How to disconnect Front & Rear drive - General Technical Questions - Tech Section

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PartyOn
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I am buying a class A RV, and I am planning to 'flat tow' (i.e. all 4 wheels on the ground) a 4x4 vehicle behind the RV.
I currently own a '04 Ranger 4x4 automatic.
The Owner's Guide for the Ranger says both the front and rear drive shafts must be disconnected in order to tow it at speeds above 35 MPH.
I am trying to decide if flat towing my Ranger is a practical concept, or whether I should buy a different vehicle to tow behind the RV.

Anyone on this forum have first-hand experience with flat towing a 4x4 Ford Ranger automatic?

What is involved with disconnecting the front and rear drive shafts for this purpose?

Thanks.

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Posted: Thu Mar 5th, 2020 02:58 pm

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JAMMAN

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I've taken them off before but it has been a year, I know there are a couple sockets that make it easier I own them. 410 and black06 both do this in their sleep I'm sure they will chime in soon.

In the mean time, I tow 4WD rangers with a dolly under the rear wheels. Not sure if this is legal in some states.

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Posted: Thu Mar 5th, 2020 07:33 pm

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You need to really think this through as to what you must do every time you tow, and every time you disconnect your Ranger to drive it.
You are going to have to disconnect every time you tow it, even if only for a day, to get to your next campground.
When you get there, you will have to re-connect to use it for a drive, or even to disconnect it to back your class a into a spot. Even if it's a pull through spot, chances are, unless the spot os perfectly level, you will have to disconnect the Ranger, meaning the shafts have to go back on.
And, then there is the connect/disconnect in inclement weather, and even going thru the routine in good weather but in dirt....not fun.
You may want to consider a trailer for the Ranger, depending on the tow rating of your RV.
We have a class c and flat tow a Subaru Crosstrek, manual. Have towed to around 50,000 miles across USA and Canada 4 times now, so I am familiar with flat towing.
No way would I ever tow a vehicle that had to have shafts removed every time I wanted to tow the toad, and then reconnect to use it. On one trip. 13,000 miles and 3 months I guess we used the Subi at least 50 days, and I just cannot imagine connecting/disconnecting the shafts that many times.
If your planning on going to an area and staying for a period of time and then moving on for another long stay, OK. But if your trips include many stops af a day or two and then moving on, you may want to rethink the Ranger.
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Posted: Thu Mar 5th, 2020 08:13 pm

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Idahome

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my question is why do you have to disconnect them to flat tow it?

You MIGHT be able to swap to a manual 1354 transfer case and put the t case in N for flat towing
Then nothing in front of the t case is spinning

OR

You can also put the E shift 1354 T case in Neutral but you have to remove the shift motor first and turn the knob with pliers or a spare t case shift motor plastic gear.
(There is a N pos on the e shift t case....but the shift motor will not reach it)
With the BW1354 t case in N the truck/engine/trans has no idea if its rolling or not................seems to be a much more simple solution

I use dewalt impact (20V 1100 ft lbs breakaway force) with a 8" 1/2" wobbly extension and 12 point 12mm socket...I can remove the rear d shaft with that tool quickly....
the front d shaft uses a 1/4" drive 8mm and 10-12" extension w a torx 30 at the U joint I used small Dewalt impact for those
driveshafts come put quickly
Now putting them back in takes more time.
I always clean the threads and re apply loc tite, also I use hand tools to re install, not impacts

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Posted: Fri Mar 6th, 2020 08:33 am

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Grumpaw
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Certain auto trans, even if in neutral, will still have their internal parts turning due to the drive shaft turning. Some auto trans have the ability to lube these moving parts under tow, while others do not. They have an internal pump that operates while the shaft is turning.
For years there were many auto trans equipped vehicles that could be flat towed, but they are becoming fewer each year.
Apparently the Ranger auto trans cannot lube internally while not running, thus the drive shafts must be disconnected.
To the OP, you will either have to trailer your Ranger or disconnect the shafts every time you want to tow, and reconnect everytime you want to drive it.
I would love to be able to tow my 2009 Ranger, auto trans, but not worth the trouble.
Grumpaw

Last edited on Fri Mar 6th, 2020 08:36 am by Grumpaw

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Posted: Fri Mar 6th, 2020 09:20 am

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Idahome

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"Apparently the Ranger auto trans cannot lube internally while not running, thus the drive shafts must be disconnected.

To the OP, you will either have to trailer your Ranger or disconnect the shafts every time you want to tow, and reconnect everytime you want to drive it."

Thanks grumpaw!!!

However we are not typical Ranger owners here.

What the owners manual and other typical Ranger owners and RV owners do not know, is that you can put the transfer case in N on a 4x4 and the output shaft of the 5r55e auto trans will never turn............

With a manual shift t case this is quite easy the N position is between 4hi and 4 low

With the e shift t case you must remove the shift motor from the back of the t case (using a 10mm socket) and you an then shift that t case into N also
The transfer case even has a "N" imprinted on it to show the N position, under the shift motor

Advance Adapters sells the "shiftster" which can manually shift the e transfer cases.
You can drill a hole in it for the N position as well

Flat towing is covered on many Ranger forums and putting the T case in N is a heck of alot easier then removing driveshafts!!

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Posted: Fri Mar 6th, 2020 09:47 am

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Grumpaw
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Obviously you guys know your 4x4 Rangers better than I do.
Just saying that if owners manual states proper way to tow 4 down is to remove the shafts, it will become a pain in the arse to have to disconnect/connect every time you want to tow/drive the Ranger.
This is an extensive topic on several RV sites I'm on, and the general consensus is that it's better to just get a vehicle thats safe to tow 4 down without the aggravation of removing shafts.
I would suggest to the OP that he visit, as a guest, some of the better RV web sites like IRV2 or Forrest River Forums and look at the classified section. Always many vehicles already set up to be towed for sale.
It would also give him some idea of what vehicles can be towed 4 down.
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Posted: Fri Mar 6th, 2020 11:31 am

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JAMMAN

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410customs wrote:
The transfer case even has a "N" imprinted on it to show the N position, under the shift motor

I've seen it and never made the connection!
Now if the AWD had a position for rear only...

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Posted: Thu Apr 23rd, 2020 02:22 pm

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PartyOn
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Thanks everyone for all the insight on my question.
FYI - I have the BW 13-54-000-049 transfer case on my Ranger.

My conclusions so far:
- Disconnecting drive shafts is not feasible for how I plan to use the towed Ranger
- I don't want to change out the transfer case
- I might be able to install a drive line disconnect device such as this one to make my 2004 4x4 Ranger towable:

Not clear how this addresses the need to disconnect the front drive shaft - will need to contact the mfg.
Any member experiences with this type of device on a 4x4 Ranger?

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Posted: Thu Apr 23rd, 2020 04:25 pm

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PartyOn
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I was able to contact the manufacturer (REMCO) of the drive shaft disconnect device I mentioned in my previous post, and this is a summary of the info.
I would need to provide measurements related to my existing drive shaft.
REMCO would then build a new drive shaft with the disconnect feature integrated.
I would keep the old drive shaft.
Cost for the part (SKU-2) is $1125
As I mentioned in my orig. post, the user manual for my Ranger 4x4 states that both the front and rear drive shafts need to be disconnected.
REMCO says there is no need to disconnect front drive shaft if the electronic transfer case switch is in 2WD mode.
(This makes sense to me, but if any forum gurus here think differently, please speak up)

I searched for the nifty adapter that was mentioned by 410customs in this thread which converts E shifting TC to a M shifting TC.
Found it on this (Russian Federation domain) website:
http://advanceadapters.ru/products/715562-shiftster---manual-shifting-knob-for-electric-borg-warner-transfer-cases/
But could not find it on Advance Adapters US web site - waiting to get the reply to my query.
Looks like that solution ($62) would be the simplest and the least expensive if it still exists.

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Posted: Thu Apr 23rd, 2020 05:36 pm

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PartyOn
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After further research, it looks like the Shiftster idea will not work for flat towing.
I found this video on YouTube that shows the BW1354 TC with the motor removed.
Refer to time 4:00 and later for the explanation of the 'N' position.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RV60lf_hwec&feature=youtu.be

You can see the 'N' position marked on the TC casting, as mentioned in a previous reply in this thread.
*HOWEVER*, when the TC is in the 'N' position the result is the following:
- input shaft (i.e. transmission) is disconnected -- this is good
- Front and Rear output shafts are connected to each other -- not good for flat towing a vehicle

I have no experience with transfer cases, so let me know if I am misunderstanding the info above.
Thanks.

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Posted: Sat Apr 25th, 2020 10:16 am

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Idahome

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when a 1354 is in N it is in N
the output shafts are not connected to each other???
I'm going to make you a video as I have a few 1354 downstairs in the shop

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Posted: Sat Apr 25th, 2020 10:58 am

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PartyOn
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I contacted Advance Adapters. They no longer sell the Shiftster because the supplier no longer manufactures the item. Too bad because it looks like a really handy item that was well made.

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Posted: Sat Jun 6th, 2020 04:29 pm

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december45
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When I look at the owners manual for my '03 it states specifically the 4X4 automatic can be flat towed, (recreational) when dealer installed kit is installed.
My research has shown that the kit consists of a LED light plugged into a connector under the steering wheel column (green end on connector) and a change to the GEM module to enable transfer case neutral.
The instructions I have been able to find to accomplish this update refers to NGS NGS+ and WDS systems for the Ford tech to make changes. Apparently these are all obsolete methods and the Ford dealerships in my area use the IDS. I also have contacted "FORScan" that is NOT a feature that is available.
Right now I am stuck trying to find an Independent shop that uses the Ford NGS NGS+ or WDS. I will include the instructions that I have found for anyone who can figure out how to make these changes to the GEM

USING NGS SERVICE (GREEN) CARD
CONNECT TO VEHICLE VIA THE DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
SELECT â€œSERVICE BAY FUNCTIONSâ€
SELECT â€œ4X4 CONTROL MODULEâ€
SELECT â€œNEUTRAL TOW FUNCTIONâ€
SELECT â€œEXPLORERâ€
PRESS TRIGGER AND SCROLL TO ENABLE OR DISABLE
PRESS TRIGGER AGAIN AFTER HIGHLIGHTING THE DESIRED STATE PRESS â€œDONEâ€
USING NGS+
SELECT PROPER VEHICLE AND MODEL YEAR
SELECT DIAGNOSTIC DATA LINK
SELECT 4X4 MODULE
SELECT FUNCTION TESTS
SELECT NEUTRAL TOW ENABLE
SCROLL TO ENABLE OR DISABLE NTF AND PRESS TRIGGER
USING WDS
CONNECT TO VEHICLE VIA THE DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
FOLLOW HOOK UP SCREEN
AFTER WDS DISPLAYS VEHICLE INFO, SELECT TOOL BOX ON TOP OF SCREEN FROM ON SCREEN MENU SELECT â€œMODULE PROGRAMMINGâ€
SELECT â€œPROGRAMMABLE PARAMETTERSâ€
SELECT â€œNEUTRAL TOW FUNCTIONâ€
FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS ON THE WDS TO COMPLETE OPERATION
FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS ON THE LABEL ON THE HEADLINER / VISOR LABEL TO ENABLE AND DISABLE NEUTRAL FUNCTION.

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Posted: Tue Jun 9th, 2020 10:53 am

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PartyOn
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Thanks for that info. - is your vehicle a 2003 Ranger, or a 2003 Explorer?
The reason I ask is I have never seen any information anywhere that suggests a 2003 or 2004 Ford Ranger with 4x4 Automatic can be flat towed, and there was never a Ford Neutral Tow Kit for those vehicles either.

This is the flat tow info for 2003 Ford Ranger 4x4
https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/downloads/TOAD%20TOWABLES/towing_03.pdf

This is the flat tow info for 2004 Ford Ranger 4x4
https://pictures.dealer.com/wkcdjramcllc/5d2512d80a0e0ca37432ffaa3be0f333.pdf

I have found online that Ford used to sell a part (Ford Part No.: 3L2Z-7H332-AA) called 'Neutral Tow Kit.
That kit was for Rangers 2007-2011 4x4 automatic.
Unfortunately that kit has been discontinued and is not longer available for purchase.

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Posted: Tue Jun 9th, 2020 03:45 pm

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december45
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Party on
You are correct, my mistake, I am so confused!
For some reason I was sure the Ranger, Explorer and Sport Trac could all be flat towed with the "kit" I do not know how I over looked that huge fact.
I dove back into researching this, I was sure I was going to prove you wrong but I stand corrected.
Now I have some questions.
Correct me if I am wrong... but it looks to me that the '07 '08 and '09 Ranger 4x4 automatic can be towed with the "kit". It also appears that the 2010 and the 2011 can also be flat towed with the "kit" however I did find some comments that the '10 was not flat towable.
Are the transfer cases different in the explorer and ranger?
As for the "kit" what I have found out, and it is only what I have read, the kit consists of an LED light it plugs in under the dash completing a circuit, when I last checked Ford wanted $250 for the "kit" ( I found one in North Carolina) and my guess is that you can buy a LED light for about $2.50. The rest of the kit is instructions mostly on how to make the changes to the GEM using NGS NGS+ WDS. Thats it nothing more that I can tell.

Kind of an interesting story, I was set to buy a 2003 4X4 manual shift 4.0 Ranger, the deal was done and when I went to pick it up well the guy forgot to tell me the A/C does not work. Well it ended where we didn't get that truck, how ever I was under the impression that 4X4 Manual could be flat towed but now I think not, after reading and digging deeper into the research of what years can be flat towed. If I have it correct the 2wheel drive manual is the only 2003 ranger that can be flat towed. So it looks like I dodged a big bullet.
I have found a couple of 2010 Rangers 4x4 with automatics that from what I can figure out, can be flat towed with the kit. I still need to find some one who can actually enable the transfer case to be placed in neutral.
Thanks again for helping me figure out what is going one with flat towing Ranger.

One last question why could the '07 and up be flat towed with a kit but previous years not?

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Posted: Thu Jun 11th, 2020 09:45 am

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Idahome

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explorer transfer cases are generally torque on demand, a sort of AWD
The Ranger cases never had TOD

All Ranger t cases that I know of (BW1350 and 1354, from 1983-2011) have a neutral position, its just not something you can shift into from the factory, you have to make it shift into N either manually or with some sort of aftermarket "kit"

The Explorer used the 1354 and the 4405 and 4404 (these are TOD 4wd transfer cases) not sure why a TOD case can be flat towed with a dealer installed kit and the other cases cannot????

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Posted: Thu Jun 11th, 2020 11:22 am

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PartyOn
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After much research, and discussion in this forum, I am convinced there is no way to modify a 2004 4x4 automatic Ranger to have the ability to electronically shift the transfer case to Neutral unless I replace some expensive parts to model year 2007-2011.
Not willing to make that investment into a vehicle that has 176K miles.

That leaves the possibility of manually shifting the transfer case to Neutral.
And that takes us back to an earlier post where I found a Youtube video that appeared to demonstrate shifting my model of TC to 'N' resulted in the following configuration:
- input shaft (i.e. transmission) is disconnected -- this is good for flat towing
- Front and Rear output shafts are connected to each other -- NOT good for flat towing a vehicle
410customs: you had the understanding that the output shafts should not be connected when TC is in 'N'. Were you able to verify what happens to the output shafts when the TC is in 'N'?

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Posted: Fri Jun 12th, 2020 09:46 am

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I have not yet! I will do that today!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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