410customs
Idahome
Joined: Wed May 2nd, 2018
Posts: 2165
Name: Jamie ... Occupation: Elevator Design Worlds Tallest Buildings ... Interests: Ranger Based Vehicles and OFFROAD ...
Reputation Points: 2165
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The engine damper is pretty cool, used that for a few years on the ranger. Some performance dudes will use those brackets and install a chain there, forcing the engine to stop twisting and forcing the torque into the rear driveshaft
Pulling an OHV is pretty simple
Drop the transmission crossmember and you can lower the t case and trans enough to see all of the bellhousing bolts. I use a 24-32" extension and do all of the BH bolts from around the back of the tailhousing at once
You have to put a socket on the front of the crank damper and turn the engine so you can access each converter bolt through the starter port.
Access ports!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA that's a good one!!
This isn't a Chevy!
Pulling the upper intake makes it alot easier for some people, you can get the top 2 bellhousing bolts from behind the engine and the trans dipstick bolt is up there too.
For a first timer pulling the inner fender skirts is a good idea.
If you break the exhaust bolt off in the manifold, no bother, with a torch you will be able to get the remaining stud out of the manifold easier when its out of the truck
I always chase the threads on those manifolds before any exhaust bolts go back in
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I build custom RBV, specializing in drivetrain conversions, wiring, suspension and complete custom trucks
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