mhoward
Hey look ~ they ~ bounce!
Joined: Sun Oct 22nd, 2017
Posts: 2736
Name: Michael ... Occupation: Technology Manager ... Interests: Trucks / Guitars & Music / Things that go BANG ...
Reputation Points: 2736
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Eddie, I've written several how-tos, but honestly I wouldn't know where to start. I didn't bother taking pictures along the way, so I have nothing other than words for a how-to. What I *CAN* say is this: buy the parts from a wrecking yard, as the ones on eBay are ridiculously priced. Get the console, shifter, cable and rear mounting bracket and make sure all the cubby stuff is there, such as the mats. As for the LEDs, if you get the right console, you get the LEDs already installed. It is called the "Ambient Lighting Package". All you have to do is supply key-on power to make them work, and there are seven (I think) colors you can cycle through with the switch. The shifter base has to be cut down, as does the console bottom. You will have to fabricate a new bracket that allows you to mount the shifter to the correct spot on the trucks floor tunnel. You're gonna laugh, but I made mine out of 4 pieces of hardwood, because I live in suburbia and I don't own a welder. There is a LOT of cut and fit and measure and trim and mashed thumbs and cussing and bleeding fingers and swearing that you will NEVER attempt anything like this again (but I know I WILL). If you want the exact same thing that I have, here is some useful info:
2008 (ONLY) Ford Escape / 2008-2011 Mercury Mariner parts
Shifter MUST be the P_RND21 pattern (there is also a P_RNDL version)
The chrome handle version is hard to find in the Escape, but the Mariners all had the chrome version
Ranger top column shroud for a MANUAL transmission (no hole for the column gear selector)
Ranger instrument cluster shift position filler plate from a manual shift truck
12-position M-F plug to make the wiring for the electrics easy to disconnect in the event the console has to come out for some reason in the future
You will have to bring wiring down from the column to the floor for the Park Interlock and OD Button
The Starter Interlock and Reverse lamps are handled by the Digital Transmission Range sensor
You will have to grab Panel Lights, Key-On Hot and Hot-at-All-Times circuits from the radio area (radio will be out for this anyway)
You will use the Mariner/Escape shift cable, going through the floor tunnel access cover
You will have to bend/modify the shift cable bracket on the trans because the Ranger and Mariner mount a bit different
Trimming of the console is basically sitting the console in place, mask the area (for a guide) at the cut point and using a jig/sabre saw to cut the excess off (this is mostly guess work and taking multiple cuts)
TIP: after the cuts are done, lightly file the edges to remove fuzz and burrs, then use a butane lighter to darken the cut to match the console (assuming you are using a CHARCOAL colored console)
The console and shifter bolt together, one screw on each side, so this helps greatly in maintaining the correct height, fore/aft and side-to-side positioning so everything looks right when done
There is a bunch more things; small and insignificant but you will discover them and deal with them as they appear
Admittedly, I have not yet come up with a good solution to the mating of dash and console top (there's a close-up picture in my gallery that shows what I'm still needing to deal with)
So... still want to do it?
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-- Michael
2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl
So many mods... so little time...
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