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410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - cu       #: 1712
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 Posted: Fri Apr 7th, 2023 10:25 am
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My previous 2000 Ranger had the 60/40 split bench seat & the seat back from on the drivers side broke, I found a 98-2000 Explorer Sport in a JY & purchased the drivers seat & shorty console & bolted them in the Ranger. I only had to drill 4 holes in the floor for the console mount, & there are already 4 dimples in the floor where to drill the holes. Very easy to swap.



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Hope everyone is enjoying the holiday!!!


"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

All right here we go..... the seats

We all know I installed the drivers seat, 2014 Ford Edge 6 way power w heat
chopped up some ranger seat rails for the mounting "feet" and integrated them into the base of the 14 "edge" seat

I retained all 6 way power functions the result was a seat that sat too high off the floor for a ranger cab
It has been bugging me ever since
So when it came time to install the passenger seat I had some ideas
It turns out, they worked like a charm
I was able to install the seat on the ranger manual slider rails, and lower the seat significantly vs the driver side
This lead to a total re visit of the drivers seat install.........
Battle on

First up....the passenger side



Starting with a factory ranger manual slider. Base
This would get heavily modified


Donor rails Came from a 98-2000 ranger 60/40 front bench

Slider rails were shaved down and new mounts were added so they work in conjunction with the power functions of the 14 edge seat.
Sliding forward and back is done like a factory ranger seat, with the manual slider bar, spring assist.
The ranger base rails were mounted off center under the seat now, this allowed me to drop the seat another 1.5-2" vs previous power forward and back setup
The results are awesome

During fab and mock up
All 4 factory bolt holes are retained
Rails were modified heavily (lots of cutting, mount fab, trial and error, fit and chop cut weld..... until we have a bolt in seat fits and functions like factory



Manual slider bar just like stock ranger




down low and back



Lots of adjustability now
Power recline, power lumbar support, power front tilt and power rear tilt were retained.
Heated base and back was also retained
Now wired in! I am in the process of mounting switches and relays







way lower then drivers side






Time to re visit the drivers seat
The drivers seat was then also mounted on a manual slider, lowered an additional 2" and set back a bit. I documented that full build
The drivers was much more involved then the passenger side

While the seats were in and out I also mounted the console shifter. Shifter park shift interlock, illumination and OD cancel buttons were final wired
The Holley PCM final mounting location was also decided. I built a weather tight floor plate with wiring and shift cable pass through

2008 Mercury mariner center console was fabricated to fit our ranger and between the seats.

Mounts were created, console, shifter Holley and all wiring are in. wait until you see how this turned out!
I added custom touches along the way, of course

Next up the drivers seat re do



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 Posted: Sun May 28th, 2023 03:43 pm
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"


okay I documented the whole build of the drivers seat, so there are alot of pictures.

There was ALOT of trial and error, putting the seat in taking it back out etc etc to get this right!
End result is seat is centered, as far down as possible, as far back as possible, retains 4 of the "6 way power" functions, the seat is mounted to factory manual slider for forward and back movement. Factory heat is retained and wired up, also the lumbar support and power recline backrest all function like a factory seat.

The first attempt had the seat sitting too high in the cab
The 2014 Edge power "rails" had to go

So first I needed donor parts, 2000 Ranger 60/40 bench, drivers sliders were removed











Now the factory rails get “shaved” with a grinder.
Basically the only thing I keep is the slider and the slider actuator rod and all 4 “feet”

More parts removed


Keep all hardware and the spring for later use

This is the 2014 edge power seat rail assembly from my first attempt. The structure is too tall and too wide for our ranger floor pans


Time to get to grinding. I stocked up on cutoff wheels for this job

Plasma cutter could work as well but I did not want all the slag cleanup later

This is the passenger seat, it has been completed already. We have a similar goal for the drivers seat here




okay I documented the whole build of the drivers seat, so there are alot of pictures.
There was ALOT of trial and error, putting the seat in taking it back out etc etc to get this right!
End result is seat is centered, as far down as possible, as far back as possible, retains 4 of the "6 way power" functions, the seat is mounted to factory manual slider for forward and back movement. Factory heat is retained and wired up, also the lumbar support and power recline backrest all function like a factory seat.

The first attempt had the seat sitting too high in the cab
The 2014 Edge power "rails" had to go

So first I needed donor parts, 2000 Ranger 60/40 bench, drivers sliders were removed











Now the factory rails get “shaved” with a grinder.
Basically the only thing I keep is the slider and the slider actuator rod and all 4 “feet”

More parts removed


Keep all hardware and the spring for later use

This is the 2014 edge power seat rail assembly from my first attempt. The structure is too tall and too wide for our ranger floor pans


Time to get to grinding. I stocked up on cutoff wheels for this job

Plasma cutter could work as well but I did not want all the slag cleanup later

This is the passenger seat, it has been completed already. We have a similar goal for the drivers seat here





On the bottom of the 14 edge seats there are 4 mounting studs where the pivots take place for the front and rear “height” motors. These 4 studs will be the mounting locations for our new ranger manual slider rails
Previously the seat was mounted on top of the power sliders. My idea to lower the seats was to mount the manual slider rails off to the sides.
It works!
But not without some headaches

Pass seat seen here you can see the slider rails and how they are
Mounted.



So first up I need to press the little studs out of the seat base so they can be flipped around and welded to the ranger sliders







Drivers seat no rails no studs ready for new parts. Well kinda



So first up I need to press the little studs out of the seat base so they can be flipped around and welded to the ranger sliders







Drivers seat no rails no studs ready for new parts. Well kinda



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 Posted: Sun May 28th, 2023 03:49 pm
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"


So now we need to finish prepping the ranger slider rails



Most everything shaved off the top


Grinder got a nice workout all week



Houston we have a problem. The inner slider (console side) needs to go right where this front height motor exists. Crap!!
Huge roadblock
Many hours later my brain hurts but I had another idea. After much measuring and calculations I decided I could relocate this
Motor to the middle out of my way


I cut the motor off at its
Mount. I would Re use this part of the mount. I also had to chop off the strong arm where it attaches in order to rotate the front pivot bar




The motor and it's mounts

Now I had to figure out how to re mount it in the middle of the seat. I would have to create a new crossmember




Add mount and clearance for motor angle
Welded to the old mount and both crossbars



Braced for strength. The strong arm pivot needed re located on its pivot bar (axle) so I made a fixture to retain strength








Paint over the welds and mount the motor. Works like a champ!



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 Posted: Sun May 28th, 2023 03:53 pm
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"


now to fabricate and mount the new manual sliders

This is where the inner rail needs to live, exactly where our old motor was.




Plenty of clearance now


Inner rail getting final prep



This is how the mounting studs will go, prepped and clean ready for welding


Welded 1/2” at time to avoid overheat and warping of the rails


All 4 studs mounted and measurements clearance checked



The neat part is the rails even though they are off to the sides and offset from center of the seat they are still correct distance apart for the factory slider activator bar!!





Rails final welded and ready



This is how it fits, plenty of room for motor and rails. However the activator bar hits one of our front pivots and the seat still sits way too high




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 Posted: Sun May 28th, 2023 03:59 pm
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"


not done yet!! still have some clearance issues, seat is now 2" off center and sits 1.5" too high. Getting closer



Now this next part I have actually done a few times putting explorers seats into rangers I often have to remove 1.5” from the height of the ranger sliders

Bolt Holes off center




Time to chop 1.5” out of all 4 feet

I use marks to keep things lined up once 1.5” of material is removed






New dropped feet and new bolt mount tabs being fabbed, tack welded and checked for alignment and fit



Chopping the other rail




The pieces that were cut out are used to re enforce each mount




Final test fit, mounting holes lined up to center seat and retain factory
Mounting locations





Test fit time!


Happy! Shhhhhh pretend you did not see the console and shifter yet

Seat removed again for final clearancing/ paint/ weld etx



Problem area



My brain came up with another solution. I flattened the round bar in the press at the correct location and re bent for clearance. Then I used two small sections of angle iron to zig zag for
Clearance



It   worked!!

Now seat removed again for final paint, clean, lube, and wiring




Added 8 pin connectors for both seats. Wired new power feeds for seat power and seat heat direct from fuse box under hood. Also included are seat buckle switch wires

 




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 Posted: Sun May 28th, 2023 04:05 pm
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"



Final prep and paint complete the drivers seat is nearly done!! 












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 Posted: Sun May 28th, 2023 04:06 pm
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"


that is the memory seat module it also has the power and heat functions travel through it so I had to retain it on the drivers side. The 14 edge donor came with 6 way power heated seats, drivers memory

If it was a Lincoln mdx they had 10 way power climate seats, still a very Similar seat.
These seats are can bus

I used a series of relays on this truck for the heated backs and butts
Simple push button heat is on until you turn it off.

My 97 f350 has Lincoln heated and cooled seats, in that's truck I used relays and 7 pole switches to reverse polarity for the heat and cool functions.
We could also use the stand alone seat climate control modules from say an Escape or superduty here to control the seats.

In the seat donor “edge” the dash mounted hvac controls also controlled the seat heat and I believe the memory seat switch also in the dash or door panel.. those parts I do not have.

With just heated pads I kept this truck simple. Button on = heat. No timer no low and high settings.. these could be added later. I researched the heck out of this
There are some utv seat heater kits cheap enough with high and low settings, some have 6 way heat adjustment, but nothing with a timer or thermostat

I am thrilled to have two working seats like we intended the manual sliders are better anyways otherwise you gotta sit there and wait for it to move to get in the back. I had power sliders in my bii and eventually converted back to manual lol

Next I will cover all the wiring I have done for the seats as well as the console install , shifter, and Holley pcm wire and mounting
I'm very pleased with how this came out, really updated the older ranger interior and it's super comfortable



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THANK YOU MHOWARD FOR INSPIRING THIS MOD AND SHARING YOUR INFORMATION ❤❤❤
Here is the link to that post: https://ford-rangers.com/forum58/1802-1.html


"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

While the seats were being fabbed I was also working on the center console. I had the seats mocked up and at first I was like "no way will this console fit between them....then I started to fiddle with it and turns out it would work! It is tight but it works!!"

How? Lets recap

The console comes from a 2008 Mariner, it is really a neat piece!! Now that I made it fit I really like the way this turned out

So first of all the shifter from 08 Escape has already been installed. These consoles and shifters are almost a foot tall. A ranger console is only 7" tall (off the floor) at the shifter hump, so the mariner console needed to be shaved down quite a bit. The escape shifter already had 5" of plastic removed chopped down as far as I could take it without getting into the mechanicals of the shift mechanism

The shifter can use the stock 5.0 or 4.0 shift cable with a few modifications. I had a shift cable in the shop from a E350 van E4od that ended up working out perfectly. I had to make a metal bracket on the transmission side to hold things in place.

The Escape shifter includes wiring for the OD off button (two wires) shifter illumination (green wires) and the brake pedal / park shift interlock.
All of these were wired using stock wiring and connectors from the ranger steering column. Wires were run behind the stereo and into the console, to the shifter,. A 8 pin plug was added so the shifter can easily be removed if needed.

Once the shifter had its height reduced, the shift cable was sorted out and the wiring hooked up it was time to place the console. Measurements were taken, cardboard template of the floor was made and the console was shaved down to match the new shifter height, around 7"





Bye bye plastic bits






Two wooden blocks were fabricated and screwed through the ranger metal floor, one in the far back and one just in front of the shifter. These will mount the console. The shifter luckily mounts to the console, which makes it easy to find the correct placement. The console is very very strong when mounted with 6 screws. This shifter is mounted with 2 screws into the console and two screws into the front wood support.



Getting closer!

Once mock up was complete I had to make a wiring pass through for all the Holley wiring to come up through the floor. The shifter cable also goes through the new modified floor plate. Rubber boots were used to make things weather tight. The holley PCM is going to live under the front of the console, I spent much time finding the perfect location for all of the things that need to live in the console and the dash.



Here is where the shifter mounts to console w two screws from the side, thank goodness sometimes things go our way




Start the wiring pass through made from stock ranger floor plate



Location marked and pilot holes drilled



Good start



I did not get any pictures of the wiring pass through final, basically a rubber boot was used to go around the wiring bundle and through the floor it is held right to the cables with zip ties and the holes were finished off with silicon so no noise/ dirt or water can find it's way through

Now time to mount the Holley pcm
I really wanted to put it in a location where the diagnostics leds could be seen through the console. So that is what I did


This is where the Holley will live, in front of the shifter above the restraints control module. Plenty of room for the bundle of wires and also for airflow around the pcm



I made a simple metal bracket to pickup the front mount of the Holley using one of the mounting screws for the restraints module as the base



The rear of the Holley is held tight to the console with zip ties

Last edited on Sun May 28th, 2023 04:54 pm by Eddie Money



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"


Now to make the lights visible I had two options, cut a slot or drill 8 holes so some testing was in order











Holes look better then the slot so I measured and templates and measured some more. The 8 holes have to be close to perfect for this to work. Only get one shot to drill into the console here. Holes were drilled cleaned up with file and razor blade


Will it work? Would be almost two weeks before I would find out

Can see mounting blocks and rough edges console still in mock up phase



Leds are visible I hoped
Like heck this would turn out
One of my favorite mods of all time (25+ years)


The Mariner console also has an access panel on the passenger side. Lucky for us this made it so the Holley fuses and relay can be accessed without taking the console apart. This panel was missing from our eBay/ junk yard console so I had to order it will be here soon. It will get trimmed to fit and the whole area was finished and trimmed out later




Cardboard templates being made for transition from ranger dash to Mariner console



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

So now with the console, shifter, pcm, and seats sorted out it's was time to install mountain of electronics into this dash/ interior



Pumpkin double din head unit with navigation
360 degree Birds Eye camera system
Heated seats switches and wiring
Arb compressor and locker switches
Usb ports for dash access for camera system and stereo memory storage
Turn signal and heated side mirrors
Finishing the instrument cluster and more

So before I go to
Much further I needed to run some power into the interior for the seats and console. If you remember from earlier in the build we had some power feed wires left inside the under hood fuse box. I used 3 of the factory fuse spots here and their respective wires. 1
40 amp fuse for seat power, 1 40
Amp fuse for seat heaters and 1 30
Amp fuse for accessory battery constant power. Wires were run through the firewall pass through grommet and into the console/ dash. Fuses were put back in these three spots












Finding the perfect spot for all of this stuff and installing it custom is what I pride myself on, since I was 15 I have been installing stereos and electrics.

Last edited on Sun May 28th, 2023 05:28 pm by Eddie Money



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

allright so when I left off we had finally installed the drivers seat
Now we need to see how the console went together
but first some exterior progress

just FYI the front bumper has also been to paint and is getting installed along with its winch and lights
Some different options for driving lights were considered before finally settling











all bumper bits were cleaned, Primed, and painted, then fit, then final coat




I was looking at running two lights in the hole a 5" round and 3" round, I wanted a driving light at fog...... the hole in the bumper is an odd shape to fit lights into. Then we tried a single 8" led bar and everyone outvoted me......so the single 8" bar is what we are going with. The good news is I get to keep all the cool other lights for our own rigs. These are cheapo's not some $400 Rigid leds but $29 china knock offs







still plenty of room on top for additional forward facing driving lights if wanted later

these little 8" bars have fogs, driving and side shooter leds should be pretty bright FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY> We will add some actual fog lights down lower that can be used on the street







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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"


interior/electronics and center console


What a mess!
Looking at options for Lowrance offroad GPS



shifter is mocked up, head unit wiring complete, gps and wifi antenna run to dash, early stages of center console install and time for the camera system

For the console shifter I needed some wires. I needed illumination (for the shift indicator letters), two wires for the overdrive cancel button, and two wires for the park shift interlock (press foot on brake can take out of park)



illumination wire is from headlight main switch




park interlock and od button come from the old steering column shifter
using 2007 ranger wiring book and 2008 escape wiring info for the console shifter

wires run and a plug was added so the shifter can be serviced/removed



white wire feeds park relay, 2007 does not have, it is there if I find a need for it
The shifter was easy to align with the console even after shaving 5" off the bottom of it because two of the mounting holes are to the console



I added door edge trim to finish the plastic cut edges
console is mounted to two 7.5" wide pieces of 2x2 treated lumber. Wood was screwed through the floor
front of shifter is supported and held down by the same piece of wood that holds front of console to floor
Console is very stout once all screwed down

LOTS of wiring to do inside console, it is the perfect place to stuff some of these things
The Holley PCM was CARFEFULLY lined up to the console, and those 8 LED holes were drilled









test fitting the top /shifter bezel




mariner console has this cool pop out mount for the small tray and big bucket. You can mount this little tray in 3 different spots!







You can even hang the "big bucket" from the console on the back or side to act like a trash can, drink cooler? Handy







the lid looks like it holds kleenex
there is also a ton of room inside the center cubby
The rear has another small cubby down low and a 12V power port, which I have powered.




more coming later I have to go work in the shop!!

wait until you see how this turned out...........



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"





coming together









Here you can see final power and plugs were run for the seats
red wires in the console are from the under hood power dist box fuses we just added. 40amp for seat heat, 40 amp for seat power, and a 30 amp for accessory power to power the Lowrance, camera system, and more




the seats got the other end of the plugs, so they can easily be removed











speaking of wiring time to install the head unit, some switches, radio bezel and heated seats




radio is a double din, the usual trimming is required. I made it strong with some metal brackets to hold it tight to the center bezel






It fit! Now time to convert one of the 12V sockets to usb ports with voltage gage












Now I know where I want to put the ARB compressor and locker switches, as well as the driving light switch and a couple more USB ports
inside the stock Ranger lower pocket/cubby thing it is the perfect spot!

So I had to modify it to suit, again with ABS plastic


So I am adding two USB ports here because one is for stereo memory / access and the other is for the camera system memory/storage

I purchased a two USB Port receptacle on Amazon. It came with a nice solid 90 degree bracket/mount. I used it as the support for my plastic switch face. I used some scrap plastic screwed to the sides to make it so the switch faceplate slides in, allowing this to be taken apart and modified easily.











I cut the hole for two switches on both sides and used a blank I had in the shop, easy to add another switch if needed later



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"


I used rivets to hold things together, that way underneath there is nothing sharp sticking down into the new center console tray area




here is the whole cubby assembled and ready for install
Of course to install it actually has to be taken apart one more time







Jump drive for camera system installed
Cubby in center radio bezel in

Can see the infrared receiver for the camera system remote. This will get glued in place here with double sided tape




Next is the camera system
This sucker is awesome, but also has alot of wires!! 4 camera feeds..........
I found the perfect spot to mount it, in the dash, between the airbag and radio
But first it had to be wired in and 4 cameras installed




getting wired




Now I'm still getting to the heated seat wiring and now to the camera install
2 of the cameras go in the side view mirrors
the side views also are getting heated glass and turn signal glass
This product for 06-11 rangers (and some of our explorers) is from Muth mirror systems......they are awesome. I have had a good experience working with these guys after I broke one of the mirrors.......let me explain 

 I will be adding heated and signal mirrors to a few of our vehicles after this. My wifes FJ andour huge Excursion could both also benefit from one of these camera systems



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 Posted: Sun May 28th, 2023 06:10 pm
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Eddie Money
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"


Okay so unboxing the Muth mirror system

This is what the back of the glass looks like, you can see the plastic mount, the turn indicator and the heater pad
Also we ordered the heater kit which comes with the wiring switch and controller for the heated glass
Installation is a little tricky but nothing most seasoned installers cannot handle
The hardest part is feeding the wired through the mirror and then through the door to the dash.
Rangers are not too terrible, the boot is easy enough to pull wires through with a piece of steel wire
pull one wire through, then connect the next, pull it through, continue until they are all done

Turn signal has a power and ground
Heater pad has a power and ground
I also added a camera to each mirror, the camera has a 1/8" thick round cable







hard to see but there is a arrow in the glass for turn indicator




I removed the factory mirrors from the truck, easier to work on



Use A screwdriver to pop the factory glass out, its rather simple really. I used a little heat in the middle of the glass to help the mount release from the mirror

passenger mirror went smoothly
So I decided to take pics as I did the drivers mirror
Problem



The MUTH drivers mirror glass does not match our truck
See the inside of the mirror is round, well the MUTH Mirror mount is rectangle
Does not fit
So after running the wires and mounting the camera I decided to try and remove the Muth mount and install a piece from the factory glass
I used heat, gently, almost had the muth mount free when the glass snapped.....
Oh well it didn't fit anyway have to take some risks
contacted Muth, very very polite lady called me personally and handled things. New glass is on its way with correct mount.
I paid for the new glass $120! Ouch......

so lets install some side cameras and a bunch of wiring shall we


 pass side done




Running all of the wires through mirror and out the mount






drill hole for camera and grommet










running wires through mirror w small piece of wire to get first one started


camera lead pulled through




pull wire made it through the boot






now into the door boot and finally under the dash. Door panels are off and the door speakers were removed


each mirror has ground wires attached to factory ground spots at drivers and pass kick panels





all camera wiring almost run



foam pads added to backside of the metal here, the camera head unit slides right up in here, secured with zip ties




grounds connected, all wires run through dash and loomed to protect from metal edges
All dash wiring tied up and final install
Now time to find a location for heated mirror switch



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2007 Sport 4door 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 Ranger
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 Posted: Sun May 28th, 2023 06:21 pm
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Eddie Money
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

The turn signal + wires were fed to the multifunction switch where I tapped into the left and right turn signal wires

The heater wires were run to the drivers side of the dash just next to the radio bezel, perfect spot to mount heater relay/ controller

Lets test the turn signals



I almost forgot the CAMERA System has a shock sensor
This way if you are away from vehicle and it gets bumped the system records whatever is happening
Shock sensor has a sensitivity adjuster wheel





Mounted here for easy access



Now I wanted to put the interior back together so I could find the good spot for heated mirror switch




One more thing to wire up first
the heated seat switches and relays
Power wires from fuse box and to seats already run to the center console (red)




I ordered some nice billet pushbuttons and some pre wired and fused relays



everything for the seat heaters wired, will be mounted in the console here













switch location and mounting










now put it all together final mock up (before paint)
and I can select spot for heated mirror switch, I wanted it to make sense

interior going together all wiring finalized and tucked in
Can see the turn signal connections at the multifunction switch plug and also the heated mirror controller zip tied to metal support on the right
Plenty of airflow around that relay
All wires from everything I have run protected from sharp edges, bundled and tied in place

Also the blue masking tape, I Identified each power wire and system so future mechanics, the trucks owner, etc can more easily troubleshoot













Found my spot for the heated mirror system controller, you hit the toggle button it comes on for 10 minutes then shuts off until you reset the toggle
Neat!




Not an easy fit to put switch here but I was determined



Had to be placed perfectly so the back of switch goes into the square access hole in the metal
The mirror mounting stud had to be shortened to allow room for back of switch and wires




wont push back far enough yet


Had to remove and shorten the one bolt...

Last edited on Sun May 28th, 2023 10:17 pm by Eddie Money



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2007 Sport 4door 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 Ranger
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 Posted: Sun May 28th, 2023 06:32 pm
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Eddie Money
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"



Shortend the one bolt and put it back into the mirror mounting plate...



Choosing this location I had to run the 3 switch wires back through the door boot from the dash back to the mirror spot! 3 more wires! Hahaha worth it






BOOM!!! Im happy


CHECK out these results from all this planning and install work









SICK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Holley led's came out better then I had expected.......can see them ghostly off to the side of your leg or really bright from head on

I have some video of this setup to post
I took some risks on this and it paid off!!

Last edited on Sun May 28th, 2023 10:20 pm by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Sun May 28th, 2023 06:35 pm
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Eddie Money
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"


If you think that looks good checkout these pics


My bronco is in the shop for some spring maintenance after another long winter
So while I had my wheels and tires off we did some test fitting

My wheels are 15 year old moto metal 17x9 with 7 year old Goodyear duratracs, 315 70 17
We built this blue ranger with 35's in mind.
They fit soooooo well!!



















Wheelbase has been extended for sure

I will measure
I will be adding 1” of lift to rear end next (Chevy lift shackles and possible block to adjust final height)

Some trimming would likely be needed in the rear.
If we were keeping the factory flares 

Tire coverage will take some deep thought

Wheels and tire shopping is taking place
Sorry truck is a little dusty
I will DRIVE it outside and wash it soon



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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2024 08:26 pm
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Eddie Money
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I am back after a long hiatus.  A lot has happened since I last updated this thread. I hope you guys are in the mood to do some reading. Lots of pictures too.

"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

The truck will be highly protected from any sort of tampering or theft  have a really nice alarm system going in

So this truck was almost done and ready for testing and delivery well that was delayed a bit because we have more to do!!!

This should all come together this month and then finally we can get Eddie his truck back. He has a nice YouTube channel going now automotive related this truck will be one of the main features.

I have some sick headlights to install on this bad boy, I will get some pics and details of that.
The big update here is the final round of parts have been ordered and are starting to arrive
First I will give you a little teaser
The tires have arrived

Oh baby I'm so gonna need a set of these for my own rig!

Lots and lots of thought and research went into choosing the right wheel and tire combo here










Toyo latest offering for aggressive at is the open country trail r/t
Made in USA
315 70 17 is a 34.5 rolling diameter with 8 ply sidewall load range c
Absolutely perfect for a lifted / built ranger. If you order 35x12.5 you get a 10 ply sidewall but the 315 uses the 8, both sizes are same 34.5”'rolling diameter

Also picked up a rim clamp tire machine for the shop after wanting one for years. So now we do our own mounting

More parts coming!!

Last edited on Mon Jun 3rd, 2024 08:26 pm by Eddie Money



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"
Season!!

 
























Some teaser pics she's outside dust blown off and 35's mounted first time



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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2024 08:35 pm
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Eddie Money
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"
This is a Mid travel kit plus 2.5” per side or 5” wider then a stock ranger up front


I am planning to bring the rear up at least 1/2” and the front 1.5”.
With the winch mounted on the front bumper it is no shock she is sitting just a tad low!
Tire clearance will be the next mod well one of them







As you can see the lower control arms are near flat right now 1.5” will only help





Working on rear shocks rear shackles rear hitch rear bumper rear camera
Replace side mirror drivers side glass
Install hood and button up under hood wiring
Address tire clearance
And lots more

Last edited on Tue Jun 4th, 2024 12:55 am by Eddie Money



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2007 Sport 4door 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 Ranger
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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2024 08:38 pm
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Eddie Money
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"
Some spacers in the rear will help even things up
My bronco ii is about 4” wider up front then in the rear and it has been that way for 20+ years the extra width up front really handles the corners and dips/whoops
The additional width up front was never a concern for me, like a snowmobile or slingshot, they handle awesome..
The big tube 8.8 is strong enough to handle some good wheel spacers that would help with the stance. Tire coverage and traction are the main concerns now 
Big update coming for this truck, lots
Of cool new parts are here or on their way then it will be front and center for the final push



We struck a deal I'm keeping the ballistic wheels and these new methods showed up for Eddie's rig


Last edited on Tue Jun 4th, 2024 12:57 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2024 08:40 pm
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"
Shop is firing on all cylinders
Here we go






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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2024 08:44 pm
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Eddie Money
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

We love pictures 😁

















Teasers

Last edited on Mon Jun 3rd, 2024 08:45 pm by Eddie Money



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