1999 Ranger "Gold Dust" - Part - Member's Projects Showcase - Tech Section

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Idahome

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I would dump after the passenger cabin so you do not get gasses inside with the windows down
In most states you are required to run the exhaust past the passenger cabin, for example the back cab wall of a ranger or the rear tailgate of a bronco II/Explorer

My BII has a 3" tailpipe from the muffler back
My 96 Explorer had a 2.5" tailpipe from the muffler back
Aside from that both trucks were near identical drivetrain and exhaust wise.
The Explorer had obviously more power down low....the lack of back pressure from the 3" tail pipe on the B2 caused a noticeable loss of low end torque.
A 2.75" tail pipe would be a nice alternative, not many shops carry 2.75 pipe or the dyes to bend it.
I do, I have 2.5 and 2.75 dyes for my bender
We plan to bend up our own exhaust when we can I try to do everything in house until I cant anymore.

Happy 2020!!!!!!!!!!!

Last edited on Wed Jan 1st, 2020 02:25 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Wed Jan 1st, 2020 05:41 pm

127^th Post

black06xlt
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TheArcticWolf1911 wrote:
You know.....

Since i'm not running cats or the like and therfor those pesky sensors aren't really a big deal for me....

I *could* just have it go out the headers, short section of pipe, muffler, and dump behind the front tire.

(/joke)
Lol stacks out of the hood with rain flappers

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Posted: Wed Jan 1st, 2020 06:35 pm

128^th Post

JAMMAN

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Some of the turbo guys have a tube sticking straight out the right fender just sayin....

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Posted: Wed Jan 1st, 2020 10:37 pm

129^th Post

TheArcticWolf1911
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Yes, Happy 2020, all!

Well, I have time to think about that. I'll probably give more serious thought to it once the engine and all that is seated in.

My friction modifier is finally going to be here tomorrow (Rockauto forgot to pack it in the boxes), and the puller set on Friday, so I can finally move forward. This Friday is also payday, so I'll be able to order more parts.

Speaking of parts, how do you all think a black rollbar would look on my Ranger? Particurally with a set of Hella 500s on it?

I'm looking at one from GoRhino, but unfortunately they only make them to fit styleside Rangers. So I'd have to cut out a section and con a buddy of mine into welding it back together to make it fit.

Other than that, I can see that it will block the 3rd brake light and cargo lamps, so it seems some sort of solution to remedy that will be in order. Not sure just what.

I'm sort of letting my mind wander around the project while I wait.

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Posted: Thu Jan 2nd, 2020 01:28 am

130^th Post

TheArcticWolf1911
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Curious. I plan on ordering parts tomorrow, including brake hardware and a cover.

Before I order these thread adapters, I want to make sure that they're the right size, of course. What's the proper way to measure flare fittings and banjo bolts so I can double check? I'd assume it's the same process for measuring any threaded fastener, but I never assume after having been proven wrong a few times.

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Posted: Thu Jan 2nd, 2020 10:54 am

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Idahome

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Measure the thread size and pitch on the actual flare fitting

Rollbars are pretty sweet if you like them, I do too!!
see if you can find just a plain old mini truck roll bar like a toyota or S10 would use...you don't want a style side (stepside) roll bar they are goofy.

Putting lights on a roll bar is way old tech, with all that light behind the cab it can get interesting at night. Lights behind you will illuminate the roof, side mirrors, hood, glass, and all the dust kicked up at night. Putting a LED bar on top of the windshield IN FRONT of you (the driver) is a much better option, it makes it much better to see at night without the light behind your head (yes even outside the cab)

There are some wicked cool lights you can get these days both LED bar style and round, whatever you decide the goal is to make it yours. Form follows function, so if it functions well it usually turns out looking pretty good too.....

Last edited on Thu Jan 2nd, 2020 10:55 am by 410customs

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Posted: Fri Jan 3rd, 2020 09:50 am

132^nd Post

Idahome

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nevermind I forget goldie is a style side
In that case before you go for the roll bar, take a look at headache racks. In most cases a headache rack is way more useful then a roll bar. The roll bar takes up too much bed space.
A headache rack protects the rear slider window from break ins and from breakage, also you can stack long lumber and other items on top of the headache rack.
Roll bar just sits there and looks cool........lots of form not much function

Last edited on Fri Jan 3rd, 2020 09:50 am by 410customs

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Posted: Sun Jan 5th, 2020 01:27 am

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TheArcticWolf1911
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Well, that board came in today. It works....on 120 volts.

Listing claims it's for 12 volts DC, and it will switch 12VDC, but the board itself operates on 120 to 240.

So, I ordered a different one. I'll just hang onto this one, might be cool for something else down the road. Wasn't expensive, anyway.

I also ordered that girdle cover, some fittings, lines, and a set of power mirrors.

My slidehammer+puller kit came in as well a couple days ago, and that should do the trick. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

Saturday kinda got squandered. Something in my stomach wasn't agreeing with me, and I sorta never got off the couch. Not a big deal, it shouldn't take me all day to get those control arms replaced. Not like we're in a huge hurry here anyway.

Speaking of fittings, for those of us using Mustang calipers, be aware that there are two thread sizes for the 94-04 mustang rear caliper banjo bolts. Diamter is the same, M10. Thread pitch is either 1.00 or 1.50. Stick a thread gauge in there and see what you've got. I happen to have the less popular coarse thread, so I have to change what adapters I was planning on ordering. Glad I did that *before* I ordered.

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Posted: Sun Jan 5th, 2020 01:34 am

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TheArcticWolf1911
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Main idea for the "roll bar" was purely cosmetic reasons. One could say that my brush guard is also mostly cosmetic reasons, too. In reality, I bought the guard as a way to cleanly mount some hellas up front.

I'll be sticking with Hella's for the rollbar, I don't like the look of light bars at all. They absolutely rock for light output, no question. I guess that's a matter of function over form, and I like the retro look.

I considered light pods instead, but if I did that, then I'd have two sets of mismatched lights. I could replace my Hellas, but I'd rather not. With my 130 watt bulbs, they rock. Also from Hella. I do need to work on aiming them more, though. I pretty much bought 'em, stuck 'em on, tested 'em, parked it.

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Posted: Sun Jan 5th, 2020 09:49 am

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Idahome

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smart to check those threads.
A thread checker would be super handy, that's something I never picked up and I could really use. I always end up just comparing bolts or using the checker at the hardware store LOL

There are some wicked good round LED lights these days too, my wife is also a big fan of the round lights on the roof....but I convinced her to go led bar eventually....now we have this wicked wind noise on the FJ that is hard to get rid of, all from the 52" curved LED bar...the old 50" straight bar was even worse! So I need to make a fairing. I do like the look of the old round lights on the roll bar, ever since Marty Mcfly had that black Toyota pickup truck in the garage back to the future.........all my RC cars as a kid were baja based and had roll bars with the round lights, so I understand the allure!!

Last edited on Sun Jan 5th, 2020 09:52 am by 410customs

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Posted: Sun Jan 5th, 2020 10:21 am

136^th Post

Mike69

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Back in the 80's & 90's I had a 1985 GMC short bed stepside 4WD pick up that I purchased from the new car dealership I was working at back then & I installed a roll bar in the bed & had 2 of the big KC spot lights mounted on the roll bar, they would really light up the road.

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Posted: Wed Jan 8th, 2020 02:15 am

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TheArcticWolf1911
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Hey guys, I have good news that I would like to share with you all.

Today, I was informed that I was promoted from Quality Auditor to Process Technician, and with it comes a boost in pay. This is effective Monday.

That said, while I will have more to put towards the project, I have to stop buying things for the next few checks. With the job comes a need for more than just a pen and a calculator. That means a tool box and plenty of tools to load it down with. Basic stuff, the most special being a torque wrench.

Although funds will have to be diverted for a short time, I still have plenty of parts on the way and plenty of things to do with what I already have, so the progress won't slow down too much.

I still have to plum the rear end for brake lines, replace the clutch packs in the diff, add fluid and the new cover, replace the rear suspension bushings, replace the front lower control arms, test the mirrors and run new wires for those, and finally rid myself of that water leak in the dash. And, while it's out, now is the time to do whatever it takes to seal it up.

Last edited on Wed Jan 8th, 2020 02:15 am by TheArcticWolf1911

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Posted: Wed Jan 8th, 2020 07:21 am

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Arthur
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Congrats on the promotion!

There are worse thing to "have" to buy than tools

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Posted: Wed Jan 8th, 2020 08:44 am

139^th Post

Idahome

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Nice! Congrats!
What does a process technician process? Just curious what field this is in...

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Posted: Wed Jan 8th, 2020 01:45 pm

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TheArcticWolf1911
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I work in the plastics industry. Process Technician (often shortened to just 'tech') pulls and sets molds (large blocks+plates of steel that are used to make the parts), initially loads the hopper with the proper resin, then starts the machine running. Once it's running and producing parts, the tech makes sure it's putting out good parts and if it should wander off spec, pull it back into spec. Generally speaking, of course.

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Posted: Thu Jan 9th, 2020 09:36 am

141^st Post

Idahome

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/off topic

wow that's cool
Whats the neatest plastic part you have seen molded?

I always love to hear about other peoples jobs, I have been riding on and designing elevators since I was 12, mostly on the computer side of things very little in the field stuff...so I was always jealous of the guys who actually get to chop/cut/weld the lifts in place....and they are always like jealous of my desk job hahahahaha
I go home from my computer job and work in the shop
They go home from their shop job and work on the computer
grass always greener

Last edited on Thu Jan 9th, 2020 09:37 am by 410customs

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Posted: Fri Jan 10th, 2020 04:53 pm

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TheArcticWolf1911
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It's hard to pick what the most interesting one is. Most of the parts we make are functional pieces, something the average end user will never see. That said, they're usually pretty boring to look at and usually don't do anything too interesting.

That said, I have a collection of different parts (nowhere near everything we've made). I should lay them out sometime and take a photo.

Anyway, more parts came in. I have power mirrors, steel brake lines and adapter fittings, girdle cover w/ gasket. Oh, and I bought more gear oil so now I have something to fill it with.

The cover is still in it's packaging, but looks nice. I can't wait to bolt it up. The adapter fittings all fit up nice, although I learned that the threads in the calipers I bought were *horribly* machined. Tehy would thread in, but you need more than finger pressure. Only on one side, however. Other side went right in. Go figure.

The brake lines feel oddly flimsy, but I've also never handled steel braided brake lines. Maybe I was expecting something beefier than what is reality. I remember expecting 5.56 to be bigger than what it turned out to be when I opened my first box of the stuff.

That said, they are long enough. I opted to go with a set that have right angle fittings on one end for the calipers. 36" is plenty long, realistically speaking 34" might have been a better choice. That said, I'm OK with the extra length. Will just need some creative routing. Otherwise, it should go together OK. I'll get the clutches in, cover on, and fill 'er up with some of that smelly gear oil and she'll be ready to plunk on underneath the Ranger.

....after the suspension gets worked over.

There's a lot going on at once!

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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.

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Posted: Sat Jan 11th, 2020 09:40 am

143^rd Post

Idahome

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Have you guys ever made elevator parts? LOL

The steel braiding is over a rubber line to keep it from ballooning up or deforming, so it holds its shape, they are still rubber lines inside.

Keep it up! The world is watching!

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Posted: Sat Jan 11th, 2020 12:01 pm

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Scrambler82
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A motor question... the Mountaineer and the Explorer is the same and the engines are the same and the engine front end accessories are the same... right !

My question is, doesn't the other vehicles with 5.0LW, have a different front accessory setup, don't they stick out further ?

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Posted: Sat Jan 11th, 2020 12:17 pm

145^th Post

Idahome

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yes 96-01 explorers use a gt40 full roller 302 with gt40 intakes
When they shoehorned the 5.0 into the gen II explorer chassis (that was designed for the 60 degree v6)
they used some cool parts
There are some changes from 96-97.5 to 97.5-98 and then in 99-01 to the front dress, oil pan, manifolds, etc

Ford built block hugger exhaust manifolds, used a unique to the explorer serpentine front dress with a high volume water pump, metal power steering pump, and 135 amp alternator....this serpentine system is far superior to the earlier F150 and mustang front dress, which do indeed stick out further, use the noisy PS pump, 90 amp alternator and a huge timing cover and water pump
The explorer also uses a 28oz imbalance crank damper and with dis ignition crank and cam sensors.....
This is all unique to the explorer 96-01

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Posted: Sun Jan 12th, 2020 10:35 pm

146^th Post

TheArcticWolf1911
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Good news, I have the lower control arms installed. Wasn't too difficult.

That said, you do not necessarily need a puller. I found another way to accomplish the same thing. Not that mine worked anyway. Depending on how you look at it, the screw was too short or the arms were too long, end result being you run out of travel before tension is applied.

Solution? Floor jack. Let it press against the torsion key and use a crowbar to jab at that retaining block and knock 'er out. Done deal, no fuss. Tomorrow after work, I change the bearings, seals, clutches, and the cover on the diff to get it ready to pop under the Ranger, which means that bed is comin' off.

I also have all my tools for my new position! Training starts tomorrow morning.

In the meantime, the horsepower bug has bitten me. I'd like to get 'er up as close to 300 as I can, keeping it N/A. The complications that superchargers and turbochargers add is a headache I don't want to deal with.

I'm thinking a stroker kit and new camshaft, and bigger throttle body.

What say y'all?

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Posted: Mon Jan 13th, 2020 08:25 am

147^th Post

Idahome

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headers camshaft good exhaust and a tune will get you close to 300, like 280+
After that aluminum heads will unleash the rest of the NA power
If you go with a stroker kit, 306, 331, 347 more NA power is possible
The TMH are good to about 400 hp some say 420 although anyone with those power numbers should consider something other then the TMH.....something with larger tubes
I installed a 370 hp 302 (370 crank HP) into a 84 ranger even with stock injectors and no computer tune that truck gets up and goes
I think you would be happy with just a camshaft and the headers...then a good tune and some more bolt on's, usually enough for most people in a daily driven Ranger.
(The aluminum heads are a big power adder after/during the cam and headers)

Last edited on Mon Jan 13th, 2020 08:55 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Mon Jan 13th, 2020 12:11 pm

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black06xlt
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Quick way to horsepower on a ford is have it tuned for the parts you use. Sure you can throw a set of heads intake throttle body cam headers all the stuff you want. But without having tuned properly you might as well leave it stock. All the speed parts in the world are useless without a good tune allowing all the parts to work efficiently together. I just built a 98 mustang with a 4.6 sohc. Base dyno pull in stock trim the car made 196 hp to the ground. After doing a full pi swap no tune the car made 255 to the ground. Then after a few setups with a tuner the car made 303 hp to the ground. And it's all stock except the 75mm sr performance throttle body and upper intake. The pi swap is just stock ford parts heads cams and lower intake found on 1999 and newer 4.6 sohc engines. Obviously your doing a push rod 5.0. But the principle is the same.

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Posted: Sat Jan 18th, 2020 07:06 pm

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TheArcticWolf1911
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Sounds like a tune is a must on this one. Fair enough, I don't mind.

I do hope those parts give the 5.0 the room it needs to stretch it's legs, so to speak. I'm going to do some poking around and seeing what all is available for the explorer. Not much, certainly not in comparison to the Mustang.

Now, that brings something to mind.

Everyone who does these uses the explorer as their donor, in one form or another. Of course, those who want to increase what the 5.0 can do runs into the issue that not all mustang parts will work, for one reason or another.

Which makes me wonder. Why not use the 5.0 from a Mustang? I realize that may make things more difficult, getting it to work with what's in the Ranger, but that would open up the ability to use so many parts.

That said, I'm not familiar with just what year Mustangs used the 5.0

If older than 96, that may make things spin in a direction I wasn't prepared for.

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Posted: Sun Jan 19th, 2020 09:33 am

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Idahome

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stang had the 5.0 until 95
still had a distributor and the old TFI ignition
One of the best things about the Explorer 5.0 is the distributorless waste spark coil pack ignition and the OBD2 computer
Way better tuning options available with the OBD2 computer IMO
Putting a distributor in an Explorer engine is like working backwards
Explorer also received the gt40 heads and intakes, something mustangs wish they had from the factory
Now with that said I am a fan of all pushrod small block Fords, however you get one under your hood, is fine with me, just get one! LOL

Last edited on Sun Jan 19th, 2020 09:34 am by 410customs

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