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DRL Wiring in 2003 Ranger EDGE       #: 2443
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 Posted: Tue Sep 21st, 2021 08:17 pm
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Scrambler82
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I now have Halos, Grille Lights (similar to the Raptor), and Projector LED Parking Lights; all Amber !

I want to hook them up as "Day-Time Running Lights" (DRL).

Is there a way to do this without buying a separate kit ?

IS there even a Kit to add DRLs to a 2003 Ranger ?

Thanks for any info.


Last edited on Tue Sep 21st, 2021 09:22 pm by Scrambler82



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Wed Sep 22nd, 2021 10:56 am
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You can hook them all into any circuit that is key-on.  Depending on the draw, using a relay might be a good idea.  Use a key-on circuit as the trigger.  Leave the rest of the wiring alone, so they will still function when the light switch is activated.  Doing it via a relay would prevent any feedback in either circuit as well.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 22nd, 2021 11:58 pm
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Scrambler82
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Ordinary Biker wrote:
You can hook them all into any circuit that is key-on.  Depending on the draw, using a relay might be a good idea.  Use a key-on circuit as the trigger.  Leave the rest of the wiring alone, so they will still function when the light switch is activated.  Doing it via a relay would prevent any feedback in either circuit as well.
First Thanks for the idea.

Next...  where is the best location to find this "On-with the key", wire to use in this setup ?

I agree in using the Relay, just where to hook it up is always in question... at least until I start searching but a Heads-up would be appreciated.

Again thanks



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Fri Sep 24th, 2021 04:49 am
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Member of another Ranger Site and a person of EXTREME knowledge about Ranger Wiring, has informed me to use Fuse #41 as the feed point for the Relay Actuation Power.
The Grille Lights and the High power for the Halos will now be DRLs.



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sat Sep 25th, 2021 12:50 am
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Does anyone know what the color code is for Fuse #41 in the Engine Bay Fuse Box ?

Also, this a biggy... "which way does the wire go for this fuse when it exits the Fuse Box, towards the front or back  ?

I got the info to use Fuse #41 for the DRL Relay, sounds good.
Went to the Barn, checked the Fuse Panel, easily found the Fuse but the harness coming from this fuse box is about 1.5" OD; I proceeded to open the harness behind the battery because the fuse box harness was tied in to another harness and the battery was a guess because it was easier to open the harness there.
From my books I found the Engine Bay Fuse Box and Fuse #41, but I have not found the LB/OR Wire... I have deciphered the LB/OR as a Light Blue wire with a Orange strip... but I did not find that wire behind the battery area.

That is why I am asking anyone that know... "Which way does she go " ?

Last edited on Sat Sep 25th, 2021 01:07 am by Scrambler82



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sat Sep 25th, 2021 04:07 am
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So.. Fuse 41 in a 2001+ Ford Ranger feeds the Transmission solenoids and also feeds all the O2 Sensor Heater circuits as well as the canister vent solenoid.

Our best advice would be to pick another circuit.. and maybe find a second opinion for Ranger resources.  Just kidding, maybe your partner there misunderstood your intentions for an ignition based circuit (?)..


You would want to use Circuit [31]  20A fog lamps, Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)





Assuming you're wanting to keep this wiring underneath the hood, I would take the time to pull the OE Power Distribution Box itself. It has 2-3 clips that hold it into place, a gentle prying motion in the right direction will release the panel and a slight tug x2 should give you enough room to rotate the panel to view the underside.
But before you do that, I would ask that you take a really good picture of your opened Power distribution box so we can see whats what in it.


SOURCES::

















Last edited on Sat Sep 25th, 2021 04:09 am by 12° North Industries



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 Posted: Sat Sep 25th, 2021 05:21 am
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12o Thanks for the info and your time.

The Fog Light Circuit sounds like a good choice... I removed my Fog Lights and the new one will have there own circuit, so I can use the fused circuit for both the Grille Lights and Halos, and the new fog lights Switched Relays.

I have a question, "The 2003 Wiring Schematics Book, states that fuse #31 is power "On all the time"; Im not sure about the meaning.   Does that mean that the circuit is an ignition switched circuit... that has power in all conditions ?   i.e. Start, Run, Acc.

When I read the statement about being On, I was thinking it will have power all the time, any accessories can be turned on at any time... I know my Fog Lights couldn't be turned on all the time so I am not sure... AGAIN !

Sorry for the additional question(s), I will loosen the Fuse Box in the engine bay and ring out the Fuse #31 wiring; that will give me the circuit conditions.

Thanks again.

p.s.  I responded to you as 12o, I was wondering who is writing the postings.



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sun Sep 26th, 2021 03:22 am
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12o Wrote: "Our best advice would be to pick another circuit.. and maybe find a second opinion for Ranger resources.  Just kidding, maybe your partner there misunderstood your intentions for an ignition based circuit (?)..


You would want to use Circuit [31]  20A fog lamps, Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)

Assuming you're wanting to keep this wiring underneath the hood, I would take the time to pull the OE Power Distribution Box itself. It has 2-3 clips that hold it into place, a gentle prying motion in the right direction will release the panel and a slight tug x2 should give you enough room to rotate the panel to view the underside.
But before you do that, I would ask that you take a really good picture of your opened Power distribution box so we can see whats what in it."


Me:
I took out the Engine Bay Fuse/Relay Box; two screws and a slide in mount for the Bracket... PITA to get the six clips out to remove the bottom cover.
I found Fuse #F1-31 but it has Power to it all the time, it isn't what I wanted/need.
I looked up fuse #F1-31 DRL Circuit, 20 amp, and found that it feeds #F2-2, located inside of the truck and it is a 10 amps; it states Hot on Run... that would work but I need to check out the actual wire... a Black w/Light Green.
 I now need to ring out the wires, with and without power on,  to see where it goes and if the wire loses power without the key on.

If ANYONE thinks this is the wrong approach or there is a different route to achieve a "Hot on Run" Circuit feel free to post.

Thanks to 12o for the assist.

Last edited on Sun Sep 26th, 2021 01:39 pm by Scrambler82



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sun Sep 26th, 2021 10:57 pm
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Just finished the relay hookup for my DRL Lights, using F1.41 from the Engine Bay Fuse Box.
Ran a splice from the load side of the fuse and ran the wire to the Relay on the Radiator Support.
Problem the relay isn't working... WHAAAAT !   I will get a new one and continue wiring tomorrow.

I wasn't going to use F1.41 but since the Relay will only draw about 1/4 to 1/2 amp, I am giving it a try.   F1.31 looks good too, that will be the go to Fuse if 41 doesn't work.

Next Relay mounting by battery and wiring the lights, and then lighting up the front of the truck.



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2021 06:51 am
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The DRL Circuit feeds Hot and the Negative side of the relay is switching on the circuit.  here is a simpler idea for you perhaps, simply replace the Low-Beam headlights with your HALO circuit. I would just run the negatives from the HALO circuit into the ground on Relay # 2 so they're all grounded at the same point and then you should have zero concern for a voltage drop across the ground side.






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 Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2021 02:02 pm
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12o NI, 

Thanks, I didn't mean the relay didn't have power, it was an old Relay came from New England with me and it was old then. and was just worn out... a corroded broken wire inside the relay on post 85 stopped the relay from actuating.   I need to stop keeping broken things.
The relay was in my box of leftovers and was probably a bad relay when it went in the box; sometimes I save things... just in case.

I have no doubt that the wire I now have from F1.41 will work the relay when the key is in Run position and the wiring to the Grille lights has already been checked and works.

Thanks a lot for your help, I will be using the F1.31 for a back up circuit for who knows what I think of for my next electrical project.
I have a lot of clean up to do and I promised the wife to get one item off the Honey-Do List after the headlight were done... Headlights, Parking Lights, new Hella Horns, Grille Lights, DRL Circuit... all the same thing... right !

The low beam wire for the Halos... interesting; I will need to look at that before putting everything back together.
Right now my Grille Lights and my High Light Halos will come on with the ignition and stay on as long as the truck is running.   The Driver's Headlight Socket is supplying the power and High/Low actuation to the Projectors.
I would need to review the Projector Circuit to verify what goes where, but if I remember correctly the high beam power is used to actuate the Shutter that lifts to allow full use of the projector beam and the low beam power is the power to the lights or vise-versa.  
Again not sure off the top of this old head but I thinking on the Halos and DRL right now so one thing at a time.

Thanks to all for suggestions and use of your knowledge base to get this project ALMOST done.



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Tue Sep 28th, 2021 03:18 am
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I would use the red wire going to the radio to trip the relay. The yellow one is constant power, the red one is ignition on.



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 Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2021 04:06 pm
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Interesting, I will keep it in mind IF Fuse F1.41 doesn't work out.

What is the fuse value on the Radio Fuse ?

Wondering your thoughts on how many relays I can run off it ?
The F1.41 Fuse is a 20 amp fuse and from my reading the draw on it is low... must be more to it than I'm seeing !

Thanks for the input !



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2021 04:08 pm
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Scrambler82
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Forgot to post !

Found my HD Relays (2), didnt have to buy new, but haven't finished the hook up, guests at the house !

Hoping to get to it shortly.

Ltr



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sun Oct 3rd, 2021 01:57 am
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Scrambler82 wrote:
12o NI, 

Thanks, I didn't mean the relay didn't have power, it was an old Relay came from New England with me and it was old then. and was just worn out... a corroded broken wire inside the relay on post 85 stopped the relay from actuating.   I need to stop keeping broken things.
The relay was in my box of leftovers and was probably a bad relay when it went in the box; sometimes I save things... just in case.

I have no doubt that the wire I now have from F1.41 will work the relay when the key is in Run position and the wiring to the Grille lights has already been checked and works.

Thanks a lot for your help, I will be using the F1.31 for a back up circuit for who knows what I think of for my next electrical project.
I have a lot of clean up to do and I promised the wife to get one item off the Honey-Do List after the headlight were done... Headlights, Parking Lights, new Hella Horns, Grille Lights, DRL Circuit... all the same thing... right !

The low beam wire for the Halos... interesting; I will need to look at that before putting everything back together.
Right now my Grille Lights and my High Light Halos will come on with the ignition and stay on as long as the truck is running.   The Driver's Headlight Socket is supplying the power and High/Low actuation to the Projectors.
I would need to review the Projector Circuit to verify what goes where, but if I remember correctly the high beam power is used to actuate the Shutter that lifts to allow full use of the projector beam and the low beam power is the power to the lights or vise-versa.  
Again not sure off the top of this old head but I thinking on the Halos and DRL right now so one thing at a time.

Thanks to all for suggestions and use of your knowledge base to get this project ALMOST done.


The reason why we suggested the OE original DRL fused circuit setup was because Fuse 41 controls to many integral parts of the Engine Management.  Assuming you have an Automatic trans, you at least have heated o2 sensors and the EVAP canister control pc.  If you over draw the circuit, pop the fuse, there is a "potential risk" of damaging any one of those other components. 

if it is an Auto-trans?  I don't know about you but I wouldn't want to risk a $3k paperweight for the sake of some DRL light up HALO's in my headlights and be stuck somewhere or be limited to a 20 MPH limp-mode crawl up or down the 215/15 there because the shifter pack went dark.  It's about reliability and drive-ability.

All you're doing with fuse 31 is using the negative to control the DRL trigger not a positive, its the same circuit just backwards because of the Constant positive feed in the circuit and the switching to ground when energized.


JAMMAN wrote:
I would use the red wire going to the radio to trip the relay. The yellow one is constant power, the red one is ignition on.

Why does everyone go for the Radio leads when the ignition harness is a couple 8mm bolts away under the column?  Shorter run, cleaner wiring, more room to add relays, find a solid chassis ground, not scotch-lok the entire 5.5in of radio harness, etc..  Come on Jim ! No short cuts, teach em' right.



____________________
James / Elena / Brendon / Sean

12° North Industries
Las Vegas, Nevada 89118
Sales 702.781.0302
Email sales@12degnorth.com

Web http://www.12degnorth.com


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 Posted: Sun Oct 3rd, 2021 02:12 am
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Scrambler82 wrote:


The Fog Light Circuit sounds like a good choice... I removed my Fog Lights and the new one will have there own circuit, so I can use the fused circuit for both the Grille Lights and Halos, and the new fog lights Switched Relays.


Our recommendation is to use Fuse 31 to power just the HALO feature, along with the "Raptor styled" grill lights.  And yes, leave the fog lights to their own circuit as well as any additional AUX lighting.   We are working on a new blog article relating to something similar, should be posted by midnight tomorrow.  You might find it a decent read.  I think you're a subscriber to the site news so you'll get prompted about it.


I have a question, "The 2003 Wiring Schematics Book, states that fuse #31 is power "On all the time"; Im not sure about the meaning.   Does that mean that the circuit is an ignition switched circuit... that has power in all conditions ?   i.e. Start, Run, Acc.

When I read the statement about being On, I was thinking it will have power all the time, any accessories can be turned on at any time... I know my Fog Lights couldn't be turned on all the time so I am not sure... AGAIN !

In the ignition setup you have several circuits that work together to control many functions of any vehicle.  Remember kids, a lot has changed since the 76 Beetle where you actually had to shut off all your accessories.

  • 12v+ - Constant 12volt power at all times
  • ACC - Constant power during key in on position forward or backwards and cranking
  • START - Power on ONLY while cranking
  • IGN - Power on when key in on position/off during cranking of engine
  • IGN2 - Power on when key in on position/off during cranking of engine
  • IGN3 - Power on when key in on position/off during cranking of engine (?)
  • IGN4 - Power on when key in on position/off during cranking of engine (?) (most fords only have 1-3 Ign switches)

There are some minor exceptions to these but not too much in the 2011 down Rangers.  The DRL feature just has power on Key-On (NOT Acc) and during crank like most DRL setups.  It is NOT constant power all the time.  I don't know specifically why that is.  Could be a marker light thing, could be a safety thing, unknown at this time why DRL stay on while cranking.



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Sales 702.781.0302
Email sales@12degnorth.com

Web http://www.12degnorth.com


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 Posted: Sun Oct 3rd, 2021 02:14 pm
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Scrambler82 wrote:
Interesting, I will keep it in mind IF Fuse F1.41 doesn't work out.

What is the fuse value on the Radio Fuse ?

Wondering your thoughts on how many relays I can run off it ?
The F1.41 Fuse is a 20 amp fuse and from my reading the draw on it is low... must be more to it than I'm seeing !

Thanks for the input !

Depends on the relay. There are several wires that carry ignition on voltage, I just know exactly where that one is, it doesn't require tapping at the fuse box, and there is plenty of room beside and behind the radio for as many relays as you want. Easy access too, I'm in there so often I don't even put the 7mm head screws in any more, the clips support it well enough and it does not rattle.

Just because there is a 20 amp fuse doesn't mean they expect you to pull 19 amps continuously. It is so if anything shorts out the fuse will pop before the wires melt.

The standard plastic can 30A contacts relay available for pennies has a coil that pulls 200MA so you could fire off just under 100 of them with a 20A fuse. Math is freedom. And no there isn't room behind the radio for 100 relays. Almost but it would be tight :-)



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 Posted: Sun Oct 3rd, 2021 02:21 pm
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12° North Industries wrote:
JAMMAN wrote:

I would use the red wire going to the radio to trip the relay. The yellow one is constant power, the red one is ignition on.

Why does everyone go for the Radio leads when the ignition harness is a couple 8mm bolts away under the column?  Shorter run, cleaner wiring, more room to add relays, find a solid chassis ground, not scotch-lok the entire 5.5in of radio harness, etc..  Come on Jim ! No short cuts, teach em' right.

Easy bro just tossing alternatives. I go right to the fuse box for the 3rd brake light mods LOL that's where the wires end up when I run them down the left A pillar cover.

Plus when you blow a radio fuse you notice instantly because you are usually listening to the radio. That was humor.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 3rd, 2021 02:30 pm
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12NI and Jamman,

Thanks, PITA to remove the Engine Bay Fuse Box and get under it but I will think on it.
Future problems with this circuit because of the wiring is something to think on.

Ltr

Last edited on Sun Oct 3rd, 2021 02:31 pm by Scrambler82



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2021 09:11 pm
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12° North Industries wrote:
So.. Fuse 41 in a 2001+ Ford Ranger feeds the Transmission solenoids and also feeds all the O2 Sensor Heater circuits as well as the canister vent solenoid.

Our best advice would be to pick another circuit.. and maybe find a second opinion for Ranger resources.  Just kidding, maybe your partner there misunderstood your intentions for an ignition based circuit (?)..


You would want to use Circuit [31]  20A fog lamps, Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)






Assuming you're wanting to keep this wiring underneath the hood, I would take the time to pull the OE Power Distribution Box itself. It has 2-3 clips that hold it into place, a gentle prying motion in the right direction will release the panel and a slight tug x2 should give you enough room to rotate the panel to view the underside.
But before you do that, I would ask that you take a really good picture of your opened Power distribution box so we can see whats what in it.




12o NI,

I cleaned up the F1-41 Circuit before checking the F1-31 Circuit... partial mistake.
F1-31 says Hot All The Time... and it is just as the Schematics say.s

It does feed the actual DRL Module but my truck never had DRLs, that is why I am installing them.
F1-31 feeds F2-2, and F2-2 is hot on run only... nice, but I need to determine where the power is coming from in the Engine bay.
Even though the circuit has a 10 amp fuse the wire looks like 20 gauge wire...not very big.  Considering the length of the wires in this circuit the small gauge wire is adequate but I like using 16 gauge wiring so I have to get over it.
I can tap this fuse, since it is only for the DRL Relay actuation, and get over the gauge of the wire but it is interesting.

The Battery Fuse Box (or whatever it is called) is a PITA to take the bracket off, I found it easier to remove the Box and the bracket as one, and then unclip the bracket... THEN attempt to unclip the lower cover for the Fuse Box.   The cover finally came undone and fell off... figures !

Once the box/cover is off all the wire are exposed.

Now I just need to trace wire at F2-2 and see what comes up and where it goes.

Thanks again / Ltr



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Wed Oct 6th, 2021 02:15 am
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DRL in the sense of the age our trucks are simply means the first click when you turn the light switch clockwise. First click DRL second complete headlight. The "USA Fog Lights" are wired to not come on at all unless the DRL circuit is lit at least. That's why I always put auxiliary lights on their own circuit.

Tied in with the radio. That was humor for James.



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I'm ALWAYS an "add a circuit" kind of guy... but I just wanted to try to set up an automatic DRL circuit that I didn't have to turn on and off all the time.

The idea is not new, the idea appeared to me to be simple enough, but finding the best circuit is ALWAYS the problem. (OCD)

I thought F1-41 appeared correct but reviewing the circuit it is as 120 NI stated it does have some things on it that may or may not be a problem.
F1-31 sounded like it might be a good idea, yes a DRL Circuit but it is hot ALL the time... I would have thought it would be Hot on Run but who am I !  This one does feed F2-2 Cab Box, but it had a 20 gauge wire... I don't get a warm feeling for adding current to even it is only 250nA; I have my FORD Diagram book and I am looking for a circuit that is as follows:

1) HOT on Run
2) Has a Fused System that can support additional current draw, even the small amount of a rely, and doesn't interfere with other components.
3) Isn't difficult to get to the wiring... although the Battery Fuse Box is up and open at the moment, top and bottom; no sense to put it together until I have had a chance to verify some of the wiring for what I want.
4) AND it seemed to me, wiring a vehicle was a lot easier when I was in my 30s and 40s.  LoL !

Not too much to ask is it !

I will pick a couple of circuits that look good to me and verify through the site and see if the circuits will support my conclusions.

120 NI, thanks for your input, I'm still deciding which circuit will support my "Hot on Run" status and the added current flow only one Relay (250mA) and not interfere with other equipment, any more suggestions, please ?

Later all, dealing with OCD/ADD can be troublesome fer sur !    

GOD Bless all !



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Thu Oct 7th, 2021 12:52 pm
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This says it all:

"Occupation: Quality Assurance Engineer"



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JAMMAN wrote:
This says it all:

"Occupation: Quality Assurance Engineer"


LoL, I think my situation is one of the reasons I did a good job at QA Engineer !



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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I did 3 years as QA in the military. That was 3 years of my worst years in the military.

I learned how much of an asshole I was.

Last edited on Fri Oct 8th, 2021 02:43 am by Tsquare



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