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410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - cu       #: 1712
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 Posted: Thu Jul 21st, 2022 03:08 am
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JAMMAN

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So the advantages of the Holley PCM are adjustibility?

I like all the pics, I dipped into a crate last weekend and now that I know what the 5.0 brackets look like I can throw away all the other brackets I saved because I did not know!



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 Posted: Thu Jul 21st, 2022 01:04 pm
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There are many advantages to the Holley PCM
tunability, yes
Ability to upgrade, tune. Can adjust shift points of the auto transmission
Changes like adding boost, going from a 302 to a 347,  or extreme upgrades like change to LS or different transmission setups, or.........?
Nice to be able to handle mods like this and be able to tune in the truck

the Terminator X can control so many different engines and transmissions

Simplicity, no more emissions crap, no mass air flow sensor, no cat converters, no downstream 02 sensors, no fuel pressure sensors, no no no I mean it really simplifies the 5.0 EFI intake fuel and control systems

You can run just about any ignition from dropping in a distributor, ford coil packs or even coil on plug, many options are on the table with this PCM

I am working my best to get this truck done for Eddie!! We are making huge strides now..
life is starting to get back to normal around here, I am in the shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



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 Posted: Tue Jul 26th, 2022 03:59 pm
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

here we can see the holley wiring has made its way into the cab! (Cab floor needs a cleaning Yes I see that too!)



now to sort out some of the hurdles. I had to figure out a fuel line and power steering high pressure hose solution. The 07 Ranger is different from the earlier trucks, the stock fuel line runs up the spine of the v6 transmission. The high pressure PS hose also mounts to the track differently.
I found a 02-05 4.0 power steering line is able to be made to work.






PS line will need some bending to be perfect, but it works






has a funky bend in it, could have a custom line made if needed by modding this one, but lets see if we can make this one work even with its funky routing. I have a large line bender that really helped to shape it






PS line sorted!!

The fuel line I snagged from a 02 sport trac, plugs into the 5.0 and plugs into the 07 style fuel filter.

Time for some routing and under hood mods, lets get this 5.0 put together!



the stock 5.0 starter/ ground/charging harness has this metal bracket that ties into the explorer frame. It keeps the wire loom away from the oil filter and fan, so we will re use it. To make it fit the ranger frame better I cut it up a little bit, drilled a pilot hole and mounted it with a self tapping screw. here you can see I am using a C clamp so I can bend the tangs and free its grip from the wire loom

Install the top "tab" the ranger frame has a spot for it, then mark the hole on the bottom where to drill (oval mark)






arm cut off, hole drilled


While we have the grinder out might as well take care of two more brackets



When running a 1" intake spacer the coil tower and throttle cable holder need some mods. Basically cut off some bits



parts removed, let the mods begin!


All parts sent off to the parts washing department (me)

Wiring bracket final install





Everything is cleaned and prepped before install, need to find a home for the coil drivers





Meanwhile, remember this little gem? I dug the cv axle out so I can ship it to RCV for repair...... fingers crossed 



 




Next items to be wired to the Holley harness, IAC, TPS, CTS, and coil packs. Factory 5.0 pigtails soldered to Holley wires, wires cut to fit my under hood routing.




Holley oil pressure sender installed to the 5.0, just then I realized I will need two oil pressure sensors, one for the stock dash also. So I ordered a dual mount for a 302 from Ebay, $30


Once it arrives I can install both sensors



Messing around with fuel lines, somehow I ended up with two 06-11 Ranger lines? I also tried a 05 ranger line, it would have needed an adapter, then finally I found the 02 sport trac line will be plug and play. Had to swap the heat shield also on the ranger frame...they are different in 06+ more on that later











factory heater hose manifold cleaned and painted, ready for install. Also can see the 02-05 style fuel line heat shield





final routing for the crank and cam sensor wires

behind the heater hoses lol









heater manifold installed to engine



liking this location for the Holley 4 channel coil drivers, make it so



You can see the Holley coil pack (ignition) wiring has been routed down the drivers valve cover, wrapped and loomed.
Heater manifold and hoses installed. The fuel injector harness was final wrapped and installed. Cam and crank sensor wires routed...this engine bay is ready to go together!!

test fitting the upper plenum, getting some measurements for possible COP/ LS coil install



2.5" clear under plenum on drivers side, this is with the 1" intake spacer



tons of space on the passenger side


3.5" vertical clear at top of valve cover
5.5" at the bottom





Now I need a EGR block off plate for the back of the intake plenum/elbow. Time to fabricate!



Gasket is traced onto 1/4" plate





band saw and grinder, then a hand file and BLAMO
EGR block off, oh yeah I cut a new gasket too






 

Speaking of plugging up the EGR
the new Drain plug / TMH EGR bung plug arrived today
stainless 22mm 1.25 pitch drain plug with gasket
Will get some anti seize and final install. I ordered two, I am sure I will need another one of these!







Before the intake goes on the engine ground strap is added



Now soldered










Built a simple mount for the two 4 channel coil drivers, really happy with how this turned out










test fit / perfect!!















 








Alternator wiring, AC line routing being sorted, most things are just like a factory 5.0

Our owner really likes a stock ish under hood engine bay

This one is clean and well sorted

I have plans for the upper intake paint job  Shhhhhhh




Each coil driver needs a ground directly to the corresponding head.
These coil tower, lower intake bolts go directly into each head.
Perfect


final paint



I changed up the vacuum line a little bit for the back of the intake. Now it has two feeds, one for the fuel rail damper and the second will be for the Holley PCM built in MAP 

sensor
 well, since the Ford ignition is waste spark and only uses 4 coils....... I am wondering if I can combine cylinders BEFORE the coil driver and then just use ONE 4 channel coil driver instead of two.....
This is how we learn! By doing.


coil drivers ARE needed for CNP or COP ignition, I confirmed w Brett

more on wiring the waste spark ignition and mounting of the coil drivers. I am very happy with how this turned out!




bracket back from final paint shop (me), here you can see how the holley ignition harness is routed along drivers side injectors and to the back of the coil tower




the TMH, EGR block off plug is installed fully, anti seize on the threads. This is a 22mm 1.5 pitch drain plug (not 1.25 like I said earlier)

Now before I cut the Holley plugs off the coil drivers on the coil pack side of things I needed to carefully mark the wires with their corresponding pin letters, as you can see all of the wires are black, so this is very important to get it right. I triple checked before I cut a wire. The connectors are labeled very faintly with letters. I used a black marker and wiped it off on the white plugs, so I could see the letters clearly. On the black plugs I could not do so, so I used tape





On the output side of things (coil pack side) wires A-D are the coil driver wires (signal) and wires E-H are the red power to coil wires, all 4 wires E-H are the same, basically switched power to coil. I only need one red wire on each coil pack, for good measure I used two and capped the other two off





Coil drivers marked, one feeds cyl 1-4 and the other 5-8< DO NOT MIX THEM UP!!!!! Very important that cyl #1 wire leaves PCM, goes through coil driver, and ends up at Cyl 1 coil..... same is true for cyl 2-7. This wiring was done very carefully, checked several times along the way before final wrap!!



At the end of the day (or ignition coil harness) we only have 6 wires
Why? Because the Ford waste spark only uses 4 coils.

The chart I made earlier shows this very clearly, ALSO the PDF file WILL BE updated, earlier I had the wires labeled wrong!!
I am working on updating it today (06/20)




here you can see two coil signal wires come together to feed a single coil.
Wiring is done per the PDF chart I posted earlier, MUST BE DONE PERFECTLY!!!!!! or you can destroy your engine (not likely) but Holley makes it very clear you must have a professional (like me) install this system. A full understanding of why this is wired the way it is is needed, do not just copycat something you see on the net, you need to know the ifs, whys and buts of this wiring. Your harness may use different pin locations or wire colors! Mine is a Holley kit made for the Ford 302 and 4r70w, the injector harness and main harness match up. Then I custom wired the GM coil on plug ignition harness to be a Ford waste spark ignition. CAREFUL folks.

Last edited on Tue Jul 26th, 2022 05:33 pm by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Tue Jul 26th, 2022 05:42 pm
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

Just need to understand what wire goes where and why otherwise you can be in a world of hurt later lol





All soldered connections are heat shrink wrapped. The two non used red power wires from each driver are cut flush, capped with heat shrink




all heat shrink joints are then wrapped with a second layer of tape. Then the entire harness was wrapped with tape, and then finally conduit.
This second wrap on each joint ensures there will be no connection or short issues. I could have also staggered my joints, but this is a short harness and that would have been very time consuming. So double wrap it is.



 








mounted!! Finally moving on.....



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 Posted: Tue Jul 26th, 2022 05:46 pm
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

I will get to drive the snot out of this thing while testing and setup. I have two miles of old logging road we call a driveway that can be quite interesting! DIRT EVERY DAY


My coil pack connectors are super tight. I cleaned the inside of all connectors and the rubber gaskets. I make sure each wire is firmly seated in the connector and on its mate (push the wires on not just the connector). I like the idea of a dab of silicon to help keep things firm.
I have never had a coil pack connector issue on a 5.0! Not one of my trucks anyways and I beat on them daily



Cleaned gasket and inside connector around wire mating surface
All pins and wires checked. Connectors tight to coil pack


I learned yesterday that with the Holley Terminator PCM
External coil drivers are required when we run DUMB coils.
If you run SMART coils then the external drivers are not required.
This makes sense, otherwise Holley would have just put the coil drivers inside the PCM

Our waste spark coils are for sure dumb (two wires)
Smart coils have more then two wires and can be found on later model Chevy and Fords I believe


DANG CAT jumped up on the engine and got cat hair all over my coil pack!! LOL if I saw that before the picture I would have cleaned it off
Shop cats, gotta love em



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 Posted: Tue Jul 26th, 2022 05:50 pm
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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

I have updated the CAD/PDF file with the correct coil driver output pin numbers/wire colors. I simply had the cyl wires backwards on the last version. This is now the AS BUILT document





PM ME for the PDF or CAD file of this chart

Last edited on Wed Jul 27th, 2022 01:14 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Wed Jul 27th, 2022 12:06 am
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JAMMAN

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Get the PDF from him, the native attachment thingy on here takes PDF's.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 2nd, 2022 01:19 pm
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410customs

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PDF sent to your emails
Now I will try to post it here

no go! It just says ERROR



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 Posted: Wed Aug 3rd, 2022 01:24 am
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JAMMAN

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OK just tried one that was 10.4M, something is broken. I'll have to look at it myself I think I scared Chris off...

OK I got it to work, but download took forever. Who configured this server anyway? Wait....

Attachment: TERMX TO FORD DIS 073022.pdf (Downloaded 2 times)



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 Posted: Wed Aug 3rd, 2022 03:39 am
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JAMMAN wrote:
OK just tried one that was 10.4M, something is broken. I'll have to look at it myself I think I scared Chris off...

OK I got it to work, but download took forever. Who configured this server anyway? Wait....

It Works. Thank you

If you are looking for a readable version

download the PDF in JAMMANs post

Last edited on Wed Aug 3rd, 2022 03:47 am by Eddie Money



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

Progress has been slow, but progress is being made. I literally work on the ranger ever single chance I get, which has allowed me to get lots of stuff done! But not as much as we would have liked by now.... I do have a ton of pictures to get through so lets get started!

HUGE OBSTACLES on the wiring of this build have been OVERCOME! Ever feel like you are at war with a truck? Good to win some battles!!
Wiring a 07 (okay okay late 06, I call it a 07 because it has the same wiring as an 07, NOT an 06, so it appears Ford switched to the new CANBUS system half way through 06? I am not sure. I have only owned two 05s and worked on this "07")
so as I was saying.....wiring a 07 Ranger with a 5.0 and using a Holley is total un charted territory

I have won some major battles...........lets get you guys up to speed




okay with the coil pack tower all completed I could finally move on to finishing the rest of the under hood wiring/ plumbing



This is oil pressure port for 302 engine allows you to install two oil pressure sensors. I ordered two of these so when I build my sport trac I can have one too!







Installed into the engine with thread sealant. The factory dash oil pressure gauge for a 98 5.0 was used as well as a Holley compatible pressure transducer for the Holley PCM to monitor oil pressure








paint had begun on the upper intake. Intake was stripped of all the plumbing and accessories, thoroughly washed and cleaned. then primer and paint...... this two tone paint job took me a bit to accomplish, I love the end result. I wanted to keep the final appearance a secret but that would make life really difficult for me trying to hide the upper plenum from all the pics.
So here it is! The final paint scheme, I wanted to match the holley coil drivers and also keep the red/black/grey theme going (calipers, rear axle, etc)











The intake plate was color matched to the grey then I hand painted two coats of black inlay.
The intake plate may change later................ something custom could easily be made.
I also hand painted the tops of all the fasteners after the intake was assembled




after first coat of black, before touch up. I like getting to use my artistic skills once in a while.......not many things hand painted anymore




sneak peek of it resting in the engine bay


match the Holley color scheme and our truck win win
 

Last edited on Sat Aug 6th, 2022 01:23 am by Eddie Money



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

So there is a HUGE hurdle that had to be overcome on this project...... how to interface the 07 underhood wiring to the new 5.0 drivetrain and holley pcm. I have converted many trucks to 5.0 before, from 1984 all the way up to 2002, sorted them all out and completed over the years. Now this one is a new set of challenges. The 07 truck has a completely different system where all the body modules are part of one big computer, basically in the the CAN BUS system the PCM, instrument cluster, and body modules (like restraints computer) are all connected and talk to each other.

Installing a 5.0 into one of these trucks becomes very difficult, the Holley makes it a little easier. I have spent months (if not years now) researching how to defeat this with several options on the table. The best option I had was to use the wiring from a earlier truck as a "go between" the 98 5.0 stuff and the 07 can bus stuff. Finally with the 05 Ranger wiring book and the 07 Ranger wiring book on my desk I was able to determine it might just work. Then it happened...........

You see I had parted out two 05 Rangers a couple of years ago when we first moved to Idaho, I drove to Montana and hauled home a wrecked/rolled 05 and a smashed cab 05........ I saved everything from one of the 05's including the dash, frame, wiring all of it.
Thank goodness!!

The 05 Ranger under hood wiring was checked on paper..... it appeared to match up to the 07 side of things 100% (on the truck side, more on this later) AND the 05 Ranger still had the 42 pin plug C110 that I am very familiar with. So could it be true? Would the 05 ranger under hood harness plug into the 07 dash, fuse box, ABS brake controller, speed control, heater, etc etc........... only one way to find out

Last edited on Sat Aug 6th, 2022 01:25 am by Eddie Money



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

Back to the 2005 ranger under hood wiring….




This is what the new coil tower assembly looks like on the backside, plugged into the Holley input connectors keeping cylinder 1 going to cylinder one and that way we know they are not swapped side to side.
Can also see each coil drivers ground lead goes directly to the mounting studs on the appropriate head



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"Added  by eddie, posted by 410custom"

Okay so I needed to clean the 2005 ranger engine bay wiring

For this I laid it all out and cleaned it with spray bottle of degreaser and a scrub brush. Hose it all off and hang it up to dry for a few days



Before






The c110 plug I am used to, nice!
(I would learn later The 07 harness has a c110 also but it looks completely different)





Confirmed on paper and in person that this harness plugs into the truck on both sides, same as 07

Now to
Clean it



Done drying outside

Now to install, a few hours later and blamo! We have engine bay harness…. This is an in progress pic to show the routing


Finally!A fuse box and everything
Now to turn my attention to all of the connections under the hood, 99% of the wires that interface put Holley and drivetrain to the truck occur at the new c110 42 pin connector
ccess the cab...working on the dash and interior now 

I was thinking of having a completely custom plaque made with my face and logo all over it

KIDDING!!!!!
I am sure Eddie is having a whirlwind of design ideas about his upper intake plaque. Maybe he will just want me to do another one similar paint scheme but on some sort of plaque we have cutout? I dunno........ I will worry about this when its running and driving

if your head is spinning now check this out, the end of the Holley under hood wiring, all connections have been made, wrapped, and run. Some of this might help you! HAHAHAHA

okay so when we left off the 05 wiring harness was going in.
Here is a snap of that completed


more






Nice eh?




all run using factory hardware and push pins, etc
Now to finish the engine bay



Much time was spent with these two books, making sure that every wire I hookup has the proper destination one by one




which leads to many of these hand written notes so that I can eventually transfer all this info to the truck and then to this thread 

Now I have every wire that is left in the holley harness listed, including its destnation. All of the wires but maybe 3 go to the C110 42 pin plug on the 05 ranger harness, here





So I am going to need one of these:





female side pigtail, I snagged this one from some Ford around here? I think a 97 v8 crushy
Most 96-04 Ford vehicles will have this plug and for the most part the wiring at them is all very similar, at least it is on the ranger based trucks. This plug is known as c110, c112 and c115 depending on your year and model

next to identify all Holley loose wires and where they go




here they are run up to the engine bay and ready to route to the c110 plug (by the brake booster)

the wires are:
Solid Red - Holley PCM power feed, direct to fused power constant battery voltage
Plug C110, Pin 8, yellow, (10 amp fuse at PJB)

Green - Holley fuel pump trigger, 12V+, C110, pin 5, DG/YE (relay trigger from pcm)
Red (x2) - Coil driver acc power, C110, Pin 9, RD, (hot in start or run)
- White - Holley CD ignition box (not used)
- Yellow - Holley RPM signal (not used)
Black - Holley PCM chassis ground, To firewall ground near wiper motor
Brown/White - Holley BOO circuit (brake switch), C110, Pin 4, RD/LG
- Tan - 
Holley PCM OD cancel, C110, Pin 42, TN/WH
Light Blue - Holley OD indicator, C110, pin 40, WH/LG


Then we have 6 loose wires that come from the Holley transmission harness directly from the DTRS (digital transmission range sensor, or Neutral safety for you chevy dudes)
Violet (x2) Reverse lights pass through. 1 lead goes to fuse box, hot in start or run, C110, Pin 25, VT/OG
- Violet 2 
lead goes directly to reverse lights via plug c311 which is under the ranger near the t case, BK/PK

White (x2) 
Neutral Safety pass though for starter circuit. 1 lead C110, Pin 31, Tan/Red
2 lead C110, Pin 24, Pink

- Black / White (x2) 
4x4 shift (esof) neutral safety wire pass through for 4x4 control module. 1 lead C110, Pin 33, RD/WH
2 Lead, to chassis ground, near wiper motor


Now with all of those identified it is almost time to final install the upper intake!!
Before I can do that I needed to wire up the aftermarket (for the Holley PCM) oil pressure sensor



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

all right so wiring up the oil pressure sensor, 3 wire deal, power ground and signal direct from Holley PCM to the new pressure sensor pigtail




solder, heat shrink and then I double wrap (over the heat shrink tubing) all power and signal wires with tape before conduit. This makes sure no rogue pokey wires short on the joint next to them = overkill just as if it was my own truck!

Now the IAC, we are using a stock Ford IAC, 2 wires, one signal and one power (ACC power, hot in start or run)




The holley PCM is kinda designed for the GM 4 wire IAC, but gives us detailed instructions on how to run the Ford IAC
In order to make this work basically you ignore all of the Holley IAC wires and instead you use lead, OUTPUT #4, which is in Holley connector B3, Pin H grey with green. So What I am going to do is move one of the now non used Holley IAC wires (for the gm 4 wire style) and move it to pin H. I have already chosen the purple GM IAC lead #1, the other 3 wires are not used and will be unpinned from the PCM.

So move one wire at PCM (IAc wire 1 to connector B3, Pin H, GY/GN) and then run a solid red to acc/switched power...........already done

Now for the final wiring all the loose wires from above
All loose Holley wires were cut to length soldered...etc..... now hooked up to the c110 plug

















You can see the two ground wires headed to the stock ground stud near the wiper motor (now pink lead)











Now finally it has been a long time coming and a huge milestone in a conversion like this

The upper intake plenum and spacer are ready to go on final!!!



here are some close up shots I took for Eddie to make him drool, he said I can paint good (I am a classically trained artist and I went to graphic design school)







I even painted the bolt heads after I installed the elbow

had to tidy up the engine bay, lock all wires into their final positions, route all Holley wires properly around the heater hoses and down the spine of the trans.

final wrap on all wiring










Lower intake was cleaned, upper intake, gaskets and spacer was prepared for install
the upper intake gets some plumbing underneath before hoisting it into position






cleaned all parts and added the custom vacuum line that feeds the fuel pressure regulator and the new Holley built in MAP sensor, the PCV hoses and brake booster hoses.
Intake mounting surface cleaned, spacer cleaned, gaskets and bolts set in place and finally install



I have some tricks I use, like for example you must have the rear long bolt in place when you put the intake up there.... I use a plastic clip to hold the bolt up so it does not interfere with teh placement of the gasket, spacer, gasket, and intake sandwich





DONE!!!!!



coil tower installed, some detailed shots

with no EGR plumbing it sure is nice to have all the room in the engine bay, makes a nice spot for the Holley PCM to injector plug and Holley PCM to ignition plug






coil tower in! Throttle cable, shifter cable going in
Now to mount the alternator, AC compressor, Power steering reservoir, belt, fan etc etc finish up the engine bay, put this sucker on some wheels so I can access the cab and get to the dash/cluster/steering column/ and seat install





some factory dtrs wiring info for our friends






Above this is 05 Ranger book

Below is 2000 Model (98-01 5.0)






And finally the 97 5.0 DTRS (96-97.5)



Back on wheels and tires!!
Sorry she is so dusty, once the engine bay is finalized I can back her out and give her a proper wash











All wiring is in plumbing is happening
time to finish up the engine side of things
this means LOTS of cleaning parts and looking for the right bolt!! LOL


First up power steering reservoir, was cleaned inside and out

the remaining wires in the C110 plug will be removed once she is running and we decide they are all not needed

coil pack resistor was installed


throttle body and IAC were carefully cleaned and painted


color matched throttle body 😊
Oil filler neck is in




Modified throttle cable bracket installed



next round of parts for cleaning



almost ready for a belt



throttle cable in, some vacuum going in, time for the ac compressor and line



everything is dismantled and cleaned.
The washer/overflow tank is easily cleaned with de greaser, if you need to clean the inside fill it with pea gravel and soapy water, start shakin!!



ac compressor, line and shield up next
Nothing better then 104K mile OEM parts!!



cruise control / speed control servo is in
alternator cleaned and going on



ac line is in, needs some heat wrap to hide the ugly



cruise cable, ac line, alternator and alt wiring in


ready for ac compressor







vacuum line modded, I need the feed for the HVAC system (Heat and ac) but we no longer have the EVAP system (fuel tank vapor management) so the vacuum for that side is deleted.



small fine thread bolt with some silicon patches the hole



move some power steering hoses and some lines in prep for the ac compressor



cleaned and final drain of old ac oil



Yeah buddy finally a BELT!!









IAC is dry and installed




Its all the small things


Ready for intake air tube, ac line wrapped with some heat shield




I used the throttle bracket and cover to hide these pigtails, one is for Holley fuel pressure sensor, I have not installed
Second is for a GM style 3 bar MAP sensor if needed, the Holley has a MAP sensor built in we will be using, but if you ever add boost they recommend using an external MAP, so I left the pigtail. 


They are now completely hidden 😊





throttle cover on, overall engine bay! Dang shop cats leaving prints all over the truck..... Its ok soon she goes outside for a spray off























all grounds around the engine bay addressed, ABS pump mounted, all final little things being buttoned up

Last edited on Wed Aug 10th, 2022 04:03 am by Eddie Money



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

start up as soon as I can install the dash and steering column! add fluids, final wiring and maybe position the drivers seat....then VROOM


Our EVAP system will be very simple, just like the older trucks.

The fuel vapors will be sent to a charcoal canister back by the spare tire where they will wait for a canister purge valve to open under WOT and send all the fumes into the intake......... That is the hope anyway. The holley does not have canister purge controls, but I can add one.

Otherwise we will be even more old school, just venting the charcoal canister to the atmosphere


Right now there is a gas tank pressure sensor, a canister vent solenoid and a canister purge solenoid, that all goes away.........

Apparently it does not need the signal at wot since it is normally open, but then why install the vent valve at all?

This 07 will not have a canister purge or canister vent but it will have a canister!

I will retain the 07 canister up under the bed by the spare the 07 style is compact and nice

Last edited on Tue Aug 23rd, 2022 07:34 am by Eddie Money



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"Added by eddie posted by 410custom"

Next up 





new radiator has been sitting in a box for a while, finally time to install!
First the 07 AC condenser was cleaned inside and out then installed, now I could lay the radiator down onto its mounts.
Dual factory trans coolers were also cleaned inside and out ready to go in






sexy!!














now for the fun part







she's outside and wet again ooooooh la la


SOOOO GLAD to get rid of all the dust




I had to push the truck outside so I could access the overhead storage which is where the dash and other precious parts have been kept all of this time. So while outside, it was time for a wash and some pictures!!

This Ranger is soooo nice! I will let the pictures tell the tale






















"Ace" approves everything that happens in the shop

I love the stance of this ranger!!

The pictures do not do it justice, she is super sharp in person




the goal was the overhead storage where the dash and other goodies have been hiding all of this time






After the AC condenser and the radiator were installed, the dash and interior wiring have started to go into the truck!!


Next up is the steering column and instrument cluster, as well as a center console and then the Ford edge seats.

Once most of this is done it will be time for fluids and try to start this thing 

I am about to order the rear shocks
Will put in the order for Kings with Brett 
 

more coming...

Last edited on Tue Aug 23rd, 2022 07:50 am by Eddie Money



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"Added by eddie posted by 410custom"

Engine bay is done, fan, hoses, radiator, ac condenser, trans coolers................. we are onto the cab now

Which is why she is rolling, so I can open both doors and work on the inside!!



Shes back on the wheels she rolled in here on.... Im thinking some 35's will fit nicely

I love the stance of this truck, I have not even adjusted any suspension yet, just preliminary settings and she is sitting dang near level
You can for sure tell this Ranger is not stock HAHAHAHAHAHAHA






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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

big update coming, I must get this truck running, had a chance to sit down and upload some pics


I have been working on the interior, dash skeleton is in, column and cluster goin in, I am finally ordering rear shocks 


Share with you guys the latest news

New upper and lower radiator hoses will be here tomorrow......... waiting on parts is the new normal!
Then I can finally install the fan and shroud, all that is left in the engine bay is some sort of intake without a mas meter









Guess who finally showed up to the party?

They reworked RCV axle shaft!!!
Looks just like what I was about to accomplish with the dremmel!! Oh well now I have a bunch of cool dremmel bits still new in box. Eddie money said it best when I told him I have the cv axle in my hands he said

“Hallelujah!!!”

Truth.



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MUCH OBLIGED to Mhoward for already doing this mod and giving me his blessing to add it to my truck, and 410custom for agreeing to do it for me. Thank you both!!

Here is the link to Mhowards "how To thread"
https://ford-rangers.com/forum58/1802-1.html

"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

Now more goodies
We will be doing a console shifter in this rig no column shift!!
So to start we are using this setup from another ford


Packing peanuts!!!! Party foul. I hate these things……



Hiding in there was 2010 mariner console, wicked cool.
To go with it eddie sent me a  08 escape shifter and trim piece as well as new paint for the whole she bang bang
I get to hack this up and make it fit between our seats, as well as hide the Holley pcm

Muahhahahahaha


 


Nasty, going to need some serious cleaning and prep. It did come with all the parts and pads which is awesome!!

Our buddy @mhoward has already done this conversion before us so that is where the idea came from… really updates the interior. Will go well with our 2014’seats!!
I’m not sold on the escape shifter though it looks cool it is also 18”’tall! I may gut it and install an older stang shifter to make life easier but still look like the escape unit












this escape shifter does not have a metal gate at all, the whole assembly is plastic and COMPLETELY different it has park and brake interlock built in...... fun fun
I will be tackling this shifter install soon, right now I just need a dash, steering column and a drivers seat!!!!!!!!! hahahahahaha
the console and console shifter mod is next!!

Last edited on Fri Sep 16th, 2022 02:34 pm by Eddie Money



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

Interior paint color and adhesion promoter
Eddie is very thorough when he sends parts




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Eddie Money wrote:
"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

Interior paint color and adhesion promoter
Eddie is very thorough when he sends parts



So that's how it is done? Adhesion promoter and paint? Going to be interesting.

MMCM! (Michael's Mariner Console Mod) looking good!



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"


Allright I have made HUGE progress on this truck over the last few weeks, I am getting ready to turn the key for the first time and hopefully program the Holley and then..................................vroom


I have a few things left to do before that happens, working on this truck daily I have cleared the rest of my schedule until it is driving around.
Before all that though we need to get this thread up to speed, so this morning I am taking the time to post a big update!!!

I have about 60 pictures to post so this could take a bit

Preparing the interior for the dash to go back in. All wires to the Holley have been run, time has come for interior















those are the "before" pictures

dash was cleaned, interior of truck was cleaned, I scrubbed all the dirt off the floor under the floor mat and big vacuum and then everything was wiped down to remove years of dust and buildup

Before the dash could be bolted in I needed to make some repairs and run some wiring. The new seats were taken out so they can be heavily modified to fit back in.

wiring repairs, I hate vampire clips!!



somebody at one time had added some vampire clips to the ignition switch on this truck, typical practice in the audio/alarm industry....but not at my shop! These things lead to problems down the road....so I fixed it. remove the clips, leaving exposed wiring, perfect time for liquid electrical tape

clips removed

.

repaired



Now forgive me as I bounce around a bit, the last stages of this conversion has me working on several different areas at once, tying up loose ends. So I am posting in the order the pics were taken to keep it simple on my end

The radiator fan, shroud, and hoses have been installed (pics coming) so it was time to move onto the trans coolers to finish up the cooling stack. I am bypassing the tiny "cooler" in the radiator for a couple of reasons, this truck is not living in the arctic so it does not need to "preheat" the transmission fluid which is the main function of the small fluid/fluid cooler inside the radiator, also if our "made in Mexico" tig welded aluminum radiator fails we will not end up with water in our HPP 4r70w transmission!! (High Plains Performance). This is a tried and true method to keep the 4r70w cool, running two stock style coolers in series, then back to the trans.

Two factory coolers were cleaned, flushed, the fins repaired, then fitted to the core support



before




After


installed






the second coolers flange is bent straight for better mounting to the ranger


the second coolers flange is bent straight for better mounting to the ranger







return line is cut to length, filed, and a simple flare added









done



Last edited on Mon Sep 26th, 2022 05:57 pm by Eddie Money



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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"


As I mentioned the radiator, fan/clutch shroud and hoses have all been installed



using a 96-97 5.0 metal fan, these might be slightly heavier then the 98-01 nylon fans but these also do not crack over time 
fan and shroud cleaned / degreased, anti seize on the water pump threads and installed






overflow hose also installed. You can see I chose the stock MAS sensor wiring holder to now retain the Holley wide band 02 sensor connectors.

Now we jump around a bit because my neighbor came down to help me finish up the sliders and drop bracket supports that we were building together, we finally had time to finish those projects up. The rock sliders came out sooooo wicked!! Too bad they did not make them like this to begin with




supports bent and welded, now these bolt to the body/rocker seam









3 coats of paint over the modified areas/welds and now they can be final bolted to the truck!









solid as a rock (no pun) using the two factory slider mounts and three of the outrigger bars bent up and bolted. These are now 100%A bolted to the body (NO FRAME) and strong as heck!! More pics of those later

Also finishing the drivers side drop bracket support, remember we built these from the old T bars and T bar brackets




again more on that later (ran out of shielding gas on labor day weekend!!!




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"Added by eddie, posted by 410custom"

She will run, I want to hear the cam through the TMH mendrel, "catless dual" exhaust and spin techs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I have done a bunch more wiring.......... so back to the pics



First up I needed to finish the under hood wiring

The alternator power feed for the IVR (internal voltage regulator) is the yellow and white wire on v8 trucks this is headed to the power dist box and a 30 amp mini fuse. 2002+ trucks like our ranger here, this wire has fusible links internal and goes directly to the PJB battery + post.
I do not like the inline fusible links, so when I do these trucks I add a fuse to the stock fuse box (SJB smart junction box 05+ ranger)

The green/red wire is the feed from instrument cluster battery light to the IVR. These two wires are found in the 12 pin C139 connector on the truck side.
I ran two new wires from the ALT IVR to the truck and built a male side C139, now our engine functions will plug into the truck like factory




Alternator wiring cannot just be connected to the SJB

To add a fuse to the stock SJB I robbed a few wires and pigtails/fuses from another 05 Ranger harness I have (donor)

Before:














I added a 30 amp fuse for out alternator IVR feed AND I added 3 more..........wooooooohahhahaha
Now I have 3 fused feeds of battery + I can utilize simply by adding the fuse

The alternator IVR power wire does not just run directly to the SJB, in order to make it like factory and easier to remove the engine this wire is run through connector C139....more on that in a minute







red wire near brake booster is coming from new fuse, to truck side of C139 (female)
I created a new male C139 so our wiring will plug into the truck just like stock

The 5.0 harness uses a similar 12 pin plug, but it is also female....
Other wires that run through here are oil pressure switch to instrument cluster
dark green/white, careful here the dark green with white on the 5.0 side actually goes to the oil level / temp switch on the side of the pan. I ran a new wire directly from this plug to the stock oil pressure switch

AC high pressure switch is Red/Yellow and black/white, all of these wires pass through the the new male C139

white with pink and a black ground are also for the oil level switch, this truck is not equipped with.



While I am in here in the SJB, it is time to bypass the PATS control over the starter relay
This truck will have no PATS (Holley PCM) 07 Ranger PATS is part of the PCM and that went away







the starter relay ground control from PCM is right here, DB/OR
I will use a factory pigtail to create a new ground right near SJB




now the ignition switch has control over the starter relay

Alternator wiring was removed from engine, re-wrapped and then laid back in place.

One more thing to do to finish our 5.0 conversion wiring here at the SJB
5.0 battery harness leads for alternator charging wire and battery + terminals are the wrong shape to fit our 05 Ranger SJB



marked and carefully cut with a grinder, then file
Engine and truck were covered for the grinding event. These are soft metal? easy to cut
Also had to snip a little plastic


fits like factory

SJB is done...for now I may need to add some mini fuses as well as I install all of these electronics!!

Last edited on Mon Sep 26th, 2022 07:13 pm by Eddie Money



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