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2002 Edge - Manual - 2WD Snow Truck...       #: 105
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 Posted: Wed Jan 10th, 2018 12:04 am
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MaDMaXX

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Look what just turned up on my doorstep :frd


Thanks, black06xlt.




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 Posted: Wed Jan 10th, 2018 08:38 am
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mhoward
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Hmmm... a late Christmas present to yourself? Nice tails... look like new!



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 Posted: Wed Jan 10th, 2018 07:23 pm
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RiggerWings
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MaDMaXX wrote: 
 
I can't remember exactly when the pre-cats were introduced, i think maybe 2001 model year - find someone here that has a 2000, they should confirm no pre cats (you can see one of them very clearly underneath) and you should be able to buy the down pipes for that year without them.

Do you think the downpipe from an OHV (2000 and earlier) will fit the SOHC directly?  I have no idea if their exhausts we identical or if the headers exited the same. 

I'd love to lose some of that restriction as well as weight. I still have my stock muffler (for now) so sound isn't an issue, even if it is a bit louder. 



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 Posted: Wed Jan 10th, 2018 07:27 pm
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MaDMaXX

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I'm really not sure on that compatibility, you can look at my picture below to get an idea on what it looks like, i can't imagine it changes much re the cylinder head positioning though.

The 3 little cats certainly add weight and for a fact they restrict this engine :(
You can always use the 'shove a stick in it' method, cat honeycomb isn't very physically strong, so it's easily knocked out like rusty metal.





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 Posted: Wed Jan 10th, 2018 07:33 pm
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RiggerWings
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Thanks for the pic. I've seen some online when I was looking yesterday, but nothing for my year.

Maybe I can find one for a 2000 and see if it bolts up. Depending on $ anyway.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 10th, 2018 07:38 pm
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MaDMaXX

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So here's the thing, you can "easily" pull yours off - you'll be able to see what access and shape you do have, compare it with mine and see if it's the same.


However, better still, you can shove anything down the end of the pipes and start knocking the honeycomb out, you can guaranteed get one completely (see the right hand one in the pic)

You've actually nothing to loose doing this, just make sure it's not rattling when you put it back, tip all the bits out :)



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 Posted: Wed Jan 10th, 2018 07:58 pm
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The 3rd is impossible to get the insides out unless you drill a hole (I drilled a little over 3/8 so I could use a 3/8 rod) where I marked. Then just braze or weld a patch over the hole.

There is no rod flexible enough yet stiff enough to get around the curve and break out the insides. I had to do this because the one before it had self destructed and clogged the cross cat.

Really ford, 3?


Attachment: 13_230048_290000001.jpg (Downloaded 37 times)



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 Posted: Wed Jan 10th, 2018 08:03 pm
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MaDMaXX

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Yeah, Ford performed all kinds of special on this one :(


Anyway, as the taillights on Rangers are barely held on with anything more than a prayer, it took me longer to take and edit the pictures.


2002 model year tail lights, upgraded to 2006 model year tail lights.


Old on the left, new on the right.




Same but with tail lights turned on.




Thought i'd throw in the reverse lights shot too.




Here's a not very scientific collage, old, new, new lit up.





And just a nice side shot.




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 Posted: Wed Jan 10th, 2018 10:18 pm
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mhoward
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Lookin' good, MaXX! :)



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 Posted: Thu Jan 11th, 2018 05:57 pm
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RiggerWings
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Those tail lights make that truck look much newer! Nice mod!

I don't mean to jack this thread, but Ford had to have installed those pre-cats for a reason. So they aid in a cold start, that's all? Yet, in cold weather it still starts fine. Doesn't add up.

Maybe emissions on the 4.0 were marginal so they added just a bit more to make it pass.

What exactly do you break out of the cat? Just the metal "screen" (honeycomb)? Is there only one layer in there?

Last edited on Thu Jan 11th, 2018 05:58 pm by RiggerWings



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 Posted: Thu Jan 11th, 2018 06:19 pm
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MaDMaXX

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Haha, don't worry about thread jacking, all discussion is related.

Ford had to add them as part of their Caf© standards (emissions targets) it's the same reason that engine suddenly started specifying 5w20 instead of 5w30.

When I say helps when cold, I'm only referring to the emissions, nothing else, basically it's a few minutes from a cold start before the main cats are hot enough to work at full efficiency.


The cat is a metal container, that you can see from the outside, inside that is the honeycomb structure, that is essentially a series of tightly packed tubes from one end of the cat to the other.  Just smash them out.



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 Posted: Thu Jan 11th, 2018 06:25 pm
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Those lights look just as good in your truck as what they did when they were in my truck



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 Posted: Thu Jan 11th, 2018 09:23 pm
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RiggerWings
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Thanks Maxx, I understand what a catalytic converter is and what it does...just not the pre-cats. I have never messed with them though. I thought they had platinum and whatnot in them and were a little more difficult to break/modify then simply hammering out the inside.

I'm glad it's that's easy though, I may look into this. I may also find a junkyard y-pipe that I can modify just to keep from effing up my stock one.

No issues passing a smog inspection though? I have no idea where I'll be living next, maybe I'll be in a smog state that requires inspections. Which is why I've never taken the cats off my Mustang.



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 Posted: Thu Jan 11th, 2018 10:30 pm
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MaDMaXX

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I have no idea about there being different metal in them Vs regular cats, they're just smaller and closer to the engine (will heat up faster for both reasons)

Getting a test pipe wouldn't be a bad idea, but it's not needed.

Smog? no, they have nothing to do with the actual cats or emission sensing stuff, that's all the *actual* or main cats job to do.



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 Posted: Thu Jan 11th, 2018 11:24 pm
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MaDMaXX

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Alright, wheel spacers....


I was planning on using some Christmas money and buying some nice ones from 12* North, but i forgot i'd left some on my Amazon wish list....


Anyway, these arrived.





They didn't look to bad, so i thought i'd practise with them and try out the world of spacers.

A quick test fit confirmed my fears that my steel wheels don't have the recess to allow the original studs to fit without trimming.




I got really ballsy and found two grinders in the garage (long story) and figured it was only a small amount, so went ahead and trimmed them.




It took a lot longer to do this than it should have, and a trip to pick up a metal cutting disc (used a grinding disc for 3 of them!)




Nice and flush.




Flush enough






The rear wheels on mine are drums, and they were quite a bit different - notice the hub lip, it's really small, and whilst it is enough for the lip of the steel wheel, if i had alloys on here, it would be barely anything.
It's just more proof that the hub isn't relied on for support.




I also needed to take off a lot more of the studs on the rear












This last shot was to show how unsupported looked and kind of "eww" the thing looked with the wheel and spacer in place...







Anyway, everything got spaced by an inch, and as i suspected, i wouldn't want to go any more than this, it's the limit with these stock steel wheels and i think it looks pretty good.
I messed up and didn't get any really good before shots, and because of that, i didn't get any decent after shots either :(

















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 Posted: Fri Jan 12th, 2018 08:26 am
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mhoward
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They stick out about the same as my AR172 wheels. Looks good, MaXX!



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 Posted: Fri Jan 12th, 2018 07:50 pm
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Oh wow, that 1" isn't bad at all. I was afraid it'd be too much for mine but from the looks of yours, seems about right.



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Notice any difference in driving, steering, cornering.... rubbing....



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 02:08 am
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MaDMaXX

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Some of you are starting to see my subdued style preferences now ;)

Rigger - Exactly what i wondered and thought, i think this is the right balance.

Jamman - Nope, feels perfectly smooth, no turning issues, rubbing etc. - Generally driving, kind of feels a tiny bit more, um, stable, perhaps? a little more solid driving around/cornering.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 09:09 am
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When I put my new AR172 wheels on, I thought it gave the truck a slight bit better stability in cornering. My wheels are also 15x8 (inch wider) with 3/4" more offset.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 10:15 am
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It should be a bit more stable and corner better with the wider stance.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 12:41 pm
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MaDMaXX

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Absolutely, increasing the track by 2 inches is significant.

And honestly, it does feel nicer round corners, i'm remembering back to my drive yesterday, it felt normal to me - but i'm used to much more stable vehicles, remembering how the Ranger felt previously, it no longer feels like it did.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 06:58 pm
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I checked my wheels today to see if I had the holes to allow me to not cut my lugs.

I do not. I have some recesses that are about 1/4 deep. Oh well. Looks like if I go with spacers I'll have to cut my lugs as well.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 07:42 pm
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Well, as you can see, it's pretty easy and as a percentage, not much to cut off.

If you have a grinder, it took me one cutting disc to get all 4 wheels done.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2018 11:10 pm
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I do have an angle grinder. My concern is, what if I don't like them and want to take them off? Now I have to replace all the lugs. I guess I'm overthinking though, 1" isn't extreme by any means.



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