Wheel spacers? - Wheels and Tires - Tech Section

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JAMMAN

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Yeah what did you post, I went in to the database and that isn't any youtube format I've seen. LOL

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Posted: Fri Nov 24th, 2017 03:03 pm

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Undrstm8ed
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Weird.. I've tried a couple times to repost the vid.. but the link works I put so try that.

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Posted: Fri Nov 24th, 2017 03:05 pm

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Hails from the land of rust!

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Test

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Posted: Fri Nov 24th, 2017 03:44 pm

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JAMMAN

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test

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Posted: Fri Nov 24th, 2017 03:45 pm

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JAMMAN

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LOL well James it works for us.

Click on the "Share" arrow at the vid, paste that into the youtube prompt here.

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Posted: Fri Nov 24th, 2017 04:05 pm

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And well that looks really easy.

I wonder if i can get the right studs for mine locally?

Having said that, i have drums on the rear, there's no way it's easy to do those! :(

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Posted: Fri Nov 24th, 2017 08:08 pm

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Undrstm8ed
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MaDMaXX wrote: And well that looks really easy.

I wonder if i can get the right studs for mine locally?

Having said that, i have drums on the rear, there's no way it's easy to do those! :(

ha shy of having to remove the drum, its even easier.. ;)

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Posted: Fri Nov 24th, 2017 08:49 pm

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I was very young when i last watched my Dad do drum brakes, as a technology, they didn't appear on anything in the UK after the late 80's/early 90's.

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Posted: Wed Dec 6th, 2017 06:25 pm

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RiggerWings
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Alright...newb question.

I've never used spacers before but I threw some slightly larger tires on my stock wheels and I'd like to space them out a bit.

Lets say I want 1" spacers but my lugs are 1.25" long (I'm not sure though, I haven't measured them), would I need to replace the lugs with shorter ones?

I guess it would be easier (and easier to return to stock) if I got spacers that would fit with stock lugs. I just don't want to space out my wheels too much and look crappy.

Does anyone know off hand the thinnest spacer to fit stock length lugs without replacing them?

Last edited on Wed Dec 6th, 2017 06:26 pm by RiggerWings

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Posted: Wed Dec 6th, 2017 06:34 pm

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I hear you, and share the same concerns.

So far as i've been able to discern, there are two ways of dealing with the stud length.

1) Your wheels (especially alloys) can/will have cut outs in the stud areas, they can be deep enough to accommodate the studs. You have to check them.

2) Get shorter studs, not sure how easy that is, but changing them doesn't seem *too* hard.

3) Grind off your existing studs, i believe flush with where your wheel and nut combo sits when it's all attached.

I *think* the stock studs are 1.25 as you say, and i personally wouldn't want spacers any more than 1 inch, maybe even just 25mm spacers - with the stock wheels at least.

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Posted: Wed Dec 6th, 2017 07:09 pm

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RiggerWings
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MaDMaXX wrote: 1) Your wheels (especially alloys) can/will have cut outs in the stud areas, they can be deep enough to accommodate the studs. You have to check them.
I *think* the stock studs are 1.25 as you say, and i personally wouldn't want spacers any more than 1 inch, maybe even just 25mm spacers - with the stock wheels at least.
Ohh, you're right. I know I've seen some with holes in the back. I cant say I've paid too much attention to my current wheels though, I'll have to take a look.

I don't want to replace the studs with shorter, that just makes it more difficult to return to stock if ever I desire.

I wasn't planning more than an inch either. I figured If I got a 16x8 wheel with the same backspacing it would stick out an inch further than the stock 7 inchers do. So 1" would be the look I want. I can't find anything quality under 1.25" though. I like these
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tgi-140019-2-kit/overview/year/2011/make/ford/model/ranger

Furthermore, some of these spacers can get expensive. I can just buy new wheels for not much more. I can't go to a 15" due to the brakes on the '11 model. And 16" wheels are harder to come by and cost more. So far, the best option is spacers...but I don't want to cheap out and have issues either.

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Posted: Wed Dec 6th, 2017 07:22 pm

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There doesn't seem to be much reason to get big name brand stuff, they're all aluminium and attaching (taking care and time to center etc) seem to be important along with a 50-100 mile check on torque.

Underestimated was going to find out how much his guy could do a set for, but i've not seen anything yet.

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Posted: Wed Dec 6th, 2017 08:44 pm

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RiggerWings
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Yeah I saw that. I'll keep an eye out as well.

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Posted: Thu Dec 7th, 2017 03:00 am

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MaDMaXX wrote: There doesn't seem to be much reason to get big name brand stuff, they're all aluminium and attaching (taking care and time to center etc) seem to be important along with a 50-100 mile check on torque.

Underestimated was going to find out how much his guy could do a set for, but i've not seen anything yet.
I'd like to claim my first symptoms of CRS.. :brute

I lost track but will follow up tomorrow as soon as humanly possible.

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Posted: Thu Dec 7th, 2017 11:44 am

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RiggerWings
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Haha, thanks! We know things happen!

I think I'll likely go with 1.25", just to keep from changing/cutting the studs. But, I do need to look at my wheels to see if they have the holes in the back. They're stockers, so I doubt it, but maybe I'll get lucky. Not sure when I'll have time to remove a wheel though.

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Posted: Thu Dec 7th, 2017 11:50 am

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Take a pic when you pull them, i have steelies but in 15 inch, i would guess i don't have any significant cut outs in mine.

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Posted: Thu Dec 7th, 2017 11:52 am

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Will do. Mine are the alloys but I doubt I have em either. One can hope though!

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Posted: Thu Dec 7th, 2017 12:00 pm

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I'd say 50/50 chance, alloys usually do have it due to cuts being easier and make things cheaper, also, offset means they have the space.

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Posted: Fri Dec 8th, 2017 12:22 am

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@MadMaxx & @RiggerWings, check PM's Sir's...

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Posted: Fri Dec 8th, 2017 12:32 am

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Awesome, thanks 12*

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Posted: Fri Dec 8th, 2017 12:52 am

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Thank you muchly.

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Posted: Fri Dec 8th, 2017 04:01 pm

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Now to verify if my wheels can handle the studs. I'd probably like a 3/4" spacer best of all. I have skinny tires, 265/75R16s (31.6x10.50) so sticking them out more may look a little weird.

I'll start looking for wheels too. A 16x8 will stick out an inch more than my stock 16x7s as long as I keep the same backspacing, which is think is 4.5".

Both of the 2002 FX4s I;ve owned over the years could handle 33x12.50s on a 15x8 with 3 5/8" backspacing. T-bar crank would prevent any rubbing, and they had the 4.10s so 33s weren't a prob.

I can definitely tell the difference with these 265s on my '11 with the 3.73s though. I'm glad I didn't go any bigger!

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Posted: Sat Dec 9th, 2017 01:34 am

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I'm rolling 33's on 17x8's with 3.73's which are far better in MPG & performance aspects than my 3.08 gearing was in the beginning. The 14" stocker wheels in comparison with the 17" actually helped in my lift so i'm not complaining there.

The new Hancook tires will put me in 34" territory and I am either going to have to learn how to shim and jive gearing to do 4.56's or find someone that can do the work without costing me a arm and a testicle..

Last edited on Sat Dec 9th, 2017 01:36 am by Undrstm8ed

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Posted: Sat Dec 9th, 2017 09:48 am

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Oh wow, 33's on 3.73s? I went from stock 30s to my new 31.5's and she's a bit sluggish. Which is another reason I got the tuner.
My FX4 has the 4.10s and I was able to wheel with 33s with no power issues. 4.56s would be awesome, you'll have power for days to turn those tires.

There's plenty of vids on youtube on how to install and shim a diff. You can likely "rent" the magnetic micrometer (for the lash adjustment) at your local auto parts store. If you're buying gears though, make sure to get the master install kit with all the shims.

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Posted: Sat Dec 9th, 2017 05:11 pm

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Yea.. I've watched one or two back awhile ago, I should watch a few more still as its the one thing I've not done on my own yet..

The new tires I'm moving up to are larger and because of the way DynaPros MT's are with there ridiculous thick lugs being closer to a 34" tire [@ 33.8"] rather than a normal 33" competitors tire.

Last edited on Sat Dec 9th, 2017 05:12 pm by Undrstm8ed

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