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Projector Headlights - LED vs HIDs - HEL #: 619

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Posted: Wed Apr 18th, 2018 12:19 am

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sheltonfilms
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In my write up I went with the D2S due to more common D2S bulb. The 98-00 also had deeper housings so a D2S was no issue.

IIRC someone (or someones) used Mini H1 projectors in their 01+ housings and it fit without cutting the housings up.

I would grab a stick and remove the halogen bulb and push it in straight until it contacts the lens to see how much depth you got.

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2000 XLT 2.5L A/T 2WD
Mods:
Power Windows/Locks Mirrors using OEM harness and parts
Explorer Sportrac White Face Cluster
Explorer OHC and Auto-dim Mirror
Auto Door Locks
Full HID Projector Retrofit

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Posted: Wed Apr 18th, 2018 11:32 am

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Scrambler82
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sheltonfilms wrote:
In my write up I went with the D2S due to more common D2S bulb. The 98-00 also had deeper housings so a D2S was no issue.

IIRC someone (or someones) used Mini H1 projectors in their 01+ housings and it fit without cutting the housings up.

I would grab a stick and remove the halogen bulb and push it in straight until it contacts the lens to see how much depth you got.
Thanks for posting.

I have 3 3/8", measured with a tape measure from the outside of the Bulb Mounting Flange.

The D2S's I was looking at have a measurement of 2 7/8" from the mounting flange to the end od the lens.

Somehow I wanted to cut off the rear of the housing so the Lens of the Projector was approximately 3/8" to 1/2" away from the Housing face.

That's as far as I have gone.
Was going to order the D2S's Kit with Halos from The Ranger Station and do some more measuring and see where it all comes out; I did contact a couple of local companies that were suggested by The Ranger Station but they have not responded.

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Posted: Wed May 2nd, 2018 06:29 pm

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Whisky
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I have had both the D2s 3.0 version and current FX/R 3". I did the FX/R myself and must say were a pain to retrofit. If I were to do another set I would go the D2S 4.0 route just for the ease of doing the retrofit.

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Posted: Wed May 2nd, 2018 08:02 pm

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Scrambler82
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Whisky wrote:
I have had both the D2s 3.0 version and current FX/R 3". I did the FX/R myself and must say were a pain to retrofit. If I were to do another set I would go the D2S 4.0 route just for the ease of doing the retrofit.
I ordered the D2S, 4.0's; time will tell if I can do the Retrofit.

I have done some mods to the Ranger but this one will take a little more expertise the I may have.

Any tips ?

Any pictures of the process ?

ltr

Added:
Also ordered the Apollo 3.0 Shrouds, Diode Dynamics Three-Stage Halos, and Directional Bulbs, that have the Switchback feature !

Reading back in the post, there are three steps, one is build the Retrofit Headlights, which WILL take the most time, two Modify the Radiator Support, and three wire up all of the stuff... Headlight Drivers, Halos... (White DRL, Amber Directionals, and Low level Running Lights with ); and new directional Lamps, they too will be switchback units so there will be White DRLs, and on with Headlights, and Amber Directionals. need to do some reading on the whole things.

Some people say it a snap to do, others say take your time and you will get it done, and there are the ones like me that say have a shop do it but the cost is prohibitive.

Thanks so far all comments, please keep them coming, and any ideas to make this easier.

Last edited on Wed May 2nd, 2018 08:33 pm by Scrambler82

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Posted: Thu May 3rd, 2018 03:57 am

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Whisky
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I didn't take any photos of the process when I did the fx/r but it did take a lot of cutting on the backside of the housings and had to do some cutting on the radiator support to get the headlights to fit properly. The D2S 4.0 are much improved over the 3.0 and u wont have any issues mounting them. You won`t have to do anything to the radiator support to get them to fit. Take your time and make sure the cut-off lines are perfectly horizontally and line up with each other otherwise you will be disappointed when u are finished. Be careful not to get anything on the projector lens while doing the retro and seal them up very good, don't want moisture to build up inside the housing. HID bulb choice makes a difference with the cut-off as well. I am running CBB 7000k they have a pure white with a very slight tint of blue. They are $200.(I`m just very picky) I would go with the cheaper $30.-$50 ones to start. Make sure you post pics when your done.

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Posted: Thu May 3rd, 2018 08:39 am

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Ordinary Biker
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I did not have to cut the radiator support at all for my FX-R lights. Granted it's a tight fit though. The 90 degree mounts for the bulbs helps a lot there.

Agree that making sure the cut-offs are horizontal and matched is important, you will be much happier if they are.

Also completely agree on sealing. I had to go back and re-seal mine as they got condensation in them. The butyl seal didn't seem to be enough I ended up going over the top with clear silicone. They seal now.

I would personally recommend picking a lower K value. Perfect for creating visible light for the human eye is about 4300K. But most people prefer the whiter light. once you start transitioning into blue you are loosing visible light. I am running I think 5500k, and they work well for me.

Edit: Wiring. If you got this from The Retrofit Source, their wiring is easy to follow. It can get a little involved, specially if you are wiring up multiple things, but it is do-able. I would recommend wiring one whole system up, and testing it, then moving on to the next. Knock them down one at a time.

Last edited on Thu May 3rd, 2018 08:42 am by Ordinary Biker

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Posted: Thu May 3rd, 2018 01:28 pm

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Scrambler82
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My part are suppose to arrive today and hoping everything is there and correct.

I didn't go with the The Retrofit Source, (TRS), Kits for two reasons, one being they do not carry the Diode Dynamic's Three-Stage Halos, Bright White - DRL, Dim White - Driving at night, and Amber - Directinals; and two I saved a lot of money going with Lightwerkz.

The Lightwerkz offered 15% off right away of as a welcome mat, then the basic price for the same kit was almost $25 dollars less (sale) they had the Diode Dynamics Halos, and offered free USPS Priority Shipping. Three days !

So I got the same products, (Projectors-D2S, Harnesses - Morimoto, 5500K Bulbs, (Not sure what I wanted here) and the Halos I wanted (three-Stage), they tossed in the Housing Sealer, ($12), along with free shipping !
Just so everyone know the pricing, so if they are thinking about Retrofitting your headlights, the whole package shipped was $336.00.
Again, what's in the box:
D2S, 4.0, Projectors
Morimoto, XB35 Drivers
HD Harness for 9007 Bulbs
5500K Bulbs
Apollo 3.0 Shrouds
Diode Dynamic's Three-Stage Halos
Headlight Housing Sealer
JB Weld
Toroids, one for each power line, to help with RF Interference - just in case, I run a CB and a VHF Amateur Radios in the Rig.
Morimoto Di-Electric Grease

And best of all, it turns out the package was sent via USPS, instead of UPS which I asked for, still free shipping but after talking to Lightwerkz about the mix up they offered the cost of reshipping UPS, off of the overall cost... and extra $20 off... I'm liking this Shop more and more all the time.

A note: I liked TRS, they have a lot of information and don't try to get you to buy to get it, nice ! When I asked about the Halos I want they didn't try to sell me their Hals (Morimoto's) they just said we don't carry what I want and let it go. They didn't cut the others down, they didn't pull a hard sell, they were good about it ! They do offer as a new customer, and often through the year, a 10% discount but when confronted with the extra discount from other companies they just said they don't have that, as with the parts. There was no hard sales pitch but as I said they offered all of the help up front without a sale, a good shop for sure !

I went with Lightwerkz because of the reasons above, they too offered help as TRS, but they were a little willing to discount to get the sale, not a bad feature at all, and I, in my opinion, took advantage of it.
Now to see if the parts are correct and if they are willing to help after the sale, which at this point I am expecting full after sale customer service.

I will get pictures of the shipping packaging and the parts as received for your comments, and I am hoping to get pictures of the build but I will not be in a rush, I am never in a rush these days, so if the pictures don't get there too quick, it is me as usual !

Last edited on Thu May 3rd, 2018 01:32 pm by Scrambler82

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Posted: Fri May 4th, 2018 06:39 am

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Scrambler82
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Got them !

All the parts look good.

Everything look like it is there and in good condition, now the fun begins.

I'm thinking Jig, not sure how mine will work out, got the Headlight Pieces yesterday, the Projectors, (smaller than expected, good...), Harnessing, Halos, Toroids, and little things. I need to locate a pipe with a 3.5" ID, may have to either sand the hell out of the ID of a larger piece of pipe or have some machined, need to check out standard pipe ID but want a thick wall. Not sure what a 4" PVC Pipe has for an ID but since I plan a Plate on the back to mount the Projector to I guess the ID need just enough room for the Projector to slip in.

Also, thinking about the eBay Jig,

[url=https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Headlight-Retrofit-Mounting-Moulds-Plate-Fit-Q5-E5-Hella-Projector-Lens-Trig/292422326238?hash=item4415ba97de:g:XXoAAOSw38BaYh5Q&vxp=mtr ,]https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Headlight-Retrofit-Mounting-Moulds-Plate-Fit-Q5-E5-Hella-Projector-Lens-Trig/292422326238?hash=item4415ba97de:g:XXoAAOSw38BaYh5Q&vxp=mtr ,[/url]

Making a new center pin/standard Drilling Bushing, that would at least center things up.
Still thinking on a complete rear mounting system but as you said I am not sure about the PVC/ABS Plastic adhering to the housing... hoping for JB Weld to do the bonding.

Jig Pic -

The packaging was a cardboard box with some, and I do mean some packaging peanuts, that was all. The individual component boxes were the main protection during shipping.

Start measuring tomorrow after the Brush Hog is attached to the tractor and the lower 10 (LoL) are cleaned up of Brush.

Last edited on Fri May 4th, 2018 06:43 am by Scrambler82

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Posted: Fri May 4th, 2018 05:25 pm

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Whisky
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I would personally recommend picking a lower K value. Perfect for creating visible light for the human eye is about 4300K. But most people prefer the whiter light. once you start transitioning into blue you are loosing visible light. I am running I think 5500k, and they work well for me.

I was running CBI 5500k but the CBB 7000K are a newer bulb just recently released and are brighter than the 5500k with no more color than the 5500k. Normally I wouldn't go 6000k or above.

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Posted: Fri May 4th, 2018 07:22 pm

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Scrambler82
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Whisky wrote:
I would personally recommend picking a lower K value. Perfect for creating visible light for the human eye is about 4300K. But most people prefer the whiter light. once you start transitioning into blue you are loosing visible light. I am running I think 5500k, and they work well for me.

I was running CBI 5500k but the CBB 7000K are a newer bulb just recently released and are brighter than the 5500k with no more color than the 5500k. Normally I wouldn't go 6000k or above.
I did buy the 5500K Bulbs !

Don't like the Blue and the Yellow bothers me too so 5500K it is !

Interesting on the new bulbs, after mine are built and installed we will see if the color of the light is the same.

Just how many Lumens are we talking for output, the CBB7000K, what is the LUX readings on the bulb !

Thanks for the info !

Last edited on Fri May 4th, 2018 07:23 pm by Scrambler82

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Posted: Sun May 6th, 2018 10:58 am

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Whisky
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If I remember right the new CBB 7000k was at 460 and the CBI 5500k were 340. There's a u tube video posted by TRS comparing the top 5 bulbs with the CBB on top. As I said before , I was running the CBI 5500k and now the 7000K and the 7000K are brighter but not that much brighter to justify the extra 80bucks. I believe the Osram 5500K at TRS went from 190. to 110./pair and the 7000k are 190. now.

Straight from TRS web sight- 7000K? So Osram rates these bulbs at 7000K, which is actually quite blue...but in our own testing, we found the CBB to have no more "blue" color to it compared to the CBH (which they rate at 6000K) and/or the CBI (which they rate at 5500K) - in this case, it seems that Osram is actually playing into the common misnomer that Kelvin rating = brightness by rating the bulbs accordingly higher. Weird!
Check out this helpful video to see how the Osram bulbs compare.

Last edited on Sun May 6th, 2018 11:16 am by Whisky

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Posted: Sun May 6th, 2018 11:41 am

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Scrambler82
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Whisky wrote: " seems that Osram is actually playing into the common misnomer that Kelvin rating = brightness by rating the bulbs accordingly higher. Weird!
Check out this helpful video to see how the Osram bulbs compare".

I was going to say the same thing, someone has there Light Temperature (color) confused with the Lumens or LUX Values.
I really don't know a lot about "Light Output Values", but I always thought the Lumens were the brightness reading and then reading TRS Info on Brightness they are using "LUX" as the go-to number.
Funny, where is the standards, how are people suppose to make an informed decision when the industry can't decide what numbers to use !

All well and good now, I have my lights, now I either need the time to do the Retrofit or find a Shop that will do it for me.
Home Improvement is great but when it interferes with Ranger Projects it's a PITA !

Last edited on Sun May 6th, 2018 11:44 am by Scrambler82

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Posted: Sun May 6th, 2018 09:01 pm

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In the simplest terms, lumens are how much light is generated; lux is how well it lights up the surface. Lumens are raw power, lux is usable power.

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Posted: Mon May 7th, 2018 04:19 am

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Home Improvement is great but when it interferes with Ranger Projects it's a PITA !

Yeah completely true. It took me 5 months to do my FX/R as I only could work on them when I had time, a little here, a little there, wasn't in any hurry to get them done. Better to just take your time. Good definition RCRV3N. Its good that someone cleared that up as I didn't know.

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Posted: Mon May 7th, 2018 12:33 pm

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Scrambler82
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RCR4V3N wrote:
In the simplest terms, lumens are how much light is generated; lux is how well it lights up the surface. Lumens are raw power, lux is usable power.
Thanks, that's always been a question when talking about LEDs, but I never thought about Light in general and I should have been; I used to work for a company that specialized in High Output Lighting, i.e. Operating Room Head Sets, High Intensity Light Sources for the Govnm't.
I never applied it to headlights, funny what you learn from the Web !

Whisky wrote:
Home Improvement is great but when it interferes with Ranger Projects it's a PITA !

Yeah completely true. It took me 5 months to do my FX/R as I only could work on them when I had time, a little here, a little there, wasn't in any hurry to get them done. Better to just take your time. Good definition RCRV3N. Its good that someone cleared that up as I didn't know.
Thank for the encouragement based on your time frame, I think it will take me all of that or more.
I tend to overthink everything, so I have the parts, now for the thinking !
My Barn/Shop, need the Mezzanine finished, I still need to rearrange the benches and equipment, some larger tools go inside of the storage area under the Mezzanine, then onward !

My Honey-Do List is so long I need a few of these "Round To-It's" just to get started !

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Posted: Sun Jun 3rd, 2018 12:18 pm

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Scrambler82
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So a little update, I have the projector parts, I have the housing, I have the Switchback Three-Stage Halos, and I don't have an oven to separate the Lenses from the housings.
The wife wasn't too happy with the idea, and for some reason the Stove went from ours to hers... fast !

As soon as I can get an oven, I will separate the Lenses and the housings, and start work on an aluminum plug that fits the 9007 Bulb Mount. From there my plan is a Plate Jig centered on the 9007 hole that will allow two things, one locating the four Projector mounting holes and two locate the larger hole needed to set the projector back from the Lens, then something to do with JB Weld and probably more than is needed. I think the big thing here is the alignment of the projectors.

Hoping for the best here but if I screw up the housings I will buy set of Spyder Housings and replace the projector in them with the D2S Units.

Thanks for reading,
Ltr

Last edited on Sun Jun 3rd, 2018 12:22 pm by Scrambler82

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Posted: Sun Jun 3rd, 2018 01:35 pm

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WOW you are really going all out {which is good}, I didn't do none of that. I just started cutting small and progressed bigger until the projector fit, mounted housing to outside table, hooked up a 12volt power converted to power projector, adjusted cut-off horizontally against my fence, JB weld projector into housing-done, start other one. You can use a heat gun to separate lens but oven is much better. FYI some of the aftermarket housing are a real BIG PITA to get apart, much harder than the factory ones for whatever reason?

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Posted: Sun Jun 3rd, 2018 03:09 pm

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Scrambler82
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Whisky wrote:
WOW you are really going all out {which is good}, I didn't do none of that. I just started cutting small and progressed bigger until the projector fit, mounted housing to outside table, hooked up a 12volt power converted to power projector, adjusted cut-off horizontally against my fence, JB weld projector into housing-done, start other one. You can use a heat gun to separate lens but oven is much better. FYI some of the aftermarket housing are a real BIG PITA to get apart, much harder than the factory ones for whatever reason?
I can't do something without it appearing correct in my mind ! OCD is a PITA at times.

When you secured the Housings to the outside table... did you just use the flat of the bottom of the housing or was there extra leveling to do ?

I haven't even looked at the housings to determine if there is a flat to use but hoping there is.

I am setting up a 2x8 across two know good sawhorses and positioning the Housings over the sawhorses, making the end wall of the barn.
I plan on marking the position on the sawhorses and the floor where the sawhorses are located, sort of a before and after picture.
I always go to the "Nth" degree when I don't have too, sometime is it easier to read or hear about what others do.

I just need to get the lenses off to get started; maybe I can rent some oven time at a Ceramics Store, LoL !

Thanks for your comments.

Ltr

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Posted: Mon Jun 4th, 2018 03:13 am

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There was some extra leveling, truck also lifted so had to take that into account as well. I didn't want my projectors shinning in the rear view mirror when behind a cop, that's never a good thing here.

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Posted: Mon Jun 4th, 2018 02:17 pm

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Whisky wrote:
There was some extra leveling, truck also lifted so had to take that into account as well. I didn't want my projectors shinning in the rear view mirror when behind a cop, that's never a good thing here.
That's never a good thing anywhere!
Approximately where are you ?

I have been thinking... smell the smoke, I need a power supply to run the headlight with OEM Bulbs to get a starting point or at least a point to return to.
The 2x6s, attached to the Saw Horses will be steady enough, my concern is, will the Headlight be in the same position as when installed; I need to do some measuring on the truck to determine what height to test them at.

Thanks for your input, it is good info.
Ltr

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 09:29 pm

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The Projector Headlights Project is taking far too long but my projects always take a long, long time.

I finally got the Jig (the Flat Metal part - $25), now I just need the leveling point between the Truck and the Headlight Housing.

Using the center Stud, along with a center device I can get the Jig and Housing relative square but the leveling to the Truck... now I NEED HELP !

Using the Jig, once positioned, I can get the four Projector Mounting Holes drilled... then I need to square off and align the four holes, put in Mounting Machine Screws and secure them. Then I can take the center stud bolt out and drill the larger center hole.

I'm either going to get it right or mess up a new set of housings.

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Posted: Thu Oct 11th, 2018 12:20 am

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The south american crew cab ranger got factory projector head lights for a couple years. If we had a member south of the border they could confirm this and possible send some our way.

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Posted: Thu Oct 11th, 2018 02:28 am

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Eddie Money
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Check fitment of aftermarket housings before you do any modifications!!! I watched a video of a guy swapping aftermarket LED headlights. Because they have the headlight and side marker as one piece it left a large gap on the side where the side marker meets the fender. This was a customer install so no guarantees he knew what he was doing.

ive posted on this subject at a couple places but I concluded by the replies that the OEM headlights were more effective. Mostly because LEDs do not spread out. They are a straight beam unless projected. For all the expense I was left feeling like it was a crap shoot if it would be an improvement. LEDs would be a nice upgrade on fog, side markers, and taillights, just not headlights in my opinion. I do like the look but I need to see at night

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Posted: Thu Oct 11th, 2018 02:39 am

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Found it. 13 min mark.

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Posted: Thu Oct 11th, 2018 10:59 am

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Scrambler82
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EM,
I thought about LED Replacement Bulbs and LED Projectors but I went with what was being said about LED by TRS and Lightwreks and went with the Morimoto, D2.4.0s Projectors.

I have the same aftermarket headlight housings in the truck already, but I had a shield put on the outside of the lens... out here in the hot sun the Uvs tore the shield to threads. In SOCal if you have headlight lens shields you need top of the line quality, not the second rate stuff.
Anyway I know the housings will fit, but I will double check as you suggest... just in case.

Why everyone around my area need to get minimum of $600 to do a Project retrofit is beyond me !

I looked at the Housings you posted, but in black, and liked them but could get any info on replacing the projects with the D2s. Might consider looking at them again, might make the swap a little easier.

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Ford-Rangers.com Ranger Forum > Tech Section > Exterior Tech > Projector Headlights - LED vs HIDs - HEL
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