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4.0 SOHC Struggling #: 1891

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Posted: Fri Jan 24th, 2020 08:57 am

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Stringer
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The 2002 4.0 SOHC I just purchased is feeling pretty sluggish and bogged down. I thought that it may have been when I first looked at it but chalked it up to it being just me coming from my F-150 to this. After driving a friends 4.0, it is not running to its potential and how I thought I remembered my first 2002 4.0 ran. The only thing on the truck that could be affecting its performance are the 265/75/16 tires but, that is the same size I ran on my old Ranger and it still had plenty of power. I will add that this truck also has a 4.10 LS rear end. It is slow off the line and I have a pretty hard time getting the truck up to highway speed. Accelerating from 60 up to 65 or 70 to pass traffic is a chore. I have to completely bury my foot in the pedal for the truck to go anywhere.

After some research, I have come up with a couple possible solutions:

Clean MAF Sensor
Replace Fuel Filter
Replace Air Filter
Throttle Cable Mod (Leaning towards this due to my terrible throttle response and need to floor the truck to accelerate)

Has anyone else experienced this here? Has anyone found the issue to be something else other than what is listed above?

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Posted: Fri Jan 24th, 2020 09:20 am

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Allright! Something to diagnose and fix! I love fixing these trucks, and you can't fix them if they are running perfectly, so lets get down to it:

How many miles on the 02?
Does the engine tick when started cold?
Does the engine run smoothly or does it stumble/buck/hesitate?
Does the transmission feel like it is slipping?
Any check engine light?

You can smash the fuel pedal to the floor and remove the intake tube, look at your throttle body butterfly and see if it is fully opened. If it is not fully opened then you need the throttle cable mod. If it is fully opened then the mod will do nothing for you except open the throttle body sooner.
I would check fuel pressure, on the 02 I think there is still a schrader valve on the fuel rail?

A 2002 SOHC Ranger with 4.10 axles (4x4 the front and rear both have 4.10 gears) should haul the mail, it should not struggle at all......

Last edited on Fri Jan 24th, 2020 09:21 am by 410customs

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Posted: Fri Jan 24th, 2020 09:26 am

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"Allright! Something to diagnose and fix! I love fixing these trucks, and you can't fix them if they are running perfectly, so lets get down to it:

How many miles on the 02?"
Just turned over 141k
"Does the engine tick when started cold?"
Nope, not at all
"Does the engine run smoothly or does it stumble/buck/hesitate?"
It seems pretty smooth
"Does the transmission feel like it is slipping?"
The tranny feels extremely strong
"Any check engine light?"
Nope

"You can smash the fuel pedal to the floor and remove the intake tube, look at your throttle body butterfly and see if it is fully opened. If it is not fully opened then you need the throttle cable mod. If it is fully opened then the mod will do nothing for you except open the throttle body sooner.
I would check fuel pressure, on the 02 I think there is still a schrader valve on the fuel rail?

A 2002 SOHC Ranger with 4.10 axles (4x4 the front and rear both have 4.10 gears) should haul the mail, it should not struggle at all......"
^Exactly this. Like I said I thought I was just spoiled coming from my F-150 with the twin turbos but after driving it for a week as well as another 4.0, something just isn't quiet right.

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Posted: Fri Jan 24th, 2020 09:32 am

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check fuel psi these trucks run at 64-68 fuel rail pressure
If it is less (like 45-55 psi) then it will still run fine MOST of the time, until the demand for fuel is high, then it will start to feel like its down on power
What are your tires psi at? all 4 even?
Does the truck roll easily? like in N on flat ground can you push it? On a slight hill with no brakes will it start rolling?
You are looking for any "drag" in the brakes or drivetrain that the engine and trans maybe trying to overcome
Does it ever smell of sulfur when its hot? looking for plugged exhaust/cat converter
Is the air filter in good shape? I have seen some major major dirt and gunk plug up the airfilter to the point of barely breathing, wanna talk about an easy fix

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Posted: Fri Jan 24th, 2020 09:43 am

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I haven't had a chance to check the air filter yet but that is something I want to replace regardless.
The truck rolls freely.
I haven't had a sulfur smell either.

The previous owner said the truck has been parked for about a year due to a crack in the rear frame section. Prior to the sale, the following was done:

Oil Change
Tranny Fluid Change
Diff Fluid
New Tires
Rear Brakes

I am planning on changing out the air filter & fuel filter just for the sake of doing it since I have no idea when it was last done. I've just been focusing on repairing the frame when I am not at work and haven't had a chance to chase this bogged down issue. I am pulling the bed tomorrow and starting the frame swap. As long as everything goes somewhat as planned - they never go exactly as planned - I will be checking some of the other components to see what I find.

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Posted: Fri Jan 24th, 2020 12:46 pm

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If you do all the common stuff and can't get any better response, check the temp of the cats with one of those laser thermometers and see how hot they are. A partially clogged cat can cause this exact thing and exhibit no other symptoms and no CEL. If you know someone with the forscan software you might be able to tell which bank by O2 sensor temps. or someone with a more advanced scanner capable of more than just reading codes.

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Posted: Fri Jan 24th, 2020 07:29 pm

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I agree with 410 and Jamman; check the air and fuel filters (pulling a couple of plugs couldn't hurt either). Cats are a possibility and I once saw where a header pipe (double-walled) collapsed on the inside, but this was back in the 1970's. Also, with the engine running, check at the tailpipe to see if there is the expected exhaust gas flow, especially if you have someone else rev the engine. Your 4.0 SOHC should have a butt-load of power. The 2001 I had would climb a tree if you could get traction! :)

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Posted: Fri Jan 24th, 2020 08:32 pm

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I agree 4:10s in 4.0L SOHC should be quick from a dig. Mine had 3:73s and had plenty of beans

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Posted: Sat Jan 25th, 2020 10:36 am

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listening to the exhaust is a good idea, I can usually identify a stumble or restriction by the exhaust tone, beat, and rhythm
Another thing with a 01 SOHC is intake plenum O rings, look around the base of your intake manifold where it plastic meets the metal, any signs of buildup of crud, like extra dirt and oil can be a sign of a leaky manifold allowing un metered air to enter the system = lean condition. Until the leaks get bad enough for the computer to not be able to compensate they can cause a loss of performance.

Cleaning the MAS sensor, checking/replacing air and fuel filters is a good first step, a dirty MAS can cause all sorts of issues

Last edited on Sat Jan 25th, 2020 10:37 am by 410customs

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Posted: Sat Jan 25th, 2020 11:55 am

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I would look at the throttle body plate to see if it is dirty or not, the one on my dads 02 was nasty, cleaned it and put new spark plugs in and it ran a lot better, all you gotta do is loosen the intake plenum and pull it away, remove the 4 bolts holding the throttle body from the intake, unplug the tps, disconnect the cables and away you go. Be careful not to damage the recessed gasket if you remove it to clean it as well.

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Last edited on Sat Jan 25th, 2020 11:56 am by 97rangerstepside

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Posted: Sun Jan 26th, 2020 09:41 am

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Wow! That cleaned up really nice!

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Posted: Mon Jan 27th, 2020 08:56 am

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Thanks everyone!

I ended up taking a look at my throttle cable at the gas pedal and found about an inch or so of play. I ended up doing the throttle cable mod with two zip ties and it made a huge difference but I still feel like there is a little more to be desired. I could probably fit one more zip tie on the cable but I'll mess with that at a later date. I did pull the air filter out like I wanted to. It isn't as dirty as I expected but I will be changing it out. If by putting a third zip tie and new air filter doesn't make any more a difference, I have some good ideas where to look at next.

Pulling the throttle plate and cleaning it doesn't sound like a bad idea to do just to do it. Unfortunately, some of this will have to hold off for a bit.

As I said in a post above, I was starting the rear frame swap on this truck over the past weekend. I ended up finding some more wrong than I had planned for starting with pulling the bedliner out. I am probably going to need a new bed sooner than later - the front against the bulkhead is pretty much gone with only 1 bed bolt holding the front down with barely any steel left to do so. I pulled the bed off - which doing so by yourself is one big PITA btw - I found that my shocks and shock mounts are toast as well. I didn't even think about them when I was checking to shackle & leaf mounts to see if I needed to order those before hand. I ended up taking pictures and creating a list of anything I may need to do the swap and put the bed back on until I can get the parts in. This project officially took the primary seat over anything else. I started a build thread which details my plans for the truck and I will be updating it starting with the rear frame/bed swap once I begin if anyone would want to see the progress on that.

Side note, if anyone has a lead on an Oxford White bed in the Pittsburgh, PA/Wheeling, WV/Morgantown, WV area I may be interested! lol

Last edited on Mon Jan 27th, 2020 08:58 am by Stringer

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Posted: Mon Jan 27th, 2020 09:04 am

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Yeah, if Ford had just been a little more generous with PAINT when they built these trucks, we wouldn't be seeing this kind of post. I will find your build thread and subscribe so I can see how things come along! :)

Last edited on Mon Jan 27th, 2020 04:57 pm by mhoward

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Posted: Mon Jan 27th, 2020 03:07 pm

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Jesse, if you need some metal to patch the bed floor I purchased a piece off of Ebay & ended up replacing the bed on my Ranger, I still have the piece which is 2' wide by 4' long. I ended up buying a bed locally for very cheap that the front l/s front floor, l/s lower front panel & l/s front support crossmember section was rotted & that was the only good part left on my old bed. I cut out of my old bed what I needed to repair the replacement bed & made a new front bed crossmember for the l/s. Check out my build thread I posted pics of my old bed & the replacement bed, & what I did to repair the replacement bed. Here is a link to the page with the bed repairs. https://ford-rangers.com/forum45/750-2.html

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Posted: Mon Jan 27th, 2020 04:05 pm

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Mike69 wrote:
Jesse, if you need some metal to patch the bed floor I purchased a piece off of Ebay & ended up replacing the bed on my Ranger, I still have the piece which is 2' wide by 4' long. I ended up buying a bed locally for very cheap that the front l/s front floor, l/s lower front panel & l/s front support crossmember section was rotted & that was the only good part left on my old bed. I cut out of my old bed what I needed to repair the replacement bed & made a new front bed crossmember for the l/s. Check out my build thread I posted pics of my old bed & the replacement bed, & what I did to repair the replacement bed. Here is a link to the page with the bed repairs. https://ford-rangers.com/forum45/750-2.html
Crazy, I was looking at your build thread over on FordRangerForum.com earlier today. It came up when doing a search for something else.
I don't know if just piecing the bed floor together will be good enough. My build thread is posted here:

https://ford-rangers.com/view_topic.php?id=1885&forum_id=45

You will be able to see the state my bed currently is in.

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Posted: Sat Feb 8th, 2020 10:12 am

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If you have over 150000 miles check cats, They starve your motor of power throughout acceleration, I have a 2005 with 190000 on it and just experienced the same issues and a misfire code, after changing plugs and wires and EGR valve with neg. results dismantled cats and truck is a new vehicle!!

Last edited on Sat Feb 8th, 2020 10:21 am by H2O56

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Posted: Sat Feb 8th, 2020 10:44 am

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Welcome to F-R H2O56!

I have gutted the cats on a 01 3.0 and it really brought it to life. The mileage doesn't really matter, I have seen a younger vehicle with a faulty injector (drizzle) that was ignored (light, rich condition bank 2 I believe) and it totally melted the inside of the first cat on the drivers side, clogging the second.

And I have a 4.0 with over 200K, no cat problems at all.

You are correct though that could be the issue and is among the hardest things to diagnose. I have one of those laser thermometers , sometimes an extreme temperature can be a symptom of a partially clogged cat.

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Posted: Sat Feb 8th, 2020 12:22 pm

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Just curious; do you gut the cats on a Ranger the same way we used to do it back in the 70s and 80s? Basically we just used a sledge hammer and a tire spoon to bust the honeycomb stuff up until we could shake it all out.

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Posted: Sat Feb 8th, 2020 01:51 pm

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WELL if you want to get all 5 of them like on a 01 3.0, you have to drill a hole for the crossover one. Drilled a hole, used a 3/8 piece of rod to bust it out. After empty I silver soldered a patch over the hole.

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Posted: Sat Feb 8th, 2020 05:32 pm

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So in a non-emissions state, can you just get a muffler shop to cut them out and replace with pipe?

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mhoward wrote:
So in a non-emissions state, can you just get a muffler shop to cut them out and replace with pipe?
Absolutely not, it is illegal but not enforced. You would have to do more than one really stupid thing to get busted though. If you pull the truck in on a trailer and tell them it is for race only then you could get a custom exhaust.

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Posted: Sat Feb 8th, 2020 07:14 pm

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Well crap...

I don't suspect my cats are clogged or restricting exhaust flow (at least no more than normal). Was just thinking for the future.

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