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the "96" Explorer for V8 swap       #: 948
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX,
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 Posted: Sat Jun 9th, 2018 10:40 am
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JAMMAN

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Just about everything I have read on the net says you need a 97 to 01 explorer for the swap.

I found a 96 that looks in every respect identical to the 97/01 under the hood and on the inside. Console, dash, everything.

Is this person mistaken and actually has a 97 or is there really not a lot of difference?

I'm going to look at it out of curiosity not really planning on buying it just curious.



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 Posted: Sat Jun 9th, 2018 10:50 am
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I used a 96 to get away from the pats system. 96-97.5 has no pats . 97.5 up to 01 did . So there's a chance you have to get the computer reprogrammed and matched to your ignition setup if goin with the later . Still stays obd2 so you can still pass emissions . But for me I'd go the 96 . Plus the the gt40p heads 0n the 97.5-up spark plug angle is different and causes a problem with header selection



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 Posted: Sat Jun 9th, 2018 11:46 am
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What I thought. BUT if 4wd do things line up like they do in 97 thru 01?

I chose a non pats 97 for my 2wd, I don't see any HUGE advantage to the P heads, and even a slight disadvantage due to the weaker valve springs. My 2000 2wd was non pats being it was a 4cyl.



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 Posted: Sat Jun 9th, 2018 12:55 pm
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I've seen a couple awd ranger setups never really looked into for me . But I feel just in my researches and coming cross multiple sources for info in v8 swaps on rangers . That the for the most part it a bolt in a go . Driveshafts from the explorer or ranger or mixed should work . Makes me want to go dig around now to truly find out



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 Posted: Sat Jun 9th, 2018 02:38 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:
Just about everything I have read on the net says you need a 97 to 01 explorer for the swap.

I found a 96 that looks in every respect identical to the 97/01 under the hood and on the inside. Console, dash, everything.

Is this person mistaken and actually has a 97 or is there really not a lot of difference?

I'm going to look at it out of curiosity not really planning on buying it just curious.

Early 1997 Explorer 5.0 is virtually identical to the 1996 Ex 5.0. Several mid year engine and electrical changes occurred at around 97 1/4.

Some model year combinations of Ranger/Explorer V8 are simpler than others. However, there's no reason why a 96 5.0 can't be used for a V8 Ranger swap. You just have to correct for possible compatibility issues like any other combination of Ranger and donor. 

Mountaineer 5.0's began production as 97's, so did not exist in 1996.

Note that all of the above are model years, not calendar years.



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 Posted: Sat Jun 9th, 2018 11:28 pm
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Plus the the gt40p heads 0n the 97.5-up spark plug angle is different and causes a problem with header selection
No sir all you need is 45 degree angle boots on the spark plug wire set to defeat this myth
GT40 and GT40p headers will bolt onto each other, meaning you can use headers on either head they are interchangeable
I have fitted p head headers onto Edelbrock aluminums and also GT40 heads

96 is first year of V8 sploder
GT40 non p heads, internal EGR (inside the intakes)
96 still has VSS in talhousing of AWD t case or trans
97.5-01 as stated come with GT40 P heads (flow better) and external EGR (EGR tube on pass manifold, not inside intakes)
98-01 went from return style fuel to returnless (single fuel line)
The injectors changed in 98-01 as they run at 62-68 psi the earlier trucks run 32-38 psi
All 5.0 injectors are 4 hole bosch 19#
I prefer the 98-01 engines with P heads, but they all run perfectly, I mean its a 302!!
All 5.0 Explorers are also 3.73 gearing with limited slip rear axle 

Pats security in 97.5-01 is easy to add to any RBV as long as you have the PATS module, key and PCM
7 wires

The intakes are different 96-97.5 and then 98-01, the plumbing for the EGR Changed as noted above
The throttle body elbows are part of the EGR on the earlier setups
96-97 had a crappy water/oil, cooler built into the lower radiator hose. I hate these things. They can allow water in the oil when they fail
A 98-01 oil filter mount or remote filter mount kit along with the 98+ style lower hose is all that is needed to defeat that item

AWD t cases are similar 96-01, however 98+ the VSS moved to the rear axle
The 4r70w Auto transmission very similar 96-01, except in 98 it got a digital DTRS instead of analog and a better set of wiring to solenoids inside the transmission
All v8 (Im talking 302) explores are either RWD or AWD, never a 4x4 option. 
All V8 explorers are 4r70w automatic, never a manual transmission
The computer does not care what T case you run (good news)|
The 4r70w stands for 
4 speed with reverse, 7 is for 700 ft lbs of torque (factory rating) W is wide ratio gearset (it has short 1st gear and tall overdrive when compared to the earlier AOD-E)
4r70w uses 6 bolt 30 spline output givbing you several part time transfer case options
You can do manual shift or E shift t case
E shift t case you can wire up using 2004+ Ranger motorolla 4x4 control box
BW1356, BW4406, NP205 are good t case options for Ranger conversions
Can build 1356/56 or NP203/205 or 1356/205 doubler or whatever you can dream up
For some rangers you can use a F150 or expedition driveshaft and have a rear F150 driveshaft shortened to complete the conversion
5.0L explorers have DIS ignition, they are MAS, they use 4 oxygen sensors with two primary cat converters and two secondary
I typically delete the secondaries they are not required even in most emissions counties

Y ou can easily use a 96 as a donor
(7.5 - 01 works as well
Best to get the ENTIRE donor is can really save some $$$ in the long run
Conversions can be done in 4 days or 4 years from mild to wild

Explorers are heavy pigs and they were designed around the SOHC 4.0, not the 302, so the Gt40 302 was fitted with a crappy full time 70/30 AWD t case instead of a real part time unit. They did get some nice goodies, 135 amp alternator, high volume water pump, high volume oil pump, nice serpentine belt drive and timing cover (short front dress), externally balanced damper, and the best flowing intakes a 302 ever saw factory. The gt40 is a roller motor with hydraulic roller tipped lifters, it still has stamped rockers 1.6 ratio and a mild/emissions/daily driver camshaft.
The factory exhaust manifolds were pieced together 96-97, we call them "welded". Prone to leaks
The 98-01 engines had cast manifolds, flow much better but still restrictive
Just by bolting on a good shorty header you will see additional 24 HP and increased MPG

I am a huge fan of the GT40 302 with 4r70w and part time T case
BOMB PROOF DRIVETRAIN, reliable, easy to work on under the hood of a ranger (better then V6) they dont care if its 30 below or 130 out, when in a proper state of tune they just run
When Ford put the V8 in the Explorer they did us all a huge favor because they packaged it to fit in the ranger.
If you want to fit this into a 90-97 Ranger (beamed truck) you need dual sump oil pan/dipstick, custom engine mounts and a oil filter re locate. Radiator tuck is also needed or some heavy core support mods
Engine driven fans were metal to start with and the plastic came later. Metal is durable, the plastic is lighter better MPG
Into a 98-01 Ranger its basically a bolt in affair with some simple wiring and simple changes to steering column and inst cluster 
With a camshaft and some roller rockers, a good phenolic intake spacer,  well thought out exhaust w shorty headers and a part time T case your Ranger turns into a real rip snorting fun to drive reliable SOB
I converted my 1988 Bronco II back in 2005
I have built several V8 Rangers of all years in all forms

I love them very much, need anything with your project just ask!
Or bring it to my shop I can help!

Last edited on Sun Jun 10th, 2018 12:08 am by 410customs



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 Posted: Sun Jun 10th, 2018 12:02 am
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my old 96 that truck was a TANK:

4.10 gears, 4406M t case, TM headers, 2 into 1 muffler w 2.5 outlet, E303 cam, FMS roller rockers and much much more

Last edited on Sun Jun 10th, 2018 12:07 am by 410customs



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 Posted: Sun Jun 10th, 2018 12:07 am
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I've read this thread 4 times now and I keep thinking in the back of my mind how bad ass my truck would be with a v8. Thanks guys for getting the gears turning



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 Posted: Sun Jun 10th, 2018 06:49 am
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410customs wrote:
Plus the the gt40p heads 0n the 97.5-up spark plug angle is different and causes a problem with header selection
1.  No sir all you need is 45 degree angle boots on the spark plug wire set to defeat this myth

2. The injectors changed in 98-01 as they run at 62-68 psi the earlier trucks run 32-38 psi
All 5.0 injectors are 4 hole bosch 19#

3. All 5.0 Explorers are also 3.73 gearing with limited slip rear axle 

4. Pats security in 97.5-01 is easy to add to any RBV as long as you have the PATS module, key and PCM
7 wires

5. 96-97 had a crappy water/oil, cooler built into the lower radiator hose. I hate these things. They can allow water in the oil when they fail
A 98-01 oil filter mount or remote filter mount kit along with the 98+ style lower hose is all that is needed to defeat that item

6. AWD t cases are similar 96-01, however 98+ the VSS moved to the rear axle

7. The 4r70w Auto transmission very similar 96-01, except in 98 it got a digital DTRS instead of analog and a better set of wiring to solenoids inside the transmission

8. The factory exhaust manifolds were pieced together 96-97, we call them "welded". Prone to leaks
The 98-01 engines had cast manifolds, flow much better but still restrictive
Just by bolting on a good shorty header you will see additional 24 HP and increased MPG

9. I love them very much, need anything with your project just ask!
Or bring it to my shop I can help!

First off I have an early 97 5.0 with non P heads already planted in the first ranger, it's a 2wd coil spring, I have a 96 4R70W from a 2WD expo mounted to it.

The non P heads were intentional due to the header rumors BUT.....

1. Have always wondered that, especially after searching for almost a year looking for torque monsters just to find a set of FMS headers allegedly appropriate for either P or non P heads. When I put them on I thought "Wow it wouldn't matter what angle the plug came out at I bet I could get a boot on there". But who am I?  :)

2. Didn't exactly know that, my 2wd ranger is returnless and the setup on the motor is return. I would rather swap out the rails and run returnless but was cautioned against it. Running the return and taking the regulator off the fuel pump seems like so much work. One member here (Doc I believe) did run the return.

3. That's why I had to buy a 4.0 explorer to get a 4.10!!! You would not believe the amount of door tags I looked at.

4. Was originally scared of this one of the reasons I went with a 97 donor AND my 2000 ranger 2wd was a 4 cyl so there was no pats either.

5. Running a Hayden remote oil filter, already on there.

6. Doesn't scare me at all, there are SOOOO many ways to get a speed signal.

7. Using 96 2wd trans, 97 PCM, no problem? All the sensors bolted right up, harness was identical to the 4wd tranny I threw away unfortunately.

8. This I headed into the project fully aware of. I have a picture of the stock manifold posted somewhere here it is a joke.

9. My first one is very close to being done, I will plan the second one much more carefully. The 96 donor I was thinking for the second one. When the first one is drivable, I'll drive it and start on the second one if time/money permits. I would really like to find a 2000 though for the second one I think it would be an easier swap due to the fuel pressure/pats/vss thing.



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You can swap fuel rails no problem
The PCM does not care what type of fuel pump you are running, the signal to the fuel pump is the same
Returnless = cooler fuel = more power and better mpg

The PATS system in 98-01 is simple. The PCM checks for verification from the pats model that the correct key is inserted. I can literally add PATS to any vehicle even an early bronco.

I will only use the Canton 360 degree oil filter relocate puck, it clears the frame on a TTB truck and allows you to point your fuel lines exactly where you want with no chance of leaks when installed correctly.

My Bronco II has a 3/8" body DROP, no body lift
I am running solid engine mounts and a custom urethane (Autofab) trans mount. The stock 5.0 runs so smooth I can hardly tell its running
I have cruise control and air conditioning using the 1988 dash
I am using a floor shifter from a 96 mustang modified with gates to keep the shifter locked into 1 and 2 (hand file some detents) This gives me the OD on and off button right in the shifter handle and plus I love floor shifters.

To get the 98+ ranger tachometer to understand the signal from the v8 drivetrain you simply need to move one ground wire from one connector to another on theback of the inst cluster

There is some simple wiring to do under the hood the ranger high pressure AC switch is part of the body harness on a ranger and part of the alternator harness on an explorer. So a simple plug can be built from donor parts to make the V8 starter/power/ ac switch harness plug in.

Be careful There are some wiring changes inside the PCM harness from 96-97, 97.5-98, and 99-01
Also wiring changes at the solenoids for the trans in 96-98 and 98-01 
The cam sensor changed 3 times
Oil pressure and water temp sensors usually go with the dash, so take them from your old engine
The 96-97.5 had a ait temp sensor, the 98-01 use the 7 wire MAS with sensor built in
I like to delete the throttle body hot water plumbing and the pass side coolant water jacket that runs along the valve cover, this cleans up the engine bay a bit

There are ways around most of this stuff so conversions can be mixed matched
My 1988 uses the 97.5 PCM my donor was a 97 Mountaineer with no pats and P heads. I have a 96 Ranger manual t case and a 4r70w from a 2001. My wiring is completely custom using power distribution box from 94 explorer because my truck was a a 4.0L before the v8 for 12+ years.
Also careful with the VSS stuff, the earlier rangers 83-95 still used a cable to drive the speedo, so you will want to use a t case or trans with a VSS you can add a cable too. On my 1988 I eventually modified the dash to run an aftermarket Autometer speedo (factory dashpot location) that talks to the 97 style VSS
Now days you can get a GPS speedometer and be done with it.

Oh yeah and one of the other great things about the Explorer 302 
A METAL POWER STEERING PUMP!!! NO FORD RANGER WHINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Last edited on Sun Jun 10th, 2018 10:20 am by 410customs



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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2018 12:20 am
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Did the ranger lose the the return line in the newer models . Cause I run a return also . But my chassis already had it there 94 4.0 . Fuel lines where plug and play up front with the stock setup out back . Course now that's changed . But I didn't realize the newer didnt have it



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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2018 06:30 am
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Yup I'm facing it right now. 97 monty v8 set up for returns, no returns on a 2000 born with a 4.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2018 10:40 am
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I have return style fuel rails and injectors in my parts collections if you guys need something
My BII is return style because it was a 94 4.0 before the v8 conversion
I converted the 88 fuel system to use a 90 BII in tank sender and a walbro 255 pump. I ran a second inline filter to replace the 88 stock high pressure pump in the frame rail = sinlge in tank pump and sender

Eventually I want to convert my BII to returnless to simplify plumbing. Sje will also get an atlas t case or a doubler of sorts and a 331cc FSB at the same time.

The 2007 Ranger we have downstairs the fuel line no longer runs on the frame rail it runs along the drivers side of the trans and up to the bellhousing area, Ford saved alot of fuel line this way it looks like, I like it!

Last edited on Mon Jun 11th, 2018 10:42 am by 410customs



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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2018 11:28 am
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I need a set of non return rails. I have return rails being it is from a 97 mounty.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2018 04:21 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:
I need a set of non return rails. I have return rails being it is from a 97 mounty.
Option 1:
I would be inclined to retain the early 97's return rails along with matching 97 engine, harnesses, PCM and 96 trans,. Then the only "big" (not) thing that needs to changed in the Ranger is the addition of the return line. There may be a couple of other minor things but nothing difficult. Even the speedometer will continue to work just as it does now in the 00 Ranger.  



Option 2:
If you go the other way, I see a lot more work. Change to the 99-01 returnless rails and pulse damper and you should look at the following:

  • injectors (17# instead of the early 19#)
  • Returnless PCM (fuel map calibrated for the higher pressure and different injectors)

The late returnless PCM would then drive changes to:

  • 2-wire Variable Reluctance cam position sensor and synchronizer instead of the early 3-wire Hall Effect parts (read by PCM)
  • EGR with DPFE sensor instead of early EGR and EGR position sensor (read by PCM)
  • Should use the MAF with integral IAT instead of the separate MAF and intake manifold IAT. (different temp transfer function in PCM for the different location)
  • Change from the early analog Transmission Range Sensor  to late Digital Transmission Range Senaor (read by PCM)
  • Engine and transmission harnesses both swapped to 99-up to support the above changes
  • All returnless Ex 5.0s had PATS. So PATS either needs to be added to the Ranger or cal'd out in the late PCM.
  • ETC.


Sure, you could do it either way successfully. You might be able to "fake it"  and skip some of the items in option 2. Still, no matter how you cut it, the first option seems a LOT easier to me. And it is all factory designed and calibrated to work together, so fewer potential "gotchas". Bonus: you already own almost all of the stuff needed to do option 1.



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2003 FX4 Level II, Supercharged 5.0L V8, Headers, Duals, BW4406 manual T/C
Aussie Locker, Torsen L/S, 4.10's, Bilstein 7100 rezzies, Cadillac/Mustang rear discs, Duff traction bars
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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2018 05:56 pm
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That does it. Carburetor.

Just kidding.

It isn't the return line that is bugging me it is taking the regulator off the fuel pump. The return line would be virtually blocked until the pressure reaches the 60+ PSI if I am thinking correctly.

There is a return line but it is at the fuel filter back to the tank, goes to that regulator.

So I have to pull the bed or drop the tank a little to get the fuel pump out AND getting those things out is a chore.

I will consider all my options. I have read at least one article where they just replaced the rail and it did work.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2018 08:06 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:


It isn't the return line that is bugging me it is taking the regulator off the fuel pump. The return line would be virtually blocked until the pressure reaches the 60+ PSI if I am thinking correctly.


IMO, looking at the big picture, pulling the bed, removing the tank unit and unplugging the tank regulator would be a relatively small part of the swap. 

Of course, there is also another way to deal with the return line that does not require removing the bed. Simply dump it into the filler neck using home made parts or using a kit designed expressly for that. Then the Ranger regulator in the tank tries to send 65 PSI forward but it is limited at the rail by the rail regulator dumping the excess back to the tank and holding the rail pressure at 30~40 PSI, vacuum regulated. So, in this scenario, the supply hose would also be limited to something close to 40 and therefore never open the regulator dump inside the tank. When I first heard about this approach, I was a little skeptical but it seems to work just fine. A few swappers have done it that way successfully.

There are fancy EFI return kits and simple ones. Moroso makes this one that fits into a 2" rubber filler hose. I don't know if that is the right size for a 2000 Ranger filler  or if there are any other issues with using it on a Ranger tank - just an example. It should be easy enough to make one tailored to the diameter if necessary. The return fuel line is under much lower pressure compared to the fuel supply line so that should make it easier to come up with something safe.

Just slapping on a set of returnless rails without changing anything else and trying to run 65 PSI into a system designed and calibrated for 30~40? Just my opinion but that doesn't sound like a formula for a happy ending.   

Trying to go the other way and convert your engine completely to 99~01 5.0L spec -  the 96~97.25 has the most differences, even more than the 97.25 through 1998. That would mean a lot of work to change it into something that resembles a factory setup. 

Lots of options here. Good luck.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2018 10:02 pm
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JAMMAN

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OK I like the EFI return, that way I would run the stock fuel filter (even though I already bought a single in/out one) as is, fuel line as in and the return though an afterthought would work flawlessly. That does seem like the best option, it eliminates all my headaches and a lot of work. That will work thank you!

This 5.0 ran great, I bought it complete and drove it from cleveland to reynoldsburg without issue. I took it for several trips around the parking lot. In hindsight I should have kept the transmission since it was in excellent shape but I was converting a 2WD.

I'm really geeked about completing this now. I don't want a race vehicle this round I just want something extremely fun to drive back and forth to work.

Once it is on the road and proves reliable I'll start on my 4WD.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 12th, 2018 11:18 am
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Dreaded sled
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Next time keep the trans and just covert that one like you said  . Yes it's has to be torn down . But the hassle of a mystery trans and converter is likely way more costly specially if it has to get yanked back out . What I did when I was rockin the 4r70 . It's really only rear output shaft and a tail housing which you could probably source the parts to cut down on the shop cost on the bench build since you would probably just drop off the trans by it's self . To bad you ain't in my neck of the woods

Last edited on Tue Jun 12th, 2018 11:21 am by Dreaded sled



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 Posted: Tue Jun 12th, 2018 12:17 pm
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Cool thanks, I have played with automatics in the past, chrysler 727 and 904 (showing my age) AND I swapped parts plenty of times in a GM TH350 (that damn little clip) had it to the point it only took an hour or so.

Never tore a ford tranny apart. I knew there was a tailshaft and housing kit but didn't consider it. Fear of failure I guess.



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Ford-Rangers.com Ranger Forum > Tech Section > General Technical Questions > the "96" Explorer for V8 swap

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