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Copper Nickel Brake Line       #: 2161
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX,
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 Posted: Tue Jun 9th, 2020 10:03 pm
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JAMMAN

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 I have never used Copper Nickel Brake Line. I always buy the steel. Why? I really don't know. It gets good reviews but it seems "Wimpy" to me, like the least little bump would pinch it or snagging a branch during an impromptu 4 wheeling session would certainly tear it?

What have others experienced? Does it feel more spongy if you make a long run with it? Like RABS to rear rubber line on an ex cab or long bed single cab?



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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2020 02:28 am
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chris

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 I use nothing else. Kunifer tube is strong and best of all does not rust.

The lines should be well supported and run out of harms way anyway.

Makes no difference to pedal feel.



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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2020 10:34 am
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mhoward
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 I have always used the standard steel line (which is also good for many other applications).  I don't see the need for stainless or other more costly materials.



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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2020 12:15 pm
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Scrambler82
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 Believe it or not the S/S lines weren't too bad in price, can't remember exactly but I wouldn't have purchased them it the cost was too high.
The Copper Nickel Lines sound decent and if you use the serial S/S wire wrap (Stone Guard) there would be less chance of damage.  As Chris has stated, mount them high out of the way !
Some say the S/S are harder to bend, I had no problems, even when I screwed up with a bend, with a little work you can unbend it... if the bend isn't too tight.

Anyone have any comments on the Double Flaring Tool (DFT) ?

My tool was getting old (reality) and I was getting about 75% good Double Flares, I got in the habit to leave a little extra material to cover up my mistakes.

When/IF I get to the new frame thing, I'm thinking of trying the Copper-Nickel Lines.

Ltr



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2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
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Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2020 04:29 pm
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Mike69

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 Jim & Scrambler82, working with the copper/nickel lines are great, they bend easily without kinking & are easy to flare. I have replaced several of the steel brake lines on my Ranger & I am planning on using the line for the fuel lines on my 69 Mustang with the copper/nickel. Here is the one I use to do the brake line flaring. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6502-Master-Brake-Flaring/dp/B0075XHDHI



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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2020 05:26 pm
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Scrambler82
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 Mike69 wrote:
Jim & Scrambler82, working with the copper/nickel lines are great, they bend easily without kinking & are easy to flare. I have replaced several of the steel brake lines on my Ranger & I am planning on using the line for the fuel lines on my 69 Mustang with the copper/nickel. Here is the one I use to do the brake line flaring. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6502-Master-Brake-Flaring/dp/B0075XHDHI
Good to know that the Copper-Nickel Lines work out.


Your tool is similar to the tool I used, I have it still but it is showing its age

Are there better or worse Double Flaring Tools ?

I am not sure if I will ever use one again but if I do I would like a decent one THAT WORKS !

Ltr



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2020 06:59 pm
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 Scrambler82 wrote:

Are there better or worse Double Flaring Tools ?

I am not sure if I will ever use one again but if I do I would like a decent one THAT WORKS !

Ltr

I didn't know that there were other styles.  Are there?  I have been using this kind for 35 years.  For me, it's about prepping the line properly.  That is what it always took to get good flares.
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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2020 07:21 pm
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JAMMAN

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 I bought a cheap one years ago. It was OK for anything but the most popular size.... 3/16. The clamp press thingy has to rotate and hit the side of the line holder thingy. Works out except in the 3/16 position one of the sides of the clamp press thingy (looks like a puller) hits the nut on the line clamp which pushes everything at an angle and causes a horrid crimp.


I used it like a dozen times, I would clamp it in a vise and hold the press thing with a crescent wrench. Well I don't have a vise yet at home AND I loaned it out once not thinking. The mandrel on the 3/16 flare button got bent.

I bought another, spent like 60 bucks and it worked much better still not what I wanted. I couldn't check it out, it was in a plastic box wrapped with cardboard sleeve and plastic saran wrap. Gotta love these days.

I wonder how much you have to pay to get a really good one.



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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2020 07:47 pm
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Scrambler82
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 Ordinary Biker wrote:

I didn't know that there were other styles.  Are there?  I have been using this kind for 35 years.  For me, it's about prepping the line properly.  That is what it always took to get good flares.

JAMMAN wrote:
I bought a cheap one years ago. It was OK for anything but the most popular size.... 3/16. The clamp press thingy has to rotate and hit the side of the line holder thingy. Works out except in the 3/16 position one of the sides of the clamp press thingy (looks like a puller) hits the nut on the line clamp which pushes everything at an angle and causes a horrid crimp.


I used it like a dozen times, I would clamp it in a vise and hold the press thing with a crescent wrench. Well I don't have a vise yet at home AND I loaned it out once not thinking. The mandrel on the 3/16 flare button got bent.

I bought another, spent like 60 bucks and it worked much better still not what I wanted. I couldn't check it out, it was in a plastic box wrapped with cardboard sleeve and plastic saran wrap. Gotta love these days.

I wonder how much you have to pay to get a really good one.

Exactly what I was thinking... a good one !

I have used the standard double flaring Tolstoys but nothing that just worked without a lot of double checking.

I always found if I paid attention to the initial die use, the one with the pin in the center, if that squashed the tubing and pulled the outer edge in towards the pin, then the flare usually worked.


I may take some time looking into that.

Ltr



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2020 07:59 pm
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Scrambler82
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 Just went out to the all knowledgable U-Tube... looked up Double Flaring... watched this video:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpT3jEnmmRs;

I learned something right off the bat, all of my playing with the initial thing setting, guessing more than not, and it was right in front of me.   You use the Adapter with the Pin to set the initial tubing depth.

Also, this video was for Copper-Nickel Tubing.

Ltr

Added:   

Looks like there is a Hydraulic Flaring Tool ($250+), but other than that it looks like all of the kits are similar so all you need to do is buy the Name Brand you like, i.e. Snap-On, Craftsman, or others, and get to it !


There was mention of a Triple Kit, it had the Standard Flare, the Double Flare, and the Metric Bubble Flare... "Metric Bubble Flare" I had never heard of that one until today, funny !  

The Triple Kit was about $60-90, just the Standard Flaring kit were around $40-50 and the Standard Kit with a Double Flaring setup was $60+ !  I'm sure if you buy Snap-On you will be paying more... 

I will be using my old kit, and use the tip I just learned about the initial tubing setup and see how things work out; may have to practice a little !

Ltr

Last edited on Wed Jun 10th, 2020 08:15 pm by Scrambler82



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Thu Jun 11th, 2020 10:59 am
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chris

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 JAMMAN wrote:
I bought a cheap one years ago. It was OK for anything but the most popular size.... 3/16. The clamp press thingy has to rotate and hit the side of the line holder thingy. Works out except in the 3/16 position one of the sides of the clamp press thingy (looks like a puller) hits the nut on the line clamp which pushes everything at an angle and causes a horrid crimp.


I used it like a dozen times, I would clamp it in a vise and hold the press thing with a crescent wrench. Well I don't have a vise yet at home AND I loaned it out once not thinking. The mandrel on the 3/16 flare button got bent.

I bought another, spent like 60 bucks and it worked much better still not what I wanted. I couldn't check it out, it was in a plastic box wrapped with cardboard sleeve and plastic saran wrap. Gotta love these days.

I wonder how much you have to pay to get a really good one.
About $200.



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 Posted: Thu Jun 11th, 2020 11:08 am
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JAMMAN

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 Which is about 30% of what most of us pay for Rangers LOL cheap Americans.

Wish I would have had time to research, I had like one day and all the auto parts stores around here sell Chinese junk.



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 Posted: Thu Jun 11th, 2020 12:41 pm
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chris

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 Look for Sykes Pickavent - https://www.sykes-pickavant.com/products/braking-tools/pipe-flaring-tools



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 Posted: Fri Jun 12th, 2020 11:22 am
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Scrambler82
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 Chris,

Not all American Mechanics are cheap, some do buy decent tools and for WAY to much $$$ !

The problem come in when an individual wants tools, isn't a full fledged Mechanic and all he can find are CHEAP CHINESE POS Tools.

Ltr



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Fri Jun 12th, 2020 11:25 pm
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 Scrambler82 wrote:
Chris,

Not all American Mechanics are cheap, some do buy decent tools and for WAY to much $$$ !

The problem come in when an individual wants tools, isn't a full fledged Mechanic and all he can find are CHEAP CHINESE POS Tools.

Ltr
I look at a job that requires tools that I don't have as a bonus.  I can learn how to do something new, and I get to buy new tools.  I usually spend on a decent tool, so it will be around for a while.
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