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2000 v8 swap       #: 2187
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 Posted: Thu Oct 22nd, 2020 06:15 pm
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What a day.. a good productive day! Got the headers back on..inner fender back on..front FEAD on.. waiting on new injector connectors, need to get spark plugs, and a fuel pump... weld in the wideban bung.. and see if it starts. 
 Thennnn.... work on the hydraulic clutch stuff and exhaust. Then have it dyno tuned!!

 Oh..I I went ahead and put my new OEM Ford Motorcraft coolant tank on.. got it on Ebay, 39 bucks shipped







 But wait.. then there was this... OOPS! LOL 



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 Posted: Sat Oct 24th, 2020 07:21 pm
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Junglejoe
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Well my new injector clips came in and they fit! So thats good....
 They came on an injector harness  but all I needed were the shells. So I took them apart and inserted my wires into them. Worked out perfect!







 Now to put the upper intake on, some small wiring and vacume lines hooked up.. see if it starts before I go any further



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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2020 03:36 pm
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Ok.... making progress I think! Lol
 Got the injector clips on... hooking up the accessories  on the intake...


I cant remember where these brackets went... any idea?

 I painted this one..so Im thinking it goes somewhere around the tb or coil packs..?



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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2020 07:00 pm
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Got a lot done today.. still need to figure out some small things...
Tidy up on some of the wiring..small stuff.

Then work on the hydraulic  clutch bracket and clutch stuff







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 Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2020 06:15 pm
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Welp... Just got off the phone with Bob  over at Torque Monster headers.. 
I bought my headers  used and the rear last tube on the driver side was hacked up.. I had another tube welded on..but its not going to work. Can't get the rear spark plug in. So Im taking it off and sending the one header to Bob so he can fix it...  thats all for now..☕

Last edited on Mon Oct 26th, 2020 06:15 pm by Junglejoe



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 Posted: Tue Oct 27th, 2020 05:45 pm
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Ok.. last couple of things...
 By the way.. thanks EVERYONE for the help.
Especially  410.. You have helped me TREMENDOUSLY  with hooking up stuff and wiring..

 So first is the black and white vacume line pair... it goes to driver side vacume line to thw truck?







Then the passenger side..?



Is that correct?



 Now EVAP.... so I use the ranger stuff, and simply run a hose to this port on the intake.?




 This is the only port I have left..





 And finally one more question..im fixing to set my battery in..hook it up to the truck to see if it cranks over and I hear the fuel pump prime and to make sure I have no fuel leaks.. I am not starting it. 

 Grounds..one up on the firewall and the ground by the battery, correct?



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 Posted: Tue Oct 27th, 2020 08:24 pm
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So I did a cranking test tonight. 
No fuel fuel leaks, no fires, clutch safety neutral switch does as it should..
 ONLY one small issue. When you turn the key to on position, the reverse lights are on.. wth?
  I'm running a Z-spec t5 and have nothing hooked to the transmission. But as soon as you turn the key to thw on position..the backup lights come on.
 Any ideas?


ALERT!!! 
MAKE SURE YOU TAKE EVERYTHING OFF THE WINDSHIELD  THAT HAS BEEN SITTING THERE FOR 2 YEARS.. WIPERS CAME ON AND CHIT WENT EVERYWHERE!!!

LMAO!!!



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 Posted: Tue Oct 27th, 2020 09:11 pm
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I had the reverse lights twisted together.. so Im good.
 Everything  works as it should on first test. Fire in the whole just to see if it starts soon!



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 Posted: Tue Oct 27th, 2020 10:31 pm
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VelociRanger
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Hell yeah dude!! Video of first start up?? :frd



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 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2020 06:39 am
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Junglejoe wrote:
So I did a cranking test tonight. 
No fuel fuel leaks, no fires, clutch safety neutral switch does as it should..
 ONLY one small issue. When you turn the key to on position, the reverse lights are on.. wth?
  I'm running a Z-spec t5 and have nothing hooked to the transmission. But as soon as you turn the key to thw on position..the backup lights come on.
 Any ideas?


ALERT!!! 
MAKE SURE YOU TAKE EVERYTHING OFF THE WINDSHIELD  THAT HAS BEEN SITTING THERE FOR 2 YEARS.. WIPERS CAME ON AND CHIT WENT EVERYWHERE!!!

LMAO!!!

HAAA! Not that I can relate or anything....


Also when you finally put the hood back on and close it for the first time, if it sits a little high in the back before the launch pad wipers, check for screwdrivers sitting in that lip where the rubber seal is. Never done that either. :fp



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 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2020 09:32 am
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HELL YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! getting closer!!



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 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2020 02:04 pm
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The wealth of images between you and 410customs is as good as gold for everyone coming here after. Thank you both!!! I have a far greater understanding of what it takes and how it's done. Amazing....



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 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2020 06:44 pm
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I'm actually learning a lot from 410 as the assembly part is in progress. I had most of it saved, bagged and tagged.. well 2 years in the making things just got lost and misplaced. Plans changed on the build several times. I decided to make my mind up one day   and stuck with a game plan on the drivetrain.  Goal was to be a 350 hp to the tire build, 100 percent daily driver/travle truck with ac!  Heavily ported twisted wedge heads that were also milled to 58cc,Anderson Ford cam, heavily ported upper and lower intake and tb. I like the idea of ported stock parts. A  5 speed is a must for me.  My main problem was the one ac plug.. I couldn't understand  that to save my life. 410  hoped me out with that big time. 
 Pics coming soon on the hydraulic clutch assembly and my own custom made clutch resovoir  jug. ☕

Last edited on Wed Oct 28th, 2020 06:45 pm by Junglejoe



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 Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2020 09:04 am
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I may have muddied up the water a bit too! Remember I have only been doing Rangers for a few years now, I always did Explorers, so I am learning too. On this 2000 Ranger gone 2000 v8 (300K truck), the stupid ac plug I only had to modify one wire. It was the 98 Rangers that require all that custom alternator wiring, ac wiring, etc........ so a bunch of the info I gave you was likely pretty confusing. I say this all the time " Every conversion is different" and that is sooooo true.

Many changes to the ranger between 98 and 2000, of course, thanks Ford! If they were simple we would be Chevy dudes....and we are NOT chevy dudes! (even if we fix those too)

On top of what you guys see here there are also many PM's and emails as well as text messages that go back and forth. I help a few dudes with their projects pretty much daily, lucky for me I also have a few dudes I can call when I need help...and the circle is complete.

FYI you are correct the Ranger EVAP (fuel vapor) line indeed connects to your last remaining port! See pics in the 300K thread, I just finished all the underhood wiring and plumbing yesterday



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 Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2020 01:05 pm
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True on the Ford/Chevy thing. I use to build s10's.. Ive built a lot of those. To be honest,  The only good thing about those is exhaust. Headers fit good..lmao
 They however do feel front end heavy to me. You know there is a v8 up there. They do not ride as good as the rangers and the rangers have way more cab room. 

 Most were stock TBI 350 swaps daily.drivers with flowmasters for sound.. I did  put a 12:1 383 stroker in a 87 s10 blazer , on Streets it'd pull the front tires just by flooring it. But it was really a race truck. Definitely not a everyday driver and you'd better not get caught at a redlight.. it got hot quick!

 I'm definitely a Ford guy. Had so many foxbody's its not even funny back in the day.
 Thats where this ranger comes in to play.. Its a small truck,  302 v8 and 5 speed..WIN WIN Sitauation! ☕



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 Posted: Fri Oct 30th, 2020 06:04 pm
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Ok.. worked on the clutch hydraulics today and got it done. Ill need to.adjust it.and fine tune it when that day comes.. but its finished...  (I think,lol)
 I cannot take credit for the idea..I read this is what someone has used for over 300k miles...yes, thats 300,000 miles on a mild 302 t5 speed swap.with ac!

 So... here's the parts.. 
(1)  6 inch threaded  3/8 rod 
(2)  1 3/8 carriage bolt(you just need the head of the carriage bolt)
(3) 6 3/8 nuts and lock washers 
(4) 3/8 bolts.. approximately  1 1/4 long
3/8  capped carriage nut
99 F550 clutch master cylinder 
280z slave
A GOOD  3/8 steel drill bit
A piece of 3x3 L angle iron...





Capped carriage nut.... screw it on the end of the 3/8 rod. Use a 3/8 lockwasher and regular nut..




Then take a grinder and round off the sharp points..I also ground the lock washer down flush too..




The carriage capped nut fits perfect into the 280z sleeve cyl....











 Next take and cut the head off of the carriage bolt..










 Now..I dont have a vice..I HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU USE ONE!!! .. now we have the head cut off... you need to drill a 3/8 hole in the center.. I used a pare of vice grips and yes.. that beech got a little squirrely..lol
 I simply put a + in the center, got a hammer and nail punch for a starting point...












 Now... the hole is drilled. Use two more 3/8 regular nuts and thread them on the rod. Then slide the head of the carriage bolt on the threaded rod.. that part fits almost perfect on the mustang clutch fork.




 Now to drill two 3/8 holes in the bellhousing  AFTER you get the slave exactly where you want it. Basically just try to get it straight and the threaded rod straight  with the clutch fork. Yes, its a beech doing in by yourself under the truck with the trans mounted already. I used a large zip tie to gold the slave compressed.. thats a must!

 I cut a cardboard template  then transfered it to the L bracket..




 I didn't take pics of the holes and marking those and drilling them because its going to depend on YOUR truck and where you place the bracket and your preferences..







 Pretty much sums it up. I haven't really bled thw system, I need my brother to come over and help.. but I did bench bleed it befor I put it all together.. I got in and pushed the peddle  down.. feels a little weird, not what I'm use to with a hydraulic clutch. So we'll see how this works out. If I end up not liking it..Ill switch to a hydraulic throwout bearing

 I still have some small stuff to do befor I test fire it.
 So on PATS.. I transfered everything from the explorer over to my truck, including the ignition switch. So when I hooked a battery up to the truck to check for fuel leaks ect..... the "THEFT" light blinks.. not fast, but steady.. is that normal?  When I turn thw key forward... it comes on for a couple seconds then goes off, again, its that normal?
 No rapid blinking or anything else...

Last edited on Fri Oct 30th, 2020 06:12 pm by Junglejoe



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 Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2020 11:01 am
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normal!!!!!!!!!!!!!! well done
I love this clutch slave cylinder!!! WELL DONE, my favorite word is FABRICATION and that is the bees knees right there........good stuff
we need to get you a vise!
The best vise to have around is either mounted to a bench or even mounted to a hitch receiver so you can put it in the back of any truck and work outside.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2020 11:14 am
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Thanks J. Appreciate all your help. I use to work on cars and trucks back in Florida as just a hobby.. Then I moved to Missouri and just quit buying and fixing stuff. I've only built one blown foxbody and an s10  since I've been here,  but now I'm getting back into it somewhat. Couple of my brothers wants.me.to put them together a v8 ranger.. 2wd and a 4wd.. stock stuff.
I need to get the proper tools and equipment before some bad  chit happens  from being an idiot. ..lol
 I'm the so called "mechanic" of the family, far from that.. just a flooring dude.... ☕



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 Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2020 02:47 pm
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On the pats... you would have needed the key, the coil immediately behind the plastic in line with the lock cylinder, the corresponding transmitter hooked in to the coil, the receiver behind the passenger air bag AND the ECU which you obviously have.

If you don't have the coil ring, transmitter, receiver and the ECU pats will not work without being re programmed or written out altogether in the ECU.

Last edited on Sat Oct 31st, 2020 02:50 pm by JAMMAN



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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2020 07:45 am
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Yeah I switched all of it over to my ranger .
 You say coil ring... you talking about the round ring behind the ignition switch?

Last edited on Sun Nov 1st, 2020 07:47 am by Junglejoe



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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2020 09:11 am
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Today I am going to.see if it fires up!

 I know it won't run.at its best unturned with 24lb injectors  and o2's not hooked up.. but I think it should start??

 Only thing I've never messed with until now is the cam syncro.  My understanding is is its best to use the tool.. but I've watched other videos  that say you dont need it. I put it in  with the dowl pin facing the  open window  with No.1 on tdc.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2020 12:42 pm
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I found this plug.... but don't see where it hooks to... any idea?



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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2020 02:35 pm
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It lives!! That plug in the previous post..goes to the crank sensor..lmao. wont run without it!!
http://www.youtube.com/shorts/O5Ji2RbfQjQ



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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2020 07:13 am
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Nice! If it runs half as good as it sounds you will be in for a kick in the butt the first time you step on the throttle. Would be priceless the look on your face.

Makes all the work worth it :)



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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2020 07:38 am
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Yeah man.. I hope it does. I ended up going all in on this build..  way more than I had planned.   From what Ive seen, most  trick flow top end .stock bottom end 302's  do 295-310 to the tire. Everything on the top of tho motor was heavily ported but matched to the cam and compression. Only thing I may have to do is switch to 30 lb injecters. BUT.. if it does good enough with the 24's, Ill leave it alone. 
 This is my test motor to see if I like how the truck feels. If it rides and feels stock other than mashing the peddle.. Ill pull it back apart once this engine gets tired and drop in a blown 331



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