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Truck is heating up at times       #: 1098
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 Posted: Mon Jul 30th, 2018 01:05 am
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Savage03
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 Hey all
SO got no help from fb so give forums a go :/
My truck has started this a while ago problem is not for sure when, I want to say a month or so ago when the thermostat housing was replaced but I only noticed it heating up after that was done cause I paying more attention to the gauge where as not as much before :(
Now for the weird part no one can figure out, I was in starbucks drive thru and happen to look down and saw it at least 3/4 to red line hot was like wtf! So being slow sob's I finally get out of there and get onto the street to head home and it starts cooling back off...I get home check for leaking and what not nothing. Next day check coolant totally full and some in the over flow. Fast forward another month still doing it after trying a new thermostat and new fan clutch.
Only does this when in a drive thru, however other day I got onto the freeway and got in behind a truck pulling a trailer and it started up again rising. Could be it was still high since I just came out of a drive thru and the freeway entrance is right at the freeway but still very confused and no clue where to go from here.
Thanks for any help.
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 Posted: Mon Jul 30th, 2018 01:28 am
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Undrstm8ed
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 Savage03 wrote:
Hey all
SO got no help from fb so give forums a go :/
My truck has started this a while ago problem is not for sure when, I want to say a month or so ago when the thermostat housing was replaced but I only noticed it heating up after that was done cause I paying more attention to the gauge where as not as much before :(
Now for the weird part no one can figure out, I was in starbucks drive thru and happen to look down and saw it at least 3/4 to red line hot was like wtf! So being slow sob's I finally get out of there and get onto the street to head home and it starts cooling back off...I get home check for leaking and what not nothing. Next day check coolant totally full and some in the over flow. Fast forward another month still doing it after trying a new thermostat and new fan clutch.
Only does this when in a drive thru, however other day I got onto the freeway and got in behind a truck pulling a trailer and it started up again rising. Could be it was still high since I just came out of a drive thru and the freeway entrance is right at the freeway but still very confused and no clue where to go from here.
Thanks for any help.
So questions..

Was the A/C on?
What was the ambient temperature?
Whats the condition of the Radiator Cap?
Was the Fan shroud replaced, is it damaged, broken?



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 Posted: Mon Jul 30th, 2018 01:42 am
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Savage03
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 Oops forgot to mention yes AC is on, I have had the truck for over 4 years now and that needle never leaves the middle so to rise to almost hot alarms me.
Is hot out as usual for CA right now around the 100 degree area.
New rad cap
fan shroud is intacked.

Someone had said see if a rag will stay up in front of the grill, I tried it will not but maybe to heavy? Try a paper towel.
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 Posted: Mon Jul 30th, 2018 01:49 am
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 4.0L I assume too?

4.0L runs a bit warm. I have a HD rad, still running the clutch fan setup until I get the last component of my EFAN setup to put in. But when my AC is on, mine will venture up near that "M" or "A" if I am sitting too long sometimes but in my case its because my fan is set deeper in my fan shroud and the paddles dont seem to catch enough air when idling at a longer than usual light or a draggin ass drive thru. Soon as I get some air moving across the fins.. it drops reasonably quick.

If I don't have the AC on.. doesnt even get the the "O" even at 110*+ temps. Although i think the Serpentine belt is gonna get swapped out soon and see if that makes it a bit better.

Last edited on Mon Jul 30th, 2018 01:50 am by Undrstm8ed



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"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

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"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Mon Jul 30th, 2018 06:59 am
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JAMMAN

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 Did you put the old thermostat back in the new housing or replace that too?

Only a few things can cause your problem,I'll list them in order of most common to almost impossible but I have seen it..

1. Air pockets still in coolant. Modern places use a vacuum system to put coolant in. Instead of pouring it in they suck it in virtually eliminating air pockets.

2. Old or new, thermostat was defective or installed improperly, upside down, or with a portion of the gasket bloking the opening.... excessive gasket sealer or silicone can block it too I have seen "extreme gasket sealer amounts" where often times none is needed at all.

3. Excessive anti freeze. If you are in a place that does not freeze and will never travel to a place that does not freeze you will gain nothing from excessive anti freeze. I did run in to a situation where the owner thought "if 50% is good 100% must be awesome!". You actually loose cooling ability with a more concentrated mix. Antifreeze only does 2 things.... keeps coolant from freezing at low temps (duh) and keeps the inside of the system from corroding. If you are over 50% back it off. Warm environments might want to do 30% as the WATER is what is doing the cooling not the anti freeze.

4. Fan clutch or electric fan has died. I know you mentioned replacing it. To some people a "new fan clutch" is one they removed off another vehicle or salvage yard. These are often as bad as what you had.

5. Radiator itself is blocked or entry/exit hose mis routed restricting flow to radiator. Calcium deposits can settle on the bottom few rows causing them to be useless.

6. One extreme case on a mustang I saw was the water pump itself had encountered so much calcium deposits from poor coolant system maintenance the tips had wore down and it simply could not pump! This is probably not your issue just wanting to exhibit that I have had a few "rounds" with cooling systems.

I forgot to add fins separating from radiator tubes and the occasional "I took it to the car wash and cleaned it out" where they have bent the fins to the point air cannot pass through it.



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 Posted: Mon Jul 30th, 2018 09:23 am
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 How is the radiator? How many miles on it? Single core? Is this truck a stick or auto?

Maybe time for a water pump and or radiator. However please know that if the needle is still pointing at "normal" then it is in operating temp range and might be completely normal. A scanner to watch the actual engine coolant temp might be a good idea, you can use an app for your phone with a bluetooth dongle. This can tell you if it is 210 degrees, 220, 240, etc........



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 Posted: Mon Jul 30th, 2018 01:35 pm
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Savage03
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 When I bought the truck little over 4 years ago now I went through all the basics, fluids changes etc, I did a in the driveway type of radiator flush and new thermostat, I sprung the heavy over priced failsafe one for $26 yikes. That had been in there till a month ago cause the OE thermostat housing started leaking some months back so got a new one which is some cheap plastic deal and stupid design so fast forward a few months and new one was leaking to, found out it was normal they fail a lot. Hit ebay and found some places were making metal ones so went with that, it came with a new thermostat seemed like a generic looking one but my buddy is a certified mechanic and has owned many rangers so really trust him and I don't trust many to touch it even mechanics lol. I told him to decide if the one that was in there could/should be reused or use the generic one. Now by time this heating deal starts he couldn't recall if he couldn't recall which he used but did give me the old parts back so I checked it out and he used the generic one, 2 days ago I went back to autozone got another $26 fail safe one and put it in but as stated still warms up....
It had the 50/50 antifreeze put in it also. I also picked up one of those testers that checks the coolant not sure how accurate they are but this what it said, 2 balls floated in the tube and it says the boiling point is 218 degrees.
Fan clutch was brand new, I never do junk yard parts always new. I am very whats the word.....ocd about my truck I hear every little noise that when I go get checked no one hears what I do lol so when things to me are not normal it will keep me awake and this one is no exception. Like I said here in CA it does get hot 100+ but that needle has never in 4 years moved past the middle  mark.

Water pump..that was done at ford I think around 3 to 4 years ago some where in that time frame. Their is no leaking the radiator stays full. 
Just not sure what to do next, throw more money on the fire?  New water pump again, goto a place that can clean the radiator better? 

Oh 410 is this what your talking about?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ELM327-OBD2-Car-Diagnostic-Scanner-BUS-Bluetooth-WiFi-for-Mobile-ANDROID-Car-LN-/162222251748?oid=112026367870
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 Posted: Mon Jul 30th, 2018 01:39 pm
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Savage03
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 Forgot truck is 2001 edge, 4.0 auto 4wd.

Attachment: 20150327_191015_zpswbpbbpzr.jpg (Downloaded 49 times)
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 Posted: Mon Jul 30th, 2018 07:44 pm
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 Do you have an android phone or tablet?

I would want to know what my water temp is
You can actually watch the thermostat open and see what temp the system is running when its that hot

Nice truck! Very nice.......



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 Posted: Mon Jul 30th, 2018 08:04 pm
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Savage03
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 Andriod.
Thank you!
If your the same guy I think I talked to you on fb before about hid....If I can ever get past repairs might be able to do some fun stuff lol.
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 Posted: Sat Aug 4th, 2018 07:20 pm
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Savage03
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 Any other suggestions?
I did just get the obd device but need to know what app you all use?
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 Posted: Sat Aug 4th, 2018 11:24 pm
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 Torque Pro or Forscan



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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 03:13 pm
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Savage03
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 Got the app and was able to get it linked to phone but for the life of me cant get it to read the computer, just sits and has a vehicle icon flashing.
Any ideas?
One I got 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT100-ELM327-V2-1-OBD2-II-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Car-Auto-Interface-Scanner-Mini/322527014551?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=511506945304&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 09:09 pm
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Tsquare
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 That is the one I have. When I did my scan for blutooth I had to use a password of 1234



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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 09:16 pm
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Savage03
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 Yea I got that far it just wont read the trucks brain to give me the info from the obd.
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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 09:16 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Define the app. Torque pro works better on phones IMO even though there is a forscan lite for android. For laptop nothing beats forscan.

Did you spend the 3 bucks and get torque pro?



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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 09:19 pm
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Savage03
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 Yes I did.
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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 09:32 pm
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JAMMAN

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 OK this is a silly question, did you turn the truck on?

There is voltage to the BT scanner at all times when plugged in so you will be able to link but nothing will read until you turn the truck on.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 09:37 pm
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Savage03
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 Yes sir sat in the driveway for sometime running trying stuff.
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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 09:49 pm
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JAMMAN

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 OK something isn't making sense. Hope you didn't get a bum reader. They normally hook right up.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 09:59 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Actually I just read through the entire thing again, looks like you did do your homework.

The only thing left is the radiator. If the tubes are clogged at the bottom or the fins are coming loose from the tubes you might not be able to clean it with a flush.

If it were me and I had done all you have I would get a new radiator.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 10:57 pm
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Savage03
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 Think I will try the flush see what happens.
I did some reading and found that some fords have this special protocol on the obd and theirs certain readers that have this protocol which I think mine needs and the reader I got does not have it :(
The ones that do are larger as well :/ Buy another one and see how it goes.
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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 11:04 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Mine works in newer rangers, had it on an 02 just a few weeks ago.

I paid a couple bucks more and got this one, so far I have been able to read everything. Had it on a 2012 mazda Cx7 a few weeks ago, just fine.

https://bafxpro.com/products/obdreader



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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 11:42 pm
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Savage03
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 Yea that's one, mention the j1850 protocol that cheap readers cant read. Which I figure mine is that.
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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 11:43 pm
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 Careful doing a flush. I bought a bronco II and started changing fluids and all the stuff you do to try to liven up an older new to you vehicle. I did the flush as part of an oil change/ winterizing.  A week later it over heated and in doing so cracked both heads due to a plugged water galley, more than likely from the gunk in the radiator. If you do a flush I'd try and find a way to do it without pushing it out through the block. Then flush the block before installing the radiator.



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