410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - cu - Member's Projects Showcase - Tech Section

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Eddie Money
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"Added by Eddie, posted by 410customs"

Okay back on topic here I have good news! The dismantling phase is over!
On these 302 engines there are 4 bolts that go through the timing cover and into the engines water jacket. These 4 bolts are famous for being a PITA because they touch the coolant inside the engine the threads get quite corroded and they will snap off at timing cover or engine block when you try to remove them.

On our 104K donor engine here we were lucky, only one of the bolts broke.
So it is my job to extract the broken stud.

Over the years I have had to battle many of these both on the engine stand and sometimes in the truck, they can be a real nightmare.
Here is my method for extraction:

First CLEAN the area, clean all threads that are visible and all debris from the area, I use a wire brush
Then SOAK the bolt head and surrounding area with PB blaster, unicorn tears, or whatever lubricant you favor.
Next CLEAN the area again
Now its time for the blue wrench (Torch), the purpose here is to heat the bolt as much as possible without getting the engine block too hot

When the bolt gets really hot it will expand and hopefully break the bond the corrosion has on the threads.
Let it cool down! No point it trying to turn the bolt while it is expanded and hot (tighter in the hole)

Next we find a nut that kind of fits the remaining threads and using lots of heat with the mig welder, hopefully weld the nut to the exposed bolt bit
CLEAN the tip of the exposed stud, bare metal is what we are after here for a good weld

Smack the stud with a hammer to hopefully jarr any corroded bits off of the threads (break the seal)

Attempt 1, failed

Attempt 2, failed

The nut just twists right off, not enough heat in the weldto grab the broken stud., not enough room to get the tip of the mig welder in the hole.

So the next approach is to use a piece of flat stock with a hole drilled in it. CLEAN the area to be welded, baremetal. DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER
Many people do not realize when you clean metal partswith brake clean that are to be welded the brake cleaner can produce a toxic gas. So we use acetone or alcohol,even just soap and water.

I added a little bit of metal to the top of the broken stud, placed the flat stock over the broken stud and make a nice weld all the way around.
Let it cool! a little bit of cold water on the weld will only help you here.

That did it! The flat stock gave us the weld we needed and the leverage to get the stud turning. Work it back and forth slowly, more PB blaster
and finally....unthread the broken bit!

SUCCESS

Now the last bolt is out
The build up can begin..........

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Posted: Wed Sep 11th, 2019 09:46 pm

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Eddie Money
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"Added by Eddie, posted by 410customs"

Engine build up begins now!
First thefactory lifter spider is removed as well as the lifter keepers, followed by the lifters and the stock cam.
Keep everything properly numbered orientated, etc.

Now I will bring each cylinder piston to the top and using a valve spring compressor remove each spring, keeperand spring retainers. With the piston at the top the valves cannot fall into the engine

And now I get to CLEAN CLEAN the engine block, all mounting surfaces and parts.
As each part is installed onto the engine all threads and hardware will be chased with the proper tap or dye.

Finally we get to start installing new parts!!!

This COMP cam (XE264HR) is PERFECT for the explorer engine in a Ranger, the cam profile is emissions friendly while still making all of the torque down low and provides that nice throaty 302 cobra exhaust note we all know and love

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Posted: Wed Sep 11th, 2019 09:49 pm

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4.0power
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I'd curious how this motor would sound compared to mine (e303). I know it's the â€œwrongâ€ cam for a truck but hey it was 250 with brand new roller lifters so it is the right cam!

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Posted: Wed Sep 11th, 2019 10:11 pm

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Eddie Money
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4.0power wrote:
I'd curious how this motor would sound compared to mine (e303). I know it's the â€œwrongâ€ cam for a truck but hey it was 250 with brand new roller lifters so it is the right cam!
Heres one in a 01 ranger 5.0L

Last edited on Wed Sep 11th, 2019 10:13 pm by Eddie Money

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Posted: Wed Sep 11th, 2019 10:16 pm

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Eddie Money
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Posted: Wed Sep 11th, 2019 10:19 pm

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Eddie Money
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Posted: Thu Sep 12th, 2019 05:48 am

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4.0power
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Personally I like the e cam better simply because it reminds me of my 89 gt lol.

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Posted: Thu Sep 12th, 2019 09:00 am

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LOL
The E303 cam makes for a wicked good sounding exhaust that is for sure
Alot of it has to do with the rest of the setup also, intake, muffler, pipes.... The E cam leaves some to be desired with the 5.0 in a truck/explorer, this cam makes its power down lower which is what we are after here.
I cannot WAIT to hear it, trust me.
Engine is mostly dressed and will be placed under the hood very soon

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Posted: Thu Sep 12th, 2019 10:20 am

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JAMMAN

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I have never seen a cam chosen by the sound it makes.

Only 3 questions come to mind when choosing a cam

What RPM range do you want the power

Are you boosting or sucking

How long do you need it to last

Most of the other questions are sub questions of the 3 above.

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Posted: Thu Sep 12th, 2019 12:59 pm

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JAMMAN wrote:
I have never seen a cam chosen by the sound it makes.

Only 3 questions come to mind when choosing a cam

What RPM range do you want the power

Are you boosting or sucking

How long do you need it to last

Most of the other questions are sub questions of the 3 above.
I tend to do things a bit unconventional. I agree 100% it isn't the best cam for a truck but I'm not concerned about the little loss of low end power. And hey it was dirt cheap

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Posted: Fri Sep 13th, 2019 02:48 pm

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Eddie Money wrote:

This COMP cam (XE264HR) is PERFECT for the explorer engine in a Ranger, the cam profile is emissions friendly while still making all of the torque down low and provides that nice throaty 302 cobra exhaust note we all know and love
Agree. This is the exact cam that's sitting on the shelf waiting for the next iteration of my Ranger engine.

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Posted: Mon Sep 16th, 2019 11:05 pm

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Eddie Money
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"Added by Eddie, posted by 410customs"

OKAY here we go, been spending my spare time with the engine, working carefully and slowly I have sealed up many a 302 in my day.

I take everything I have learned, combine it with the best parts we can get and well.....let the pictures do the talking

factory next to comp cams valve springs:

How we got there, first install spring compressor then give the little stock spring cup a smack so the keepers come free of their bond to the spring cup

Lift the valve very carefully

Magnet to grab the valve locks

stock spring removed, access to the stock valve seals they pull off easily

ALL parts soak in unicorn tears before install

new PTFE valve seals come with a plastic install "condom" works well enough, by the time you do the 16th seal it is ready for the trash can. This protects the delicate seal as it passes over the valve stem and indent for the keepers

The new seal gets pressed on in two stages and very carefully by hand, I had to improvise since I did not have the "special tool"

fully seated

new bits in place + compressor

both heads done

Last edited on Mon Sep 16th, 2019 11:09 pm by Eddie Money

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Posted: Mon Sep 16th, 2019 11:15 pm

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Eddie Money
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"Added by Eddie, posted by 410customs"

Bring on the CAM!!

Only the BEST lubricants and sealants get used for engine assembly

time for lifters and lifter valley

USA!! USA!! (cheering)

Cyl #1 at TDC, line up the dots

Lifters in place, oiling holes face the center of the valley. Lifter retainers in place, lifter valley spider torqued down

Time to chase all threadsfor the LIM, thread SEALANT for the front two bolts

Last edited on Mon Sep 16th, 2019 11:41 pm by Eddie Money

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Posted: Mon Sep 16th, 2019 11:39 pm

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"Added by Eddie, posted by 410customs"

Surfaces cleaned and prepped, new Felpro blue in place with some permatex at the corners

Timing cover cleaned and prepped, new Fel pro front main seal installed with Anaerobic sealant

All timing cover and water pump bolts threads cleaned and chased

Oil pump checked, cleaned, pickup tube cleaned, new pickup gasket, pan cleaned and ready for install
LIM and TIMING cover in place

next install the headers, oil filter mount, balancer and a few other goodies then she is ready to drop in.

Last edited on Mon Sep 16th, 2019 11:41 pm by Eddie Money

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Posted: Mon Sep 16th, 2019 11:46 pm

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Eddie Money
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"Added by Eddie, posted by 410customs"

Get your Sunday morning eyes ready for some candy

Engine is ready to drop in. I will be measuring for the correct push rod length today
Then clean the trucks engine bay, clean the transmission, stab it to the engine then drop the whole she bang into the 07

The good stuff:

Header install bits

Autolite plugs gapped to 0.054" installed with copper anti seize on the threads then the headers go on.

Get your 3/8" wrench out, installing TMH is difficult, even on the engine stand.
There are 3-4 places where wrench to bolt clearance is very tight, you must be patient, tighten the header down a little at a time on each bolt. There are 3 places where I had to use the 6 sided bolts provided by Robert, there is no other way to fit the 12 point wrench on the bolt head.

Again each bolt and bolt hole is chased with a tap and dye, all parts cleaned thoroughly before painted/ installed

Each bolt gets a healthy dose of loctite, again provided by Robert (TMH).
I use Percy's or Mr Gasket soft stacked aluminum gaskets here they really seal up the TMH well, worth the extra $$$ (took me 3-4 attempts to seal them up on my BII back in 05)
Live and learn

The real Eddie Money (musician) just died last week, he was 70 (RIP)
Our Eddie Money (Ford Ranger enthusiast) is alive and well and he does not mind a "stock look" to his engine bay so no Seattle Seahawks themed engine here with tons of blue and green, just a classic good looking 302

I will add some custom touches as we go along, many of these parts look really nice in black satin.

Ordered 2001 Explorer flow matched set of bosch injectors from Ebay.
Have a 2001 5.0 fuel rail, pulse damper, and engine feed line sitting on the bench in front of me.
Removed the engine oil cooler and replaced with a 98-01 style filter mount
I will be using a late 97/98 PCM / sensors GT40p (external EGR) with the 01 (returnless) style fuel rail. the coolant and oil pressure sensors will come from the 07 engine.
The 98 transmission will get new shift solenoids, refreshed updated sonnax valve body (Thanks Brett!) it already has the updated internal hard wiring harness.
This is what I call a "REFRESHED" low mile 302 ready to motivate this Ranger for years to come.

Once the engine /trans are bolted down it is time to begin the wiring
Wiring the drivetrain, 4406e shift system, seats, keyless entry, stereo, camera's, etc will all happen together.
Plan is to integrate any new wiring into the factory 07 power distribution and body harness.

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Posted: Mon Sep 16th, 2019 11:57 pm

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Eddie Money
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Gorgeous!!! Good stuff. Love the shiny with the black. Definatly gonna need heat socks for the plugs

Last edited on Mon Sep 16th, 2019 11:59 pm by Eddie Money

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Posted: Tue Sep 17th, 2019 06:27 am

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4.0power
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Out of curiosity, would you guys have anything against me replacing the valve body in my 4r70w? 130k, fluid is bright red, smells good. Never did see it shift tho.. I'd like to do the j mod before it goes in the truck

Man that motor looks awesome in the satan black!

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Posted: Tue Sep 17th, 2019 08:55 am

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What year is your valve body from?

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Posted: Tue Sep 17th, 2019 09:42 am

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4.0power
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It's a 1996

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Posted: Sun Sep 22nd, 2019 03:27 pm

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Eddie Money
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"Added by Eddie, posted by 410customs"

Measured for pushrods
Prepped, cleaned the engine bay.
Ordered 6.300" 5/16' comp cams pushrod set of 16

So for hydraulic lifter GT40 heads with stock stamped steel rockers (1.6 ratio) and a performance camshaft you MUST measure for correct pushrod length
To do so you can order an adjustable pushrod from your fav speed shop / cam builder.
Comp cams sent me this checker, it worked out just fine.

Checking pushrod length with hydraulic roller lifters and pedestal mount style rockers,
You want to see two things:
1. Wear pattern is in the center of the valve stem tip
2. Wear pattern width is between .007 and .009 thousands of an inch (so 0.008 is perfect)

Basically with the stock rockers going back in I can already see where the wear pattern should be on the tip of each rocker arm is a worn shiny spot

The test:
- Using the stock pushrod, mount the pedestal rocker NEXT to the valve you are working on, this keeps the pedestal tray centered for your test
- Clean and lube the stock pushrod both ends, install into lifter bore.
- Mark the valve stem tip, dry erase marker, sharpie, I used some copper anti seize.
- Turn engine over (15/16 socket on crank bolt, clockwise) and make sure lifter in question is set on the base circle of the cam
- Install rocker arm and adjust by hand to zero lash
Zero lash means you can barely turn the pushrod anymore with your fingers.
- Now with torque wrench set to 18-20 ft lbs (19 ft lbs for me)
-Finally you want to make sure you reach your torque valve within 1/4-1 full turn of the rocker retainer bolt (torque wrench)
-Turn the engine over 2 full revolutions, your valve should open and close twice
-Remove rocker arm, check size and location of wear pattern

For me with the stock pushrod it took almost 2.5 turns of the torque wrench to reach 19 ft lbs, also the pattern was down low of center on the valve stem
The result is we need longer pushrods
Out comes the adjustable Comp cams unit adjusted until it was 6.3" long and put tape over the threads so it wont move during testing
Clean the valve stem and rocker arm, re apply marker on valve stem, lube the adjustable rocker arm and repeat the test

Guess what, perfect wear pattern, 0.008 wide and smack dab in the middle of the valve stem
Checked 3 more valves (2 on each bank)
Confirm I need 6.3" long pushrods, ordered from Amazon
Proper rocker arm geometry is ESSENTIAL to getting full performance from your engine (and making full manifold vacuum) Anytime you change heads, install a cam, etc you MUST MEASURE pushrod lenght!! every engine build is different.
(with that said most gt40 builds with a performance cam will result in stock length or on length longer being the perfect fit so 6.25 or 6.3")

Pics, stock pushrod 6.25"

I have my ways

As good as it gets with stamped rockers, dead solid perfect:

Last edited on Sun Sep 22nd, 2019 03:28 pm by Eddie Money

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Posted: Sun Sep 22nd, 2019 03:31 pm

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Eddie Money
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"Added by Eddie, posted by 410customs"

Next time you see this truck it will be a V8

Oh yeah and somebody around here cough cough may or may not have picked up another build a CLEAN 98 ex cab 4.0 4x4 had some "slight" gasket issues...the 4.0 had 3 gallons of coolant in it, it was wet up to the throttle body!!
Shes getting a 5.0 also

Last edited on Sun Sep 22nd, 2019 03:32 pm by Eddie Money

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Posted: Sun Sep 22nd, 2019 06:35 pm

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Man you crank the torsion bars all the way?? Hahaha

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Posted: Mon Sep 23rd, 2019 08:58 am

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Actually no, we have not cranked any of the t bars here...the blue truck was missing an engine so she was sitting up higher. On this truck I plan to remove the torsion bars completely.
On the black 98 truck she is sitting on a 3" body lift.
That may be what you are looking at?

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Posted: Mon Sep 23rd, 2019 09:41 am

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410customs wrote:
Actually no, we have not cranked any of the t bars here...the blue truck was missing an engine so she was sitting up higher. On this truck I plan to remove the torsion bars completely.
On the black 98 truck she is sitting on a 3" body lift.
That may be what you are looking at?
I figured you didn't touch them, just making a joke. Side note, I see no fuse/relay box in the truck, are you switching to motor bay over to the expo stuff?

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Posted: Mon Sep 23rd, 2019 10:01 am

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Yes the SJB or smart junction box is MIA in the pics, I have it all laid out on the shop floor

I stripped everything off the truck because there will be modifications to the instrument cluster, the dash, the steering column, the seats etc. Also this 07 has a door seal leak that had hte carpet all wet, so its best to get down to bare metal so we can rebuild it properly.

Right now I am on day 3 of wiring challenge. Researching all options when it comes to putting 98 PCM into a 07 can bus system........ There are SEVERAL options on the table at the moment
I have mapped out all of the 07 engine wiring and educated myself on the 07 Can Bus system.
Everyone who has gone before me that has posted details online (05+ Ranger 302 conversion) have cnoverted the truck backwards to accept the older OBD2 PCM and protocols.
I am looking at different paths as I would like to keep the 07 stuff....but this is quite complex. We are looking at a few options including using a 07+ 4.6 PCM to control the 5.0 and integrate with the 07 can bus system, piggyback the 98 pcm into the 07 and use can bus converter to make the 07 happy, or just use the stock 07 pcm and have it flashed with 5.0 engine controls.
Using all the wiring from a 96-01 donor MIGHT be the only option...........but before we cut any wires I am going to sort this out so stay tuned.
I do NOT want to give up the 07 CAN BUS system unless we absolutely have to. Make a list of pros and cons.

Here are some interesting facts:
A triton engine computer can run a 302, so a 4.6/5.4 PCM can be used to run a 302 or 351 if you know some tricks. Having the explorer ignition is a plus here

The 07 system uses a module communications network and the instrument cluster is one of the brains of the system. It may or may not be happy with the 96-01 PCM talking to it (chances are it would not be happy)
the 96-01 PCM's are PWM J1850 protocol and the o7 is Can Bus 11 bit. There are CAN BUS adapter that might be able to help us here make them talk to each other....

IN my eyes the SOHC engine and 5r55e that were in there are very similar to the 5.0 and 4r70w I am trying to put in.....but the computers from 98 and 07 are very very different.....

Stay tuned, I am tapping into some of the best brains in the business here.... not sure if it can be done yet, but I am making a list of pros and cons.

Pros for going backwards with the wiring:
I can put 98 ranger wiring in here in like 1.5-2 days including modifications to firewall for the wiring pass through.
Having the 98 explorer wiring in the truck makes it easier for me to add power locks/keyless entry, etc

Cons we would lose the 07 instrument cluster, restraints and airbag modules.

Last edited on Mon Sep 23rd, 2019 10:01 am by 410customs

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