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Probs, complaints and bitching in genera #: 504

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Posted: Sat Jan 20th, 2018 10:32 pm

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ShovelheadKevin
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OK...this is for all probs, complaints, etc for 4.0 4x4's and any solutions, etc..
My current on my 1998 XLT auto w/140,000 on the clock are :
I need to re-key/cylinder my door locks because I can only access via pssgr side lock {.....and prolly will need my ignit key before too long too}.
Have to replace heater {4 hose} valve.
Leaf spring bushings are shot.
Hood & cab top paint SUCK!!!!!
Prolly more that I'll discover but this is the thread-starter. ;)

Last edited on Sat Jan 20th, 2018 10:35 pm by ShovelheadKevin

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Posted: Sat Jan 20th, 2018 10:51 pm

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JAMMAN

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Get a can of WD40 with the plastic straw and spray inside the locks. My sons 02 was impossible on one side and difficult on the other. Worked great after one squirt.

Mine runs great but has a squeak that I have been chasing since I bought it. Replaced idler and tension pulley bearings. Quit for 2 days and the squeak came back. Replaced belt but kept the old one since it still looked new. Squeak went away for about a week came back. Replaced the water pump, sandblasted pulley. Squeak went away for about 2 weeks and came back.
I'm thinking a loose spring on the aftermarket tensioner they installed. Every time I mess with that it stops squeaking then comes back. I have solved much more difficult issues but this stupid squeaking is killing me.

My front end has about had it too needs ball joints and tie rod ends.

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Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 01:23 am

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Dusten
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My valve covers leak. My stereo is old. The drivers back door is dented. One bedside has a stripe because I think the po replaced it. My wheels are ugly.

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Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 11:18 am

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Mine squeaks too. Has since new. I also have a stack of almost new serpentine belts hanging in the garage. I did my
water pump last summer and rebuilt the front end the summer before that.

I'm going out right now to try the WD40 in the door locks. Hope it works for me.

/DannoBob

2001 3.0 2WD Step side 104000mi.

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Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 11:43 am

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DannoBob
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It Worked!! Thanx Jamman.

/DannoBob

Last edited on Sun Jan 21st, 2018 11:43 am by DannoBob

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Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 02:10 pm

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ShovelheadKevin
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Tried.....no-go.
Glad I ordered new ones. ;)
Looking at youtube, this has got to be the easiest r&r job on the truck!

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Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 03:12 pm

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Dusten
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Oh ya, my pinion seal leaks. I'm fixing that before my cross country road trip

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Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 10:01 pm

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MaDMaXX

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Seat covers ripped, can't find replacements.

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Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 10:14 pm

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JAMMAN

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ShovelheadKevin wrote: Tried.....no-go.
Glad I ordered new ones. ;)
Looking at youtube, this has got to be the easiest r&r job on the truck!
Just the locks or the electric lock motor? Took me 2 1/2 hours to do the first electric lock motor and about 20 minutes for the second what a learning curve. That's with the advent of youtube. "Just pry with a small screwdriver" yeah right.

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Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 11:43 pm

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Its easier to disassemble the door. I just did it in my 99 yesterday

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Posted: Mon Jan 22nd, 2018 09:10 am

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ShovelheadKevin
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JAMMAN wrote: ShovelheadKevin wrote: Tried.....no-go.
Glad I ordered new ones. ;)
Looking at youtube, this has got to be the easiest r&r job on the truck!
Just the locks or the electric lock motor? Took me 2 1/2 hours to do the first electric lock motor and about 20 minutes for the second what a learning curve. That's with the advent of youtube. "Just pry with a small screwdriver" yeah right.

My doors are 100% manual {locks, mirrors & windows...} and although I miss my power windows, in this case I guess I'll just count my blessings for the simplicity that manual doors afford for r&r work.

Here's my locks, I'll post pics when I do them on my truck:

Last edited on Mon Jan 22nd, 2018 09:11 am by ShovelheadKevin

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Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 02:21 pm

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The paint on my truck has a lot of scratches & the body has some dings from the parking lot morons.
I have an oil leak that seemed to start after replacing the Cylinder heads & it is dripping off the bell housing of the trans. I can not tell if it is from the rear main or coming from the back of the intake.

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Posted: Sun Feb 4th, 2018 04:39 am

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TheArcticWolf1911
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My 3.0 has had a squealing belt since the time I purchased it. Bought a new valucraft(?) belt, duralast idler pulley and bearing and duralast tensioner. Stayed quiet for a while, but came back.

Tensioner had gone crooked, was basically coming apart. Chucked it in the bin and bought a motorcraft tensioner assembly. That's still OK. Bought a new belt, a poly rib 'quiet belt'. Damn thing still squeals like a pig being branded and I can't figure out why for the life of me. Lately I've been ignoring it because I'm tired of chasing my tail.

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Posted: Sun Feb 4th, 2018 06:34 am

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TheArcticWolf1911 wrote: My 3.0 has had a squealing belt since the time I purchased it. Bought a new valucraft(?) belt, duralast idler pulley and bearing and duralast tensioner. Stayed quiet for a while, but came back.

Tensioner had gone crooked, was basically coming apart. Chucked it in the bin and bought a motorcraft tensioner assembly. That's still OK. Bought a new belt, a poly rib 'quiet belt'. Damn thing still squeals like a pig being branded and I can't figure out why for the life of me. Lately I've been ignoring it because I'm tired of chasing my tail.
Food for thought.

Look around the belt for signs of oil, grease, coolant or some other contamination. Chemicals from these fluids not only cause the belt's material to deteriorate but also interfere with the way it operates. If your belt is contaminated with fluid, find the source of the problem and fix it before replacing the belt.
Remove the belt and manually rotate the different pulleys by hand. They all should turn smoothly and quietly. The idler pulley should spin freely as well.
Using a straightedge, check that the pulleys align with each other. A pulley that varies over a 1/4-inch (1/8-inch on engines with pulleys close together) means it's not mounted correctly, has become loose, or has a bent bracket.

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Posted: Sun Feb 4th, 2018 01:55 pm

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Scrambler82
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I got a squeak that happens when I am stopping.
I thought it was suspension but had that reworked and the noise is still there.
Drives me crazy at times, I try to locate it, had the wife bouncing on the rear bumper and nothing, I drive it and yup it id there.
Not a continuous squeak, not a squeak when you go over bumps, just when stopping and it is not the squeaker in the pads.

Didn't have it until a lost my Rear Spring Shackle, it did the rust out thing, had both rear hangers replaced, new bolts and rubber bushing, and the squeak started.
I'm thinking maybe the rubber needs some lube but not sure what to use ?!?

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Posted: Sun Feb 4th, 2018 02:47 pm

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JAMMAN

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I was trying to determine where my front end squeak is and I'm all but convinced it is the right front shock.

When you apply the brakes (going forward) your rear end does twist,if you are looking at the passenger side door it will twist clockwise (ever so slightly but I have seen it helping the guys in the shop pull over the lift pads) so there is a lot that could be squeaking.

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Posted: Sun Feb 4th, 2018 04:09 pm

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I am just shy of 130K miles.

I hit a covey of quail a few years back and one went through my front grill. I was able to piece it all back together with some carbon fiber and resin on the backside. My clearcoat is pealing on the bed. My CD player will not eject the CD that is in it. The drivers seat is starting to deform. The front suspension creaks and pops when it is below 50 degrees. In cold weather reverse is weak when the truck is first cranked - it is fine once it is warmed up but I think I will be rebuilding the transmission sometime in the future. I have a 9 year old battery that is somehow still working.

I had the squeak in the serpentine belt. I replaced the belt, pulley and tensioner and still had the squeak. I replaced the bearing in the alternator and it was now gone.

Last edited on Sun Feb 4th, 2018 04:10 pm by Tsquare

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Posted: Sun Feb 4th, 2018 06:54 pm

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MaDMaXX

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You can separately/easily replace the alternator bearing?

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Posted: Sun Feb 4th, 2018 08:39 pm

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JAMMAN

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Tsquare wrote: I hit a covey of quail a few years back and one went through my front grill. I was able to piece it all back together with some carbon fiber and resin on the backside.
Dang the first thing that ran through my mind was "How did he put a quail back together with carbon fiber". Need a nap.

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Posted: Sun Feb 4th, 2018 08:56 pm

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MaDMaXX wrote: You can separately/easily replace the alternator bearing?It can be replaced. It is not a fun job but it is cheaper than replacing the entire unit.

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Posted: Mon Feb 5th, 2018 10:09 am

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it requires removal of the alternator, and then disassembly of it. there are some pretty good youtube videos showing how

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Posted: Sat Feb 10th, 2018 11:50 pm

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I took off the belt today and hit the pulleys with a wire brush and some parts cleaner. The pulleys do not appear to be grossly misaligned. I had a handy level that just so happened to be the same width as my belt, and it dropped right into place.

I couldn't hear the source with the engine running (using a stethoscope) and all the bearings in the pulleys felt okay. The belt isn't shiny anywhere nor is it rubbing anywhere with any real significance outside of normal wear. Also cleaned the belt, but just with a quick drag of the brush, no parts cleaner.

Did all that, buttoned 'er back up and it still squeals like an army of mice. Maybe this spring I'll buy a gatorback belt off amazon or something and give my current belt (which is still like new) to my father.

If that doesn't do it, well I guess I'll just have to ignore it until whatever is causing the issue becomes bad enough to actually be noticeable.

Argh.

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Posted: Sun Feb 11th, 2018 12:23 am

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MaDMaXX

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What is your current belt? some belts, even new, just squeak.

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Posted: Sun Feb 11th, 2018 06:28 am

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Drive belt squeal is common and usually caused by the belt slipping on the drive pulleys - check the tensioner is actually tensioning the belt correctly - often the test is to twist the belt on its longest run , it should not twist more than 90 degrees.

You can also buy belt dressing or belt conditioner which is a weak adhesive that improves the grip of the belt.

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Posted: Mon Feb 12th, 2018 03:18 am

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The fuel gauge on my new cluster moves different than my old one. I don't like it

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