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Coil Spring and Torsion Bar same shocks?       #: 2337
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 Posted: Wed Mar 17th, 2021 08:22 pm
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VelociRanger
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I've been looking and debating about whether or not to go full on max Trac 4” lift or use there lift coils and do a level, but not with the cheap blocks and I decided on the level. I'll be able to fit 31” tires, and it'll look better. Lol, the other day the new Honda Civic pulled up next to me and we had about the same ride height. 

The problem: I can't find 2” extended shocks anywhere (some say for 2-3” lift but they mean spindle lift. Fab tech and and rough country are the two I remember.) 

The solution: use the shocks from the torsion bar trucks. 

The question: are they the same style of shock mounting? Meaning the threaded rod on top and the eye at the bottom. Also, are the torsion bar shocks the same length stock as the coil spring ones?



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Fri Mar 19th, 2021 07:59 pm
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Scrambler82
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Where to start...  why a 2" lift, almost not worth doing.
Why not try the SuperLift (SL) 5" Lift and you can run 32 or 33" tires.
I used the Front Super Lift kit and I used 6" SkyJacker Leak Springs, eliminated all the blocks, even the OEM pieces.
With these springs you need to evaluate the mounting bolts being used in both the Spring Mounts and the Springs themselves.  Two different sized bolts, you will need to modify the mounting in one direction or the other to fit what you can.   I don't remember which is larger, use the  largest pieces, (goes without saying).
In front I replaced the Torsion Bars with Coil-Over Shock Setup.  I think it has been around 10 years since I had the kit installed and I've only had to rebuild the Coil-Over Shocks once, about two years ago, it made a big different in the ride, also the coil-overs help in cornering.
If you do the SL Kit you will need the new Alignment Adjusters for the front end, (Name ?), these are a must do, don't try to not do it because you will have to take it apart again just to add them in.  (You may only need the Front SL Kit, used to be able to buy separately).
My '03 looks good with this lift and 33s, the ride could be a little better but not too bad even on the rougher dirt roads in my area.



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sat Mar 20th, 2021 12:17 am
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VelociRanger
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Only 2” of lift because I'll never need the 5” of lift, I don't really do any off-roading but I do use it around the property and daily driving. 2” of lift seems perfect for me, not too big but just enough. Also going to 32-33” tires I would need to re-gear to at least 4.56. With the 31” tires I would only need 4.10 and that would put me super close to the stock configuration meaning the speedo wouldn't be off and I wouldn't be under geared for towing. I can go to a junkyard today and get a 7.5 rear end with a LS and 4.10 gears (the 7.5 over the 8.8 because the 7.5 is cheaper and I won't need to get anything, it'll bolt in completely and I can re use most if not all hardware.) I did some deeper research today and I'll post some pictures later/tomorrow of what I found. I might have answered my own question.



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sat Mar 20th, 2021 10:02 am
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Scrambler82
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VelociRanger wrote:
Only 2” of lift because I'll never need the 5” of lift, I don't really do any off-roading but I do use it around the property and daily driving. 2” of lift seems perfect for me, not too big but just enough. Also going to 32-33” tires I would need to re-gear to at least 4.56. With the 31” tires I would only need 4.10 and that would put me super close to the stock configuration meaning the speedo wouldn't be off and I wouldn't be under geared for towing. I can go to a junkyard today and get a 7.5 rear end with a LS and 4.10 gears (the 7.5 over the 8.8 because the 7.5 is cheaper and I won't need to get anything, it'll bolt in completely and I can re use most if not all hardware.) I did some deeper research today and I'll post some pictures later/tomorrow of what I found. I might have answered my own question.
Just  suggestion ! No harm, no foul !

First off sorry I didn't think on the re-gearing... 31" with a 4-cylinder is going to give you trouble also.

2" of lift is going to interesting to see what you come out with... !

Good Luck on the project, post as you go !

p.s.
Just me... but, is it possible for you to change your FONT ?
I changed you posting above it is so much easier to read than what you use.
Just saying !



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sat Mar 20th, 2021 10:38 am
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VelociRanger
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Scrambler82 wrote:
VelociRanger wrote:

Only 2” of lift because I'll never need the 5” of lift, I don't really do any off-roading but I do use it around the property and daily driving. 2” of lift seems perfect for me, not too big but just enough. Also going to 32-33” tires I would need to re-gear to at least 4.56. With the 31” tires I would only need 4.10 and that would put me super close to the stock configuration meaning the speedo wouldn't be off and I wouldn't be under geared for towing. I can go to a junkyard today and get a 7.5 rear end with a LS and 4.10 gears (the 7.5 over the 8.8 because the 7.5 is cheaper and I won't need to get anything, it'll bolt in completely and I can re use most if not all hardware.) I did some deeper research today and I'll post some pictures later/tomorrow of what I found. I might have answered my own question.
Just  suggestion ! No harm, no foul !

First off sorry I didn't think on the re-gearing... 31" with a 4-cylinder is going to give you trouble also.

2" of lift is going to interesting to see what you come out with... !

Good Luck on the project, post as you go !

p.s.
Just me... but, is it possible for you to change your FONT ?
I changed you posting above it is so much easier to read than what you use.
Just saying !

My bad if I came across rude or anything, I didn't mean too lol. Trust me, I would LOVE a 6” lift on 33”s, but like you said a 4 banger with 31”s is already probably pushing it. I've got some used 31x10.50 tires on the way today. 

Also, sorry about the font. I've been meaning to change it back but I kept forgetting. I also lightened the color too, thank you for reminding me.  :fp:thumbsup:



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sat Mar 20th, 2021 02:33 pm
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Scrambler82
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VelociRanger wrote:
Scrambler82 wrote:

VelociRanger wrote:


Only 2” of lift because I'll never need the 5” of lift, I don't really do any off-roading but I do use it around the property and daily driving. 2” of lift seems perfect for me, not too big but just enough. Also going to 32-33” tires I would need to re-gear to at least 4.56. With the 31” tires I would only need 4.10 and that would put me super close to the stock configuration meaning the speedo wouldn't be off and I wouldn't be under geared for towing. I can go to a junkyard today and get a 7.5 rear end with a LS and 4.10 gears (the 7.5 over the 8.8 because the 7.5 is cheaper and I won't need to get anything, it'll bolt in completely and I can re use most if not all hardware.) I did some deeper research today and I'll post some pictures later/tomorrow of what I found. I might have answered my own question.
Just  suggestion ! No harm, no foul !

First off sorry I didn't think on the re-gearing... 31" with a 4-cylinder is going to give you trouble also.

2" of lift is going to interesting to see what you come out with... !

Good Luck on the project, post as you go !

p.s.
Just me... but, is it possible for you to change your FONT ?
I changed you posting above it is so much easier to read than what you use.
Just saying !

My bad if I came across rude or anything, I didn't mean too lol. Trust me, I would LOVE a 6” lift on 33”s, but like you said a 4 banger with 31”s is already probably pushing it. I've got some used 31x10.50 tires on the way today. 

Also, sorry about the font. I've been meaning to change it back but I kept forgetting. I also lightened the color too, thank you for reminding me.  :fp:thumbsup:

No problem or as I say to my Granddaughters "No Biggy" !

The Font thing bugged the pi$$ out of my but as I always say, it is what it is !

I looked for a 4x4 with a 4 cylinder for a while before buying my '03, I don't think they make a 4x, 4-Cyl.

Your truck sounds like it should be good after the mods, my EDGE had Torsion Bars, but it is a 4x, it has been a great truck. but no 4-cyl... just about though, with the 3.0-SLOW.

Always wanted the 5.0L Swap but never got there...yet !

Ltr, keep posting.



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sat Mar 20th, 2021 03:14 pm
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Scrambler82 wrote:



I looked for a 4x4 with a 4 cylinder for a while before buying my '03, I don't think they make a 4x, 4-Cyl.




I believe the 2.3L 4 cyl 4x4 was available on the Ranger up until 97.  My dad had a 90 4x4 2.3L manual tranny that he kept for about 2 years.  If they came with the automatic transmission they were gutless. The manuals were better but the rpms had be kept 3300 rpm or greater.



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 Posted: Sun Mar 21st, 2021 11:38 am
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VelociRanger
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Okay so here's what I found. I went on rockauto.com (best parts site I swear) and compared 2 shocks of the same exact brand/model, but for coil springs and for torsion bars. 

Rear for coil spring



Rear for torsion bar



Front for coil spring



Front for torsion bar



It seems that overall the torsion bar shocks are about 3” taller than the coil spring ones. The other difference I noticed is that for the front, the bottom shock mount eyes for coil spring trucks are 2 1/5” apart, while the torsion bar trucks are 2 7/16”. Not much of a difference, probably just use a drill to widen the hole. I'll go ahead and order them and see what happens.



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Mon Mar 22nd, 2021 06:12 pm
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Scrambler82
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Just asking... for a friend ! LoL !
If the lift you are installing is a 2" Lift, why not use the shocks that are recommended for your vehicle and the Kit you chose ?
Are you using a Lift Kit or buying parts to get there ?
What Brand ?



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Mon Mar 22nd, 2021 06:30 pm
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VelociRanger
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It's not so much a “kit”, it's the coil springs from the kit. And I tried to find the shocks for the coil springs, but I couldn't find them. They're MaxTrac 2” lift coils and I searched MaxTrac's store and couldn't find the shocks for the front. I'm using an add a leaf in the rear along with a shackle to equal ~2.5” of lift, depending on how badly my springs are worn. I couldn't find the shocks for the rear either. Maybe I just didn't look hard enough lol. I was getting frustrated, so it's a possibility.



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Mon Mar 22nd, 2021 10:21 pm
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Scrambler82
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VelociRanger wrote:
It's not so much a “kit”, it's the coil springs from the kit. And I tried to find the shocks for the coil springs, but I couldn't find them. They're MaxTrac 2” lift coils and I searched MaxTrac's store and couldn't find the shocks for the front. I'm using an add a leaf in the rear along with a shackle to equal ~2.5” of lift, depending on how badly my springs are worn. I couldn't find the shocks for the rear either. Maybe I just didn't look hard enough lol. I was getting frustrated, so it's a possibility.
It is up to you... but choosing pieces just because they appear to fit the idea isn't always the best choice; Kit parts works together.  
Since I don't know what year your Ranger is or even if it is a 2x or 4x, the problem is, I'm not sure there is a lift kit for your Ranger.

In your first posting you mentioned a 4" Kit, then you went off on the individual parts direction... unless you have experience with putting together all the parts and getting them to work together you are taking a risk that what you are putting together will not work out !
One thing you mentioned is the added Leafs in the rear, yes you might get the lift you want but you will increase the ride harshness, then if you pick the wrong shocks, they will either end up causing ride problems and/or not controlling anything because they are working at the incorrect height; all things you need to take into consideration.
I'm not trying to tell you not to piece the lift part but be aware of the consequences of choice.

Is there a kit for your truck ?

Also, just saying... for myself, have you considered entering your Truck Info and added parts to your Signature, it allows the reader to make an assessment of what you are writing about.

As I have said before, good luck on this project, post where you are and where you are going AND PICTURES !



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Mon Mar 22nd, 2021 10:28 pm
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VelociRanger
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Scrambler82 wrote:
VelociRanger wrote:

It's not so much a “kit”, it's the coil springs from the kit. And I tried to find the shocks for the coil springs, but I couldn't find them. They're MaxTrac 2” lift coils and I searched MaxTrac's store and couldn't find the shocks for the front. I'm using an add a leaf in the rear along with a shackle to equal ~2.5” of lift, depending on how badly my springs are worn. I couldn't find the shocks for the rear either. Maybe I just didn't look hard enough lol. I was getting frustrated, so it's a possibility.
It is up to you... but choosing pieces just because they appear to fit the idea isn't always the best choice; Kit parts works together.  
Since I don't know what year your Ranger is or even if it is a 2x or 4x, the problem is, I'm not sure there is a lift kit for your Ranger.

In your first posting you mentioned a 4" Kit, then you went off on the individual parts direction... unless you have experience with putting together all the parts and getting them to work together you are taking a risk that what you are putting together will not work out !
One thing you mentioned is the added Leafs in the rear, yes you might get the lift you want but you will increase the ride harshness, then if you pick the wrong shocks, they will either end up causing ride problems and/or not controlling anything because they are working at the incorrect height; all things you need to take into consideration.
I'm not trying to tell you not to piece the lift part but be aware of the consequences of choice.

Is there a kit for your truck ?

Also, just saying... for myself, have you considered entering your Truck Info and added parts to your Signature, it allows the reader to make an assessment of what you are writing about.

As I have said before, good luck on this project, post where you are and where you are going AND PICTURES !

I mentioned the lift because that was one of the things I was contemplating. MaxTrac makes a 4” lift KIT but I didn't want to go that high. I decided on the 2” lift coils, not part of a kit. I've been driving around on front lowering coils and stock shocks for about 5 years. I didn't know the coils were swapped until I went and redid the front end parts. The ride is bad, so I'm sure the coils and new shocks that appear to work together will be fine. If they don't work, I've also thought about getting coil springs from a 4wd ranger and putting those in. I know the rear will be a harsher ride, but I keep a truck tool box with a jack, jack stands, jumper cables, miscellaneous fluids, 2 3/8” chains 15' long....basically the rear is pretty loaded. If it doesn't work then I'll have all the parts to go back to stock. 

my truck is in my signature. It's a 2008 ranger 2wd.



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Wed Mar 24th, 2021 08:29 pm
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I've been looking and debating about whether or not to go full on max Trac 4” lift or use there lift coils and do a level, but not with the cheap blocks and I decided on the level. I'll be able to fit 31” tires, and it'll look better. Lol, the other day the new Honda Civic pulled up next to me and we had about the same ride height. 

The problem: I can't find 2” extended shocks anywhere (some say for 2-3” lift but they mean spindle lift. Fab tech and and rough country are the two I remember.) 

The solution: use the shocks from the torsion bar trucks. 

The question: are they the same style of shock mounting? Meaning the threaded rod on top and the eye at the bottom. Also, are the torsion bar shocks the same length stock as the coil spring ones?



Just offering a perspective and some insight..

I'd say you're doing well with your researching but I would like to offer some experience behind some of the actual products on the market and keep you in what I think is the budget level best for your expectations and usage.  


Front
Most 98-11 Rangers use torsion bars on 4WD, I say most because the 2WD I believe carried coil springs until 2010-2011 (still confirming the year).  Most kits are going to offer you generally 4WD options from most companies.  The torsion bars for ford are all marked via numbers because each torsion bar is a different spring rate much like springs.

You can find shocks in any length by nearly any manufacture with the exception of the shops not willing to help you find what you're looking for because that's work and to some degree, the lesser brands do not offer some sizes as they just make application specific shocks/struts.  I would not just specifically assume a 2" longer shock is correct assertion for the situation.  I would suggest measuring droop and compression at all 4 corners of the vehicle and know the measurements needed and get those.  Yes, a little bit more effort and money but at least you know it's correct and for your vehicle.

Most leveling coils, doing the same or similar as say Daystar urethane or Aluminum spacers, a lot of times you can use the OE size shock.  Not all leveling kits require longer shocks and each company will usually try to suggest what shock to use.  The springs will provide a better ride than the spacers regardless of material made from.  Not so much On road, but definitely on washboard type roads, you'll know.

There are also bucket kits that will allow you to add in much more capable options should you ever chase that but outside of mentioning it, I don't think that's the direction for you.


Rear
You would be best going on RockAuto if you're being budget conscious and want to make use of at least one of the site vendors here.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7467168&cc=1442105&jsn=10&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1eLc36x7RagAV9qWoBGYzks2kIIGcMG6lGcjeM2THnK5tlbcIXoipJaZksJXhSAFe%2Bq0OVWZU0IR6gw%2BsZH%2BM61tXpU0YroKmNr3rIummb476%2Bl4Zr7cgIwJE9sxaVNXZ3tNnXP2m98C6G83RuOYdNe8ok1qk1b0OWMOs72PpvYbc%2FUs76%2Fa1aiT17VYW42E%2FAHfkt6newxj%2FUdZRadFVyLSo3bXyGTtcYyo9QDOWIYHldyh8nwi5qzlL0fO8mUlMvG4Bp1L0ZDnCOBZgRpZWrexeQrb0DfV2fb56ahiUc5DK1LaKJfUbJIpZksDksVNyuOVG8%2BMD1sLOvpfHhWyKUcsEzKAzROe7cniPBz2JW5AwPL0tLk4nU2UbRzo4c4T8SSISgQ6oo0B5Uvfjo6ZcDT7xXQNHRTOBfuLmNAYWzH9LC5gpxNrpoiDT1%2FXNWdISwcFKFeTCCwcqkygjihhvqe9yGOJt%2BISjA%3D%3D 


Unless you can get an adjustable Heavy-Duty, 1"/ 2"/ 3" rear shackle, which we don't currently know of, we'd recommend just replacing the shackles and maybe consider adding some urethane bushings just due to age condition, etc. to compliment the above spring pack, good for better than 1.5" of lift and you will go from 1140lb springs to 1750lb springs.  Your helper springs will net you about 350/500lbs of payload but no lift, and the shackles aren't going to give you any payload capability and your putting all your faith into a component known to fail on most rangers, especially if you're in the snow belt at all.  Texas could NOW be considered the snow belt these days. 

All in all the helper springs are also a set spring rate and a static spring rate.  By that I mean it's not configured to your spring back specifically to work with it and I know what some companies say but I'd bet a body part they have fewer than 5 versions they use between full size and mid size vehicles. This is what accounts for the rough choppy ride.

A spring pack will be springs matched to increase payload, will offer lift, and give you a smoother result and ride at the end of the day. The cost differences and installation aspects are nearly a wash in effort and with dollars.

If you were to find a set of adjustable rear shackles, setting them on 1" or even 2" with the above mentioned spring pack to get the nose of the truck in a slight rake might lend to adding to some MPG with even a 2" lift.  





I mentioned the lift because that was one of the things I was contemplating. MaxTrac makes a 4” lift KIT but I didn't want to go that high. I decided on the 2” lift coils, not part of a kit. I've been driving around on front lowering coils and stock shocks for about 5 years. I didn't know the coils were swapped until I went and redid the front end parts. The ride is bad, so I'm sure the coils and new shocks that appear to work together will be fine. If they don't work, I've also thought about getting coil springs from a 4wd ranger and putting those in. I know the rear will be a harsher ride, but I keep a truck tool box with a jack, jack stands, jumper cables, miscellaneous fluids, 2 3/8” chains 15' long....basically the rear is pretty loaded. If it doesn't work then I'll have all the parts to go back to stock. 

my truck is in my signature. It's a 2008 ranger 2wd.



A secondary note, If you're going to be loaded with a toolbox outback, as many customers are for us out here in Las Vegas and the South West in general. My suggestion here is two-fold.  (1) Lightens the load so you can use that payload capacity for other needs or uses.  Not sure what you use the chains for but if its for towing or pulling people out but they can be dangerous even when used properly. 

Even if the chains are overkill in dimensional aspects, that doesn't always mean the integrity of things they are attached to are.  I would suggest a snatch-strap for pulling friends and family out.  We happen to carry and favor ARB but Bubba Rope, Kinetic, Smittybuilt, etc.. and for just a towing purpose, a standard 3-4" tow strap, 30ft long from your favorite trailer shop or if you have to, Harbor Freight works alright. 

Jumper cables, you can make a decent pair DIY with some good ring terminals and some Anderson plugs.  You can also see what we offer in a kit form - Our Onboard Jumper cable kit One smaller cable attaches to the battery all the time, the red "Anderson plug" lower in the front grill or tucked to under the bumper area facing out, when needed, plug and play with 18-35ft cables all in a neat & handy package. 

Takes up a bit less effort, no popping the hood.  I will have to get some pics of the two kits we've done on both a Ranger and a Newer Tacoma.  Some may say well I can't take them in another vehicle, true! But no one's going to borrow them and not never bring them back or lose them either. Help organize your tool box too. But there is always this as an option too - Litium Battery Jump Pack 


After taking 2 days to finish up this, lol.  I hope any information helps or inspires some thoughts.

.

Last edited on Wed Mar 24th, 2021 08:33 pm by 12° North Industries



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I was just reading 12 degree's posting, good info and from his own statement experience.
I was having trouble with the Kit shock when I did the 5" Lift, I replaced the double block with a single spring set from Sky Jacker, the shocks I assumed would be the same ones because of the overall lift but... although they worked they were not right !
I rode those shocks for a while fighting bump steer, excessive bounce, and believe it or not poor braking characteristics.
Enter "ORW" - Off Road Wharehouse" !  Based on a suggestion I brought my truck to the local ORW Shop, lucky me for the location, and told them my story, ride poor, braking funny, terrible bump steering.   They ask me to leave the truck and they would look at it, they called the next day and asked me to come by and I did.  We went over what they found and what the steps were going to be to fix it and of course the money.
They found out I needed two different sized shocks, something to do with the FX4 Rear Axle, doesn't matter but once they replaced the shock everything was right again !
All because of a professional shop doing the work that they knew, not guessing at.


Consider getting a Pro Suspension Shop to get the shocks for you, they will do the correct measuring of the shocks and not only order what you need they will have replacements and maybe in stock.

The next time you need shock you will already know what size(s) to get and you can then buy your own.

Not trying to say you can't do it but as I found out doin it right is another story.



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5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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Well y'all were right. Guessing on the shocks didn't work, at least for the front. Torsion bar and coil spring trucks do NOT have the same shocks. But, 12* North was right. The stock shocks were almost the perfect length for the 2” lift coils. I'll get pictures of the front after the install. I haven't done the rear yet because I've been waiting on the axle. I finally got it today, and I think I scored BIG. I got an 8.8, 4.10 gears with a LS, 10” brakes, u bolts with backing plates, factory lift blocks and a factory sway bar!! All for only $250. Not bad I don't think. The only thing is the pinion seal seems to be leaking pretty bad, the truck it came from only had 119,000 miles on it. Is the pinion seal easy to replace myself or is it best to have a shop do it? Here's the axle.



Pinion seal leak



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

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Glad to see it working out in your favor.

On a scale of 1-10 on the Driveway install index, that pinion seal should be a 3.5 depending on the tool(s) you use to pull it with and off or on the truck should be almost equal in ease.



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12° North Industries wrote:
Glad to see it working out in your favor.

On a scale of 1-10 on the Driveway install index, that pinion seal should be a 3.5 depending on the tool(s) you use to pull it with and off or on the truck should be almost equal in ease.

Well, maybe not entirely in my favor. I do have 4 shocks I've gotta find something to do with lol.  I don't want to return them because I've opened all the boxes and would feel bad returning product that's possibly not resalable. And for tools I don't have power tools of any kind, just good ol hand tools. I did watch a video on you tube from a guy named “fordtechmakuloko” and it was a walk through process. Seems easy enough. Fingers crossed. I am also gonna check out your website for recovery straps and other stuff you mentioned to lighten the load in the bed. I want to get rid of this tool box but don't have space inside the cab to put anything with a single cab. Been thinking about those hideaway side tool boxes that fit inside the bed by the wheel well that fold out.



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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VelociRanger wrote:
12° North Industries wrote:

Glad to see it working out in your favor.

On a scale of 1-10 on the Driveway install index, that pinion seal should be a 3.5 depending on the tool(s) you use to pull it with and off or on the truck should be almost equal in ease.

Well, maybe not entirely in my favor. I do have 4 shocks I've gotta find something to do with lol.  I don't want to return them because I've opened all the boxes and would feel bad returning product that's possibly not resalable. And for tools I don't have power tools of any kind, just good ol hand tools. I did watch a video on you tube from a guy named “fordtechmakuloko” and it was a walk through process. Seems easy enough. Fingers crossed. I am also gonna check out your website for recovery straps and other stuff you mentioned to lighten the load in the bed. I want to get rid of this tool box but don't have space inside the cab to put anything with a single cab. Been thinking about those hideaway side tool boxes that fit inside the bed by the wheel well that fold out.



Ideally, the one thing AutoZone may be decent for is tool rental. Loan for value, return complete, full refund. you rented a tool for free on the honor system.

As far as the shocks, opened usually is okay with most companies provided everything is [just] back like it was received.  but if the boxes look like Christmas 2020 (?) may be a different conversation or a restocking fee unfortunately.


I will inbox you a modest list with links to play with as well as some other options for future considerations, as well as update a similar portion of that list here for future readers of the post to see.  This way if you'd like to move forward, it'll streamline our conversation too.



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Got the 8.8 swapped in, the power I lost by putting the new tires on has come back. Speedo is accurate-ish. Also put the add a leaf in along with the shackles. The shackles had 2 holes and I put it in the shorter one, I didn't want the back too high. The ride doesn't seem to have changed much with the add a leaf. Did the pinion seal, THAT was a pita. So far no leaks. The nut on the rear flange was freakin on there dude. Also changed the rear diff fluid, and used gasket makes for my first time. No leaks there either. Did new wheel cylinders on the new 8.8 along with brake drums, shoes and hardware. Note, DO NOT GET THE POWER STOP BRAKE KIT FOR THE 8.8 WITH 10” BRAKES. The inner hub hole is basically a press fit and now I can't get the new drum off because it fit so tight. All in all the whole lift is done, I didn't get much pictures so I'm sorry y'all. I'll post some tomorrow of the after and some I got during.



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

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Good job!!! Once you get rollin and stuffs workin, it's hard to stop and take pictures. I'm right there with ya. The one I always forget to take is the before.... you can always point to what you did, but if they dont know what it looked like before they dont see your efforts.



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What is the thoughts on the Shocks ?



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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The bottom mounting holes for the front shocks were too close to mount, drilling them out would've gotten rid of a bunch of metal and probably wouldn't be safe for use. The rear shocks I haven't checked, it appears that the overall lift I have is the perfect height for shocks shocks all around, so really I didn't need to get any :fp oh well, many lessons learned here. I PROMISE I'll get pictures up later.



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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VelociRanger
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Before: the bed was loaded down, but the front is where I see the biggest lift. Those are 235/75r15 tires, the new ones are 31” tires. Look at the wheel well gap. I could probably fit 32”s. 










New wheel cylinders, shoes, drums and hardware:




You can see the add a leaf, and the new rear axle. It looks like it came that way from the factory ;-) lol it was easy, just unbolted the old and bolted in the new.




Current ride height:




This picture doesn't do it justice, it's lifted quite a bit. I'll try to find that backroad from the previous pictures.



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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Nice! Like a new truck, new to you anyway. Like it when a project works out.



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Ford-Rangers.com Ranger Forum > Tech Section > Suspension Tech > Coil Spring and Torsion Bar same shocks?

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