Which Transfer Case Adapter? - General Ranger Discussion - Welcome To Our Ford Ranger Forum

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ILivermore
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Hello all. I am new to this forum. Joined because it looks like it is more active than most of the others. I am currently in the process of swapping the 3.0L v6 out of my 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 for a 5.0L V8 out of a 2000 Ford Explorer Limited AWD. The truck has a 4R44E transmission in it right now, and I will be using the 4R70W out of the explorer for the swap. I want to retain the Borg Warner 1354 transfer case that came in the ranger. My question is, do I need the 5" adapter or the 9" adapter? I'd prefer to not have to modify the driveshafts if possible. Thanks in advance!

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 12:16 pm

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JAMMAN

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Well hello and welcome to F-R! Quite a few swappers here there are about 6 of us that have done V8 swaps but since I did a 2WD I cannot directly answer your question. 410 will try to talk you out of it in favor of one from a F150 :)

Anyhow is this the "advanced adapters" kit you are speaking of? I have heard nightmares on selecting driveshafts but someone more versed will chime in.

Keep us in the loop on the project and post lots of pictures please. We have a built in gallery.

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 12:31 pm

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ILivermore
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JAMMAN wrote:
Well hello and welcome to F-R! Quite a few swappers here there are about 6 of us that have done V8 swaps but since I did a 2WD I cannot directly answer your question. 410 will try to talk you out of it in favor of one from a F150 :)

Anyhow is this the "advanced adapters" kit you are speaking of? I have heard nightmares on selecting driveshafts but someone more versed will chime in.

Keep us in the loop on the project and post lots of pictures please. We have a built in gallery.

Yes it is. I would rather keep the transfer case thats in it than to have to swap transfer cases also

Last edited on Tue Aug 7th, 2018 12:31 pm by ILivermore

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 12:37 pm

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Idahome

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I do not think they make the 5" adapter anymore, but you can contact them and ask

my 1988 Bronco II uses the 4r70w to 1354 adapter and I wish I had never done this. Why?
Because Advance Adapters cost is like $600
Then you have to completely dis assemble your 4r70w transmission in order to install the output shaft that comes with the adapter
So a transmission rebuild / refurbish at the very least is required.
Now you will be stuck with a 4r70w transmission that is custom, meaning you cannot just use any 4r70w from a V8 explorer for the life of the truck you are stuck with the converted unit.

The ranger 1354 t case is a good unit, do not get me wrong. BUT there are other transfer cases that will bolt to the 4r70w WITHOUT the need for the expensive adapter and customized transmission

You can use a 4406m, 1356m, or even Ford NP205. This opens up another world for you as well because you can build a 1356/56 or 1356/205 doubler

Driveshaft modifications are a part of every V8 conversion, no real way around it. Always plan to modify driveshafts and exhaust, ALWAYS every conversion is different. Sometimes we will have a ford vehicle driveshaft here in our collection (I have about 50 driveshafts for cores) that will come close to working, but almost never be a direct bolt in.
I build my own front driveshafts most of the time, but I still pay to have the rear shaft modified to fit our ranger conversions (usually F150 shaft shortened/retubed) this should run about $250-350 HALF THE COST OF THE ADAPTER!!! let alone the added expense of installing the output shaft into your 4r70w trans. This winter I will be installing a new 4r70w into my Bronco II and finally be ditching that AA adapted custom trans I have (I plan to run a doubler)
4r70w has a Ford 6 bolt pattern with 30 spline output shaft, many t cases made that will bolt to this......

Even if you use the AA adapter chances of you keeping your existing driveshafts are SLIM, the T case will MOVE behind the V8. 5" adapter is great for the BII, 9" adapter works fine in everything else.

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 12:39 pm

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ILivermore
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410customs wrote:
I do not think they make the 5" adapter anymore, but you can contact them and ask

my 1988 Bronco II uses the 4r70w to 1354 adapter and I wish I had never done this. Why?
Because Advance Adapters cost is like $600
Then you have to completely dis assemble your 4r70w transmission in order to install the output shaft that comes with the adapter
So a transmission rebuild / refurbish at the very least is required.
Now you will be stuck with a 4r70w transmission that is custom, meaning you cannot just use any 4r70w from a V8 explorer for the life of the truck you are stuck with the converted unit.

The ranger 1354 t case is a good unit, do not get me wrong. BUT there are other transfer cases that will bolt to the 4r70w WITHOUT the need for the expensive adapter and customized transmission

You can use a 4406m, 1356m, or even Ford NP205. This opens up another world for you as well because you can build a 1356/56 or 1356/205 doubler

Driveshaft modifications are a part of every V8 conversion, no real way around it. Always plan to modify driveshafts and exhaust, ALWAYS every conversion is different. Sometimes we will have a ford vehicle driveshaft here in our collection (I have about 50 driveshafts for cores) that will come close to working, but almost never be a direct bolt in.
I build my own front driveshafts most of the time, but I still pay to have the rear shaft modified to fit our ranger conversions (usually F150 shaft shortened/retubed) this should run about $250-350 HALF THE COST OF THE ADAPTER!!! let alone the added expense of installing the output shaft into your 4r70w trans. This winter I will be installing a new 4r70w into my Bronco II and finally be ditching that AA adapted custom trans I have (I plan to run a doubler)
4r70w has a Ford 6 bolt pattern with 30 spline output shaft, many t cases made that will bolt to this......

Even if you use the AA adapter chances of you keeping your existing driveshafts are SLIM, the T case will MOVE behind the V8. 5" adapter is great for the BII, 9" adapter works fine in everything else.
Yeah but aren't those all manual shifts? I would like to retain the electronic shift. And how would the 4406 mount?

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 02:30 pm

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NoPower

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Welcome, Glad you joined us. Have fun and enjoy F-R. To bad that the donnor vehicle wasn't a 5.0 4X4 Explorer.
From Don
Grove City, Ohio. :frd

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 02:40 pm

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ILivermore
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NoPower wrote:
:hi

Welcome, Glad you joined us. Have fun and enjoy F-R. To bad that the donnor vehicle wasn't a 5.0 4X4 Explorer.
From Don
Grove City, Ohio. :frd

Did they even make 5.0 4x4's?

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 02:53 pm

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black06xlt
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Pretty sure they were all awd. 410customs is the guy to ask about this. But I'm almost positive they were all awd.

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 02:53 pm

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ILivermore
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black06xlt wrote:
Pretty sure they were all awd. 410customs is the guy to ask about this. But I'm almost positive they were all awd.
That's what I was thinking

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 03:00 pm

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black06xlt
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But anyway welcome to the site. We have a well blended knowledge base here. Post pics of your ride

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 03:08 pm

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JAMMAN

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I'm pretty sure the 06 thru 2010 had true 4wd but had the 4.6 so it was a different animal all together.

Actually I'm certain of it, my Dad had an 06 with 4hi and 4low. I'm sure because I borrowed it for an interstate trip, put it in 4HI just to see how it felt AND IT WOULDN'T COME OUT OF 4 HI. I drove it several hundred miles getting about 11MPG. Sometime the next day it magically started working again.

I decided not to buy it off him after that.

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 03:44 pm

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all 5.0 trucks are AWD or RWD. 1996-2001 Explorer and Mercury Mountaineer
96-97.5 had GT40 heads, 97.5-01 are gt40p
98+ is returnless fuel

They all use the 4r70w automatic 1996-2001
The trans has 30 spline 6 bolt Ford output allowing the use of several different t cases

The BW4404 AWD t case is a 35/65 power split, it uses clutches and they burn up and create heat, full time power sucker MPG killer made for soccer moms

As soon as you ditch the AWD in a 5.0L Explorer and install a real t case, 2ed, 4hi and 4low you will see what I am talking about. They go from soccer mom suv to a real truck just like that. MPG goes up, passing power returns, and wear and tear on front tires, bearings and cv axles is noticable. Steering feels lighter, its is just a much better setup.

You can use manual t cases
1356
np205
4406

Or e shift 4406
and install a smaller fuel tank (explorer sport) and a stand alone 4x4 electronic control module (Motorolla box from 04+ Fords)

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 03:49 pm

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To use electronic shift
you need 4406e shift t case from 4.6 expedition / F150
Motorolla control box from 04+ Ford Ranger
2wd, 4wd, 4low Dash switch from same ranger
transfer case shift motor wiring harness (from ranger or F150)
Explorer sport 14 gallon fuel tank (19 gallon explorer tank will not clear the shift motor)
The 4406 bolts right in
F150 / 4.6 truck front driveshaft bolts right in with conversion U joint
Rear driveshaft from F150 will need to be shortened
Stock 5.0L Explorer transmission mount is weak and should be upgraded for this
4406 t case bolts to transmission both E shift and manual shift
Manual shift you cut hole in the floor and add shifter and linkage
All conversion T cases you run the 4hi and 4low wires to the GEM module/instrument cluster for a fully functional conversion (4hi and 4low lights in dash)

I have done this SOOO MANY times
My 1996 explorer 4406 conversion thread can be found on the Explorer4x4.com website under my old username 410Fortune goes low range

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 04:48 pm

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410customs wrote:
To use electronic shift
you need 4406e shift t case from 4.6 expedition / F150
Motorolla control box from 04+ Ford Ranger
2wd, 4wd, 4low Dash switch from same ranger
transfer case shift motor wiring harness (from ranger or F150)
Explorer sport 14 gallon fuel tank (19 gallon explorer tank will not clear the shift motor)
The 4406 bolts right in
F150 / 4.6 truck front driveshaft bolts right in with conversion U joint
Rear driveshaft from F150 will need to be shortened
Stock 5.0L Explorer transmission mount is weak and should be upgraded for this
4406 t case bolts to transmission both E shift and manual shift
Manual shift you cut hole in the floor and add shifter and linkage
All conversion T cases you run the 4hi and 4low wires to the GEM module/instrument cluster for a fully functional conversion (4hi and 4low lights in dash)

I have done this SOOO MANY times
My 1996 explorer 4406 conversion thread can be found on the Explorer4x4.com website under my old username 410Fortune goes low range
Someone was saying the stock transfer case motor out of the 1354 will bolt right in to the 4406. Is there any truth to that?

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 05:48 pm

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They might! What year is your Ranger?
I have not done an e shift in a Ranger, I do not know if the E shift motor will clear the gas tank either. My knowledge is mostly Explorer but I am doing Rangers now so give me time :)

The 4406 E shift t case motor looks to be same part as Ranger shift motor, that would KIND OF simplify the conversion, not sure if your current GEM and 4x4 switch will work with the 4r70w and pcm or not...it might!

I do know the information is out there, I have seen many many Rangers converted to 302/4r70w and even the 4406e shift t case, they even do the electronic equipment group conversion with overhead console, center display and vehicle information center and electronic HVAC controls/climate control (Basically a Ranger gone Eddie Bauer/Limited Explorer) conversion 100%
I am more of a manual shift guy myself :) but "run what ya brung!" is my favorite motto

Last edited on Tue Aug 7th, 2018 05:51 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 05:54 pm

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410customs wrote:
They might! What year is your Ranger?
I have not done an e shift in a Ranger, I do not know if the E shift motor will clear the gas tank either. My knowledge is mostly Explorer but I am doing Rangers now so give me time :)

The 4406 E shift t case motor looks to be same part as Ranger shift motor, that would KIND OF simplify the conversion, not sure if your current GEM and 4x4 switch will work with the 4r70w and pcm or not...it might!

I do know the information is out there, I have seen many many Rangers converted to 302/4r70w and even the 4406e shift t case, they even do the electronic equipment group conversion with overhead console, center display and vehicle information center and electronic HVAC controls/climate control (Basically a Ranger gone Eddie Bauer/Limited Explorer) conversion 100%
I am more of a manual shift guy myself :) but "run what ya brung!" is my favorite motto
It is a 2000. Also, what other problems should I look for with this swap? 2000 Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0L FFV with 4r44e trans

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 07:24 pm

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ILivermore wrote:
410customs wrote:

They might! What year is your Ranger?
I have not done an e shift in a Ranger, I do not know if the E shift motor will clear the gas tank either. My knowledge is mostly Explorer but I am doing Rangers now so give me time :)

The 4406 E shift t case motor looks to be same part as Ranger shift motor, that would KIND OF simplify the conversion, not sure if your current GEM and 4x4 switch will work with the 4r70w and pcm or not...it might!

I do know the information is out there, I have seen many many Rangers converted to 302/4r70w and even the 4406e shift t case, they even do the electronic equipment group conversion with overhead console, center display and vehicle information center and electronic HVAC controls/climate control (Basically a Ranger gone Eddie Bauer/Limited Explorer) conversion 100%
I am more of a manual shift guy myself :) but "run what ya brung!" is my favorite motto
It is a 2000. Also, what other problems should I look for with this swap? 2000 Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0L FFV with 4r44e trans
Single cab or ex cab?

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 07:29 pm

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JAMMAN

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Here is an "eddie bauer" ranger, I'm amazed he hasn't posted in this thread:

https://ford-rangers.com/view_post.php?post_id=12514

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 10:21 pm

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swap is too easy in your truck
98-01 Ranger is pretty much exactly the same as a 98-01 Explorer until after the drivers doors, then the frames change
The ranger has vacuum hubs, I always delete these, they are problematic. Explorer cv axles, knuckles, unit bearings bolt directly on. Now you have a live front axle, no hubs
buy entire 5.0L explorer donor truck
Install 5.0L drivetrain, from radiator to tailhousing into ranger. There are about 4 wires to deal with on your 2000 3.0 conversion.
Add pats key, ign lock cylnder, module and pcm from 98-01 donor 5.0 truck
Bolt on 4406 t case
fit front d shaft from donor 4.6 F150 or expedition using conversion U joint
Have rear d shaft modified to suit
Have exhaust installed from stock explorer down pipes to a dual in single out muffler, back over tail and out
hookup 4x4 lights
charge AC
Decide if you want to use Explorer seats, console, rear axle, and more.......

Thats the short version
You can sell your 3.0L stuff to help pay for it all if any of it still works well / low miles
Most reliable RBV drivetrain ever = 302 / 4r70w and 1/2 ton t case of your choice

I will cover this in the sport trac conversion thread we have going right now
I have been fabricating anti rotation bar brackets for the snow tracked suzuki samurai
Once this project is finished (few days) we are back on the sport trac......

Last edited on Tue Aug 7th, 2018 10:43 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 10:28 pm

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You didn't mention the motor mounts, what do you do about that and is it the same for a 4.0 as it would be for a 3.0.

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 10:34 pm

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I have done both
You can order brand new mounts for a 5.0L explorer (they are like $35 a pair) and use those
Or you can keep the 3.0L mounts and drill one hole in the 5.0L engine plate and bolt it down
Both methods work well
The trans mount many have used a urethane mustang AOD mount with a little fab. My BII has a customized Autofab urethane 4.0 mount, most explorers I do I usually end up building some sort of urethane bushing trans mount to support the 4406 or at least replace the factory 5.0 unit with a new one to get by for a while
Every conversion has a different timeline, budget and end goal

There are a few other things to know like keep the ranger ac condenser, much better mounting then the 5.0 unit (its mounted to the radiator and sucks to deal with)
Change the power steering high pressure hose and cooler with the 5.0 stuff while engine is out
I like to delete some of the plumbing on the 5.0L water jacket and vacuum system to simplify things
You keep the ranger canister purge valve and Evac setup and simply plug it into 5.0 upper intake
Use the 3.0 water temp sensor for the dash, screws into 5.0 engine
Use 98-01 explorer exhaust manifolds or plan to spend some good $$$$ to make more power with some TM headers / conversion headers / custom exhaust job. 96-97.5 welded manifolds suck
98-01 5.0 is returnless fuel, same as your 98-01 ranger, fuel line plugs directly in
You will need to remove some clips to extend your C-115 42 pin wiring harness to reach the 5.0 C115 plug, it stretches over okay if you remove enough clips/mounts and re route a little
I also grab the lock cylinders from the donor explorer, so you can install them into your Ranger and have one key for ignition and doors...
Some simple things to know for the basic ranger conversion, otherwise 96-01 5.0 bolts into 98-01 ranger is emissions legain, 02-05 ranger still bolts in can be done if you don't have emissions, basically a bolt in affair. 06+ ranger gets a little more tricky interfacing with the truck but also drivetrain bolts into truck easily

Last edited on Tue Aug 7th, 2018 10:46 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2018 10:50 pm

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I need to add that sometime in early 2000 they went away from the vacuum hubs to real ones LOL I have them on mine stock. I originally heard it was june of 2000 but I heard later that it happened... sooner. Easy to tell, pull a front wheel off if you see a black plastic cap with a little round mesh vent on the end... it is vacuum hubs. If there is a nut... it is the more desired one.

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Posted: Wed Aug 8th, 2018 08:55 am

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410customs wrote:
swap is too easy in your truck
98-01 Ranger is pretty much exactly the same as a 98-01 Explorer until after the drivers doors, then the frames change
The ranger has vacuum hubs, I always delete these, they are problematic. Explorer cv axles, knuckles, unit bearings bolt directly on. Now you have a live front axle, no hubs
buy entire 5.0L explorer donor truck
Install 5.0L drivetrain, from radiator to tailhousing into ranger. There are about 4 wires to deal with on your 2000 3.0 conversion.
Add pats key, ign lock cylnder, module and pcm from 98-01 donor 5.0 truck
Bolt on 4406 t case
fit front d shaft from donor 4.6 F150 or expedition using conversion U joint
Have rear d shaft modified to suit
Have exhaust installed from stock explorer down pipes to a dual in single out muffler, back over tail and out
hookup 4x4 lights
charge AC
Decide if you want to use Explorer seats, console, rear axle, and more.......

Thats the short version
You can sell your 3.0L stuff to help pay for it all if any of it still works well / low miles
Most reliable RBV drivetrain ever = 302 / 4r70w and 1/2 ton t case of your choice

I will cover this in the sport trac conversion thread we have going right now
I have been fabricating anti rotation bar brackets for the snow tracked suzuki samurai
Once this project is finished (few days) we are back on the sport trac......
My front driveshaft is the superlift one with a dual cardan joint to accomodate for the lift. What should I do about that? I have the PATS module, lock cylinder, 2 keys all from the donor. The only thing I don't have from the engine donor is the computer, but I do have one from a different 5.0 explorer. I work at a repair facility that has a Ford IDS scan tool, so they should be able to program that. Also, my truck is already a live axle truck. 2000 was the last year for vacuum hubs, and I have a late build. Did you ever figure out if I can use the stock transfer case motor and wiring on the 4406? Also, how does the transfer case mount to the ranger crossmember?

Last edited on Wed Aug 8th, 2018 08:56 am by ILivermore

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Posted: Wed Aug 8th, 2018 11:07 am

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transfer cases dont mount to a crossmember, they hang off the back of the transmission tailhousing.
The 4r70w bolts to your transmission crossmember just like if it was a V8 explorer

You can likely re use some of your front driveshaft, however it will not work with the 4406 output flange so it will need modified

The PCM will need to be programmed for the PATS key and PATS module, or heck program it to forget PATS all together.

I keep forgetting after 2000 Rangers had no hubs, those comments are for the 98-99 crowd

I am not sure of the 1354 E shift motor will bolt onto a 4406E shift best way to find out is to look up both part numbers see if they are compatible

Your PCM better be the same year as your engine, there are wiring changes sometimes mid year. It can be a real headache trying to piece together a conversion because the wires do move, change colors and location from year to year (96 different from 97.5, 98 went digital signals wiring changed again, 99-01 went returnless fuel) There are lots of mid year changes. As long as your PCM is from similar year you should be able to make it work

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I build custom RBV, specializing in drivetrain conversions, wiring, suspension and complete custom trucks

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Posted: Wed Aug 8th, 2018 11:37 am

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ILivermore
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410customs wrote:
transfer cases dont mount to a crossmember, they hang off the back of the transmission tailhousing.
The 4r70w bolts to your transmission crossmember just like if it was a V8 explorer

You can likely re use some of your front driveshaft, however it will not work with the 4406 output flange so it will need modified

The PCM will need to be programmed for the PATS key and PATS module, or heck program it to forget PATS all together.

I keep forgetting after 2000 Rangers had no hubs, those comments are for the 98-99 crowd

I am not sure of the 1354 E shift motor will bolt onto a 4406E shift best way to find out is to look up both part numbers see if they are compatible

Your PCM better be the same year as your engine, there are wiring changes sometimes mid year. It can be a real headache trying to piece together a conversion because the wires do move, change colors and location from year to year (96 different from 97.5, 98 went digital signals wiring changed again, 99-01 went returnless fuel) There are lots of mid year changes. As long as your PCM is from similar year you should be able to make it work
PCM is the same year. So PATS module, 2 keys, and lock cylinder all came out of the engine donor. What about the rear driveshaft? Any idea what would need to be modified there?

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