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1999 Ranger "Gold Dust" - Part       #: 1828
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 Posted: Sat Dec 14th, 2019 05:33 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911
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@Ranger_Danger_ Thank you! I'm going to need all the luck I can get.

@blacko6xlt: I'm going to keep that diff cover in mind. I've got a hard time swallowing 150+ for a just a cover.

That said, I have parts! Main mount bracket, caliper bracket, and anti moan bracket with all the bolts+nuts.

The harness you see is to help me out with the doors. I pulled the entire harness out of a power door, so hopefully no splicing needed. The other half of that is where it goes in the truck. Unfortunately it's not as easy as it looked previously.

The door harness plugs into another medium sized hardness  that runs under the carpet to god knows where, one wire goes to the emergency brake switch, and then it leads to that great big plug you see which connects to the main dash harness.

I'll need to figure out what wires are for the new power options and run them as needed, tossing the rest to the side. The passenger side is ready to go, and I have the relay box all populated, so all I should need to do is run a few wires to that big ol' plug and call it good.

I had to just about take the dash out entirely to get to it. All the gold bolts had to go, and I had to disconnect the steering shaft as well as the e-brake release to get myself enough room to work.

I also took off the e brake itself so I could remove the harness I needed. Three bolts and it was out of the way. I didn't remove the cable. That said, it was a bear to work with. May not be so hard when I'm in a warm garage and not so crowded.

Now, I generally don't like to say how much I paid for things, but I have to share this. I got that entire harness and all that brake hardware for less than $20! Closer to $11. That's what I call a deal!

Last edited on Sat Dec 14th, 2019 05:33 pm by TheArcticWolf1911



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 Posted: Sat Dec 14th, 2019 07:51 pm
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mhoward
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410customs wrote:
led diff lights!!!
OMG! I am SO all over that idea!



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sun Dec 15th, 2019 01:45 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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OK, I've got a rockauto order cooked up for payday.

For the rear diff...
Brake Calipers (pair)
Brake Rotors (pair)
Brake Pads (pair)
Soft brake lines (caliper to hard line - L/R)
Diff to frame soft line
Bearings + Seals (L/R)
Friction Modifier
Clutch packs

For the front....
Upper control arms (L/R)
Lower control arms (L/R)
Outer Tie Rod Ends (L/R)

And last but not least, new bushings for the rear leaf springs. Mine are shot and creak like a rocking chair!

This one is gonna hurt the ol' wallet a bit, to the tune of 774 after shipping w/ a discount, but it'll be worth it.

It's not helping that I have a nearly inescapable core charge of $50 on the calipers, and these are all getting shipped from 5 different places, so there's another $69.

That said, I'm still saving a good bit by using Rockauto and not buying local.

If for some reason you haven't heard of or haven't tried RockAuto, give 'em a try. Seriously. Save hundreds instantly!

For tomorrow, I'm going to get the drum brakes taken off and pitched, the old soft line off, get the backing plates cut and put on, and I would like to get on my way with cleaning the rust and crap off the diff. I'd like to get a wire wheel to slap onto our angle grinder. We have one from harbor freight, but it's so horribly balanced that it shakes like mad, to the point where you almost cant control your own hands, which I didn't even know was possible. Oh, and a new sawzall with carbide blade. I'll need that to cut the backing plates.

Now, I'm wanting to buy yet another tool. I see that harbor freight as a corded impact from Bauer, which apparently has a touch over 1000 ft/lbs of break away torque. Seems like its a good idea for $100. Anyone have any experience? I'd like to have it around for some of the nastier fasteners, like the exhaust and suspension bolts.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 15th, 2019 09:31 am
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410customs

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rockauto discount code:

125147768113250287

If you play around with the parts in the cart sometimes you can get the shipping down to one or two places

As much as I love Harbor Freight
You sure you want a corded impact?
My 20V Dewalt has a break away force of 1300 ft lbs....it has revolutionized the way I take things apart in the shop. No more air compressor and air lines. We call it Hank and Hank is awesome.

If you buy sawzall blades get the Milwaukee "torch" blades they are insane. You either use these or you get a torch.......

I LOVE Rockauto I ALWAYS have a discount code since we order so much from them. They encourage me to share it with my friends soo.....

Autozone brought back their lifetime warranty on brake parts, for me this is gold. I keep my trucks for a LONG time (BII driver for 20+ years now). The New Duralast rotors are WAY better then they used to be. With a lifetime warranty I buy my calipers, rotors and pads from them and from now on I don't have to.....they wear out I exchange them. They used to be like this years ago...and because of people like me they stopped it. I mean I have like 12 vehicles I maintain for friends and family if all 12 of them have autozone brakes front and rear then they will never sell me another brake part its always gonna be warranty replacement :)
Sometimes we win!
Something to consider. 

Loving this thread so far!

Last edited on Sun Dec 15th, 2019 09:35 am by 410customs



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 Posted: Sun Dec 15th, 2019 11:29 am
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chris

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410customs wrote:
I keep my trucks for a LONG time (BII driver for 20+ years now).
Lol - I have had my MGB for 42 years .... :coffee



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 Posted: Sun Dec 15th, 2019 11:31 am
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mhoward
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Chris wrote:
410customs wrote:

I keep my trucks for a LONG time (BII driver for 20+ years now).
Lol - I have had my MGB for 42 years .... :coffee

Damn, Chris... how old ARE you? :) LOL



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So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sun Dec 15th, 2019 03:21 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911
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Thanks for the code, 410.

I'm fairly certain I want a corded one. I haven't had good luck with battery tools, but that said I've never shelled out for the big guys like Milwaukee or Dewalt. I find the batteries crap out way before the tool does, leaving me with junk.

I don't have a compressor either, rather one that'll handle an impact gun so that's out of the question.

As long as I've got 120 at the outlet, that tool will always perform at it's highest until it wears out. Cords don't really bother me. I also don't have the need to really bring it anywhere, say the junkyard for example.

I'll look into those blades, btw. I saw some Diablo brand blades and they seem to be the bee's knees.

Unfortunately I haven't even gotten that thermostat in. I swear, this F150 fights me every inch of the way with everything. I started 2 hours ago....

So, I'm in here cooling off before I beat the red off that thing. Every day I mess with that F150, the more I love my Ranger. My Ranger doesn't put up much of a fight with hardly a thing.

If I ever get it back together, I'll start in on some other projects that might cooperate better.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 15th, 2019 06:17 pm
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mhoward wrote:
Damn, Chris... how old ARE you? :) LOL
Hmm let me think about that ...



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 Posted: Mon Dec 16th, 2019 12:15 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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I've been doing a little thinking and some extra planning.

While kicking around the idea of a high output alternator, I decided I'm going to do the big 3. I'm surprised I haven't yet, actually. And I think I know how I'd like to do it. I'm going to buy some 4 AWG inverter cables which are pre-terminated and run those where I need 'em to go.

Maybe I'm just ill-equipped to work with higher gauge wires, say above 10 AWG, but I've always found that installing terminals onto such large wires to be a pain that never looks good in the end. These are pre-terminated, and are at a decent price.

Only issue is, both ends are terminated. That's great for bolting it to the frame or alternator where I need a fastener going through it, but when it goes back to the battery, I'm in a bit of a pickle.

I'll be going with a new pair of battery terminals, the kind that lets you slide wires in and hold 'em in with set screws, so obviously I want to slide them in that way, but I must admit I feel a bit bad about lopping those nice connectors off.

I could get some 4 AWG that's all nice and flexible, then get the proper stuff to terminate them, but I'd likely never use it again.

Decisions, decisions....

Then I happened to think of a potential issue I may run into. The battery itself. Turns out, the 5.0 calls for a bigger battery than the 3.0 does. No surprise to me. I've got a group 58, where the expo calls for a 65, according to autozone.

OK, so swap the battery tray and drop the bigger battery in. Only one problem. I've foolishly mounted a relay box next to the battery, which leaves just about zero room left to expand the battery. I'll need to relocate this relay box elsewhere.

Which.... that brings another complication. Most of what's in there is nothing special. However, my efan wires are fairly thick (9 AWG?), and I recall working with those to be a bit of a PITA.

I may need to go back to the drawing board on how I've got that fan wired up. Here's hoping my Efan is sufficient to keep that 5.0 cool. It seems to be more than what the 3.0 needs, so I'm hoping I can keep it. If I wind up replacing it, I guess I'll donate it to a certain sonic blue Ranger owner. I think I'll look and see what 5.0 expo efan users are doing.

This is turning out to be quite the rabbit hole, but I won't let it discourage me. The planning of things is fun, I like it.

Payday is the 20th, so I'll be making an order on Rockauto. I've got some time off for the holidays, so I'm hoping the parts will arrive on time.



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 Posted: Mon Dec 16th, 2019 01:22 am
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Eddie Money
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Interstate battery by me will make whatever length cable and terminal you want. If theres one by you, that might add to your options...



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 Posted: Mon Dec 16th, 2019 08:20 am
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mhoward
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The Taurus efan that you have now is about as good as it gets. I still think you should go with the Volvo 850 relay controller setup like I have researched. Much cleaner installation than what you currently have. Just sayin'... :)



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Mon Dec 16th, 2019 09:34 am
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410customs

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You don't have to use a larger battery, the ranger battery tray wont hold the group 65, not easily. The 302 starts just fine with the smaller Ranger battery.

I purchased a hydraulic crimp tool for installing my own copper lugs on battery/ power wires. I love it! Now I can make my own cables any size and length I want and terminate myself with the proper copper lug. Something to consider.

Keep it up!! welcome to the wonderful world of truck conversions!



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 Posted: Mon Dec 16th, 2019 01:50 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911
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I'm not sure if we have an Interstate battery around here, actually. That kind of thing around here typically isn't cheap anyway, like the kind of pricing that would make you rather spend that on tools and be able to do it yourself for cheap afterwards. I'll think about that later. Thankfully that's a simple thing to actually install.

The volvo dual relay setup did cross my mind, actually. I'm thinking though that my best option is probably to just extend the wires and relocate the relay box I've got to the same spot I found it on the explorer I robbed it out of, just around the blower motor assembly. That way I can use what I already have and therefor don't have to buy more things.

The extra wires that aren't being used in that box will simply be unpinned. That's most of the mess right there, is those unused wires just sitting off to the side.

If the larger battery isn't necessary, I wonder why the explorer uses a larger one? I presume due to the extra things the explorer has that the ranger doesn't, giving it a larger capacity between starts, presumably.



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 Posted: Mon Dec 16th, 2019 02:37 pm
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mhoward
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We *DO* have an Interstate Battery location in Evansville. It is just off N. Burkhardt Rd on Interchange Rd. Easy to get to and you can call and ask about pricing before you drive there. :)



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So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Fri Dec 20th, 2019 03:10 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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Well, I just bit the bullet and dropped my paycheck off at Rockauto headquarters. I'll post as the parts get here.

Lucky for me, rockauto also has Ford friction modifier, so I got that there, too. Talk about one stop shopping!

Friction modifier, clutch packs, rear wheel bearings + seals, brake calipers, rotors, and pads oh my, two soft lines for the sides and one frame-to-rear end soft line, upper/lower control arms, tie rod ends, and rear bushing kit.

The shocks (Gabriel) I put on about 5 years ago. They should be just fine, still. I did consider going up a notch to something more premium, though. I may still do that later but, that'll be much later if at all.

Last edited on Fri Dec 20th, 2019 03:16 am by TheArcticWolf1911



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 Posted: Fri Dec 20th, 2019 05:19 am
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I read your doing a mustang rear disc swap. When I did mine i used all the mustang parts but I for the brake lines I used explorer brake lines. The hard line is bent perfectly for the axle and the hose going from the frame to the axle fits perfectly as do the expo hoses for the calipers.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 21st, 2019 06:46 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911
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Well, I made some progress today.

Early this morning, one of many packages came in. Rotors, calipers, and pads are now in my hands.

After running some errands, I came back and started disassembly. I removed the soft line (frame to rear end), which came apart easily, then gutted the rear brakes. The backing plates are still on at this point.

I'll take more of it apart when I get more things.

That said, I did have trouble getting the lines free from the wheel cylinders. I had to hit each side twice with the propane torch and quickly followed up with some PB blaster. That said, the lines didn't freeze to the nuts. The nuts themselves were solid inside the wheel cylinders.

Beyond that it came apart OK. I'll take the rest apart when I get the bearings, clutches, and lines, that will be when the rest comes apart. That said, I still need to get a new sawzall with a carbide blade, gear oil, and I'd like to swing that impact too.

I've got the bracket bolts soaking with some PB at the moment, although having been protected by the drums they shouldn't be too awful to get apart.

Nothing really to see as far as the rear end goes, at this point. I intend to degrease it and paint it black with Rustolem high performance enamel, and primer of course.

I don't know what is all over it, but brake clean doesn't touch it. I suspect it's a mix of brake fluid, gear oil, and hydraulic oil. I plan to clean it with gasoline first to get the oil off it, hit it with a very coarse wire brush on an angle grinder until I'm satisfied, then wash it with dawn and water.

I am interested to see how well that cover turns out. I might as well try to clean it up since I have it. I can always replace it.


Last edited on Sat Dec 21st, 2019 06:46 pm by TheArcticWolf1911



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 Posted: Sat Dec 21st, 2019 07:53 pm
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What cover did you end up going with



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 Posted: Sat Dec 21st, 2019 08:56 pm
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I haven't quite settled on anything yet. $150 for a cover is quite a bit when there's so many other, higher priority, parts to get. I can always change the cover later, as far as that goes.

For now I'm focusing on getting things up to snuff and strong, with "pretty" being later on. That's not to say many overs are only for show, but for my uses any advantage would be lost on my build, only because I don't plan on seriously taxing the drivetrain.

I figure I might as well try and get some of that pitting off the cover I already have and see what I get. If I don't like it, I'm leaning towards a chrome one or getting a nicer one off an explorer at the yard. We'll just see what happens for now.

Last edited on Sat Dec 21st, 2019 09:02 pm by TheArcticWolf1911



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 Posted: Sat Dec 21st, 2019 09:16 pm
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black06xlt
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Stay clear from the chrome covers they dont last and they leak



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 Posted: Sat Dec 21st, 2019 10:52 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911
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Thanks for the tip. The last thing I want is leaks.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 22nd, 2019 09:20 am
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mhoward
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When we were out at the U-pull last week, I looked at several later model expos. To get that aluminum finned cover would be a huge task, as those lugs on the cover are what holds the diff to the frame. Not much room to work, either.



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-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sun Dec 22nd, 2019 10:27 am
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410customs

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chrome covers only leak is the chrome is on the sealing part where the gasket goes.

Being on a budget myself I settled on a Poison Spider rock ring for my 8.8, still uses a stock metal 8.8 cover, but is protected from peeling open with the rock ring

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/rockring2.jpg


I did find this beauty for only $95 seems pretty good!
https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Differential-Girdle-Mustang/dp/B081GL19JS/ref=pd_sbs_263_t_0/134-1601053-2045421?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B081GL19JS&pd_rd_r=d674d36d-d782-4c08-9089-e7324f6a6450&pd_rd_w=OuOhd&pd_rd_wg=IfeyL&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=A8R6DYYD0T87N24TSAJ7&psc=1&refRID=A8R6DYYD0T87N24TSAJ7

Last edited on Sun Dec 22nd, 2019 10:28 am by 410customs



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 Posted: Sun Dec 22nd, 2019 10:44 am
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mhoward
Hey look ~ they ~ bounce!


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What's the "girdle" for, or what does it do?



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sun Dec 22nd, 2019 11:17 am
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410customs

Idahome


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the girdle provides an extra crossmember and support to the backside of the main carrier bearings....similar to a Ford 9" center section or Toyota diff, there is full support for the carrier bearings = beefy!! The cover itself acts as the crossmember you turn in the support screws until they make contact with the bearing caps = girdle
Ford SVO made the first one of these years ago, very popular amongst the mustang drag racing crowd and of course Jeep wheelers who need our axles to be worth a crap :)



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Ford-Rangers.com Ranger Forum > Tech Section > Member's Projects Showcase > 1999 Ranger "Gold Dust" - Part

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