I did an LED Taillight Assembly install a while back, over 5 years ago.
I don't remember the actual year of the assembly style but it wasn't an '03 and it had different connectors but they were easily modified.

The taillights were exactly what I wanted in the terms of looks but they only had two segments not three as I also wanted, so I had to do a switcher-rue, with the connectors and wiring.
I moved the backup lights to the bumper, moved the directional function to the backup light position in the housings, and made the brake lights... just brake/tail lights.
Having separate brake and turn signals is a safer way to have taillights and a little european.
The wiring method has been posted here already so I will only give you the high lights.
This is what I did:
1) Cut the Brake/Directional Light Wire off of the Socket and left about a three inch lead on the socket.
2) Cut the Backup Light Wire from the Socket leaving a three inch lead.
3) Cut the Brake Light Switch Wire NO from the Brake Light Switch Connector under the dash, taped it back.
4) Attached a new 16 ga. Wire to the NO side of the Brake Light Switch Connector and ran it to the Brake Light Socket.
5) Attached the Cut-Off Brake/Directional Light Wire, cut from the Brake/Directional Socket, to the Backup Light Socket position, making the backup lights the new directionals.


If this sounds complicated it isn't, just take your time, use good electrical practices to make sure things stay running smoothly.

Ant questions ask !

Here are the LED Tail Light Assemblies I used, I like the look and glad I did the mod.

Last edited on Thu Apr 11th, 2019 07:08 pm by Scrambler82

This is a picture of three installs.

1) Brush Guard, Custom 4x4Fabrication in OK City, OK, has expanded his product line to include a Bolt-On Brush Guard with two Light Tabs.
I got one, fits perfect, as all his work.  My Front and Custom Rear Bumpers are from there too and he is working on a Wheel to Wheel  Opening Rock Slider with Wrap up Protection for the Rocker Panel.

2) The LED Light Bar under the Brush Guard, X-Mas Gift, not wired but bolted in place.
eBay Special, price was really good, almost too good.
When hooking up directly to the battery it puts out a lot of light, more concerned how long it will work.

3) The three lights mounted at the top of the Grille.  Flush Mounted, 8mm, almost too bright LED Lights... I know another look-a-like Raptor Lighting scheme.   The aluminums bar will be painted black, hoping it will blend in.

The Grille surround is missing, I am trying to decide just how much I need to cut from the lower bar to allow the Winch to me mounted. (Warn 9.5)




To come:

1) New Audio System, Alpine, iLX-207 Head Unit, Pioneer Speakers, x6, Sub by Pioneer, 10", modified enclosure.
2) Working on new motor, not sure which one yet but since I have a 5.0L ('93 SVO) I may stick to the tired and true motor and get it done.
3) Power Windows and Locks, OEM form a 2002, got the doors before moving to SOCal, just need to get it done.
4) New Seat Covers, I have them, based on the FX4 Seat Covers with RED Panels, but I am looking for what to use for foam.   OEMnot available anymore so I'm thinking custom shop stuff.
5) Powder Coat the Back Rack, after adding a little more steel to the lower sides.  
6) Wire up a lot of LED Lighting... Bed Lights, High Mounted Directionals and new 3rd Brake Light on the Back Rack, Brake Light Strip under the Tail Gate with three second flasher, and backup lights.
7) Projector Head Lights, this one might get done faster but it is on the list.
8) Windshield Visor

Powder Coating is at a local shop, nice to have a few within short driving distance, I have a few item left to gather and off they go.

OK that enough for now If I can get these done I will be happy.

Ltr

Last edited on Wed Jan 15th, 2020 09:48 pm by Scrambler82

Here is what I did to the Sub Enclosure, I do not have step by step pictures.
I took a 10" Wedge Enclosure, cut a notch in upper back to fit the step in the back wall of the cab.
Then cut the back off approximately 1.5".
Cleaned up the Cut Off pieces and glued the back to the enclosure and flipped the notch cut and glued it back in place.
Effectively, and this is an approximate guess, I cut 0.19 cubic feet of volume out of an Enclosure that started at 0.88 cubic feet, so I end up with a volume of 0.67 !
The sub I want to order requires 0.20 to 0.60 so this enclosure isn't too far off, hoping it works.

Here is the pictures are the enclosure now sets, it still need to have new felt add to the enclosure and the Wire Connectin.
Full View from Passenger showing top mod.
You can see the Cut Notch but the back looks like it wasn't touched.
it fits tight, I have to put the top under the lip then push the lower end in place.



Driver's side view fo the Notch Cut out and reversed.
The notch was cut to fit under this lip, but it is a little tight; should have cut it a 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch lower, I was trying to get a tight fit but didn't allow for the felt.
After some sanding hoping it will fit better.




Passenage side view of the Notch.
The piece that was cut from the notch, has been flipped and glued in place.  
You can see the lip that used to go around the outside of the box now follows the new lines... that worked out better than I thought.
Also, I left the side pieces on the notch (the step portion) until I glued everything together, this helped the notch piece to hold its shape.
Once the glue dried, using a hammer the side pieces on the cut out piece were removed with no I'll affect. ( Hope you can understand that )




Full view Driver's side.



I still to do some sanding, add the felt and the wire connection.
The Wire Connection used to on the rear but will end up on whichever side has the wires coming at it !
I plan on the passenger side but I am leaving that up to the installation shop.
The Console can fit back in OEM Position but I am not sure if I will be keeping it, time will tell. ( New automatic shifter will dictate where things go )
There you have what has been done, sorry I didn't even think about taking pictures along the way.
Ltr

here is what I started with:

Last edited on Thu Feb 20th, 2020 10:29 pm by Scrambler82

Tweeter Pods, I started the Tweeter install part of the audio system here in my shop so I could mount them where I wanted them.
I had talked a little to the Install shop about the location and the owner said it didn't matter as long as it was within so many inches of the 6.75" Door Speakers.
I started with Gauge Pods, trimmed them up and heated them to mold each one to fit the Windshield Pillars, they didn't turn out too bad, still needed some work to finish the fitment but when I taped them in place I didn't like them.

On to Plan B,  I took the Pioneer Tweeter Pods that came with the front speaker system, and tried them, I like what I saw, minimalistic in both size and placement.
Wiring isn't run but I am leaving tha tup to the shop.


The Gauge Pods, one right hand and one left hand.
The Plastic cut easily, the plastic heated up a little quicker than I thought but all'n all, formed well, just not well enough.



You can see on this one, the opening for the gauge, it is melted a little, too much heat, too fast !




Plan B, Pioneer Pods, Mounted on the Windshield Pillars.
This location keep the Tweeters close enough to the main front speakers but in direct line with the passengers.

















I was surprised how secure they were once the two supplied screws were tightened.
I can drill deeper and hit metal to secure it more if needed; I will drive it for a while and see how it holds up.

The Audio System Project is started, as soon as the new woofer arrives I will get an install day and send the package, Truck and parts to the audio shop.


One project less to worry about.

Ltr

Last edited on Thu Feb 20th, 2020 06:49 pm by Scrambler82