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What did you do to your Ranger today?       #: 49
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 Posted: Sat Dec 4th, 2021 10:34 pm
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mhoward
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Okay, so it only took 3 hours to remove the heater core... but it took 7 to put it back together!  All is good with new core, thermostat, housing and Prestone antifreeze!  This thing will roast you right out of the cab now!

New core at top.  Old core at bottom


My advice:  ONLY buy the Motorcraft unit.  The TYC was junk and with all the time and effort that it takes to get to it, use ONLY quality parts.  The Motorcraft unit was only $20 more than the TYC.

Relocated EATC aspirator connection


I tested the EATC aspirator and it now functions as it is supposed to.  I think that now, the EATC will maintain the proper temperature set point!



____________________
-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sat Dec 4th, 2021 10:39 pm
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mhoward
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Forgot to mention that I also had to replace this:

PCV Elbow w/PCV Valve


It's amazing how much smoother it idles now!  LMAO



____________________
-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sun Dec 5th, 2021 09:22 am
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mhoward wrote:
Okay, so it only took 3 hours to remove the heater core... but it took 7 to put it back together!  All is good with new core, thermostat, housing and Prestone antifreeze!  This thing will roast you right out of the cab now!

New core at top.  Old core at bottom


My advice:  ONLY buy the Motorcraft unit.  The TYC was junk and with all the time and effort that it takes to get to it, use ONLY quality parts.  The Motorcraft unit was only $20 more than the TYC.

Relocated EATC aspirator connection


I tested the EATC aspirator and it now functions as it is supposed to.  I think that now, the EATC will maintain the proper temperature set point!

Out of all the various repairs I have done, the heater core in my '98 Ranger was easily the worst ever.  Had to tear half the dash apart, what a pain in the ass.  After all that, no way was I putting a bargain part in there!

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 Posted: Sun Dec 5th, 2021 10:21 am
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mhoward
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@OB: I have bought and used many parts manufactured by TYC.  No problems with them... they seemed to be of reasonable quality and fitment was good.  The heater core was just the opposite, so the Motorcraft unit was the only way to go.  I agree; the heater core is probably the single worst repair on these trucks.  Obviously, it comes apart MUCH easier than it goes together!



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-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2021 08:05 pm
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Scrambler82
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mhoward wrote:
So, I'm still on the heater core replacement project.  Got the new core (TYC brand) and it was cheap, Chinese junk that wouldn't fit without modifying the heater plenum box and the core was only half as thick as the original.  Sent that back to Rock Auto and found a Motorcraft unit in stock from O'Reilly online (Rock Auto didn't have one in stock).  It came in yesterday.  Going to get this truck back together this weekend!!  Also, I signed up on ExplorerForum.com and got the info I needed to relocate the EATC aspirator hose, so that has been done and the old hole patched with a plastic disc and epoxy.
mhoward,

How did things go ?

A major project I am hoping never has to be done on my truck !



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2021 08:18 pm
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mhoward
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@Scrambler: It went well, actually.  Over twice as long to put it back together as it did to take it apart, but that is to be expected.  Added benefit of having the dash out was relocating the EATC aspirator to the OEM location.  It works as Ford intended it to.  While I was under the hood, I noticed the rubber PCV hose elbow had collapsed and cracked, causing a vacuum leak.  I replaced that and the rubber grommet in the valve cover where the PCV valve pushes in.  Amazing how much smoother the truck runs now! :-)



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-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Wed Dec 8th, 2021 11:54 pm
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Scrambler82
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mhoward wrote:
@Scrambler: It went well, actually.  Over twice as long to put it back together as it did to take it apart, but that is to be expected.  Added benefit of having the dash out was relocating the EATC aspirator to the OEM location.  It works as Ford intended it to.  While I was under the hood, I noticed the rubber PCV hose elbow had collapsed and cracked, causing a vacuum leak.  I replaced that and the rubber grommet in the valve cover where the PCV valve pushes in.  Amazing how much smoother the truck runs now! :-)
What is the "EATC Aspirator" and what difference does teh location make ?



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Thu Dec 9th, 2021 08:20 am
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mhoward
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In case you don't know, "EATC" stands for "Electronic Automatic Temperature Control"  That's the fancy HVAC controls you will find in higher-end Explorers, Expeditions, and the like.  The "EATC Aspirator" is a tube that draws air past a sensor that monitors the cabin temperature.  This is how the system maintains a constant temperature inside the truck based on the set point you choose, ie: 72 degrees.  If the tube is too long, or installed in the wrong location, it won't draw the air past the sensor, and therefore, a constant temperature cannot be maintained.  Mine is now located in the spot that FORD put it on Explorers, and it now functions as intended. :-)



____________________
-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Thu Dec 9th, 2021 11:38 am
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mhoward wrote:
In case you don't know, "EATC" stands for "Electronic Automatic Temperature Control"  That's the fancy HVAC controls you will find in higher-end Explorers, Expeditions, and the like.  The "EATC Aspirator" is a tube that draws air past a sensor that monitors the cabin temperature.  This is how the system maintains a constant temperature inside the truck based on the set point you choose, ie: 72 degrees.  If the tube is too long, or installed in the wrong location, it won't draw the air past the sensor, and therefore, a constant temperature cannot be maintained.  Mine is now located in the spot that FORD put it on Explorers, and it now functions as intended. :-)
OK, not a standard Ranger thing.
I am not looking forward to even replacing a heater Core.

Good to hear you are getting it done, having the truck apart isn't a good thing.

I will be adding the Puddle Lights under the door once they come in... backordered.
Still need to hook up the Directionals in the mirror glass, wires are almost there.

Also, need to pick the next "Do" on the Honey-Do List... I'm thinking the office shelving, just some piping and some of the Red Oak I picked up in a good deal I made.
One piece of the Red Oak is 11' long x 15.5" wide, it will be the top of the new mantel I will be building.
I'm running off at the brain again, take care, GOD Bless !



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Fri Dec 10th, 2021 08:48 am
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Scrambler82 wrote:

I will be adding the Puddle Lights under the door once they come in... backordered.
Still need to hook up the Directionals in the mirror glass, wires are almost there.

I really thought about doing this, it looks to be a simple mod, with good return.  I was going to do the lights under the mirrors, so it would light up when you hit unlock on the fob

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 Posted: Fri Dec 10th, 2021 09:30 am
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mhoward
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My son installed "puddle lights" in his 06 mirrors, along with turn signal LEDs and heated glass.  Sadly, those mirrors didn't survive the roll-over accident back in June.  They were really nice, would light up the area around the door rather well.  I agree, a good return on investment/worthwhile mod.



____________________
-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Fri Dec 10th, 2021 02:06 pm
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Scrambler82
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Ordinary Biker wrote:
Scrambler82 wrote:


I will be adding the Puddle Lights under the door once they come in... backordered.
Still need to hook up the Directionals in the mirror glass, wires are almost there.

I really thought about doing this, it looks to be a simple mod, with good return.  I was going to do the lights under the mirrors, so it would light up when you hit unlock on the fob


mhoward wrote:
My son installed "puddle lights" in his 06 mirrors, along with turn signal LEDs and heated glass.  Sadly, those mirrors didn't survive the roll-over accident back in June.  They were really nice, would light up the area around the door rather well.  I agree, a good return on investment/worthwhile mod.
I was going to add the Puddle Lights to the mirrors but I felt the room in the Mirror Body wasn't enough, the area closer to the door (the swivel mount) was available but as I said before I thought the lights (VLEDS) would give better light if mounted under the door.
I haven't checked the space between the door bottom and the sill but I will before starting the project. 
The VLEDs are very slim and the Bezel is 2 mm = .07+... just over 1/16th of an inch (.0625").
At that thickness I don't think there will be a problem.

Last edited on Fri Dec 10th, 2021 02:08 pm by Scrambler82



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Fri Dec 10th, 2021 02:09 pm
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mhoward
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At that size, I would think you could mount those lights anywhere you want to.



____________________
-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Fri Dec 10th, 2021 03:55 pm
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Scrambler82
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Ordinary Biker wrote:
Scrambler82 wrote:


I will be adding the Puddle Lights under the door once they come in... backordered.
Still need to hook up the Directionals in the mirror glass, wires are almost there.

I really thought about doing this, it looks to be a simple mod, with good return.  I was going to do the lights under the mirrors, so it would light up when you hit unlock on the fob


Where the light is mounted has nothing to do with how they are turned on, that's the wiring; to me where they are mounted is about how they light up the ground around the area where you want to walk.    On the mirror the light is blocked by the door, the light will light up the sidewalk but the road area once the door is opened will be blocked.    Mounting the lights under the door will get more light under the door and light up not only the immediate sidewalk but also the road area between the sidewalk and the vehicle.  They can be wired to the Fob Entry System, or like me just to the door opening.

The actual light spread will determine just how much much area is lighted but it should work, probably will work in either area.


mhoward wrote:
At that size, I would think you could mount those lights anywhere you want to.

True, I still want to see what space is under the door when closed.
$66 - 15% (first time order) + $5 Shipping... not too bad and will put out a lot of light.

I have to do some measuring before the seats go back In.

Last edited on Fri Dec 10th, 2021 04:12 pm by Scrambler82



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Fri Dec 10th, 2021 10:32 pm
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Scrambler82 wrote:
Ordinary Biker wrote:

I really thought about doing this, it looks to be a simple mod, with good return.  I was going to do the lights under the mirrors, so it would light up when you hit unlock on the fob

Where the light is mounted has nothing to do with how they are turned on, that's the wiring; to me where they are mounted is about how they light up the ground around the area where you want to walk.    On the mirror the light is blocked by the door, the light will light up the sidewalk but the road area once the door is opened will be blocked.    Mounting the lights under the door will get more light under the door and light up not only the immediate sidewalk but also the road area between the sidewalk and the vehicle.  They can be wired to the Fob Entry System, or like me just to the door opening.

The actual light spread will determine just how much much area is lighted but it should work, probably will work in either area.



Yes, thank you I know what would control what would turn them on.  It would be tied to the dome light because it comes on when the truck is unlocked.  I am not interested in putting them under the door because I am interested in lighting up the area by the door as I walk up

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 Posted: Sat Dec 11th, 2021 03:34 pm
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Ordinary Biker wrote:
Scrambler82 wrote:

Ordinary Biker wrote:


I really thought about doing this, it looks to be a simple mod, with good return.  I was going to do the lights under the mirrors, so it would light up when you hit unlock on the fob

Where the light is mounted has nothing to do with how they are turned on, that's the wiring; to me where they are mounted is about how they light up the ground around the area where you want to walk.    On the mirror the light is blocked by the door, the light will light up the sidewalk but the road area once the door is opened will be blocked.    Mounting the lights under the door will get more light under the door and light up not only the immediate sidewalk but also the road area between the sidewalk and the vehicle.  They can be wired to the Fob Entry System, or like me just to the door opening.

The actual light spread will determine just how much much area is lighted but it should work, probably will work in either area.



Yes, thank you I know what would control what would turn them on.  It would be tied to the dome light because it comes on when the truck is unlocked.  I am not interested in putting them under the door because I am interested in lighting up the area by the door as I walk up

That is a good point but only works IF you have the auto lock/unlock system, which I do not have  !

Thanks for the input.



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sat Dec 11th, 2021 04:13 pm
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mhoward
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Scrambler82 wrote:
That is a good point but only works IF you have the auto lock/unlock system, which I do not have  !

Thanks for the input.

So you don't have keyless entry?  Just curious then; how do you plan on turning the puddle lights on before you get to the truck?  Just FYI: most likely you could enable keyless entry (FOB access) using FORScan and buy a couple of FOBs on eBay and program them.



____________________
-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Mon Dec 13th, 2021 07:34 pm
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mhoward wrote:
Scrambler82 wrote:

That is a good point but only works IF you have the auto lock/unlock system, which I do not have  !

Thanks for the input.

So you don't have keyless entry?  Just curious then; how do you plan on turning the puddle lights on before you get to the truck?  Just FYI: most likely you could enable keyless entry (FOB access) using FORScan and buy a couple of FOBs on eBay and program them.


Ya no Auto Unlock

My plan, let the lights come on when the door is open;  that doesn't work for you ?

I didn't even think about it.

To tell the truth, I may not do it.  Our weather is sunny, sunny, and sunny, no snow, no major puddles.
Not sure where to go.

Ltr



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Tue Dec 14th, 2021 08:50 am
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I could be mistaken, but I thought the puddle lights were intended to light the door area of the vehicle so you wouldn't step in a puddle (or hole), coming on with the dome light when you unlock the vehicle with the key FOB.  Anyway, you should look into keyless entry, assuming you have power door locks.  My truck had power door locks, didn't come with FOBs, but was keyless entry ready.  Here's an easy way to see if you are already set up (and program FOBs if you have them):

NOTE: This procedure assumes you have OEM power door locks

1. Close all doors, then open your driver side door and press the Unlock button on the drivers door while it is open

2. Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 10 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. The door locks will lock and unlock to confirm that you have entered programming mode.  If the door locks do not cycle you should try it again but faster. If they still do not cycle, your vehicle may not have keyless entry)

3. Within 8 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming.  If you only have one remote then skip to step 5

4. Within 8 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 4 for any remaining remotes (up to 4 remote FOBs total)

5. Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode

NOTE: If the FOB does not respond, it is possible it is using the wrong frequency (433MHz vs. 315MHz).  Most FOBs can be set to use either frequency by entering the programming mode as outlined above, then:

Press and hold both the Lock and Unlock buttons
Press and hold the Panic button
The frequency will change and program the FOB to the vehicle
The door locks will cycle, indicating the frequency change and the FOB programming was successful


Anyway, give this a try.  Less than five minutes to do it! :-)



____________________
-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Tue Dec 14th, 2021 11:58 am
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I don't think you are wrong and I do think Puddle Lights would work better with Electric Locks.

Maybe I am thinking along the wrong lines and I will stop and rethink it.

My future plan is for electric locks BUTT, I haven't got that far.

If I decide not to do the Lights in the doors I will save some time and get on with my other projects... Honey-Do List.

Thanks for your mentioning this, I will give it some more thought.

Ltr / Merry Christmas



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Tue Dec 14th, 2021 11:57 pm
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JAMMAN

Owns A Torsen


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mhoward wrote:
I could be mistaken, but I thought the puddle lights were intended to light the door area of the vehicle so you wouldn't step in a puddle (or hole), coming on with the dome light when you unlock the vehicle with the key FOB.  Anyway, you should look into keyless entry, assuming you have power door locks.  My truck had power door locks, didn't come with FOBs, but was keyless entry ready.  Here's an easy way to see if you are already set up (and program FOBs if you have them):

NOTE: This procedure assumes you have OEM power door locks

1. Close all doors, then open your driver side door and press the Unlock button on the drivers door while it is open

2. Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 10 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. The door locks will lock and unlock to confirm that you have entered programming mode.  If the door locks do not cycle you should try it again but faster. If they still do not cycle, your vehicle may not have keyless entry)

3. Within 8 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming.  If you only have one remote then skip to step 5

4. Within 8 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 4 for any remaining remotes (up to 4 remote FOBs total)

5. Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode

NOTE: If the FOB does not respond, it is possible it is using the wrong frequency (433MHz vs. 315MHz).  Most FOBs can be set to use either frequency by entering the programming mode as outlined above, then:

Press and hold both the Lock and Unlock buttons
Press and hold the Panic button
The frequency will change and program the FOB to the vehicle
The door locks will cycle, indicating the frequency change and the FOB programming was successful


Anyway, give this a try.  Less than five minutes to do it! :-)

This is so detailed I am posting it to the "how to" section.



____________________
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
The future belongs to those who show up.
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 Posted: Wed Dec 15th, 2021 08:31 am
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mhoward
Hey look ~ they ~ bounce!


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JAMMAN wrote:
This is so detailed I am posting it to the "how to" section.
I thought we already did, but maybe I'm thinking of something else.  Good to see you, Jim! :-)



____________________
-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Wed Dec 15th, 2021 12:41 pm
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Scrambler82
Old Bastard !


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mhoward wrote:
JAMMAN wrote:

This is so detailed I am posting it to the "how to" section.
I thought we already did, but maybe I'm thinking of something else.  Good to see you, Jim! :-)

"SEE you" !

Are you guys using FaceTime ???   LoL !

We are coming up to the latest tech here !

I didn't think about the Puddle Lights coming on before the door was open.   I thought as long as you can see once the door IS open, then it was OK !

I still think a light, under the door will work OK but I guessing some might not call it a PUDDLE light.

I'm also thinking, smell the smoke, adding another light, a RED one installed in the outer edge of the door, approximately half way up the door, actuated when the door is open... as a safety warning light.

I know, too much thinking.

Thanks for the input about Puddle Lights, you got me thinking.



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Wed Dec 15th, 2021 12:59 pm
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mhoward
Hey look ~ they ~ bounce!


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Scrambler82 wrote:
I'm also thinking, smell the smoke, adding another light, a RED one installed in the outer edge of the door, approximately half way up the door, actuated when the door is open... as a safety warning light.
That is actually a "feature" on some vehicles.



____________________
-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Wed Dec 15th, 2021 02:00 pm
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Scrambler82
Old Bastard !


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mhoward wrote:
Scrambler82 wrote:

I'm also thinking, smell the smoke, adding another light, a RED one installed in the outer edge of the door, approximately half way up the door, actuated when the door is open... as a safety warning light.
That is actually a "feature" on some vehicles.

Interesting, didn't know that either; got to get out of these hills more often !   LoL !

Just another thing to add to the list... while the doors are wide open !



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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