True Travel Dynamics Long Travel for 98- - Suspension Tech - Tech Section

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Arthur
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Hi,

I've searched around but didn't find any topic about these guys:

True Travel Dynamics
They make Long Travel kits for all the usual makes, but also, it would seem for the '98-'11 Ranger in 2WD AND 4wd

There's a +2 kit (12" travel)
https://truetraveldynamics.com/shop/98-11-ford-ranger-4wd-2-long-travel-kit/

and a +4.5 kit (16" travel)
https://truetraveldynamics.com/shop/98-11-ford-ranger-4wd-4-5-long-travel-kit/

I'm guessing the +2 and +4,5 refers to track width as most other LT kits (BTF, Camburg etc..) are +4,5 inches wide?

They're big $$$ as usual for these kinds of kits, US$3750 for the +2 and US$4200 for the +4,5 without shocks/coilovers
They're actually built fot dual shocks (coilover+bypass) but I guess you could run just a coilover.

It's a bit much for me, shame since the +2 kit is the kind of mid travel setup i'd like, not too wide.
Actually it would be the best setup, until now I've been looking more to a hybrid Superlift or RC lift + coilover conversion and BTF uniball upper arms. (anyone know how much travel you can get out of the oem CV's ? a little more than the factory 7" i would think?)

Anyone any experience with this outfit?

edit: ok why does it keep posting 'backslash' before every ' and it doesn't show in the preview?

Last edited on Thu Apr 25th, 2019 04:25 pm by Arthur

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Posted: Thu Apr 25th, 2019 10:47 pm

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Scrambler82
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I have never seen the Brand before but I haven't been looking.
Check ed out the Links... wow, the numbers stagger me... Way ou too my price range... $3800 for the 2" and $4200 for the 4.5".

What lift do you get out of these kits ?

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Hurst Shifter
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Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !

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Posted: Tue Feb 11th, 2020 09:37 pm

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Scrambler82
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Almost a year old, nothing said about the lift in this kit if any !
I just e-mailed the Manufacturer, asking the the lift in the +2" and the +4.5" Kits... if any, and the adaptability of these kit with a 5" Lift, either SuperLift or the newer RC 5" Kit.
I am trying to get a better ride from the standard Ranger frame and aftermarket suspensions , didn't wan tot go wire but was talking to a Guy here in town that does Desert Trucks and he showed me some videos of a BII with a lift running at speed and doing some great jumps over sand and running over 2 to 3 foot dips, and the BII road straight and level. He comment was, "It's all in the Shocks".
Waiting to hear, hoping for the best.

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Posted: Wed Feb 12th, 2020 09:07 am

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Idahome

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what color was this bii?

the +2 and + 4.5 should be the additional track width built into the control arms
If they bolt onto a Ranger then they can bolt onto a Ranger fitted with a Superlift or RCX drop bracket kit
Of course the length of the coilover can be increased when you use drop brackets to lower the suspension/diff down from the frame
The factory CV axles max out VERY easily....which is why you need additional width if you want more travel.

Width = cheater travel at the wheel. The further away you put the tire from the control arm pivot point the more wheel travel you get.
With additional width the CV axle is still within its range of motion, its just longer now which results in more travel at the wheel.

Custom parts require custom parts. What I mean is once you go to a custom lower control arm with uniball or some sort of custom ball joint and a lengthened stock CV axle you will always need those parts to replace what breaks. It is a snowball of money so to speak, you gotta pay to play and carrying spare parts just got that much harder.
I think MOST Ranger owners would be happy with just a good drop bracket lift and if you want a super smooth ride and lift you ditch the torsion bars and run a threaded body coilover shock
If you still want more then the $4500 is WELL WORTH IT, but that is just to get a kit in your hands....you still need coilovers, bump stops, install, custom coilover tower/mount, fabrication for limit straps, extend the cv axles, etc etc.......the saying goes:
"labor is expensive, parts are cheap"

There are a few desertfab shops that pop up here and there and offer custom parts.....are they going to be around when you broke a LCA and need a replacement? You had better hope so!
I'm happy to see BTF is still around, there is another shop in Vegas making IFS 4x4 kits too....I forget the name, hopefully some of these kits have staying power and will be available for years to come...
Sometimes I just love my TTB, the ttb is long travel for 4x4 guys that is cheap when compared to the IFS systems. Apparently even Ford still likes the TTB, I heard even new superduties still use it!!

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Posted: Wed Feb 12th, 2020 09:30 am

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Scrambler82
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Thanks for the input Jamie, the color of the BII was Red and White.

The lift thing is what I was thinking but wasn't completely sure.

Yes I wish Ford had stayed with the TTB but progress... I guess you call it that... the new Ranger is the best example of progress, LoL !

I was talking to a custom shop about the Tire Travel Kits, he said he would check them out, I was thinking +2 kit and keep my SuperLift Parts inplace, which as you said will require longer length Coil Overs.

I ditched the T-Bars about six or so years ago, never regretted it, when in New England but here in SoCal and the road I live off of is an un-kept County Road, driving it every day after day the little Ranger bounces around A LOT ! PITA everyday in and day out !

The Shop I looked into is called "Steel Nuts", and the one thing I liked about it was the Main Dude said, the ride is all in the Shocks and the Shock of choice is Fox !
I was told the manufacturer of Suspension Parts but don't remember, didn't really know the name to begin with.
My main problem with most of these long travel kit IS the +2, +4.5... each side, I don't want to run the bulging fenders, not for me, so if this +2 kit is a good one, it might be workable. Then there is the rear, I guess spacers come in here somewhere, or a Full Floater Kit which widens the axle by 3.5".

I should just be happy with what is there now, works goo enough and get me around.

Jamie, Have you ever heard of a D44 Front Differential Assembly for a Ranger ? Maybe from an F150 ?

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Posted: Wed Feb 12th, 2020 09:39 am

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Idahome

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TTB guys and solid axle guys use D44 parts in their rangers yes.
I have never heard of anyone replacing the IFS center section with an upgraded diff, no, that would be very involved.
If you were to upgrade anything to me it would be the unit bearings and brakes, the dana 35 diff (center section) is pretty dang strong even with 35-37" tires.

I can put a dana 44 ttb under my bronco and get 18" of wheel travel, huge brakes, huge wheel bearings, overkill hubs, etc Wheel bolt circle changes to 5 on 5.5
see here:
https://autofab.com/i-19736288-ranger-4x4-to-model-44-front-suspension.html
My BII came with a dana 28 ttb, I replaced it with a explorer dana 35 ttb, then we built custom cut and turned beams and eventually added 97 ranger outers for dual piston calipers with no slide pins.
The dana 44 outers or a full dana 44 ttb for my BII is something I have been considering.
wider is better!
I have not had any issues with 35" tires on the Dana 35 setup I have now, my locker and gear setup is $1500+ to duplicate, so changing/upgrading it is not high priority

Of course many Rangers have gone solid axle swap, using a Dana 30 or dana 44 solid axle.

Fox shocks are nice but in the desert and at the hammers pretty sure KING is winning the battles, KING shocks are wicked wicked good quality
I am also a big fan of Rad flo and Sway away...cant go wrong with any of those names

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Posted: Wed Feb 12th, 2020 09:44 pm

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Scrambler82
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Jamie,

Your opinion please, would you use a solid axle D44 or add to the D35 in an '03 Ranger ?

I am partial to a solid axle except for the extra height tha tis needed to install it, I don't like the 6 or 7" type lifts.

Reason for asking... I have access to a stretched Early Bronco Frame (111.7" WB), yes a lot of work but swapping the Ranger Body to that frame isn't out of the question.
I have a local shop that will make mounts and swap the body and wire a three wire engine harness to run off exiting wiring for just over 3K$. Seems reasonable with the amount of work that would be needed.

Last edited on Wed Feb 12th, 2020 09:47 pm by Scrambler82

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Posted: Thu Feb 13th, 2020 09:03 am

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Idahome

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What do you plan to do with the truck?
Solid axle is awesome for traction and most types of wheeling
IFS is better for daily drivers, mild trail use, higher speed type of wheeling

Early bronco frames are heavy pigs from the 60's!!
I would prefer to start with a Ranger frame myself, something from the 80's or 90's with the ttb
The ttb trucks already have a form of IFS and they also have coil buckets and a steering gear box, much much easier to solid axle swap

It all comes down to one thing:
intended use of the truck/build

I drive a TTB truck daily
I also drive IFS Explorers and Rangers ALOT
I own many solid axle trucks (F350, Excursion)
I still prefer my TTB for my use, I get the best of both worlds
I can add a sway bar to make a independent suspension act like a solid axle, but a solid axle can never be independent
Solid axle is awesome for traction, strength and articulation, but does not handle daily driver duties like a IFS suspension

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Posted: Thu Feb 13th, 2020 11:09 am

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Scrambler82
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My driving style has change as I get older.
I drive the main road more than trails now but I do like an occasional trail ride but not heavy rock crawling.
I'm trying to get rid of the IFS Frame because it really doesn't allow for a solid axle and reasonable lift, want to tun 33" tires so I'm thinking about 5" of lift will work.

Also, I was thinking I wanted to make the Ranger heavier and the heavy frame will work to that end. Reason for the heavier Truck is pulling an RV Tariler, not a big one, 24', but I want to be able to tow it and stop it and then it the tractor and trailer, about 4500 lbs.

My overall idea is instead of buying a new truck that I both don't want to spend that kind of money and I am really not happy with what's out there, I would like just my '03 Ranger with a new HD Chassis, 5.)L, 4 speed OD Trans (?), my 31 spline large tube 8.8 for the rear and a D44 I have, TJ Width, for the front.
This will give me more weight, and reliability in strength, so I can get what I want done.

I working on the electronics end of things now, a new audio system with backup camera, Apple Car Play, etc, and a sensing system for alerts around the truck, looking into the auto high beam and auto on off headlights.
Won't be a brand new truck but it will have a lot of new parts in it so I will have to get some of that new vehicle spray... LoL !

I have been reading about the EB Frame, the width is similar and the WB can be ordered, I have a local shop that will do most of the work of installing the body of the Ranger on the Frame with drivetrain. The suspension, I'm up in the air here, stock bronco has some problems but there is four link, with air bags in the rear for weight carrying, and of course heavier leaf spring and Coils as a fall back. The leafs and coils won't do much for the ride so that is way back in the order of things.

I wanted to do most of the stuff myself but I got old without knowing and doing a lot of work like this isn't in the cards and there is something to say about driving it to the shop and coming back in a month and driving it home all converted.

Too bad I don't live closer to you, would be a good project !

Thanks for the info, appreciate your effort.

Ltr

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Posted: Thu Feb 13th, 2020 11:54 am

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Idahome

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2003 with solid axle would do nicely, as long as the SAS is done properly you can get a nice ride from a solid axle

Dana 44 is a good match up front for the 31 spline 8.8 rear, both overkill for a V8 Ranger

I would KEEP your truck and YOUR frame.
There is ALOT of work to be done to make a EB frame work with a 2003 truck.....like fuel injection conversion $$$$$, the gt40 explorer 5.0 actually fits your 03 frame better then it fits the EB frame......the EB frame has issues with the explorer serpentine setup, uses a very expensive custom rear fuel tank for EFI conversions, and its 60+ years old.... its going to need some serious fabrication. I think it would be easier and cheaper to work with what you have, even if you decide solid axle.

SAS on a IFS Ranger is done ALL THE TIME, it has been figured out in 100 ways, 5 link in the front with coils or coilovers, adding a steering gear box is not terribly difficult, but usually the engine cradle needs to go away to make room for the new links and steering

Honestly for your use I would stick with the IFS and bring it up to par with a locker, lift kit, torsion bar delete....this is a much easier route and will still perform excellent on trails when you decide to take them. The money you save not trying to put a 03 body on a 60's frame can be put towards long travel if you like.......sell that dana 44 and put the $$$ into your existing platform!

There are so many ways to build a Ranger it can be really easy to over think stuff. I hear you wanting the modern body on the old school frame because of the ease of the steering gear box and coil front solid axle....the middle of the road here would be to start with a 93-97 Ranger........your 03 goes right onto one of those, they already have coil towers and a steering gear box, just missing a trac bar bracket which is sold everywhere

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Posted: Thu Feb 13th, 2020 01:43 pm

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Scrambler82
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I didn't know the -03 would fit a '97 frame... wasn't the wheel base increased when the cabs size was changed, always thought that !

Everything you write bring new ideas to the table but the fitment of the frame/body will need to looked at.

A new stretched, early bronco frame is around 3K, I have the axles, something like a Duff Suspension, not to sure what's out there, will run another 4K and having this local shop do the mods and the engine wiring for another 3K, we are talking 10K... THEN, the SHOCKS, Coil Over, with by-pass shocks, another 4K, with just the reservoirs around 2K.

That brings the cost to around 8 to $10K, now all of the incidentals start to come in the picute and I have no idea about them yet, but lets say around 5K, so we are up to 15 and by the time we are done I would believe $20K. Still well below the cost of a new truck and I have something that will be heavy duty for its size, and something I like. Yes 60-70's engineering but the same type of suspension was used up through the 80s in the F150 series and even later on the F250 and F350's

Only problem is the ride !

Getting a Ranger frame is around 2k new, IF you can find one, buying all of the suspension part, which would have to be mail ordered because the closest JY to me is around 5 hours away, will add to the price and fast. What I have is still 70's & 80's engineering, so not that much further ahead. Then there is approximately the same costs to change things over to the new frame, $3K, rewiring... (?). This only points out about $5K but that is only the beginning and as I've stated, things always add up faster and further than you think they will.

Again, thanks for all of the information, good to think on this stuff because I always change my mind more than I like.

I will post something when I make a move but the "Master Procrastinator" has to think on it for a while.

Last edited on Thu Feb 13th, 2020 01:46 pm by Scrambler82

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Posted: Thu Feb 13th, 2020 02:09 pm

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Idahome

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2003 Ranger into 97 Ranger frame is alot closer then EB to 03 Ranger

Starting with a new stretched EB frame is waaay better then what I was thinking some rusted out old EB frame with needs

I have a 05 ranger frame out back I would sell it for a few hundred
I kept it around because I always like to build stuff and was thinking of boxing it fully the go from there

The duff solid axle radius arm suspension is pretty nice, I would have to consider a 4-5 link setup if we are starting from scratch
only reason to stick with the Ford radius arm suspension is because starting with a Ford coil bucket frame and steering gear box
The Jeep 4 link setup....is the way to go for a nice ride and articulation
Ever seen how much flex a 4 link ranger or explorer has? Clean wheel travel.......
http://www.jefethegreat.com/truck/pics/12-13-03_Last_Chance/sm/LC_5.jpg

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Posted: Thu Feb 13th, 2020 02:21 pm

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Scrambler82
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Yup was thinking new frame from Throttle Down Kustom, I think they were Advanced Frame Works form years back.
Been talking to them and Jeramy want to do it.

I will wait to determine the suspension for now.

Jamie, If you happen to have a IFS Ranger with its front end exposed, could you tell me the width of the front end Wheel mount to wheel mount.
The D44 I have was cut for a TJ width setup on a CJ Frame, with four links, but to determine the width of the ranger I would need to pull tire and all.

Anything you can do would be appreciated but don't go out of your way.

Thanks

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Posted: Thu Feb 13th, 2020 08:57 pm

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sure no problem have a 98 and 07 in the shop right now I can measure the 07 as I have the front end apart.....

when I plan a build I ask myself in this order:
trucks intended use
which transfer case fits the bill/transmission combo
and go from there...........

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Posted: Thu Feb 13th, 2020 09:32 pm

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Nothing wrong with 16" of wheel travel IFS 4x4!!
On our road my BII is the quickest truck in and out....so smooth on the bumps and holes our "driveway" has to offer...... The Fj cruiser is next in line with its IFS and coil spring rear suspension, also very smooth, can get in and out quickly
the solid axle trucks Excursion and F350 are SLOW in and out on this road. In the summer the 2wd van is smoooth like glass too, it has leaf sprung rear axle and 2wd equal length front TTB beams.......
IFS + daily driver = easier on you, just not easy on the wallet

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Posted: Fri Feb 14th, 2020 05:30 pm

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Scrambler82
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Nothin wrong with 16" of travel except the width of the setup, 4.5" each side.

I'm not going for a jumper, I do want a decent ride, but I don't want too much additional width.

Jamie, Thanks to you and talking with you, I have decide I'm still with the EB Frame, extended to fit the Ranger Body size.
It will give me two thing, mainly, one being heavier in weight and heavier duty than the Ranger and two availability of bolt on parts.

There is almost nothing that doesn't have a bolt kit for the Early Bronco Frame, should make some selections easier.

I'm headed out to talk to the local shop about the mating of the EB Frame and the Ranger Body.

Thanks for all of your info, and suggestions.

Ltr

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Posted: Fri Feb 14th, 2020 05:48 pm

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Wicked cool
That is the best part is planning a build and seeing it to fruition
Every truck is different this way everyone has different goals
I love to see it all
Run what ya brung so to speak

On another note i read your sig and I gotta ask how do you like the ox locker?

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Posted: Fri Feb 14th, 2020 09:26 pm

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Scrambler82
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The best part of the OX Locker is its switch ability !
Its a locker so both tires are locked and it is the only locker in the Ranger so it goes places in 2wd that some 4wd truck can't, unlocked its nice on wet roads.

I never liked the Detroit Locker, I mean its a locker, and I have one in my Scrambler, but in a light weight application the Detroit will not unlock when you need it to, especially on pavement, you get the howling jumps when turning a tight corner.

So I like it and my next truck I am thinking through I will have the OX lockers in both diffs.

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Posted: Sat Feb 15th, 2020 09:08 am

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Don't forget about the "clunk" a Detroit Locker makes to let you know the howling jumps are about to start.

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Scrambler82

Posted: Sat Feb 15th, 2020 11:00 am

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okay so I run lockers, we have ARB's here both the wife and I have them in our front and rear diffs....For me I have to have a select able so I can drive in the snow and then lock up the diffs as needed.
I only asked about the OX locker because they had some issues when they first came out that kept me away from a cable actuated unit. I am wondering how they are performing these days?
Are they still cable actuated? The ARB lockers are awesome, but the install is very important to not having air seal issues down the road....I have had to have them rebuilt a few times over the years
We are researching locker options for the 07 Ranger build and the OX is one on my list, unless I see something miraculous form the electronic lockers or cable lockers we will be going with the air ARB

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Eddie Money

Posted: Sat Feb 15th, 2020 12:06 pm

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Scrambler82
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OK on the ARB's.

The Ox Lockers are either Cable, Electric or Air Actuated, you have to add kits to get for the last two but if you consider some company's actual charge for the cable because there are different lengths you could buy the kits for 3x the price of the long cables and you have no more cable problems.
All of the OX Acuators are mounter outside of the unit, the only sealing needed is the Diff Lube.
I ran a cable, I was told it might have problems in colder weather, I didn't have problems but everyone is different, I used a Chrysler Product that sprays on and then turns to a sticky foam inside the cable. I pulled the cable to one end, sprayed in as much as I could with that little straw, pulled the cable the other way, repeat a few times and I guess I got enough in, no problems, the locker slid in every time.
One thing I liked about the Ox, and I don't know if there is an option on the ARB, there is a device where if the cable or the electrics go bad, and you lose your locker, you can take out the cable or solenoid and actuate the locker and then the device secures in place and you are locked until you take it off. A trail fix that works !

I was thinking of trying the Electric route but didn't, not too sure, I have cables but maybe I can sell them, I didn't want the Air Actuated because I don't have a compressor.

The two problems I read about on the OX are the Cable Lubication in the cold and wear and I don't know if anything has been done for them.

Last edited on Sat Feb 15th, 2020 12:10 pm by Scrambler82

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Posted: Sun Feb 16th, 2020 10:14 am

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Idahome

Joined: Wed May 2nd, 2018

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Thank you
I really like the idea of using a cable...... I mean I love my on board air and ARB lockers. ARB makes some strong strong lockers and they work awesome!
That is when you do not have any air leaks in the system then its a big huge PITA
Is the OX locker cable easy to push in and out? It says you can lock it and unlock it at any speed? Is that always the case?
Thanks again, I am trying to be careful when planning to spend Eddie's Money lmfao
On Monday Im going to call Chase at ECGS and get his thoughts, they are now a dealer for both ARB and OX

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Eddie Money

Posted: Sun Feb 16th, 2020 10:34 am

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Idahome

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I'm wondering if it was the solo motorsports BII?
No white though

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Posted: Sun Feb 16th, 2020 11:57 am

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Scrambler82
Old Bastard !

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It wasn't RED, lighter colors, I think two tone; the video I was shown the truck was jumping higher. LoL !

According to the guy, the BII was testing a new design in shocks for Fox; not only was the BII jumping but he was doing it at what looked like a high rte of speed, I was thinking this is going to be bad but the BII landed level and the suspension took to the abuse. To bad Ford didn't leave the TTB on the Rangers.

I like that RED one, great look, a 1st gen, my favorite, with a little upgrade.

Maybe I should have purchased that BII... !

Just went on line and checked out the Solo BII, Nice vehicle.

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