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410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - cu       #: 1712
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 Posted: Wed Aug 18th, 2021 09:24 pm
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Dont forget to add 300lbs for that winch... lol



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 Posted: Wed Sep 8th, 2021 08:48 pm
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

The superlift drop brackets could use/will get some gusseting and re enforcement


The added leverage of the long travel A arms put the drop brackets under some real stress

Plans are already in the works to add some strength here..........just spending time with the truck in the shop you can clearly see where the drop brackets could use some "help" steel plate, plasma cutter, dimple dye, welder........... we should be good!!

While waiting for the differentials to get setup I have been working on the suspension, both sides have been final welded, gusseted and are ready to rock.


The superlift gusseting and support design is complete and now in the fabrication stage. The design is simple, yet strong. I do not see these drop brackets bending anytime soon..

The new rear chevy 1500 leaf springs are here as are the kartek shackle hangers. I am in the process of cutting all of the factory rivets in preparation of the shackle flip

Plan is to be rolling as soon as the diffs are done and explorer rear axle is setup for spring over.

All new front and rear brake parts here as well

Starter, starter wiring, transmission cooler lines and exhaust downpipes are being prepped for install. The downpipes will only have a single wideband Bosch 02 sensor on bank 1

I have many pictures to sort through as computer time is not as common for me during busy summer months

Lets do this!!

So last we saw the front passenger side shock tower was tack welded in place, happy with the design and fit we proceeded to make some gussets. Basically a copy of the Camburg design, except we are incorporating the True Travel shock tower as well

Out comes the plasma cutter, bench grinder, hand file, etc.......

pass side done, teaser pic, how we got there.........

onto the drivers side. Drivers True travel tower was modified just like passenger in effort to clear our 10" threaded body with dual spring setup






MUCH TIME was spent making sure the tower is exactly where we want it, I have several tools for this, angle finder, micrometer, eyeballs, etc

frame rail prepped, bump stop bracket shaved flush




tower placed







Last edited on Wed Sep 8th, 2021 08:50 pm by Eddie Money



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"Added by Eddie, posted by 410custom"




tack welded, control arms added, shocks added, this side was fully mocked up to ensure we are correct with clearances....we are. Time for final welds and gusseting

Cardboard shapes were created and traced onto 1/4" plate










240V plasma cutter "freestyle" I just use a straightedge and do my best, bench grinder, belt sander, then once installed it was all hand filed (ALOT) to remove any sharp edges so when you work on your truck you do not get any snags!!




more later I have to take my son for haircut, he goes back to school tomorrow!!!



LATER...









Now that all tabs/supports are cut and placed time for final welding.









Tabs tie control arm mounts into frame, triangle pieces connect arm mounts and tabs into shock tower

After wire wheel, light grinding and hand filing, clean and ready for paint




Drivers done, ready for schlage cleanup, grinding, hand file and then satin black paint!




ALL final welds are done both side, all edges were filed down to be smooth, rounded, NO SNAGS and no sharp edges, also removed some of the super booger welds for a cleaner appearance before final black satin paint. Frame rails were also cleaned front and back with flapper disc before Krylon satin black enamel




Sorry no pics of black finished product, or the superlift supports/boxing, YET!!!!!!!! I will get them when I am back at the shop tomorrow.




Pictures of the Kartek rear shackle hangers, these are similar to flipping the stock Ford hanger BUT include a 1.5" drop so that the shackle can be mounted and clear the underside of the ranger bed




I will be busy cutting rivets....16 per side, to allow the install of the flipped shackle and Chevy 1500 springs (04 silverado, 1700lb spring rate, brand new Husky springs from Rock Auto)



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2021 06:52 pm
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

more eye candy
Differentials still two weeks out

Here you can see the new 63" chevy leaf springs, and all the new powerstop brake parts
I ordered the 12" rotors to use on the front of this truck since the Superlift knuckles have provisions for them




Raebestos coated calipers.. I am thinking of painting them body matched blue? But the silver is nice too. I will check with @EddieMoney on what he prefers







and the sliders! Waited months for these to arrive, worth the wait these suckers are NICE!!
well packaged to say the least, all 140# of them
















Next up you will see the rear suspension mock up with the relocated front hanger, Kartek drop hanger and Chevy 1500 leafs

Sliders are available here
https://www.12degnorth.com/product-page/ford-ranger-rock-sliders-rails-98-11

Last edited on Sat Oct 23rd, 2021 07:00 pm by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2021 07:14 pm
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I dont have a preference. Blue would look cool too. If only the caliper were that big...😉



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 Posted: Fri Dec 10th, 2021 01:42 am
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"Posted by eddie, added by 410custom"

The factory AWD t case goes in trash along with its rubber booted CV joint front shaft.

We use half ton truck/ F150 driveshafts as a core, these shafts use a constant velocity joint made from two U joints and a centering ball yoke.

I do not plan to turn the pinion on the front diff up, with the way the front diff mounts in these rigs that would be fairly difficult. With a good CV style front d shaft it is not needed

Body match for the brake calipers might be the way to go! in my personal opinion on a Ford blue truck the accent color could be, body match blue, yellow, red, silver, or black. Red would be my first choice, but all of my vehicles have red accents. Yellow, no way in heck would I do that on this rig. Silver would look so nice (silver or grey) but it also looks stock, black is nice, but nothing "catchy" about black brake calipers.... I'm learning towards red or body match blue.............hmmmmmmmmmmm

Progress is being made on this sucker, summer is over and I am in the shop just about every day 



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 Posted: Fri Dec 10th, 2021 01:46 am
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"Postal by eddie added by 410custom"
I believe the 2.0 kings we are running have 5/8" shafts. We are running two, 2" shocks on each front corner and planning 2.5 - 3.0 kings for the rear axle. My wifes FJ cruiser has 2.5" kings in the back and they are MASSIVE shocks, those dudes have the 7/8" shafts.


Fox does make an affordable shock that is for sure, so does Sway away (now AFE) which I like very much so far sway aways have held up really good for me. I run Rancho 9000's on my Bronco II and they have been excellent shocks for the $$$, I am on my third set of 9000's on the BII in 20+ years, and still using the original warranty from 4wheel parts purchased back in the 90's!!
I had enough Fox shocks fail, leaking seals, broken mounts, bad bushings, to turn me away from them. Same is true with Bilstein 5100 series.....yuck

Last edited on Fri Dec 10th, 2021 01:46 am by Eddie Money



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" added by eddie posted by 410custom"
Hoping the axles will be ready this week

Until then, progress being made and I have some time to post an update

First up the new rock sliders
First impressions are well built good design, but the 3 "small" outriggers had some of us shrugging our shoulders, asking "shouldn't there be like 4 legs?", and "these mounts look on the small side of things, 1" square tube!"

Now I have had a chance to mount them up and it changed my mind slightly...let me show you why

Stock 07 running boards, bye bye






New rock rails mocked up, the front outrigger uses the stock two holes/bolts for the torsion bar cover
The rear two outriggers we must drill new holes
So I bolted up the front outrigger and used some clamps to pull the rock rail into position
Then center punch the new holes, remove rock rail and start drilling
Install is rather easy on these!

Now we can see the new rails mount up so the ranger floor pan / rocker sheet metal body seam rests right on top of the outrigger
The body seam is a very strong part of the rangers body
This will allow these "sliders" to take quite a "hit" on the trail, easily supporting the weight of the cab and truck

For hardcore trail rigs one might want to consider adding some tabs along the body seam to tie these sliders into the ranger body, stiffen things up. However we do not want to penetrate the powder coat and our truck is on rubber body mounts.... so it would not be a good idea to do anything of the sort on this build. A 1-2" body lift would help get some separation here.......

Once the truck is driving I will go twist up the suspension and see how the body flex works with these sliders being mounted so the body seam is touching the outriggers






They fit very very well!! It really changes the look of this truck

shop dog approved



Front most outrigger uses two factory bolt locations



Middle outrigger needs to be drilled, also i used a jack to raise it up into position so it aligns better with the bottom of the frame rail, then center punched the new hole locations



The rear most outrigger mounts to the backside of the body mount bracket, a c clamp was used to pull it up tight, then the new hole locations center punched




See what I am saying about the body seam resting on the new sliders? This should give added strength to the rocker protection if you drop down onto a rock.




They fit the truck very well, all who have been in the shop notice how well they fit the Ranger, very good from a design standpoint!










Next I removed the slider and drilled the holes.

holes for rear outrigger



middle



front mounting bolts, no t bars on our truck



Holes will be coated with paint before slider install

I am working on the rear suspension so I cannot bolt the slider back on just yet.......

Last edited on Fri Dec 10th, 2021 01:55 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Fri Dec 10th, 2021 02:07 am
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"Added by eddie posted by 410custom "
Rear suspension

8 Rivets to cut per side in order to remove the factory spring hangers




Angle grinder makes short work of rivets, one of my favorite past times. Working under the truck without taking the bed off.... no problem!



We will not be re using the rear spring hangers



Next the front hanger






All rivets were ground flush to the frame and then punched through with air hammer

The front hanger is now re located 6" forward, the bottom left most hole in the bracket now goes into the bottom right most hole on the frame

This allows us to hang the new, much much longer Che*y 1500, 63" leaf springs.......

Lets compare!! 2007 Ranger spring with front and rear hanger, shackle in place



07 spring vs new 63" spring













07 spring on top of 63" spring



The stock ranger springs suck because:
-They do not handle loads very well, any weight in your bed and the truck sags
-They break often, over the years I have seen MANY rear Ranger leafs with a broken leaf, fatigue, overuse, whatever, they do not hold up as well as our other trucks!
-Towing with a Ranger = bump stops!! They sag with trailers out back.

Our goal here with this build is to:
-gain massive amounts of travel to keep up with the new mid travel front suspension
-Use stronger springs that can handle some loads and a trailer if needed
-Flip the factory shackle, the stock spring shackle setup SUCKS, Rangers ride like hay wagons when the bed is empty. Setting up the truck with shackle flip will improve the ride dramatically under all conditions and this will gain us lots of wheel travel = traction.

Factory rear shackle hanger vs the new Kartek inverted drop shackle hanger


We can see a 1.5" drop is built in so the shackle and spring can still fit under the ranger bed, with these hangers the shackle now points UP




It will go something like this




So now that I have the front spring hanger moved forward 6" and the 63" spring in place I can begin to mock up the rear shackle hanger







Preliminary studies using the stock ranger shackle it became obvious that the rear hanger needs to move back about 4-5"
So off comes the trailer hitch, it will have to be modified to work around our new rear suspension

Kartek hanger slightly modified to allow me to move it back 2", it needs to go another 3" at least



more like this



So I removed the hitch and had to completely re support the truck

With the help of a friend I was also able to download a ranger long travel leaf spring hanger design from DIYoffroad.com, it looks like we will be building our own rear hangers... my friend has a plasma table and is willing to help me create some custom hangers!! oooooh la la



This design will get modified, I need my hanger to be about 4" rearward of this design to allow the proper shackle angle

Life is good, stay tuned.

I will have to hang an axle on these springs before I am able to do the final position and design of the new rear hangers.

In the meantime the frame rails have been cleaned and prepped for paint/fab

I am now working on the drivetrain, installing the starter, starter wiring harness, trans cooler lines, I will be Installing the beginning of the exhaust downpipes with provisions for the Holley wideband 02 sensor on bank 1.
Plan is to start wiring up the drivetrain so when the axles come back I can finish the suspension fab and have this baby rolling....

Last edited on Fri Dec 10th, 2021 02:11 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Fri Dec 10th, 2021 02:17 am
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Eddie Money
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"Added by eddie posted by 410custom"

More thoughts on the sliders...

I think it's pretty clear that:


Flimsy,

Bad to have the body Seam rest on them body flex is going to cause issues

1” body lift still would not gain enough clearance

Too expensive for what you get, I mean all this money for sliders that need to be modifed to work without causing noises or damage to stock truck

Why do we put up with this crap?

And to top it off they shipped the wrong ones

What a huge pita!!

Rear shocks will be setup once I have an axle in there, ride height set and suspension flexing. I am hoping to keep them somewhere near the stock location for this build

Last edited on Fri Dec 10th, 2021 02:20 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Fri Dec 10th, 2021 02:24 pm
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Where did you purchased the Sliders, they look like the 12o North Units ?



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2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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Scrambler82 wrote:
Where did you purchased the Sliders, they look like the 12o North Units ?
They are from Rocky Road Outfitters. I like them, they are just causing a bit of grief for 410customs because he wants to be sure my truck is top notch. The way they are attached might cause some noise when the truck flexes on trails and I like things nice and quiet so he is doing the best he can with them.

Yes, they are available through 12° north but they are not the manufacturer. 12° north are an awesome company to do business and I have zero regrets. I plan to shop there some more in the future once I know more of what I need for my adventures

Last edited on Fri Dec 10th, 2021 04:46 pm by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Fri Dec 10th, 2021 04:56 pm
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Eddie Money wrote:
Scrambler82 wrote:

Where did you purchased the Sliders, they look like the 12o North Units ?
They are from Rocky Road Outfitters. I like them, they are just causing a bit of grief for 410customs because he wants to be sure my truck is top notch. The way they are attached might cause some noise when the truck flexes on trails and I like things nice and quiet so he is doing the best he can with them.


Thanks for the reply.

Ok on RO supplying the Sliders; they look a lot like the 12o North pieces.   I was looking at the 12o N's Sliders but they don't make them for a Std Cab, just the Extended Cab and the newer Ranger.   
I guess the old Rangers are just too old to get the off-the-shelf items anymore.

As soon as Mike's Fabrication in OK City, OK,(used to be Custom 4x Fabrication ?) gets back to work I will be contacting him about sliders, he made my Ranger bumper set so I'm hoping he can do these.
Years back he also made sliders for the 1982 Scrambler, using 2" Receiver hitches as mounting points.

Im thinking 2x4x1/4 wall units, just to make sure.

From the postings, I'm thinking 410 is doing your truck ?  Nice, I wish I lived closer I would be in line behind you waiting my turn.
I getting tired of all the add-ons but still want more...  just done right.

Ltr



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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@scrambler82, Correct, they are the same ones 12° north advertised here. But they are made by RRO.

410custom is doing my build. I add his info to this thread because he is busy at work on the truck. He pops on here when he has time.

I think a good welder/fabricator could make a nice custom set for your single cab step bed. 

More good stuff happening!!! Stay tuned.  
Happy holidays!!

Last edited on Fri Dec 10th, 2021 07:03 pm by Eddie Money



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Eddie Money wrote:
@scrambler82, Correct, they are the same ones 12° north advertised here. But they are made by RRO.

410custom is doing my build. I add his info to this thread because he is busy at work on the truck. He pops on here when he has time.

I think a good welder/fabricator could make a nice custom set for your single cab step bed. 

More good stuff happening!!! Stay tuned.  
Happy holidays!!

Never had the chance to have a local do my work and at my age I am getting tired do the bigger jobs.
Having 410 local is a great thing... he seem to know what he is talking about.

I will be watching.



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

The completed differentials are here in the shop so the first order of business is to get her rolling so I have been finishing the rear suspension setup and axle install.


The next step will be to complete the drivetrain by installing the Holley system, drivetrain wiring and plumbing the exhaust

Update will happen in the next couple of days! Shop is clean and organized, cleared of all other projects, blue truck is front and center and getting my full attention! This has gone on long enough it's time to get her built!

Last edited on Sun Feb 27th, 2022 12:47 pm by Eddie Money



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"Added by Eddie, posted by 410custom"

I will be dremmeling our axle shaft until it fits together

No word from true travel or RCV which is total bs!
The axle shaft in question is the passenger side inner where it slips into the stock differential stub shaft, this area is not dependent on lubrication nor is it a weak spot so the dremmel to make a snug fit will get us going down the road. What else can somebody do? Between a rock and hard place



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"


Now with rear springs!

Starting w the rear Chevy spring and shackle hanger install


First I had to completely re support the truck so I could remove the back bumper and hitch

These will go back on later but for now I need the space to work on the Chevy 64” leaf spring and reverse shackle hangers














!



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom "




Finally some room to work



The rear Kartek drop 1.5” shackle flip hanger needs to move back one full location (front bolts now go in rearmost stock holes)



Dropped the spare tire, hitch and rear bumper. Re supported truck by frame.
Here you can see the front spring hanger is re located one space forward in an effort to accommodate the new longer, heavier duty spring and keep the rear axle centered in the rear wheel arch

Rear springs mocked up time to hang the 8.8 31 spline axle now fitted with arb locker and 4.56 gears 

You can see the 2.5” mandrel bend speedway diy exhaust kit up there too this kit includes provisions for an h pipe to Help equalize the banks. I am shooting for some sort of true dual setup on this ranger and there has been talk about adding electric cutouts or active exhaust of sorts down the road, will Leave room for as needed



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 Posted: Sun Feb 27th, 2022 01:02 pm
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Eddie Money
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom "

Yesterday I have washed and waxed the 07 had to get all the dust off!
e



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 Posted: Sun Feb 27th, 2022 02:07 pm
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Eddie Money
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom "

speaking of improvements ..........


Have some time to do an update!!!

Rear suspension is in place, all spring hangers, springs, rear axle
I am waiting for parts, spring perches U bolts spring plates, etc
Long story on that stuff, usually I have explorer spring plates lying around and have U bolts made up in town on the cheap while I wait
Then I plasma torch the old spring perches and shock mounts from the donor ranger axle.
Well this time none of that worked out! Much of my stuff is buried in the snow, U bolt guy was not available the day I went to town, I could only find one 8.8 spring plate for 31 spline??? and I only have one ranger shock mount! Ha the others still under 3' of snow!!!

So after all of that..... online I go, by the time you get U bolts, spring plates and shock mounts you could easily just get the Rf stuffd 8.8 kit......so I ordered the parts from Ruff Stuff, $200 delivered with added 10 degree shock mounts(factory style but beefy), regular shock tabs (gives us options), new U bolts and spring plates.
So while I wait for those I am finishing building the front suspension/brakes in an effort to:
Get her rolling
See the lift height/ control arm angles (so I can make any adjustments to rear suspension, ie block/shackle)
Can cycle rear suspension and choose best location for new rear shocks (while staying under the bed)
Test fit wheels and tires
Rolling truck with brakes!!! Can move her into bay one and get going on seat install and drivetrain wiring/plumbing/ Holley setup

BW 4406e transfer case has been prepped for install
I have exhaust parts I need to start fab on that
It looks like with the chevy 1500 springs, Kartek 1.5" drop rear spring hangers, and a factory ranger lift blocks and shackles (inverted) she is sitting at about 5-6" of lift! Perfect!! I like what I see so far, I cant wait to stuff and droop the rear suspension
Likely need limit straps depending on what we decide on rear shocks

Lets get to the pics!

Rear suspension mock up and axle install




out with the old







centered in wheel well






Kartek 1.5" drop hanger / shackle reversal. Set in frame rearmost holes.
Factory Ranger shackle now goes up!
Chevy 1500 springs, we kept the overload based on trucks intended use. These are the 1500 psi spring rate leaf springs 64" (04, 4x4, 4.8L, standard cab short bed silverado). You can get new chevy 64's in several spring rates. 1500 psi should be PERFECT for a lifted 4x4 ranger with heavy load and sometimes a trailer. The rear shackle and leaf setup should improve the ride and feel on the road over the factory setup, off road we should gain massive amounts of wheel travel keeping the rear tires planted so the new ARB locker can do its job: TRACTION!!!!







Remember this is mock up, once all final welding is done and all holes are drilled in frame then everything will get cleaned and painted

Last edited on Sun Feb 27th, 2022 02:09 pm by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Sun Feb 27th, 2022 02:19 pm
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Eddie Money
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom "

Drivers side start to finish


First thing we have to cut all 6 of the factory rivets holding the front and rear leaf spring hangers to the frame

4 rivets on the front spring hanger, 2 rivets on the back shackle hanger







front hanger removed



rivets then ground flush to the frame rails and punched out the backside with pneumatic chissel/punch






Now we can locate the front hanger, the factory spring hanger is moved forward, the rear of the hanger now mounts in the forwardmost two holes on the frame





How do you get bolts in there on the drivers side with fuel tank in place? You may ask
With fancy tools of course!! I love this thing







turns out the holes on the frame have slightly different spacing then the bracket! No problem with a center punch and stepped drill bit








Now we can bolt hanger to frame using two holes to check our spring/axle placement




Time to mount the rear Kartek hanger, to use the 64" springs we need this thing mounted way back!
Similar to the front, the rear holes in the frame now become the front bolts for the hanger
These clips have to be removed as the trick kartek bits also use the factory bumper bracket bolt holes for even more strength



that's better






4 bolts on rear shackle hanger for now (mock up)








front hanger removed



rivets then ground flush to the frame rails and punched out the backside with pneumatic chissel/punch






Now we can locate the front hanger, the factory spring hanger is moved forward, the rear of the hanger now mounts in the forwardmost two holes on the frame





How do you get bolts in there on the drivers side with fuel tank in place? You may ask
With fancy tools of course!! I love this thing







turns out the holes on the frame have slightly different spacing then the bracket! No problem with a center punch and stepped drill bit








Now we can bolt hanger to frame using two holes to check our spring/axle placement




Time to mount the rear Kartek hanger, to use the 64" springs we need this thing mounted way back!
Similar to the front, the rear holes in the frame now become the front bolts for the hanger
These clips have to be removed as the trick kartek bits also use the factory bumper bracket bolt holes for even more strength



that's better






4 bolts on rear shackle hanger for now (mock up)

Last edited on Sun Feb 27th, 2022 02:21 pm by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Sun Feb 27th, 2022 02:29 pm
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Eddie Money
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom "

Now bolt factory shackle to new 64" leaf spring and raise/wiggle/force it into position







Not easy! oh yeah I had to reset rear jack stands again!!! to clear new spring....fun fun lol



Look Ma!! Finally............two springs!!
Get your axle on!!!



So now while we wait for parts we can do the final install the front differential and suspension oooooh la la!!

FRONT SUSPENSION!!

Front diff with its new 4.56 Yukon gearset, bearings and seals. Shown with Superlift drop bracket in place



Yes I know there is no oil in the diff, you are not dealing with a rookie here 

Now since we bought a used Superlift there were a few bits missing, like bushings for this bracket!!



Luckily this is a Ford Ranger shop and I have buckets of bushings and parts. These two gems actually come from my own Bronco II!! Back in the day (like 2001?) I actually still had a sway bar, these energy urethane bushings were in that sway bar for a summer or so before it went in the trash....good thing I kept the bushings!!
Had to cut a new piece of stock at the proper height for the superlift bracket



Perfect! Little bit of my BII in every truck I build one way or the other

After that I was able to raise the front diff into position using my transmission jack and got her all bolted up
Then I removed all of the front suspension (control arms and shocks) because it is time for FINAL paint before install 







Nice satin black finish! frame rails are scuffed, cleaned, prep wiped and rattle canned both sides and behind front bumper

"Ace" our 2 year old Collie shop dog is always under foot, she makes it into so many pictures!! That's my girl!! Good shop dog

While painting is happening the F150 BW 4406 Electronic shift t case was prepped for install



First in order to properly remove the F150 shift motor we have to deal with the brown wire as it is permanently wired into the tailhousing






I un pin it from the connector, no wires cut



All of these "ears" and "tabs" need to go when stuffing the large 4406 under a ranger I like to remove these bits and file them smooth, this makes more clearance under the truck which you will appreciate when you have to work under/around a 5.0 ranger










Transfer case brushed clean, gasket surface prepped, "ears" shaved, she is ready to be hoisted into the truck



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 Posted: Sun Feb 27th, 2022 02:34 pm
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Eddie Money
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom "

I need two pieces from a factory 5.0 explorer exhaust to start our new system from the Torque Monsters back so I dug these out from storage


These are the 96-97.5 "welded" factory 5.0 manifolds.......
YIKES

These suckers are choking how much power a 5.0 Explorer can make. In the 98-01 5.0 trucks ford cast a slightly better piece...but still
You can see how these deteriorate and crack apart over time. Also you can see where 3 cylinders exhaust is expected to flow through a single port smaller then my thumb

Again.... one word for these when I see them.....YIKES
oh well I am only after the first 4-6" of the down pipes for our use












Now I am installing the front suspension, final design of the custom superlift drop bracket supports, and working to dremel our beloved passenger side cv axle half shaft....stay tuned!!



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2007 Sport 4door 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 Ranger
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 Posted: Sun Feb 27th, 2022 02:41 pm
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Eddie Money
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom "

I contacted RCV directly again yesterday

Our phone calls to true travel = no response?
Maybe he's mad at me for this thread? Maybe he is mad because I didn't fly down to Vegas and help him convert his mountaineer to 4x4? ??
Maybe they don't like the way I am using their kit with drop brackets? I have no idea, I had lengthy email exchanges with true travel after we bought this kit??
I have customers that get mad at me, I still take care of them. I will do just about anything to keep truck dudes rolling, for me it is not about the $$$ it is about the people and the trucks first
At the end of the day That is all speculation because we are
Left guessing.
What I do know is he won't write me back or return my calls, also no response when the truck owner calls too we have been blacklisted? What a bunch of hooey.
Last communication I had was last fall when I was told they should have a solution for us by October of 21.almost 6
Months overdue now and others are getting fixed axles. Hmmmm

Called RCV directly again yesterday this time technical support, they pulled up my previous emails, I gave them part numbers, he gave me some info. Good news!

RCV is going to help us, I am waiting for a call back from them.
They have not only fixed the issue but they have also sent warranty replacement parts to true travel, yet we are still left in the dark by true travel.
I just want a correct cv axle shees
This is a manufactures defect right out of the box should easily be covered under warranty


Paint is done front suspension is going on big progress will be made over next three days hang tight!

Last edited on Sun Feb 27th, 2022 02:42 pm by Eddie Money



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2007 Sport 4door 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 Ranger
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