Another 2002 v8 swap - 8 Cylinder Gasoline - Ranger Engine Tech

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4.0power
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410customs wrote:
a conversion will always have bugs to sort out.
It took me 2 years to sort out the wiring for my first v6 swap 20+ years ago. Once you go through this you will have a FULL understanding of your Ranger
You and the truck will be connected like twins
Well done getting it running so quickly! It was running smoothly too!
So many conversions get to this point only to find out they have to pull and engine again, or something major. You are on your way to having a 5.0 Ranger in days or weeks not months or years!

I am working on where to pull the VSS signal from right now.... The rear axle speed sensor wires where they go into the old v6 pcm is where I am shooting for....stay tuned.
I'm gona order the Dakota converter Today, and gona go back thru my home made harness to see if anything sticks out. I really want to get it running again so I can get it warmed up and check for leaks

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Posted: Mon Apr 20th, 2020 11:56 am

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Nicely done! Sounds great!

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Posted: Mon Apr 20th, 2020 12:06 pm

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4.0power
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1qaz wrote:
Nicely done! Sounds great!
Thanks! Hopefully Friday? I may be able to drive it.

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mhoward

Posted: Mon Apr 20th, 2020 02:23 pm

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So I retraced my wiring, everything seems right. I put a new fuse in and doesn't blow... so I got a fire extinguisher on hand, and I'm gona crank it back up to see what it does.

I truly don't know what caused the fuse to blow in the first place, I did wiggle wires around and that didn't change anything.

If all goes well I'll get the motor up to temp and bleed the power steering.

Edit: ran for about 2 minutes then it didn't want to idle then it stalled and won't start- check got fuel pressure but no spark. Could any of the pats that's still in the truck mess with the non pats ecm? I do have a tach signal still too. Am I messing with my self with not having all the wires hooked up on the 42 pin connector?

Hooked a scan tool up and no codes in it.
Disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes, cranked it, ran for a spilt second and quit.

Last edited on Mon Apr 20th, 2020 05:12 pm by 4.0power

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Posted: Mon Apr 20th, 2020 09:29 pm

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JAMMAN

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There are really only 2 major types of sensors, hall effect and magnetic. What kind of sensor is the ECM looking for and how many teeth. Getting the signal from the tail shaft or a trigger wheel in the rear end OR the ABS tone ring.... same thing. A pulse.

There is probably a multiplier in the ECM that you set for the amount of teeth.

I'm going off machine building experience, I recently had to coordinate a digitial input limit with a prox sensor limit and get the most pulses possible for the best resolution.

DAQ limit on input pulses - 200 min 400,000 HZ max

Sensor pulse limit 30 KHZ

Machine RPM desired... around 3200

The sensor was the limit, so I made an 8 notch tone ring. Do the math lOL.

At one notch (original setup) I couldn't get a reading till 200 RPM.

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Posted: Mon Apr 20th, 2020 09:34 pm

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JAMMAN wrote:
There are really only 2 major types of sensors, hall effect and magnetic. What kind of sensor is the ECM looking for and how many teeth. Getting the signal from the tail shaft or a trigger wheel in the rear end OR the ABS tone ring.... same thing. A pulse.

There is probably a multiplier in the ECM that you set for the amount of teeth.

I'm going off machine building experience, I recently had to coordinate a digitial input limit with a prox sensor limit and get the most pulses possible for the best resolution.

DAQ limit on input pulses - 200 min 400,000 HZ max

Sensor pulse limit 30 KHZ

Machine RPM desired... around 3200

The sensor was the limit, so I made an 8 notch tone ring. Do the math lOL.

At one notch (original setup) I couldn't get a reading till 200 RPM.
Ahhh I see what your saying, I think the pcm is looking for a 4,000 pulse square wave from the vss

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Posted: Mon Apr 20th, 2020 10:17 pm

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Tsquare
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If you pull out an oscilloscope to see the wave we want pictures.

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mhoward

Posted: Tue Apr 21st, 2020 10:25 am

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The speedometer is looking to see 8000 pulses per mile, almost all Fords do
The rear axle vss sends more like 29000 PPM
The PCM gets inputs from 5 speed sensors in a 2002 model: left front wheel, right front wheel, VSS in rear axle, ISS and OSS (in transmission)
The wheel speed sensors, ISS and OSS are used for ABS brakes and shifting
The VSS input is basically used for the speedometer and cruise control....

The old v6 PCM used to take the rear axle vss signal (29000 ppm) and buffer it to the 8000 ppm and send to the speedometer and other modules.
In the v8 trucks the ABS module did this buffering not the PCM
The dakota digital converter will now be responsible for this.
I am working on wiring this up in our 02 trac hopefully today. I have done all the research now its time to find the wires and do testing.

So back to the no longer running issue.
FYI Your tachometer should be working, has nothing to do with the VSS issues
Is the theft light flashing when cranking or does it go out?
Im going to PM you with my phone number so you can text me in the shop....we will get through this!

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Posted: Tue Apr 21st, 2020 02:29 pm

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JAMMAN

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Here ya go. A GPS related unit that has different pulse outputs, still available and less than 100 bucks.

Attachment: sum-800108.pdf (Downloaded 9 times)

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Posted: Wed Apr 22nd, 2020 09:49 am

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that is awesome, no speed sensor needed!

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Posted: Wed Apr 22nd, 2020 10:37 am

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I bet you can feed the ECU with the pulses as a VSS signal and not only get the speedo to work but the transmission would shift correctly also since it has the 4000 pulse per mile option.

I have a plug for the ECU's we use I really want to start hacking LOL. I really wonder how much of it is burned on the chip and how much is EEPROM. I bet the whole thing is EEPROM and if it can be figured out you could take lets say a 4 cyl ECU for a standard and burn it for a V8 automatic. This can't be as complicated as they (Ford) want you to think.

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410customs ,mhoward

Posted: Wed Apr 22nd, 2020 11:32 am

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JAMMAN wrote:
I bet the whole thing is EEPROM and if it can be figured out you could take lets say a 4 cyl ECU for a standard and burn it for a V8 automatic. This can't be as complicated as they (Ford) want you to think.
I would say you are pretty close to the truth. The only thing different would be the code. Makes sense from a tooling/production aspect to have only one ECU hardware and just flash it for whatever truck configuration you need. Each flash config would carry a different part number suffix (A, B, C, etc). So.... get to hacking, Jim! :-)

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So many mods... so little time...

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Eddie Money

Posted: Wed Apr 22nd, 2020 08:57 pm

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JAMMAN wrote:
Here ya go. A GPS related unit that has different pulse outputs, still available and less than 100 bucks.
I'll be adding that the list of stuff to buy. I can live with a antenna on the roof of the truck.

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Posted: Wed Apr 22nd, 2020 09:20 pm

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Tie wrap it around the shank of your rear view mirror to test, I bet it works just fine. Your phone will get GPS inside the car, same thing.

If it works just fine like I'm sure it will, affix it to that dead area between the headliner and the rear view mirror mount on the windshield and run the wire under the headliner to the left A pillar cover, down to under the dash where it needs to be.

Another option would be on top of the 3rd brake light through it's gasket inside... left side trim...

I put the receiver for my keyless entry/remote starter in the sunglasses pouch on the overhead console I put in. I don't have it hooked to the relays yet but it does receive fine. If you like a red flashing LED.

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410customs

Posted: Thu Apr 23rd, 2020 10:48 am

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I recently installed a new head unit, it came with wifi and gps antennae. I put them both on my dash, they work just fine there...plenty of view of the sky
Keep up the good work. The correct rear driveshaft can be a real bitch to source, as I said the junk yards bend all of them with their forklift. You are better off with a private party.... or just grab the bent rear shaft try to get it cheap, and have it re tubed to the correct length. I figure running around all day to 2-3 junk yards trying to find the right shaft just to come home without one...do that once or twice I mine as well have just paid the $300-400 to have one built.

The front shaft can come from any 4.6 or 4.2L v6 4x4 truck. If it is too long by .5" or so it can be fixed with a grinder

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Posted: Mon Apr 27th, 2020 08:21 pm

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Small update, got two Nissan xtreea trans coolers from the junkyard. What I like about them is that they have built in thermostats! It'd bypass half the cooler before it warms up. Also scored the yoke out of a 1998 f150 so I'll be stopping at a drive shaft shop tomorrow.

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Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2020 09:56 am

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wicked cool upgrade!

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Posted: Fri May 1st, 2020 08:01 am

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Another small update. The factory pats junk won't send power to the harness to activate the starter harness. So I added my own starter switch hidden in the cab. And got my driveshaft back! 235 dollars later it looks great and fits 100%!

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Eddie Money

Posted: Fri May 1st, 2020 11:17 am

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$235 is a smoking good deal these days especially if they use spicer U joint
Did you ground the starter relay wire, the dark blue with orange???

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Posted: Fri May 1st, 2020 02:42 pm

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410customs wrote:
$235 is a smoking good deal these days especially if they use spicer U joint
Did you ground the starter relay wire, the dark blue with orange???
I did ground the the DB/O wire, no change.

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Posted: Wed May 6th, 2020 02:26 pm

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GPS came in! That will get wired in when I get the truck back from the Exhuast shop.

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Posted: Thu May 7th, 2020 08:19 am

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Ok so the computer spit some codes out. They are p0453, p0135, p0402, p0232.

P0453- evap system pressure sensor/switch circuit high
P0135 appears to be a o2 sensor code which makes sense since it didn't have any sensors on it (at the exhaust shop now)
P0402-egr A flow excessive detected
P0232- fuel pump secondary circuit high

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Posted: Thu May 7th, 2020 09:18 am

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453- Do you have canister vent and canister purge solenoids hooked up?
135 & 402 we will see what happens when you have exhaust
232:
This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is a generic powertrain code, which means that it applies to OBD-II equipped vehicles. Although generic, the specific repair steps may vary depending on make/model. The fuel pump is powered by the fuel pump relay. When the PCM (powertrain control module) activates the fuel pump relay, voltage is supplied to the fuel pump and it pressurizes the fuel system. Some vehicles have a feedback on the fuel pump supply circuit. This is simply a circuit spliced into the voltage feed to the fuel pump. The splice is usually located close to the PCM.

Causes:
Bad FP relay Short to voltage on FP voltage supply circuit or feedback circuit Short to ground on PCM FP relay control circuit PCM FP relay control driver shorted to ground internally

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0232
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

I have the 2002 Ranger book here, when you get your exhaust on and back to the shop lets checkout the fuel pump wiring circuit
So far so good!

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Posted: Thu May 7th, 2020 11:18 am

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410customs wrote:
453- Do you have canister vent and canister purge solenoids hooked up?
135 & 402 we will see what happens when you have exhaust
232:
This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is a generic powertrain code, which means that it applies to OBD-II equipped vehicles. Although generic, the specific repair steps may vary depending on make/model. The fuel pump is powered by the fuel pump relay. When the PCM (powertrain control module) activates the fuel pump relay, voltage is supplied to the fuel pump and it pressurizes the fuel system. Some vehicles have a feedback on the fuel pump supply circuit. This is simply a circuit spliced into the voltage feed to the fuel pump. The splice is usually located close to the PCM.

Causes:
Bad FP relay Short to voltage on FP voltage supply circuit or feedback circuit Short to ground on PCM FP relay control circuit PCM FP relay control driver shorted to ground internally

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0232
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

I have the 2002 Ranger book here, when you get your exhaust on and back to the shop lets checkout the fuel pump wiring circuit
So far so good!
Are is the canister vent/purge valve connector come from the explorer motor harness or does it stay with the truck harness? Is it the valve that is right next to the abs?

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Posted: Thu May 7th, 2020 11:24 am

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stays with the truck, there are two
The canister vent solenoid is back above your spare tire by the charcoal canister
The canister purge solenoid is mounted right next to the ABS pump

The code probably means we need to move some wires around, but first lets see if you have them plugged in and where the wires are going..........

The canister cent and purge solenoids are basically valves that open and close. The charcoal canister stores fuel vapor from on top of the fuel tank until the engine sees wide open throttle, then the two valves open and the fuel vapors are sent via vacuum into the intake to be burned.
Your code is pointing to a wiring issue with the circuit that controls these (PCM control wire directly to valves)

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