on its way next week.
We have crushed 3 explorers and two rangers in the last 45-60 daysLast edited on Sun Aug 12th, 2018 09:22 am by 410customs
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I build custom RBV, specializing in drivetrain conversions, wiring, suspension and complete custom trucks
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