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12o NI,
Thanks, I didn't mean the relay didn't have power, it was an old Relay came from New England with me and it was old then. and was just worn out... a corroded broken wire inside the relay on post 85 stopped the relay from actuating. I need to stop keeping broken things.
The relay was in my box of leftovers and was probably a bad relay when it went in the box; sometimes I save things... just in case.
I have no doubt that the wire I now have from F1.41 will work the relay when the key is in Run position and the wiring to the Grille lights has already been checked and works.
Thanks a lot for your help, I will be using the F1.31 for a back up circuit for who knows what I think of for my next electrical project.
I have a lot of clean up to do and I promised the wife to get one item off the Honey-Do List after the headlight were done... Headlights, Parking Lights, new Hella Horns, Grille Lights, DRL Circuit... all the same thing... right !
The low beam wire for the Halos... interesting; I will need to look at that before putting everything back together.
Right now my Grille Lights and my High Light Halos will come on with the ignition and stay on as long as the truck is running. The Driver's Headlight Socket is supplying the power and High/Low actuation to the Projectors.
I would need to review the Projector Circuit to verify what goes where, but if I remember correctly the high beam power is used to actuate the Shutter that lifts to allow full use of the projector beam and the low beam power is the power to the lights or vise-versa.
Again not sure off the top of this old head but I thinking on the Halos and DRL right now so one thing at a time.
Thanks to all for suggestions and use of your knowledge base to get this project ALMOST done.
The reason why we suggested the OE original DRL fused circuit setup was because Fuse 41 controls to many integral parts of the Engine Management. Assuming you have an Automatic trans, you at least have heated o2 sensors and the EVAP canister control pc. If you over draw the circuit, pop the fuse, there is a "potential risk" of damaging any one of those other components.
if it is an Auto-trans? I don't know about you but I wouldn't want to risk a $3k paperweight for the sake of some DRL light up HALO's in my headlights and be stuck somewhere or be limited to a 20 MPH limp-mode crawl up or down the 215/15 there because the shifter pack went dark. It's about reliability and drive-ability.
All you're doing with fuse 31 is using the negative to control the DRL trigger not a positive, its the same circuit just backwards because of the Constant positive feed in the circuit and the switching to ground when energized.
JAMMAN wrote:
I would use the red wire going to the radio to trip the relay. The yellow one is constant power, the red one is ignition on.
Why does everyone go for the Radio leads when the ignition harness is a couple 8mm bolts away under the column? Shorter run, cleaner wiring, more room to add relays, find a solid chassis ground, not scotch-lok the entire 5.5in of radio harness, etc.. Come on Jim ! No short cuts, teach em' right.
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