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2000 v8 swap       #: 2187
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 Posted: Sun Aug 2nd, 2020 10:01 am
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Junglejoe
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Thank ya sir.. its all finally coming together!
410customs wrote:
the two piece design is for installing the headers with the engine in the explorer........ I am not sure if I have ever used it. Meaning I always have the header completely together before installing to the engine
Keep up the good work!



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 Posted: Thu Aug 6th, 2020 06:52 am
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Thanks for the link. I read another thread on putting them in a ranger..ALL weekend affair, according  to thread.
 I took off work Thursday and Friday, then the weekend... I know I know.. thats a no no..lol 
BUT... I needed a break. Been going damn near 7 days a week at this 4 story Hotel.. Real reason is I caught up to the painters. Planned that..lmao
 But yeah..I have to get the ball rolling on the truck..its been way to long.



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 Posted: Thu Aug 6th, 2020 01:45 pm
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Painted the last part of the tins... I just live this krickle paint.. looks good!!! Hope it holds up..

Attachment: 20200806_123853.jpg (Downloaded 68 times)

Last edited on Thu Aug 6th, 2020 02:00 pm by Junglejoe



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 Posted: Fri Aug 7th, 2020 07:55 am
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Little inside 411...
Called Summit and Jegs... the head gaskets I need are on backorder..
So out of curiosity..I got on Autozones page. Odered them.last night and it says we be here today!
We'll see. . .

 Why I'm here..  so even though this is a street/daily/travel  truck.  .
I "think" Ill have the heads milled to 58cc, they are 62's now. I know that's not much, but should be good for 5-8 hp I'd think?
My head gakets are about .030 squished, so with 58.cc heads, that should put put me about 9.5(ish) :1 compression which is ideal for a good street engine



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 Posted: Sat Aug 8th, 2020 06:38 pm
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Checking things out... 



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 Posted: Sat Aug 8th, 2020 06:40 pm
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 Posted: Sat Aug 8th, 2020 10:16 pm
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JAMMAN

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I'm liking the crinkle black paint.

58CC is on the edge of not being able to run the cheaper pump gas but with the right tune it shouldn't cause problems. Going to read the entire thread again to see which cam you ended up with.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 9th, 2020 08:35 am
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I may or may not have it done. Definitely not building it for the track. I guess it depends on if I want an extra 5-7 hp..which will never be felt in the seat dyno.



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 Posted: Fri Aug 14th, 2020 08:52 am
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Ok...Ive got some down time and have a couplete question  for those who've been there already.. 
 Seen some that said you dont have to switch out the high pressure power steering hose, ranger works fine.. Can anyone Verify this?
Where can you get new 3.0 motor mounts?
My ranger is a flex fuel, does that matter as far fuel pressure issues

(Injectors)
One guy told me the 24 lb injectors would act like 30lb injectors because of the non udjustable fuel pressure, which is 57-72 psi. The  foxbody is about 39psi.. I am upgrading the stock pump to  Walboro 255 or so.



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 Posted: Fri Aug 14th, 2020 09:56 am
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The 3.0 power steering hose might work? I never tried. I've done enough 5.0 conversions where I know the PS line will need to route over the AC compressor and to the metal PS pump...I just use the 5.0 line, easiest to change it out while there is no engine in the bay
the SOHC 4.0 uses a similar pump and line, but it is too short to make the proper routing
I never tried a 3.0 PS hose, a new one for the 5.0 from Rock Auto is $23
In 2005 Ford changed the PS rack, it no longer uses a threaded line to fit into the rack, instead it has O rings and a hold down bolt. For the 07 Ranger I am converting to a 5.0 I found I can run a 2005 Explorer 4.6L PS line, bolts right in. Just some fun fact for you to chew on


flex fuel does not matter. The last two rangers I converted to 5.0 were flex fuel.
The flex fuel system is basically an additional sensor on the fuel line that detects the corn fuel and adjusts fuel delivery based on this. To burn E85 injectors must deliver 4x as much fuel!!!

There is also a resistor device on top of the fuel gauge sender at the tank. Otherwise, same as any other ranger. Obviously with the 5.0 you cannot run flex fuel it does not have the ability to run it like the 3.0 does.
No need to mess with the fuel level sender or fuel line sensor..

Stock 5.0 injectors are 19#, without a tune you cannot run anything else
The 5.0 from 96-01 only had 19# injectors
96-98 injectors (yellow, 4 hole bosch) work with return style fuel, 36 psi at the rail, still deliver 19# of fuel per hour or whatever
98-01 injectors (white body, 4 hole bosch) work with returnless style fuel rail 64 psi, still deliver 19# of fuel per hour............

If you run 24# injectors you will need a tune. Fooling the PCM with a different "matched mas" has never worked well for me, that was with the old EECIV computers.........anything over 19# and you will need a tuner

The 19# injectors should be good up to like 350 hp+

MY Bronco II uses a Walbro 255 lph pump...I have a 97 style fuel system with a return line, stock 19# injectors......works awesome!
I would like to convert to returnless style pump and fuel rail eventually, eliminate the return line to the tank = cooler fuel = better power and mpg



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 Posted: Sat Aug 15th, 2020 10:28 am
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410customs wrote:
The 3.0 power steering hose might work? I never tried. I've done enough 5.0 conversions where I know the PS line will need to route over the AC compressor and to the metal PS pump...I just use the 5.0 line, easiest to change it out while there is no engine in the bay
the SOHC 4.0 uses a similar pump and line, but it is too short to make the proper routing
I never tried a 3.0 PS hose, a new one for the 5.0 from Rock Auto is $23
In 2005 Ford changed the PS rack, it no longer uses a threaded line to fit into the rack, instead it has O rings and a hold down bolt. For the 07 Ranger I am converting to a 5.0 I found I can run a 2005 Explorer 4.6L PS line, bolts right in. Just some fun fact for you to chew on


flex fuel does not matter. The last two rangers I converted to 5.0 were flex fuel.
The flex fuel system is basically an additional sensor on the fuel line that detects the corn fuel and adjusts fuel delivery based on this. To burn E85 injectors must deliver 4x as much fuel!!!

There is also a resistor device on top of the fuel gauge sender at the tank. Otherwise, same as any other ranger. Obviously with the 5.0 you cannot run flex fuel it does not have the ability to run it like the 3.0 does.
No need to mess with the fuel level sender or fuel line sensor..

Stock 5.0 injectors are 19#, without a tune you cannot run anything else
The 5.0 from 96-01 only had 19# injectors
96-98 injectors (yellow, 4 hole bosch) work with return style fuel, 36 psi at the rail, still deliver 19# of fuel per hour or whatever
98-01 injectors (white body, 4 hole bosch) work with returnless style fuel rail 64 psi, still deliver 19# of fuel per hour............

If you run 24# injectors you will need a tune. Fooling the PCM with a different "matched mas" has never worked well for me, that was with the old EECIV computers.........anything over 19# and you will need a tuner

The 19# injectors should be good up to like 350 hp+

MY Bronco II uses a Walbro 255 lph pump...I have a 97 style fuel system with a return line, stock 19# injectors......works awesome!
I would like to convert to returnless style pump and fuel rail eventually, eliminate the return line to the tank = cooler fuel = better power and mpg

Thank ya sir for the info. I know it has to be tuned.. I have a start up tune already in a computer I bought. Even though I'm 10000 percent I have the PATS right (key,ignition switch and the transponder ring, pays behind the glove box ) all.switched over to the ranger, I had it deleted. I may have my trucked tuned with my original computer to keep the PATS.  Not sure on that yet.
 Well on the injecrors, after doing some more reading and talking to thw dyno guy, he says the 24's  "atomize fuel " better then the 30's. Which make more power. Im right at the border line of needing 30's. But if I dont..then its waisted money. I can get the 24's from a navigator for cheap...(junkyard)
  So I did drop the heads off at the machine shop to be "cleaned" up..  they said one day, no problem. Well they are closed on Fridays and the weekend  so no heads!! Uggggggh!!!

 I'll get them Monday or Tueaday I suppose. Got to get the pushrods measured and hope they are not on backorder!



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 Posted: Sat Aug 15th, 2020 10:39 am
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So I was mocking things up just checming things, I was like WAIT! My elbow for the intake to tb is missing!  I sent it off with the intakes ro be ported. Called the porter and he said he didn't have it..Im like well you have to bave it, I didn't take it off. So long story short one.of two things happened..he set to the side and didn't send it back or one of his workers did. But he ported one out for me and sent it for free!



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 Posted: Sat Aug 15th, 2020 10:41 am
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Before and after flow numbers



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 Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2020 11:14 am
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holy crap that will flow some air!



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 Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2020 08:51 pm
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I'm sure shooting for very close to 350 to the tire. Not that its a race truck..juat a random number I came up with..lol
 I've had  several foxbodys.. one was  380 to the tire and felt like 800 for a street car. I just drove it normal for the most part. Cleaned the tires off some, but other than..just drove it normal



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 Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2020 10:47 pm
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Hmmm...thats what I want close to. Once you get it done and tuned will you ever get it dynoed to see what you make?



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 Posted: Mon Aug 17th, 2020 12:06 am
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The dyno slip is an affirmation that proves we have learned from our journey.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 17th, 2020 01:46 pm
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VelociRanger wrote:
Hmmm...thats what I want close to. Once you get it done and tuned will you ever get it dynoed to see what you make?
Absolutely.. I have to have it tuned..nothing is stock but the short block.. cam, heads, injectors, maf, and intakes..have all been worked over.Everything has been highly ported.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 17th, 2020 01:47 pm
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The boss said she wanted to paint it... pink!
 I compromised.. pink heat shrink..lol



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 Posted: Mon Aug 17th, 2020 01:49 pm
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Junglejoe wrote:
VelociRanger wrote:

Hmmm...thats what I want close to. Once you get it done and tuned will you ever get it dynoed to see what you make?
Absolutely.. I have to have it tuned..nothing is stock but the short block.. cam, heads, injectors, maf, and intakes..have all been worked over.Everything has been highly ported.

Once you get it done I'm gonna have to go back and read the whole thread. I don't know nothin about building engines or specs/flow rate/cfm or anything....there's gotta be a lot of knowledge I've missed



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Thu Aug 20th, 2020 08:08 am
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VelociRanger wrote:
Junglejoe wrote:

VelociRanger wrote:


Hmmm...thats what I want close to. Once you get it done and tuned will you ever get it dynoed to see what you make?
Absolutely.. I have to have it tuned..nothing is stock but the short block.. cam, heads, injectors, maf, and intakes..have all been worked over.Everything has been highly ported.

Once you get it done I'm gonna have to go back and read the whole thread. I don't know nothin about building engines or specs/flow rate/cfm or anything....there's gotta be a lot of knowledge I've missed

Its boring reading  stuff on paper about flow numbers and math problems. Best way to put it.. try running  breathing only through a straw.. doesnt work  very well.  Chunk the straw, feel all the air you can inhale and exhale? Another example  an older fella showed me.. Take that same straw, tape it to a vacume and see how hot it gets , even on the blowing part of a shop vac.. air gets hot when it's forced  through something. Hot air is horsepower killer!   Opening things up more(porting) allows the engine to inhale and exhale better.



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 Posted: Thu Aug 20th, 2020 07:44 pm
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Just picked my heads up fromt the machine shop.. factory castings, which was suppose  to be 61cc combustion chambers..were 60 and 62!
 They are now dead at 58cc , and with a .037 head gasket.. should be around 9.4:1 I'm hoping
Also..Im a stick shift guy, I just love it banging gears or grandpa shifting it. Doesn't matter..I prefer a stick shift. Seen this sticker on a car and asked where he got it, so I order me one. If you're interested, look up the name on the sticker..$1.25 for two




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 Posted: Sat Aug 22nd, 2020 09:51 pm
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Had to edit the post 3 times because after I re-read the thread I found all the answers to the questions...except one. Are you planning on using like a rattle can clear coat on your cool mini moonshine clutch reservoir? That way the stickers stay preserved and clean looking over time and won't dirty up and start to peel off.

Last edited on Sat Aug 22nd, 2020 10:04 pm by VelociRanger



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1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sun Aug 23rd, 2020 09:25 am
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VelociRanger wrote:
Had to edit the post 3 times because after I re-read the thread I found all the answers to the questions...except one. Are you planning on using like a rattle can clear coat on your cool mini moonshine clutch reservoir? That way the stickers stay preserved and clean looking over time and won't dirty up and start to peel off.
Yes. That very thing. Brake fluid is just so hard on paint and anything else. I just have to be very careful and try not to spill any fluid on it.



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I used epoxy to coat the painted diff covers on the Excursion, they have been holding up very well. My wife makes jewelry so we always have clear epoxy around, stuff is awesome, nothing can touch it




Maybe you could dip the jar in epoxy, that would protect the finish!



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