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How to add the "A" pillar grab       #: 126
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX, Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 03:12 pm
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Here is how I added the "A" pillar grab handles on my 2000 Ranger that did not come from the factory with them.
Tools needed;1) Cordless drill,2) Drill bits,3) Riv-nut intalation tool,4) Phillips head screw driver,5) 7/32" nut driver, or 1/4" drive socket & rachet.
Here is a list of the parts I used;1) 4L5Z-1003598-BAB, Dark graphite A pillar molding r/s (purchased from Tasca Ford),2) 4L5Z-1003599-BAB, Dark graphite A pillar molding l/s (purchased from Tasca Ford),3) F87Z-10026A52-AA, A pillar grab handle bracket (purchased from Tasca Ford),4) F87Z-10026A53-AA, A pillar grab handle bracket (purchased from Tasca Ford),5) 2 Medium graphite grab handles w/the screws & the screw covers (purchased from a local JY. The ones that mount over the passengers side door on the inside roof are the same),6) 1 box of kick panel retainer clips Pt-#19760 (purchased from Amazon),7) Medium graphite interior trim paint to repaint the "A" pillar trim moldings since my interior is medium graphite & the medium graphite moldings are not available from Ford any more. Only 2005 & up are available & they are a little different. I will explain later. (I purchased the interior trim paint from Late Model Restoration),8) Riv-nuts & screws or you could use bolts to mount the grab handle brackets. The riv-nuts IIRC were 38-16.
Here is a pic of all the pieces needed for one side;


Here is a pic of the kick panel clips I used to attach the molding over the door;

Here is how I did it,1) Removed the old "A" pillar moldings,2) Drilled out the 4 holes where the grab handle brackets would attach to just enough to accept the riv-nut. (ONLY MAKE THE HOLE LARGE ENOUGH FOR THE RIV_NUT TO BARELY SLIP IN THE HOLE),3) Install the 8 riv-nuts, ( 4 per side) (You will need a riv-nut install tool),
4) Attach the 2 "A" pillar grab handle brackets w/the screws or bolts,
5) Here is the part where I had to modify the "A" pillar moldings because the retainer studs on the back of the new moldings where they clip to the roof are longer then my old moldings & would not let the new moldings sit flush. Compare the back of the new & old moldings, if you are adding them to an older Ranger compare the new & old moldings &  you will see the difference. If you are adding them to a newer Ranger (2005 & up I believe) they should be the same & can skip this & the next 2 steps.


6) What I did was use side cutters & I cut off the stem on the back of the new moldings that has the retainer clip on it so the base is the same height as my old molding.7) Now I had to come up with a way to attach the molding to the inside roof over the door. I had 2 ideas;  1st was- use plastic clips that the sun visor screws go into since they fit in the retainer clip hole snugly,   2nd was- use 2 plastic kick panel clips. (That is the way I choose) While holding the new molding in place I marked the molding where the slot in the roof is where the old molding clipped in to & drilled 2 holes at my marks. I re checked the alignment of the 2 holes to make sure they were in the right spot & then enlarged them to accept the kick panel clips,8) Since my interior is medium graphite & the only color close was dark graphite I painted them & the 2 retainer clips to match my interior,9) I installed the new "A" pillar moldings using the 2 kick panel clips over the doors, (the new moldings are a little different where they meet the rear side panel. Look at the pic & you will see the difference in size. Unless you are lucky enough to score a set that are for your year truck these were the only option I had,
10) Install the 2 grab handles.

Closing note, Everything fit perfectly with the exception of where the "A" pillar molding meets the rear side molding over the door. If it does not bother you like it does not me, you can add the grab handles like I did.

Last edited on Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 08:28 pm by Mike69



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 Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2017 12:23 am
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MaDMaXX

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Thanks for the write up - the pictures helped a lot, the issue with those rear mount points are what i ran into with the 2003 moulding when i attempted to fit it to my 2002!!

Anyway, can't get hold of anything old than 2004 now.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2017 08:43 am
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MaDMaXX wrote: Thanks for the write up - the pictures helped a lot, the issue with those rear mount points are what i ran into with the 2003 moulding when i attempted to fit it to my 2002!!

Anyway, can't get hold of anything old than 2004 now.

I am glad it helped you. I used the a pillar trim from a 2006 Ranger.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 5th, 2017 12:31 am
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Ooh, forgot to ask, do you have any details on the rivnuts and the tool? i've not heard of or seen them before.



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This looks like something I would like to do, but I doubt it would be this easy on the first gen as far as the interior plastics are concerned...

Good Job!!

The bad part of being on a forum like this.. I keep wanting to do more with the truck...



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 Posted: Sun Nov 5th, 2017 07:01 am
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Here are links to the riv nuts & the tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-RN1024-10-24/dp/B01J7X4DIA/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1513442668&sr=1-4&keywords=10-24+rivet+nut


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w2007?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-performance-tool&gclid=CjwKCAjw7frPBRBVEiwAuDf_LaiJ6z8uUrCpfv5IdcR14MXMLpCfCHGzPL296D2nHCXqsogSCRN6vxoCjNgQAvD_BwE



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 Posted: Sun Nov 5th, 2017 04:42 pm
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And said, 3/8th by 16 for the rivnuts, right?



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MaDMaXX wrote: And said, 3/8th by 16 for the rivnuts, right?
Yes.



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I looked in to the riv nuts... that tool is expensive is there a cheaper option?



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Here is one I found on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Surebonder-8510-10-24-Threaded-Insert/dp/B0003J2B5A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509995526&sr=8-1&keywords=threaded+insert+tool&dpID=31AsvW5qyTL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

And this one at Harbor Frieght.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hand-riveters.html



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I have a harbor freight real close to my house, thank you.



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Would any rivet tool work for threaded rivets?
Used a tool before, just with regular rivets though.

Last edited on Mon Nov 6th, 2017 03:45 pm by MaDMaXX



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MaDMaXX wrote: Would any rivet tool work for threaded rivets?
Used a tool before, just with regular rivets though.

No I do not think a regular rivet gun would work, but then again I never tried one.



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Hmm, looks like it really does need to be a specific threaded version of the tool.

Some of those mention alu only (haborfreight) or breaks very quickly (the amazon link) I wonder if Home depot has them perhaps?



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I just wanted to add here, that if anyone is looking to buy the grab handles new from Ford, the part you grab, it does not come with the 'dust covers' to go over the screws!!



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If they're still available that's a plus...

I have to admit, at first I wasn't too wild about this at first but the more I get over the pillar plastic not being so called perfect, the more useful I see it as for the handles.

Was the passenger side done the same or did I see you just leave the overhead handle in place? or both on passenger side?



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Yes, caps appear available.

I got some black a pillar trims that will fit mine, i have the brackets, the handles, sans caps, i do not have anything to fix them to the pillars yet.



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Nice write-up.
I did something similar to my ranger but I don't have the grab handles on the pillars, rather on the pass side roof.
I grabbed a handle from an explorer, drilled & tapped for 1/4-20 screws & mounted mine in the same area on the driver side.
While you probably can't pull your entire weight up with it, I do find it handy for a little extra uuumph every once in a while ha!



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OK I'm resurrecting this thread being I am just about ready to do it, along with the explorer hinge mod and will need riv nuts for that also.

The link is for 1/4-20 (just over 6MM) nuts in steel. Your note said 3/8-16 (just under 10mm).
Are you sure you used 3/8-16? Seems rather large?

One of the tools you linked to had aluminum nuts with it, another had only up to 1/4-20.

When you used your tool, did it seem to strain or barely pull the nut? I can't see a tool that is made for 1/4-20 pulling a 3/8-16 nut especially in steel as opposed to aluminum, is that the exact one you used or did you use one a little heavier?

I'm probably going to get a little heavier tool any way due to multiple rangers LOL and other projects I have in mind but wondering on the 3/8-16 nuts.

I'm probably grinding the mounts off the donor ranger this weekend I'll see how big the hole is but would like to have nuts ready.



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Undrstm8ed wrote: If they're still available that's a plus...

I have to admit, at first I wasn't too wild about this at first but the more I get over the pillar plastic not being so called perfect, the more useful I see it as for the handles.

Was the passenger side done the same or did I see you just leave the overhead handle in place? or both on passenger side?

I did both l/s & r/s a pillar grab handles & left the on on the inside roof on the passengers side. BTW the grab handles over the passengers side door on the roof are the same ones for the a pillar, I just grabbed a couple from 2 different Rangers in the JY with the same interior color along with the screws & the screw covers. I also have 2 extra grab handles.

Jim, I will pull one of the moldings off & pull one of the screws out of the riv nut & check it against the extra ones I have & give you the size on them. The tool seemed from what I remember pulled ok, also the riv nuts I used on mine were brass colored ones. I spent the $26.97 & got the one pictured in the link to Summit Racing because I had the need to do some on my 69 Mustang.



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Thanks.

Guess I'm lucky, I already have one over passenger side. AND the donor truck is a 98 with the exact same color interior as mine. My non grab handle covers are going back in the 98.



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I too am really close to being able to do this, but like you, Jamman, i'm "stuck" at the tool and rivnut section.

From what i've read, honestly, decent tools aren't cheap, particularly ones that will pull a steel nut through ok.

The other method is use a long bolt with a nut and washer on it, i've seen that the threaded type tools (basically a bolt like i described) get it pulled the tightest to the metal.

The only parts i'm missing now, are the caps for the handles (cosmetic) the bolts to attach to the frame and the rivnuts to insert in the frame.



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JAMMAN wrote: OK I'm resurrecting this thread being I am just about ready to do it, along with the explorer hinge mod and will need riv nuts for that also.

The link is for 1/4-20 (just over 6MM) nuts in steel. Your note said 3/8-16 (just under 10mm).
Are you sure you used 3/8-16? Seems rather large?

One of the tools you linked to had aluminum nuts with it, another had only up to 1/4-20.

When you used your tool, did it seem to strain or barely pull the nut? I can't see a tool that is made for 1/4-20 pulling a 3/8-16 nut especially in steel as opposed to aluminum, is that the exact one you used or did you use one a little heavier?

I'm probably going to get a little heavier tool any way due to multiple rangers LOL and other projects I have in mind but wondering on the 3/8-16 nuts.

I'm probably grinding the mounts off the donor ranger this weekend I'll see how big the hole is but would like to have nuts ready.

Jim, I pulled the A pillar trim off today & there are no markings on the riv-nuts, so I took out one of the screws for the grab handle bracket & tested it on my supply of riv-nuts & it looks like they are either the 10-24, or the 1/4-20. I am going to order a bag of 25 each & see which one it is, but I believe they are the 10-24.



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If you have measuring calipers the #10 will be just under .187" and the 1/4 will be just under .25"

I figured it couldn't be 3/8-16 that is huge by comparison (.375")

Thanks



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Jamman, any progress on this yet?



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