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Wheel spacers?       #: 218
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 Posted: Sat Dec 9th, 2017 08:07 pm
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When I changed the gears in my mustang, it was much easier once I removed the entire rend end from under the car. I know a Ranger has a lot more room to move around, and it's not lowered! Still helps though, the actual carrier isn't light by any means!



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 Posted: Sat Dec 9th, 2017 08:52 pm
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Oh no doubts in my mind.. When I picked up the new rear end and the "mostly" complete Dana 35 front end [all 3.73 from matching donor vehicle], I had to put it in the back of my truck by myself. Wasn't fun by my recollections..

The only thing that masked the lower back pain and my left nut touching my ankle was on my 78 mile trip home, the smile in front of knowing God let me score an awesome price on the parts, add complete 4x4 engine and I/P harnesses, both full electric door harnesses, and a complete steering box for the most part..



$200 for all of it, No gun needed :eek:


Last edited on Sat Dec 9th, 2017 08:54 pm by Undrstm8ed



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 Posted: Sat Dec 9th, 2017 10:25 pm
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Awesome score! I wish I had a junk yard near here. The ones that are in a range I'm willing to drive to just have old ass vehicles in them, nothing current enough to benefit me.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 9th, 2017 10:28 pm
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actually that was private party off of CL.. !



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 Posted: Sun Dec 10th, 2017 04:59 pm
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Even better! Did you have to pull all that stuff or did already have it out?



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 Posted: Sun Dec 10th, 2017 05:27 pm
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It was already pulled at least..guy just wanted to free up some real estate in his garage and he just kept throwing stuff in my truck.


Same thing happened to me when I picked up the extra 4.0L OHV from a guy in Temecula, Cali. That I tore down to bare block now and since have decided to go another route with the engine.



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Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

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 Posted: Sun Dec 10th, 2017 09:07 pm
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Sounds like it worked out well for you.

I've been to Temecula. Had to pack some parachutes out there for some free fall guys. I also got to do the indoor skydive thing. This was all back in '06 or '07.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 10th, 2017 09:21 pm
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Anyone got a pic of the back of a stock steel Ranger wheel? Trying not to remove one of mine in the current weather.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 10th, 2017 09:29 pm
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Undrstm8ed wrote: It was already pulled at least..guy just wanted to free up some real estate in his garage and he just kept throwing stuff in my truck.


Same thing happened to me when I picked up the extra 4.0L OHV from a guy in Temecula, Cali. That I tore down to bare block now and since have decided to go another route with the engine.


I was offered a job in Temecula like 20 years ago and didn't take it. Forgot the name of the place they did stamping dies for electrical terminals.



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MaDMaXX wrote: Anyone got a pic of the back of a stock steel Ranger wheel? Trying not to remove one of mine in the current weather.

All mine are mounted. I could go out to the garage and take a pic of an aluminum one.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 10th, 2017 09:34 pm
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I'm not sure that would help, i guess i have some alu ones, but i think the cut outs on steelies are either different or don't exist. Hmm, BRB.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 10th, 2017 09:39 pm
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Well  .

Just went and looked at my spare wheel, i have to assume that despite the steel wheel design difference, that the cut outs will be the same.

Looks like about 5mm at most of 'cut out' :(



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MaDMaXX wrote: Anyone got a pic of the back of a stock steel Ranger wheel? Trying not to remove one of mine in the current weather.
I have this pic, but it's the spare steel wheel. It's also not the back. It had a little rust so I wire brushed it and rattle canned it black to hopefully stop it from rusting any further. 

What are you trying to look at exactly?

 



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 Posted: Tue Dec 12th, 2017 06:18 pm
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So the problem i think i'm going to have (can't confirm 100% yet) is when i fit the spacer, the existing lugs will be longer than the 1 inch spacer, and will stick out past the spacer.

On alloy wheels, due to the way they're made, they typically have thicker hubs and the areas between the lug holes are hollowed out to save on material.

In an application such as above, the longer studs will just extend into the hollowed out areas and matter not.

In a steel wheel situation, as you can see from your spare, they only have a very minimal indentation between the lug holes, allowing what looks like perhaps 3 to 5mm, a very small amount.


Short version, i think that as i have steel wheels, i'm going to need to grind off the excess stud length, or find and fit new studs.



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RiggerWings wrote: MaDMaXX wrote: Anyone got a pic of the back of a stock steel Ranger wheel? Trying not to remove one of mine in the current weather.
I have this pic, but it's the spare steel wheel. It's also not the back. It had a little rust so I wire brushed it and rattle canned it black to hopefully stop it from rusting any further. 

What are you trying to look at exactly?

 



to show the reverse divots between the acorn nut seats as relief for studs that may just.... stick out above an open acorn nut which to some degree may just be snugged up to at least a 1" adapter as confirmation. Most stock and aftermarket wheels should have drilled impressions in at least one if not a two bolt patterns for those wheels that may be a more universal or multi fit patterned.  ;)



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"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Tue Dec 12th, 2017 06:57 pm
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If it were me, I'm not sure I'd grind them off. I'd probably search for some shorter studs and go from there. Plus, to return to stock you can always swap the studs back out.

If you grind them off there shouldn't be enough difference to cause a vibration (unbalanced wheel), but you never can tell.

Have you measured your studs yet? A 1" may work. Are you completely against a 1.25" spacer? I'm with you though, I think a 1" is all I'd want to do.

For the money of the better spacers and new lugs, I'd rather look for some 8" wheels. If they're the same backspacing, then they'll stick out a inch past the stock 7" wheels. Craigslist might yield some good results. Our bolt patterns (5x4.5) is common on most jeeps, Rangers, Explorers, Mustangs, some older Dodge/Chrysler products, Hondas (accord/Civic), most Hyundais, and a BUNCH of other stuff. Google it. A junk yard could help you. Could find some stock stuff or get lucky with some nice aftermarket wheels.



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 Posted: Tue Dec 12th, 2017 09:45 pm
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I just wanted to put this out there because what I am reading between the rationalization of things is that "wheel spacers may be unsafe or damage things such as studs or bearings,.. etc"

If this is your thoughts, I truly understand any and all reservations but I'd like to clear the air on some matters of actual physics and common sense approach.

Are wheel spacers safe?

Yes. When properly installed they are just as safe as wheels installed without spacers.

Will wheel spacers cause my wheel studs to bend?

No. The load from a wheel is transferred to the axle/hub through the friction of the clamped joint, not through the wheel stud. A wheel stud can only bend if the lug nuts are not properly torqued, in which case the wheel is about to fall off, anyway.

The Physics of Keeping the Wheels On
  • As long as the wheel, hub, and spacer are stiff enough to prevent flexing and loss of clamp force, the cause of most wheel stud failures is under tightened lug nuts (not enough clamping force) or over tightened lug nuts (the stud has been stretched past it's elastic limit, so the clamping force goes away). Therefore, properly installed wheel spacers are perfectly safe.
  • The wheel stud applies a clamping force that holds the wheel to the hub. When the lug nuts are tightened, the wheel studs stretch elastically, like very stiff springs. The lug nuts should be tightened until the stud is at 90% of its elastic limit. This will provide the greatest possible force to hold the wheel to the hub.
  • The amount of clamping force at a joint is important because of the coefficient of friction (Cf). The more clamping force applied to the joint (in this case the joint between the wheel and the hub), the more force required to make the wheel slip relative to the hub. Unless the wheel slips on the hub, there cannot be any bending load on the stud.
  • Coefficient of friction -- There is friction between the wheel face and hub face. This friction can be measured, and it is called the "coefficient of friction". The coefficient of friction (Cf) is the ratio of normal force, at the intersection of two surfaces, to the lateral force required to slip the bodies relative to one another. As an example, good street tires have a Cf of 0.9. This means that if there is a 100-pound vertical force applied to the tire, the tire can generate 90 lbs. of cornering force before it slides.
  • When the car starts moving, the stress applied to the stud does not change appreciably, unless one of two things happens:
    1. The vertical component of any external force applied to the wheel is so great that the clamping force is not sufficient to hold the wheel in place, and it slips on the hub. At this point the stud is loaded in bending and in shear, and may yield, or even break.
    2. Some portion of the clamped joint, wheel, or hub is not stiff enough to prevent flexing, and allows the tension load on the stud to drop to zero. With no tension load on the stud, the clamped joint is no longer tight. The wheel can then move relative to the hub, and place a bending load on the studs.
  • Inserting a wheel spacer between the hub and wheel changes nothing about these physics.
  • The hub center of a hubcentric spacer does not hold the spacer on the hub or reduce the chance of stud failure. There is never any load on the lip of the wheel spacer. For there to be a load on the lip, the friction force in the joint must have been completely overcome. The lip on a hubcentric wheel spacer serves only as an aid for wheel installation.
  • Increasing the length of the wheel studs to use a wider wheel spacer has no appreciable effect.


Now I know through draining inventories our supplier makes spacers up to what even I consider as ridiculous is 6.00" spacers. Now you would think the insanity of such a creature would be off the white coat charts. However, they serve a purpose apparently the most in the full size trucks like International, Kodiak's, and F450 and 3500 Dually's and up of all of the big three's inventory.

I think I can be quoted as saying I don't have a demographic or any use to keep these in our inventory but my point here is to quash some much needed reassuring of some safe guards especially considering most vehicles in the last decade or more are lug-centric and not hub-centric any longer.

And just to add as I hear this most often;

MYTH - "Wheels with the proper backspacing are the better solution. So, while one can safely use wheel [/url]adapters one would be wiser to get wheels with the correct backspacing for the vehicle and chosen tires."

TRUTH - a wider wheel with a lower offset does the exact same thing as a spacer, it just has more material on the back of the wheel where it bolts to the hub, same as a spacer would be.


I would also politely suggest checking out these other references as well.

[url=https://wheelonroad.net/are-wheel-spacers-safe/]Are Wheel Spacers Safe? Yes! But When And How?








As always, we'll be here to help or answer questions..



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Also, I saw it but can't find the comment again but someone mentioned skinnier tires looking "weird" being pushed out further. In honesty you'll actually provide not only a more aesthetically pleasing look to the vehicle but you are also increasing stability especially in cornering which aside from aesthetics that's what wheel spacers were for was creating stability in performance related cars.

GM for the longest time of advertisement for its "Wide Track" Grand Prix was "Wider is better". Ford took the same approach and attributes to the 89-97 Ford Thunderbird (AKA Thunder Chicken) which lent to its great handling charateristics which have been referred to that as a hammer-head shark feeling while driving as the vehicles stance in combination with both an upper strut tower brace and a stiffer lower brace between the lower control arms or K-frame like engine cradle gave it a linear and flat transition around corners without negative outward lean.

Both vehicles had immensely great handling. Not that many of us are doing near 1G skidpads in our trucks but for the efforts of cornering and looks, thought I'd throw that out there too.




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Interesting info, thanks - does make me wonder what the point of hub-centric spacers is?



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The purpose of the hub centric ring is to fill the empty space between the wheel hub and the center bore of the rim. Centric rings are usually made of durable industrial plastic, they also come as aluminum ring inserts too though.

Most often for aftermarket wheels than the stock wheels. Centric rings are needed when the hub hole (the center bore) on the rim is larger than the wheel hub of the car.

The rim manufacturers deliberately make the hub ring as large as possible for the rim, taking in to consideration the hub hole, to allow the same rims to be sold for the various different models of car using hub centric rings.



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Yeah, i actually remember a set of aftermarket wheels that i had nearly 20 years ago that had a very small plastic insert on the hub for initial location.

Curious, and i hadn't thought about this before - grinding off the lugs; as i think i'll have to do this, what are the possible problems with unbalancing the wheel/hub as a result?

If i knew what studs to get that would be the right length, i think i can swap out the fronts easily enough, but the rears (drums) i'm not sure how to do those.



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MaDMaXX wrote: Curious, and i hadn't thought about this before - grinding off the lugs; as i think i'll have to do this, what are the possible problems with unbalancing the wheel/hub as a result?

If i knew what studs to get that would be the right length, i think i can swap out the fronts easily enough, but the rears (drums) i'm not sure how to do those.



[a] Unaffected, has zero to do with any balance or change in weight before we even get into centrifugal forces due to; The wheel stud applies a clamping force that holds the wheel to the hub.
As long as the lug nuts are tightened to spec and providing the necessary clamping force, the lug-centric attributes keep the wheel in balance during rotation. The inside of the wheel or the hub-centric itself doesnt even ride on the hub itself.

To simplify the entire thought behind hub-centrics today is basically an over glorified centering pin until you get a couple lug nuts to hold the wheel to the hub.. that's it. No sense in over analyzing it any further really.

And before ordering any adapters at all, I would measure more from the fender lip area in concern than the hub so much for what you are looking to do for an accurate measurement of room based upon YOUR wheel.

If you were doing any amount of serious wheel/tire articulation or jumping bunny hills with your truck for cheap thrills then going through all the trouble and concerns of lopping off an 1/8" to 3/16th" if even a 1/4" of threads level with open acorn nuts. Your stock wheel and tire combo should easily handle an extra 11mm push to the outside without any worry of contact whatsoever...

If you were more of the wreckless sorts, I'd have a different perspective to consider. :)


This eliminates any need or concern for R&R studs or cutting down anything as well. At the very worse case scenario pull off one wheel measure the stud, less the shoulder height on the 1" Adapter say itself with an open ended acorn nut. This should give you the "clearance" measurement/ -the wheels indentation allowances, plus whatever you would want to add (or not) and then rather all of the back and forth worry, be absolute because you have a defined number to work with. i think you'll be pleased with your end results.

Last edited on Wed Dec 13th, 2017 09:50 pm by Undrstm8ed



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"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Wed Dec 13th, 2017 09:48 pm
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MaDMaXX

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Re the studs being ground, i'm not sure how they couldn't affect it if they were a different length/weight, but i would question by how much they could affect it.

By "it", i mean the balance, any vibration problems etc.



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 Posted: Wed Dec 13th, 2017 10:00 pm
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Undrstm8ed
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None, I'd bet my fav left testicle on it just saying.. lol



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"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


~ Undrstm8ed Truckumentry Write Up Pg.

~ Undrstm8ed Trailermentry Write Up Pg.
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 Posted: Wed Dec 13th, 2017 10:03 pm
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JAMMAN

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Undrstm8ed wrote: None, I'd bet my fav left testicle on it just saying.. lol

You have multiple left ones?



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Ford-Rangers.com Ranger Forum > Tech Section > Wheels and Tires > Wheel spacers?

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