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Weird noise from middle/ rear diff. #: 1220

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Posted: Mon Sep 3rd, 2018 05:20 pm

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Austin O.
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my 2002 ford ranger 3.0L has an odd sound and sounds like whining coming from the middle/ rear diff. Area. It happens around 40-43 mph at 1600-2000 rpms and stops when I let off the gas, but starts again when I barely press the accelerator. Don't know what it is and haven't been able to find a remedy.

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Posted: Mon Sep 3rd, 2018 06:31 pm

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JAMMAN

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Welcome to F-R!

You need to immediately check the differential for fluid. Problem is if it is low there is usually a reason (leak) and by the time you hear it it might be too late (sorry). You can also get water in rear end from vent tube being broken or removed, that will smoke the bearings also and make it howl.

If you are lucky it might be the rear universal joint, it could be dry and going bad.

I would pull the rear end cover and look at things. If it looks good and had oil clean the gasket surface, put some silicone sealer on it and button it up... move to the U joint. Unless it is wasted it will be hard to determine if it is bad. I usually take the shaft off the rear end and manipulate the u-joint by hand so I can feel the grinding.

Sorry if it is bad news.

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Posted: Mon Sep 3rd, 2018 06:41 pm

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black06xlt
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It could be a cracked brake drum. Usually a driveline noise gets louder when you let of the gas

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Austin O.

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Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2018 09:28 pm

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Welcome, Glad you joimed us. Have fun and enjoy F-R.
From Don
Grove City, Ohio. :frd

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Posted: Wed Sep 5th, 2018 07:03 am

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Austin O.
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There's no sign of leaking anywhere near the rear of the vehicle. No leakage around the rear diff. I checked the fluid and there is the right level of fluid, but I believe it's old because it's very dark and and gunky and thick. The u-joint looks to be in decent condition as well, but I'll try the manipulating it by hand, too. Does this help single anything out? Also, I've seen that maybe it could be the ring and pinions. Thanks

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Posted: Wed Sep 5th, 2018 10:11 am

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Starting to sound like the rear diff is going bad. Could be a bad pinon bearing or spider gears getting worn. Take the cover off of the rear diff. If it has metal shavings in the oil outside of the normal amount rear axle needs replaced. Take the drive shaft off the yolk and check for slop in the pinion. But it's starting to sound like a rear axle issue. But dont rule out a bad ujoint. If it's an older truck with some mileage on it putting new ujoints in it would be a good idea anyway. It may even fix your problem. Ujoints are inexpensive to buy and usually easy to change.

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Posted: Fri Sep 7th, 2018 12:07 am

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Eddie Money
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Rear differential gear oil is supposed to be thick. Usually around 90wt as opposed to engine oil at 30wt. Not sure on color.

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Posted: Fri Sep 7th, 2018 01:56 pm

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Austin, welcome to F-R. Like stated above it sounds like the ring & pinion gears are going bad. :(

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Posted: Fri Sep 7th, 2018 04:10 pm

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Austin O.
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How difficult is it to replace? Also, do they sell r&p assemblies?

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Posted: Fri Sep 7th, 2018 05:39 pm

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It is the setup of a pinion that can be a PIA. It has to be shimmed to have a neutral gear lash otherwise it will be noisy and wear out prematurely. Basically take some grease and smear it on the ring gears and put everything together and spin the pinion noticing where the grease trails on the ring gear and the pinion face. You want it to be in the middle of both. So the trick is getting the right shim.

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Posted: Sat Sep 8th, 2018 11:08 am

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Yes even if you are familiar with the setup they can be difficult. I've only done a couple.

And no on the assembly, the carrier has to be removed to replace the ring, the pinion has to go in while the carrier is out, and each time a shim adjustment has to be made the carrier has to come back out.

Today I assisted in taking an entire rear end out of an explorer. A ranger would be easier since it is under the springs instead of over.

I would suggest buying a good used rear end and putting it in instead of messing with gears. If it is grinding... the bearings, spider gears, other things are probably worn also. You can usually get a good ranger rear end for around 200 bucks. You will have that in a gear set and bearings plus many more variables installing it. Variables translate to extreme headaches plus if you get it wrong it will only take a couple months to wear it out again.

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Posted: Sat Sep 8th, 2018 12:49 pm

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Like Jim said it's cheaper and easier to replace the axle compared to replacing the gear set. A quick search on Facebook marketplace and you can a complete ranger for parts for around $500 or a few hundred for an axle. Local pick-a-parts are usually the cheapest place to buy one. If you go to a salvage yard be sure you pull the cover off first inspect the the gear oil and the gears. It only takes an hour or 2 to swap out the housing. Only tools you need is a 12mm 12 point for the driveshaft 18mm and 15mm for the shocks 11mm line wrench for the brake hose and an 18mm for the ubolts. The hardest part is the driveshaft

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Posted: Sat Sep 8th, 2018 08:02 pm

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Eddie Money
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black06xlt wrote:
Like Jim said it's cheaper and easier to replace the axle compared to replacing the gear set. A quick search on Facebook marketplace and you can a complete ranger for parts for around $500 or a few hundred for an axle. Local pick-a-parts are usually the cheapest place to buy one. If you go to a salvage yard be sure you pull the cover off first inspect the the gear oil and the gears. It only takes an hour or 2 to swap out the housing. Only tools you need is a 12mm 12 point for the driveshaft 18mm and 15mm for the shocks 11mm line wrench for the brake hose and an 18mm for the ubolts. The hardest part is the driveshaft
Having a guys like you, JAMMAN and 410customs on this forum is awesome! You guys win ROOTY award. Ranger owners of the year. Insane details.

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Austin O.

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Posted: Sun Sep 9th, 2018 02:34 pm

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black06xlt
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Thanks Eddie. That's why we are all on here yo help eachother out when needed and offer a little guidance.

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Posted: Mon Sep 10th, 2018 01:57 pm

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Austin O.
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Ok, I'm going under today and gonna inspect the gears and what not, do a flush and probably take the u joint off and see if it could be replaced. Any additives I should look into throwing into the rear diff to help?

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Posted: Mon Sep 10th, 2018 09:02 pm

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black06xlt
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Additives in my opinion are a waste of money. The only additive you need to add is friction modifier. Only if it's a limited slip. But most all synthetic gear oils have the modifier already mixed in. But if it's an open carrier no modifier needed

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