Another 2002 v8 swap - 8 Cylinder Gasoline - Ranger Engine Tech

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4.0power
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Well the time has come to start a build thread. First I will say that if anyone looks back I did have one for a v6 supercharged build but I decided that a 5r55e (even â€œbuiltâ€) would never hold up so that went in the trash. The v8 swap is here to stay.

What I plan on using the truck is clowning around, pulling trailers, burn outs, etc lol.

So I'm going to keep the motor simple, e303 cam, torquemonsters, trickflow intake. Done. Maybe one day a turbo build but not for a looooong time.

Trans: stock 4r70w with the j mod, already got a oversized cooler.

Now what I would like to have everyone's input on is what transfer case to use with what I'll be doing. Will the stock ranger case hold up or go for a electronic shift 4406, will a 4406 fit or does the frame need to cut?

Wiring: BIG SHOUT OUT TO 410CUSTOMS, he has been a huge help!!!! I will be using a 1996 motor wire harness and computer.

I know there's more but work comes early in the morning so here are some pictures of the truck and motor

Attachment: 65110D61-4686-4B64-92EA-6BC87429B7A8.jpeg (Downloaded 303 times)

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2002 xlt 4.0 5r55e 4x4 4.10 rear disc brake swap from sn95 **currently swapping in a 5.0***
2003 2.3 2wd 5 speed single cab dropped 9 inches looks like crap rides like crap but for some reason itâ€™s cool to me
2004 gmc 2500hd 6.6 diesel LLY
1989 foxbody 347 stroker t5 trans

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Posted: Mon Aug 26th, 2019 02:42 am

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Eddie Money
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Looking foward to the end results!!

Last edited on Mon Aug 26th, 2019 02:42 am by Eddie Money

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2007 Sport 4door 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 Ranger

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Posted: Mon Aug 26th, 2019 09:21 am

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Idahome

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The 4406M or E fits without any frame modifications. Sometimes we have to modify the gas tank holding bracket and I usually beef up the stock V8 transmission support/mount
Otherwise the 4406 manual shift or E shift works fine.

I have also done the NP205 even with twin sticks
The stock ranger case requires an adapter to bolt on the back of the 4r70w, so generally I avoid going this route.
I did the Advance Adapter in my BII and it was at a big cost for little gain. The adapter was $600, the installation requires that you rebuild the trans ($800-2000) and now I am stuck with a custom 4r70w that fits the 1354 ranger case (including a custom output shaft). This means I cannot build another 4r70w and have it ready to drop in because the rtans/drivetrain is customized. I wish I never did the AA adapter!! Back then nobody knew the 4406 could be made to fit...
In hindsight I would never use the 1354 (ranger) t case again. The money could be used towards the purchase of an Atlas T case if you are hard core 4x4ing the truck

Wicked cool build! Now that is what I like to see! More SBF Rangers!!
You are a wise person, the 5r55e will not hold up very long behind a powerful V6. PERIOD.
Back in 2004 I was all ready to put a roots blower on top of a pushrod 4.0, but after tearing up 3ea custom A4LD automatics (even without the blower) I made the same move and decided the 302 and 4r70w were for me. I have been daily driving my BII with the 302 in it since 2005 and never had to mess with the drivetrain again. The 302 does not care if it is -30 degrees outside or 130 degrees outside, the 4r70w does not care if you are pulling towing another ranger through town or crawling through the desert at 2mph. Ive said this before and I will say it again, 1/2 ton transmission in a Ranger is the way to go!
4R (4 speed auto with Reverse) 70 (factory rated for 700 ft lbs of torque!) W (wide ratio gear set)
Best choice!

I Love the look of the trick flow!

Last edited on Mon Aug 26th, 2019 09:32 am by 410customs

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Posted: Mon Aug 26th, 2019 11:29 am

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4.0power
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Now should I keep the low mileage oil cooler? I've seen some very high mileage expo v8 with the cooler and not have any problems with them leaking. I have a none cooler oil filter adapter from a later model expo. I'm fine with cooler knowing it will help keep the oil from breaking down on a big hill with a trailer. But if it's a big problem I'll get rid of it.

Can a 4406E be wired to work with the factory ranger system?

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Posted: Tue Aug 27th, 2019 09:51 am

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that is the beauty of the 4406e, they use similar shift motors

Ditch the factory oil cooler
You are better off using an external oil cooler of your choice.
Oil temp is not really a problem on a 302 in a Ranger
IMO
The factory cooler is OKAY but Ford did away with it in 98 and you should too
When there is a problem they mix water and oil, not something you want happening in your engine
I have seen two go bad over the years, once they mix you are screwed!!! Huge mess and problems

So you have three choices:
1. keep the 96-97 style oil cooler (boo hiss)
2. Use the 98-01 adapter and lower rad hose (yeah! still uses 820s small filter)
3. Use a canton billet oil filter adapter, hoses and remote filter mount so you can use a Fl1a filter, then you can easily plumb a oil cooler, pressure gauge, even mount the filter where it will get cool air all over it (HOORAY!)

Last edited on Tue Aug 27th, 2019 09:56 am by 410customs

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Posted: Tue Aug 27th, 2019 11:00 am

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4.0power
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I'll probably go with #3 since I would like the bigger filter, and a cooler.

Btw is it possible Ford possibility did a very late mode motor since this is a four bar head, oil cooler and return fuel lines? The motor shows that it has FB been taken apart, ever

Attachment: 0D543DAD-7282-41D7-B96D-E22C09E17B1A.jpeg (Downloaded 270 times)

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Posted: Tue Aug 27th, 2019 09:13 pm

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4.0power
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Small update: painted the accessory drive brackets

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Posted: Tue Aug 27th, 2019 09:16 pm

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4.0power
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Small update, painted the accessory drive brackets

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Posted: Wed Aug 28th, 2019 04:35 pm

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Idahome

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well with the GT40p heads (external EGR), oil cooler, welded exhaust manifolds and two fuel lines your engine is likely from a 97-98 truck or somewhere in between

96-97.5 no P heads, welded manifolds, oil cooler, GT40 intakes (internal EGR)

97.5+ had P heads (external EGR), welded manifolds, oil cooler, return fuel, no PATS

Later 98+ trucks had P heads, no oil cooler, Pats security key, cast manifolds and returnless fuel

Last edited on Wed Aug 28th, 2019 04:36 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Wed Sep 4th, 2019 09:57 pm

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4.0power
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Welll I got some bad news (for me), I got laid off. Good news I'll be back to work Monday next week. Parts has to get put on hold.

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Posted: Thu Sep 5th, 2019 09:12 am

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dang!! sorry you lost your job?
Sounds like good news you got another one?

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Posted: Thu Sep 5th, 2019 09:13 am

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4.0power
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410customs wrote:
dang!! sorry you lost your job?
Sounds like good news you got another one?
Yup, one of the perks of being in the union. Just sucked they laid me off right at the end of the month.....

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Posted: Thu Sep 5th, 2019 10:49 am

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4.0power
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The EVTM's did get ordered, so once the cam is swapped out I'll get after the 42 pin connector.

Should I get a EVTM for a f150 that has a electric shift 4406? Can that transfer case stay in 2wd if I where to just throw it in without wiring it up?

Of course I'll wire it up later point if it'll be ok. Because I'm using the shop I work at and have to have it done in a very timely manner

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Posted: Fri Sep 6th, 2019 10:06 pm

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4.0power
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Kinda curious on everyone's opinion on which fan to run, factory metal blade or plastic?

I don't want electric due to the fact I got a 12â€ sub and it'd be one more thing to bite me in the arse in the middle of traffic.

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Posted: Sat Sep 7th, 2019 10:20 am

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I like the metal simply because they do not crack
the plastic ones are lighter and move more air though, so it is up to you.
If you do not use the metal one post it up on Craigslist early bronco guys love those fans

I have found the e fan cannot cool my drivetrain when in stop and go traffic or crawling in low range in the desert...so I went back to mechanical. However there are much better 3 and 4 speed electronic fans on the market these days and with a large enough radiator it should work just fine. Just not in my BII, radiator is tooooo smalllllll.... (for now)

Your stock 4x4 system will shift that 4406 t case using your stock shift motor.
You just have to add one wire
The 5.0 Explorer was either RWD or full time AWD
SO Ford never added the neutral safety wire that goes from the DTRS to the GEM/4x4 control module. You add this one wire and the stock V6 4x4 controller will work.
I detailed the crap out of that one wire in another thread here on Ford-rangers.com for another guy who was trying to make the 4406 work....even though he gave up the info is still here somewhere, we will find it.

There is a red/white wire that goes from the DTRS to the 42 pin connector, the wire will already be in place on the truck side of things.
This is the NSS feed that tells the 4x4 shift controller that you are in N, allowing the 4x4 low range shift.

I will also be doing this wiring in the 07 build up thread

Last edited on Sat Sep 7th, 2019 10:24 am by 410customs

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Posted: Mon Sep 9th, 2019 07:28 pm

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Painted the front timing chain cover and valve covers. Got the evtm in for both the expo and ranger so once I'm done with the motor it's wiring time!

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Posted: Thu Sep 19th, 2019 06:50 pm

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Got the front cover on, now to get the valve spring upgrades and push rods.

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Posted: Sun Sep 22nd, 2019 09:21 pm

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4.0power
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Did a little more work to the motor, found the alternator bolts, got the crank pully on, even making a home made â€œbig 3 upgradeâ€ using both motor harness's. Just a couple motor parts from summit racing and the motor is ready!

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Posted: Tue Sep 24th, 2019 09:23 am

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Idahome

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hey that is clever!! dual alternator charging wires!! SMART that is the kind of out of the box thinking I want to see here!! Thank you huge props I might/will steal it!

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Posted: Tue Sep 24th, 2019 09:28 am

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With all the drivetrains you got laying around go for it!

I plan to one day put power windows/mirrors/locks in my truck and put heaters in the limited leather seats So I figured that it couldn't hurt to let the voltage flow a little easier from the alternator to the battery. And I did not have to buy any wire which is a plus!

You mentioned before that I'd need to make a starter harness? The power wire seems the same, I know that some changes will need to be done for the starter trigger wire tho.

Last edited on Tue Sep 24th, 2019 09:43 am by 4.0power

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Posted: Wed Sep 25th, 2019 08:16 am

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4.0power
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Hmmm might have to try this out! For a aftermarket one this is only 90~ bucks more!

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Posted: Wed Sep 25th, 2019 08:41 am

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$190 seems like alot for that radiator? Lets shop around usually they are like $150

Be careful they are hit or miss. I have had good luck with the Ebay made in mexico all tig welded aluminum radiators EXCEPT for one....we had one that only lasted 6 months before it started pouring out coolant from a side tank. Could have been welded back up but my friend Mark just decided to replace with a stock plastic/metal unit.

You will have to make a new starter/alternator harness because the explorer has the ac high pressure switch wiring built in where as the ranger it is different. It is pretty simple.

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Posted: Wed Sep 25th, 2019 01:14 pm

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410customs wrote:
$190 seems like alot for that radiator? Lets shop around usually they are like $150

Be careful they are hit or miss. I have had good luck with the Ebay made in mexico all tig welded aluminum radiators EXCEPT for one....we had one that only lasted 6 months before it started pouring out coolant from a side tank. Could have been welded back up but my friend Mark just decided to replace with a stock plastic/metal unit.

You will have to make a new starter/alternator harness because the explorer has the ac high pressure switch wiring built in where as the ranger it is different. It is pretty simple.
Well if it does decide to leak I know some guys that can tig weld!

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Posted: Wed Sep 25th, 2019 01:17 pm

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Nice! Actually a mig welder can do aluminum also as long as it can use a spool gun.
Tig welding friends is a HUGE BONUS in the world of truck building.
I am not worried about an exterior leak, its the internal ones that suck

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Posted: Wed Sep 25th, 2019 01:39 pm

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410customs wrote:
Nice! Actually a mig welder can do aluminum also as long as it can use a spool gun.
Tig welding friends is a HUGE BONUS in the world of truck building.
I am not worried about an exterior leak, its the internal ones that suck
Do you know if 2.5 inch exhaust pipe will fit from the headers back? I want to do true dual's with a x pipe and two flow master 44

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