Which Transfer Case Adapter? - General Ranger Discussion - Welcome To Our Ford Ranger Forum

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410customs wrote:
add the wire from trans to pin 33, then make sure its connected to your Gem. Check your fuses and lets see if the Low shift is fixed!
Might not hurt to see the signal from the DTRS, meaning check that the new wire gets grounded when you switch the trans into N
fingers crossed
Update: running that wire to the explorer side of that harness to the DTRS did not fix the problem..

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Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 02:05 pm

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Dang!!

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Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 02:13 pm

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410customs wrote:
Dang!!
I'm fed up with it. Going to put a manual case in it. How do I get the lights to work on the dash?

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Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 02:24 pm

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I would suggest trying a different shift motor now since you said it got hot, I understand your fed up with it.

I would like to find a testing procedure for these Ranger ESOF systems instead of always trying to rebuild/adjust and swap motors....but I am not familiar.
You can check at the motor harness and see voltage changes on the signal wires when the dash switch is changed. If you see a voltage change for the low shift then that would tell us your NSS and BOO circuits are hooked up correctly and the problem is the shift motor
I wish they were more like the superduties and OBS Ford trucks, those motors simply use one relay to turn one direction and another relay to turn the other...simple ESOF the Ranger system with the controller and GEM is a PITA. Even with that said 99.9% of the time the problem is the shift motor.

All of the trucks I have converted to 4x have been manual case because I almost refuse to give up 5 gallons of fuel in an explorer just to have a 4x4 switch on the dash (Explorers need smaller fuel tank to clear electronic shift motor)

I don't blame you for going manual case especially for $175?? That's junk yard price!! Very good price (I love manual 4406 very much, they are awesome)
but if you have the means, try a different 1354 motor.......It SHOULD be working now.....

Last edited on Wed Dec 5th, 2018 02:38 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 02:29 pm

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410customs wrote:
I would suggest trying a different shift motor now since you said it got hot, I understand your fed up with it.

I would like to find a testing procedure for these Ranger ESOF systems instead of always trying to rebuild/adjust and swap motors....but I am not familiar.
I wish they were more like the superduties and OBS Ford trucks, those motors simply use one relay to turn one direction and another relay to turn the other...simple ESOF the Ranger system with the controller and GEM is a PITA. Even with that said 99.9% of the time the problem is the shift motor.

All of the trucks I have converted to 4x have been manual case because I almost refuse to give up 5 gallons of fuel in an explorer just to have a 4x4 switch on the dash (Explorers need smaller fuel tank to clear electronic shift motor)

I don't blame you for going manual case especially for $175?? That's junk yard price!! Very good price (I love manual 4406 very much, they are awesome)
but if you have the means, try a different 1354 motor.......It SHOULD be working now.....
So you don't know how to wire up the 4WD lights?

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Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 02:34 pm

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Yes its too easy, I thought the info was in the link I posted earlier to my explorer 4x4 conversion

There are two wires at the gem one for low range one for high range, these are the feeds to the dash lights

Cut them so they are no longer hooked to gem and wire them directly to the hi low switch on your new t case

The new t case comes with a simple switch and two wires
The switch sends a ground down one wire for high range
and again down the other for low range These go directly to the instrument cluster
The reason you cut them so the Gem can no longer control the lights is so you don't get flashing hi and low range lights from your stupid ESOF system...

I run the two wires up through the floor next to the new shifter, under the carpet, behind the dash right to the gem

Last edited on Wed Dec 5th, 2018 02:39 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 03:26 pm

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410customs wrote:
Yes its too easy, I thought the info was in the link I posted earlier to my explorer 4x4 conversion

There are two wires at the gem one for low range one for high range, these are the feeds to the dash lights

Cut them so they are no longer hooked to gem and wire them directly to the hi low switch on your new t case

The new t case comes with a simple switch and two wires
The switch sends a ground down one wire for high range
and again down the other for low range These go directly to the instrument cluster
The reason you cut them so the Gem can no longer control the lights is so you don't get flashing hi and low range lights from your stupid ESOF system...

I run the two wires up through the floor next to the new shifter, under the carpet, behind the dash right to the gem
I'm assuming I needed the explorer shifter.. the F-150 one just showed up and it looks way wrong

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Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 03:46 pm

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410customs wrote:
Yes its too easy, I thought the info was in the link I posted earlier to my explorer 4x4 conversion

There are two wires at the gem one for low range one for high range, these are the feeds to the dash lights

Cut them so they are no longer hooked to gem and wire them directly to the hi low switch on your new t case

The new t case comes with a simple switch and two wires
The switch sends a ground down one wire for high range
and again down the other for low range These go directly to the instrument cluster
The reason you cut them so the Gem can no longer control the lights is so you don't get flashing hi and low range lights from your stupid ESOF system...

I run the two wires up through the floor next to the new shifter, under the carpet, behind the dash right to the gem
Also the case I got is from a 1997 F-150 it appears. Is that going to cause any issues?

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Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 07:49 pm

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NO as long as your 97 F150 uses a AODE or 4r70w your good to go, just ignore the speed sensor

The explorer/ranger 1354 t case shifter will not even come close to working
Lets see the shifter you were sent??
Let me see if I can get a pic of the shifter you need

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Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 07:51 pm

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Here is the shifter arm itself and the shifter linkage rod direct from Ford

Diagram of stock parts:

The hardest part to source is the shifter mechanism itself:

In my old 96 Explorer 5.0L 3" body lift, 2" torsion twist, 33" tires, geo tracker shifter boot

Far away from console

Last edited on Wed Dec 5th, 2018 08:06 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Mon Dec 10th, 2018 10:38 am

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410customs wrote:
Here is the shifter arm itself and the shifter linkage rod direct from Ford

Diagram of stock parts:

The hardest part to source is the shifter mechanism itself:

In my old 96 Explorer 5.0L 3" body lift, 2" torsion twist, 33" tires, geo tracker shifter boot

Far away from console

4406M is installed. Ended up bringing the shifter up through the center console so it doesn't hit my leg. Now trying to source a connector for the 4WD position sensor

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Posted: Mon Dec 10th, 2018 01:04 pm

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I also did not have the connector so I just made one used two small pins to plug into sensor then filled the cavity with silicoln

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Posted: Wed Dec 12th, 2018 08:10 am

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410customs wrote:
I also did not have the connector so I just made one used two small pins to plug into sensor then filled the cavity with silicoln
Is there any trick to shifting these cases? I've never owned a vehicle with a floor shift 4x4. I know you have to be in neutral to go into 4low, but it seems like no matter what I do I get some sort of grind

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Posted: Wed Dec 12th, 2018 10:35 am

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I seem to remember mine grinding into low range from time to time

Pretty sure the brown wire needs to be hooked up to fix that grinding I never hooked mine up instead I turn truck off shift into low then start up again and no grinding

Read this see if it helps

I found this:
What Ford has to say:
The 4406 manual shift and electronics shift transfer cases are three-piece magnesium design. Under normal driving conditions the unit is in 2H, but when desired, the operator may shift into 4H or 4L. The operator may shift from 2H to 4H or from 4H to 2H at any speed up to 88km'h (55mph). The vehicle must be less than 5km/h (3mph), the brake applied, and the transmission in NEUTRAL to shift into 4L. The unit is lubricated by a positive displacement fluid pump that channels fluid flow through holes in the rear output shaft.

The electromagnetic clutch is located inside the case. The clutch is used to spin up the front driveshaft when shifting from 2H to 4H at speed. When the shift lever is moved, it activates the 4WD indicator switch, 4WD electric clutch relay, and the clutch itself. When the TC front and rear output shafts are synchronized, the spring loaded lockup collar mechanically engages the mainshaft hub to the drive sprocket. Finally, the front axle collar is engaged and the clutch is deactivated.

The transfer case is set up as such:
a) 2H -> 4H -> TC Neutral -> 4L
b) 4L -> TC Neutral -> 4H -> 2H

Shift Knob:
1). When in 2H the floor shifter is pointed towards the dash. The TC lever is pointed all the way back towards the rear of the vehicle.

2). When in 4H the floor shifter is in the middle (pointing towards the sky) The TC lever is also pointed up.

3). When in 4L the floor shifter is towards the drivers seat. The TC lever is pointed towards the front of the vehicle.

Switching Ranges:
2H - 4H: Vehicle can be moving but must be traveling less than 45-60mph. While putting along, under light to moderate throttle shift from 2H - 4H.

4H - 4L: Stop the vehicle. You CANNOT Shift on the FLY from 4H to 4L. Place transmission in Neutral (maybe even Park if you're having grindage). Wait 10 seconds. Place TC in 4L. Place transmission in gear. You're now good to go.

4L - 4H: Stop the vehicle. You CANNOT Shift on the FLY from 4L to 4H. Place transmission in Neutral (maybe even Park if you're having grindage). Wait 10 seconds. Place TC in Neutral. Wait 10 seconds. Pace TC in 4H. Place transmission in gear. You're now good to go.

4H - 2H: Vehicle can be moving but must be traveling less than 45-60mph. While putting along, under light to moderate throttle shift from 4H - 2L.

2H - 4L: Bad.. Don't do this..

4L - 2H: Bad.. Don't do this..

Towing:
If the transfer case is in the Neutral position then both front and rear driveshaft are unlocked and the vehicle can be towed with all 4 wheels on the ground.

Fluid:
The BW 4406 uses MercronV? apx 2 quarts..

Shift Linkage:
How does the shift linkage "feel". When I pull back from 2H to 4H, there's a distinct click. If I continue to pull back I would hit a shift block/stop keeping me from accidentally placing the TC into TC Neutral. To go into 4L from 4H I have to move the shift linkage towards my leg, pull down, pull towards console, and pull down into 4L passing straight through TC Neutral. Conversely If I am in 4L I pull to my leg and place in TC Neutral, pull towards console and place in 4H. From 4H I push towards dash into 2H.

Sloppy Feeling:
When I spin the input shaft (coming from the transmission) with the TC in 2H, there is minimal free play between the input shaft and rear driveshaft. Is this normal?

When I spin the input shaft (coming from the transmission) with the TC in 4H, there is a fair bit free play between the input shaft and rear driveshaft and a lot of in the front driveshaft. Is this normal?

When I spin the input shaft (coming from the transmission) with the TC in 4L, there is a small amount free play between the input shaft and rear driveshaft and a small amount in the front driveshaft. Is this normal?

Ratio:
2H 1:1
4H 1:1
4L 2.75:1 (approximately)

Last edited on Wed Dec 12th, 2018 10:37 am by 410customs

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Posted: Wed Dec 12th, 2018 11:18 am

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410customs wrote:
I seem to remember mine grinding into low range from time to time

Pretty sure the brown wire needs to be hooked up to fix that grinding I never hooked mine up instead I turn truck off shift into low then start up again and no grinding

Read this see if it helps

I found this:
What Ford has to say:
The 4406 manual shift and electronics shift transfer cases are three-piece magnesium design. Under normal driving conditions the unit is in 2H, but when desired, the operator may shift into 4H or 4L. The operator may shift from 2H to 4H or from 4H to 2H at any speed up to 88km'h (55mph). The vehicle must be less than 5km/h (3mph), the brake applied, and the transmission in NEUTRAL to shift into 4L. The unit is lubricated by a positive displacement fluid pump that channels fluid flow through holes in the rear output shaft.

The electromagnetic clutch is located inside the case. The clutch is used to spin up the front driveshaft when shifting from 2H to 4H at speed. When the shift lever is moved, it activates the 4WD indicator switch, 4WD electric clutch relay, and the clutch itself. When the TC front and rear output shafts are synchronized, the spring loaded lockup collar mechanically engages the mainshaft hub to the drive sprocket. Finally, the front axle collar is engaged and the clutch is deactivated.

The transfer case is set up as such:
a) 2H -> 4H -> TC Neutral -> 4L
b) 4L -> TC Neutral -> 4H -> 2H

Shift Knob:
1). When in 2H the floor shifter is pointed towards the dash. The TC lever is pointed all the way back towards the rear of the vehicle.

2). When in 4H the floor shifter is in the middle (pointing towards the sky) The TC lever is also pointed up.

3). When in 4L the floor shifter is towards the drivers seat. The TC lever is pointed towards the front of the vehicle.

Switching Ranges:
2H - 4H: Vehicle can be moving but must be traveling less than 45-60mph. While putting along, under light to moderate throttle shift from 2H - 4H.

4H - 4L: Stop the vehicle. You CANNOT Shift on the FLY from 4H to 4L. Place transmission in Neutral (maybe even Park if you're having grindage). Wait 10 seconds. Place TC in 4L. Place transmission in gear. You're now good to go.

4L - 4H: Stop the vehicle. You CANNOT Shift on the FLY from 4L to 4H. Place transmission in Neutral (maybe even Park if you're having grindage). Wait 10 seconds. Place TC in Neutral. Wait 10 seconds. Pace TC in 4H. Place transmission in gear. You're now good to go.

4H - 2H: Vehicle can be moving but must be traveling less than 45-60mph. While putting along, under light to moderate throttle shift from 4H - 2L.

2H - 4L: Bad.. Don't do this..

4L - 2H: Bad.. Don't do this..

Towing:
If the transfer case is in the Neutral position then both front and rear driveshaft are unlocked and the vehicle can be towed with all 4 wheels on the ground.

Fluid:
The BW 4406 uses MercronV? apx 2 quarts..

Shift Linkage:
How does the shift linkage "feel". When I pull back from 2H to 4H, there's a distinct click. If I continue to pull back I would hit a shift block/stop keeping me from accidentally placing the TC into TC Neutral. To go into 4L from 4H I have to move the shift linkage towards my leg, pull down, pull towards console, and pull down into 4L passing straight through TC Neutral. Conversely If I am in 4L I pull to my leg and place in TC Neutral, pull towards console and place in 4H. From 4H I push towards dash into 2H.

Sloppy Feeling:
When I spin the input shaft (coming from the transmission) with the TC in 2H, there is minimal free play between the input shaft and rear driveshaft. Is this normal?

When I spin the input shaft (coming from the transmission) with the TC in 4H, there is a fair bit free play between the input shaft and rear driveshaft and a lot of in the front driveshaft. Is this normal?

When I spin the input shaft (coming from the transmission) with the TC in 4L, there is a small amount free play between the input shaft and rear driveshaft and a small amount in the front driveshaft. Is this normal?

Ratio:
2H 1:1
4H 1:1
4L 2.75:1 (approximately)
Maybe it's because I'm not passing straight through neutral when going into 4low

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Posted: Sun Dec 16th, 2018 10:35 am

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Idahome

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Maybe!! It could be because we do not hookup the brown wire in the Ranger also...
Let us know what you find out, I am sure many many Ranger people going down this same road will come across this thread.

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