All ideas are welcome. - General Ranger Discussion - Welcome To Our Ford Ranger Forum

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squirrelhunter
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That's what it looks like.

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1994 F150 XLT
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Posted: Tue Dec 1st, 2020 05:52 pm

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Idahome

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found this tool made for this application
https://www.amazon.com/BestTeam-Universal-Spanner-Adjustable-Citroen/dp/B07QVP9VLV/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=automotive+tools+fuel+tank+4+prong+tool&qid=1606861896&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/BestTeam-Universal-Spanner-Adjustable-Citroen/dp/B07QWPF4YJ/ref=sr_1_52?dchild=1&keywords=automotive+tools&qid=1606861693&sr=8-52

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squirrelhunter

Posted: Tue Dec 1st, 2020 07:02 pm

28^th Post

squirrelhunter
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410customs wrote:
found this tool made for this application
https://www.amazon.com/BestTeam-Universal-Spanner-Adjustable-Citroen/dp/B07QVP9VLV/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=automotive+tools+fuel+tank+4+prong+tool&qid=1606861896&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/BestTeam-Universal-Spanner-Adjustable-Citroen/dp/B07QWPF4YJ/ref=sr_1_52?dchild=1&keywords=automotive+tools&qid=1606861693&sr=8-52
I saw some with the 2 tab ones not the 4 though. I wasn't sure if the 2 tab one would work,the ones I checked wouldn't spread wide enough.Thanks though. I happened to get the ring off today,the AeroKroil and brass center punch did the trick. Now to manipulate it to get the pump out.
This stuff is good.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/352779186421

Last edited on Tue Dec 1st, 2020 07:02 pm by squirrelhunter

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1994 F150 XLT
1999 Ranger XLT 4x4

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410customs

Posted: Wed Dec 2nd, 2020 03:59 pm

29^th Post

squirrelhunter
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Well,good news and bad news. The good news is I got the new pump in and hooked up,bad news is it still isn't kicking in. After I was stumped for a minute I realized I forgot to put the relay back in,but even after that it didn't help. I was getting voltage at the pump when I turned the key on but it may not be enough. Guess I should've checked the electrical system out beforehand but I don't really like working on electrical things plus I'm not sure how these newfangled electric fuel systems work with all the computerized crap on them now days and stuff. Give me a carburetor,old style distributor and manual fuel pump and I'll be happy. Guess I'll have to get out of the 70s some day :whatever:

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Posted: Wed Dec 2nd, 2020 07:24 pm

30^th Post

Tsquare
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Check the roll-over button. Back when I had my 99 Lariat I had it die while rolling down the road. Called a wrecker to haul it in and the wrecker driver reset my roll-over button and it cranked back up. He charged me $50 instead of the $150 it was going to cost to haul it to a mechanic.

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Posted: Wed Dec 2nd, 2020 07:40 pm

31^st Post

squirrelhunter
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Tsquare wrote:
Check the roll-over button. Back when I had my 99 Lariat I had it die while rolling down the road. Called a wrecker to haul it in and the wrecker driver reset my roll-over button and it cranked back up. He charged me $50 instead of the $150 it was going to cost to haul it to a mechanic.
That's what I was going to check first,might be a day or 2 though,this time of month is extremely busy for me. Thanks.

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Posted: Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 01:37 pm

32^nd Post

squirrelhunter
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The reset button was already down but I tapped the side until it popped up and then I reset it but it's still not working. I'll have to just check the system over until I find the problem. :whatever:

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Posted: Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 06:42 pm

33^rd Post

squirrelhunter
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I saw something today that just don't add up unless there's some kind of voltage booster somewhere but I doubt there is. I'm getting 20 volts at 2 of the wires at the pump relay when I turn the key on. I wondering if there's some wires shorting out or if the ignition switch is bad. Until I can find the test procedure in a repair manual,if I have 1 with it in it :whatever:

and do some testing I won't know for sure. But 20 volts in a 12 volt system,something don't sound right? I'm going to double check it with my analog volt meter instead of the digital,see if it says the same thing.

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Posted: Fri Dec 4th, 2020 08:56 am

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Idahome

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yes do check that it should be battery power, 12 something volts
The way this system works is the EEC (PCM) fuse and relay kick on with the ignition switch thus powering the PCM
The PCM then energizes the fuel pump relay
The fuel pump relay has its own dedicated fuse and the power is sent through the inertia switch
power is then sent to the fuel pump
It should be battery power, not more

You can always put 12V directly to the fuel pump and see if it runs
Then test the truck side of things for the 12V (like you did)
This should be done before you pull the old pump LOL, but you know I had to learn the hard way and replace a bunch of pumps that actually worked to find out I should have tested the electrical side of the truck things first LOL
Fuel pump fuse and relay are suspect
Inertia switch can be bypassed (jumpered) for testing purposes

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Posted: Fri Dec 4th, 2020 08:58 am

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Idahome

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Posted: Fri Dec 4th, 2020 09:32 am

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squirrelhunter
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I was only getting 5 volts at the pump and inertia switch but then I read somewhere that the RPM sensor would drop the voltage after 2 seconds and I didn't have anybody to help me. All the fuses checked ok but I think I'll check them again. I thought about jumping the inertia switch but I don't like doing that on computerized vehicles because in some cases if you jump the wrong things you'll fry the computer. I just hope 1 of my manuals cover diagnosing the electrical system of the fuel pump circuit. I've ran into it before when I was working on a system that a manual I bought talked about how it worked and would say something like check pressures here and there but didn't say how to check the electrical system. I've bought 2 or 3 different manuals and none would actually have a detailed instructions of what I was working on,even Ford repair manuals,you need several these days it seems to cover it all. I always like Chiltons before but now they just cover basic information.

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Posted: Fri Dec 4th, 2020 09:42 am

37^th Post

Idahome

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5v is correct after the PCM stops energizing the fuel pump. When you first turn the key the pump will prime, during that time you should see 12V at the pump

The inertia switch is simply a pass through for the power wire, no harm will come from jumpering it.

The system in your 94 is not complex
The pump gets 12V and sends about 45-50 psi of fuel to the fuel rail and injectors. The fuel pressure regulator then allows anything over 36 psi to return to the tank.

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squirrelhunter

Posted: Fri Dec 4th, 2020 10:13 am

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squirrelhunter
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Oh,I forgot to mention I switched the relays around,they're all 3 the same part# but the results were the same. I had some strange ohm readings in the inertia switch so I'll try jumping it and I'll pick up some long wire to try and see if the pump will run if I hook it directly to the battery,hopefully I can figure out with prong to hook it too. It shouldn't be hard especially if I just follow the wires up on the old pump. I might check it out too but I bet it'll work too,won't be the first time I changed a good part :brute

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Posted: Fri Dec 4th, 2020 03:47 pm

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squirrelhunter
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None of my manuals cover pinpoint tests of the electrical system of the fuel system,if anybody knows of a manual that covers it please let me know,something with more than just a wiring diagram please. When it comes to electrical circuits I need all the help I can get lol.

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Posted: Sun Dec 6th, 2020 05:31 pm

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squirrelhunter
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The new pump and old pump work when hooked directly to the battery so it's got electrical problems in the truck circuits somewhere. I hooked the code reader to it,which I never had trouble with it before,but now it doesn't do anything. It's got a red light and alarm on it which always come on until I switch it from "hold" to "test" and after I switch it they go off and it starts flashing codes but not now,it doesn't send any codes. I tried unhooking the negative battery cable for awhile,50 minutes,to reset the PCM but that didn't help either. I need to find a factory drive train/emissions diagnostic service manual to check it out because I don't want to spend the money for a new PCM just to find out that wasn't the problem,that it was a bad wire or connector instead. This is not going to be an easy fix I don't think. The wife said just but a new truck,meaning different used truck,I said you can't buy a new truck for $200,even for parts......anything running will be over $500. I sure as hell can't afford to send it to a garage either,coming up with the money for a PCM is hard enough,let alone paying somebody $60 an hour :-(

. This is not good news at all. Now to find a manual :brute

.

P.S. I found 1 online for $8.99.

Last edited on Sun Dec 6th, 2020 09:04 pm by squirrelhunter

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Posted: Thu Dec 10th, 2020 06:47 pm

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squirrelhunter
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It's got a short between the EEC system and this fuse in the interior fuse box. It only shorts with the ignition key turned on. I don't have the cover for the fuse box or the owners manual and I've gotten 4 different answers of what this fuse is for from looking at diagrams online. The fun part is going to be finding out what this fuse is for,then finding the short.

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Posted: Thu Dec 10th, 2020 11:33 pm

42^nd Post

VelociRanger
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I will do some searching and try to help figure out what that fuse is for

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squirrelhunter

Posted: Fri Dec 11th, 2020 12:38 am

43^rd Post

squirrelhunter
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Thanks.

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Posted: Fri Dec 11th, 2020 09:37 am

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Idahome

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fuse 7
electronic shift control, warning chime module, low oil level relay, instrument cluster

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Posted: Fri Dec 11th, 2020 11:17 am

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squirrelhunter
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Yeah that was what 1 of the diagrams I found showed too but then another 1 said heated rear view mirrors,which I don't have,another said A/C and another said all wheel drive and instrument cluster so I wasn't sure which to go by. Thanks.

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Posted: Sat Dec 12th, 2020 11:08 am

46^th Post

Idahome

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Good luck hunting down the short..... these trucks are getting older and these things happen!!

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squirrelhunter

Posted: Sat Dec 12th, 2020 03:15 pm

47^th Post

squirrelhunter
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Yep. I'm trying to find the PCM now,it's not behind the passenger side kick panel that I can see,it looks like by all the wires that it's up on top between the radio and glove box but I'm not positive. Since this truck's dash is pretty much all 1 piece,I can't just take the top off like in other trucks.

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Posted: Sat Dec 12th, 2020 05:07 pm

48^th Post

VelociRanger
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My 08 pcm is in the engine bay on the passengers side firewall

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squirrelhunter

Posted: Sat Dec 12th, 2020 09:07 pm

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squirrelhunter
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I didn't know they ever put them in the engine compartment,but I've only had 4 vehicles with computers and have only worked on 2 of them so far until now,this in my 3rd.
I still need to find an Emissions/Powertrain diagnostics manual for this one so I can check everything out,that actually shows how to test everything instead of just how to get codes,since my truck don't give codes anymore. I'm beginning to think I'm out of luck.

Last edited on Sat Dec 12th, 2020 09:12 pm by squirrelhunter

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Posted: Sun Dec 13th, 2020 12:39 am

50^th Post

VelociRanger
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Are your gauges working? Anti theft flashing rapidly? If yes to both, I had the same issue on my 08 (yes I know what different styles but hey) and the dealer was going to replace the pcm. Turns out, inside under the dash there is a fairly large connector that seems to connect everything in cab to the pcm in the engine bay. Mine is right above my clutch pedal, and after kicking it accidentally for years it came loose and the truck wouldn't start. Try checking under the dash on the driver side for any sort of connection and make sure it's good. Trust me, it sounds dumb saying it but it happened to me

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