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The white one       #: 1045
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX, Page:    1  2  3  4  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Wed Jul 11th, 2018 09:31 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Finally getting around to pulling the motor in the white one. This is Shane the super helper:





Man this thing looks a lot better in pictures than in person LOL



The cloud on the windshield is freon and oil. There was a mild misunderstanding on what to do with the AC pump and Shane took a fitting off the back of the pump, it spewed in his face. Had not evacuated it yet. Right behind where Shane is standing is the AC service cart with the right stuff to empty it. Sorry Shane and Mr. Ozone.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 11th, 2018 10:43 pm
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black06xlt
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 Truck looks good



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 Posted: Wed Jul 11th, 2018 10:58 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Can't get the back doors to open, front bumper is rusting through, frame rusty but all on the outside I hit it with a hammer in a few spots it isn't soft.

It does look decent and doesn't have rust on the body parts and doesn't have many dents at all, less than my DD green.

It also has the LS rear end (3.73) and the large size trailer hitch. I guess it isn't that bad but for the work I'm putting in to it I'll break even when I sell it. Half considering driving it for the winter and garaging my green one. Keeping the salt off of greenie would be priceless.

The frame is in such good shape on my green one I think it is from another state. It still has the original shackles, and they do not need replaced. Must preserve it.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 11th, 2018 11:08 pm
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black06xlt
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 The white one looks like a keeper. The rear doors are easy to get open. I'll try to snag door latches when we get another ranger in



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 Posted: Thu Jul 12th, 2018 09:47 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Worked on it a while today, every bolt on this thing is a turd.

Finally got all 4 nuts off the motor mounts, 3 out of 4 exhaust bolts are torched, and one bolt is out of the starter. About as far as I got besides an array of hoses and cables.



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 Posted: Thu Jul 12th, 2018 09:49 pm
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black06xlt
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 Inching closer



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 Posted: Thu Jul 12th, 2018 10:01 pm
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JAMMAN

Owns A Torsen


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 I bet you could have had it out by now LOL. It's your profession.



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 Posted: Thu Jul 12th, 2018 10:30 pm
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black06xlt
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 I dont pull the eninge out the top I drop them out the bottom. I cut the frame behind the body mounts on the radiator support and in front off the cab mounts and cut the transmission crossmember along with the torsion bars and raise the truck up leaving the engine transmission and front suspension on the ground. Typically takes me about 3 hours to completely dismantle a ranger. 2.5 hours if its 2wd



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 Posted: Tue Jul 17th, 2018 09:03 pm
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JAMMAN

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 black06xlt wrote:
I cut the frame behind the body mounts on the radiator support and in front off the cab mounts and cut the transmission crossmember along with the torsion bars
Not an option LOL

Anyhow, I have made a promise to myself tonight.

I am NEVER AGAIN going to work this hard on something that I don't plan on keeping. This is insane, I have been working on cars and trucks on and off since I was 15, professionally for about a year and I have NEVER SEEN anything this bound up. I worked for 2 hours tonight and only got the starter out. I tried the 2 easiest bolts on the bell housing and they will not budge. Impact, 1/2 breaker bar with pipe.... nothing. They will not move, I will have to cut them with a cutoff wheel.
What am I going to do for the top ones? I tried everything but heat, I tried hammering them in, I tried back and forth. I tried boxed end wrench with pipe, THESE THINGS ARE TRULY CEASED.

So is that last exhaust bolt, driver side toward motor. I can get a socket on it but no use. I can't get to it with a torch and see anything. I can't get to it with a saw. I tried just breaking it off with a 1/2" breaker bar and a pipe... NO LUCK.

Shane is staying with me again tomorrow night. If we can't get the bell housing bolts off I'm yanking the trans with the motor. I can get to it with just a socket and impact out of the truck. The extensions are limiting the torque.



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 Posted: Tue Jul 17th, 2018 09:34 pm
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black06xlt
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 Jim I'll gladly trade you projects.... I'll swap the engines you do the stereo in my Explorer.



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 Posted: Tue Jul 17th, 2018 10:10 pm
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Tsquare
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 Bigger breaker bar.



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 Posted: Tue Jul 17th, 2018 11:56 pm
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JAMMAN

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 I'm going to pull it to the lift tomorrow and borrow the beast from my friend Larry. It's a 25 year old mac 1/2 drive air impact that for some reason is able to bring off nuts and bolts that the guys with new snap-ons can't. I think it isn't as much the raw torque as the insane hammer action.

Like I said I can cut the bottom and side bolts but probably not the tops so I'm going for them first. If they don't come off then I'm pulling the entire assembly.

The torque converter nuts are in plain sight and look easy to get to, at least one thing went right.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 18th, 2018 11:43 am
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squirrelhunter
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 JAMMAN wrote:
I'm going to pull it to the lift tomorrow and borrow the beast from my friend Larry. It's a 25 year old mac 1/2 drive air impact that for some reason is able to bring off nuts and bolts that the guys with new snap-ons can't. I think it isn't as much the raw torque as the insane hammer action.

Like I said I can cut the bottom and side bolts but probably not the tops so I'm going for them first. If they don't come off then I'm pulling the entire assembly.

The torque converter nuts are in plain sight and look easy to get to, at least one thing went right.
I prefer pulling the transmission and engine together,it seems easier to me.
I use a 1/2" drive impact a lot,it's gotten bolts out countless times that I couldn't budge by hand using a breaker bar.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 18th, 2018 09:36 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Well the beast brought one out, the other went from 6 point to round so we will have to cut it off. There are 4 bolts left on this entire project. We burned through the last exhaust bolt found the right angle after catching some insulation on the firewall... on fire. Small smoldering nothing a Styrofoam cup filled with water couldn't cure.
The 4 TC nuts were easy.

I can't work on it tomorrow but friday I will AND I have all next week wife doesn't work all week I can stay after.



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 Posted: Thu Jul 19th, 2018 03:41 pm
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black06xlt
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This is how I remove an engine from a Ranger. Completely dismantled 2 hours 35 minutes



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 Posted: Fri Aug 17th, 2018 07:09 pm
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JAMMAN

Owns A Torsen


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 Bought this,might try it this weekend. On 410's recommendation... a 36" extension. 1/2 drive impact with 3/8 swivel built in other end.




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 Posted: Sat Aug 18th, 2018 08:13 pm
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1qaz
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 Three feet and a swivel...damn!
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 Posted: Tue Aug 21st, 2018 09:04 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Well I twisted it about 1/3 of a turn and the screw will not move. I'm about ready to give up this is ridiculous. It was easier to pull the V8 from the mountaineer than this thing is.

I'm going to put it on a lift so I can twist it till it breaks LOL. I have never in my life encountered such stuck bolts. Smaller ones yes or stainless in aluminum but this is steel in steel and a respectable diameter.

I can't get the rear doors open at the bottom either. Been soaking in brute blast for days. I took the shell off the inside, it is almost like they welded that plate on after they put the latch in. I can't seem to get to anything with a screwdriver.

The thing is this truck looks good. Been re painted but I have had daily drivers in worse shape. Interior light gray, bucket seats, shorty console, electric accessories, and a LS rear end @ 3.73.

If I can't get the bolts out I'll have to pull the tranny with it which means I'll break the transmission lines and have to run new. This is turning in to a "work pit" and I just bought it to sell. AAARRRRGGGGHHHHHH



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 Posted: Tue Aug 21st, 2018 09:08 pm
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black06xlt
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 Put it on a lift so you can get more leverage



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 Posted: Tue Aug 21st, 2018 09:41 pm
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Eddie Money
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 JAMMAN wrote:
Well I twisted it about 1/3 of a turn and the screw will not move. I'm about ready to give up this is ridiculous. It was easier to pull the V8 from the mountaineer than this thing is.

I'm going to put it on a lift so I can twist it till it breaks LOL. I have never in my life encountered such stuck bolts. Smaller ones yes or stainless in aluminum but this is steel in steel and a respectable diameter.

I can't get the rear doors open at the bottom either. Been soaking in brute blast for days. I took the shell off the inside, it is almost like they welded that plate on after they put the latch in. I can't seem to get to anything with a screwdriver.

The thing is this truck looks good. Been re painted but I have had daily drivers in worse shape. Interior light gray, bucket seats, shorty console, electric accessories, and a LS rear end @ 3.73.

If I can't get the bolts out I'll have to pull the tranny with it which means I'll break the transmission lines and have to run new. This is turning in to a "work pit" and I just bought it to sell. AAARRRRGGGGHHHHHH
Seems like the last owner had the right idea when he sold it. Lol. 

They call him flipper, flipper.....

I feel your pain. To bad you're already committed.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 21st, 2018 10:16 pm
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JAMMAN

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 I feel like I should be committed for buying this thing.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 21st, 2018 10:23 pm
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Eddie Money
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 JAMMAN wrote:
I feel like I should be committed for buying this thing.
Lol. You will blaze throu dis, jus stay irie and every ting turn out wicked JAMMAN.



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 Posted: Thu Aug 23rd, 2018 08:34 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Another episode :)

The 2 bolts on the top of the transmission? The absolute easiest to get out of the bunch. I was dreading them and they were easy.

I should buy 410 a case of beer for his 36" extension suggestion. Still took 2 people but just one to guide the socket to the proper destination.

Motor STILL ISN'T OUT!!!

The one transmission bold ON THE BOTTOM I said was stripped? Well we took a cutoff wheel to it and brought the head off.

Now it seems like the shank is frozen in the transmission. We tried beating, heating, it's like a 1" long dowel pin press fit in to the bell housing.

You should see the corrosion on the ones that did come out.

SOOO it is all loose except for that, I'm slicing it right behind the bell housing with the cutoff wheel next episode. I'll still be able to put a screw in it there will be a 1/8" gap between the bolt hole and the new motor oh well at least there will be a bolt in there. Yes I tried a little heat and pounding and oil and a 3 foot pry bar and a screwdriver.

Hey didn't try a chisel between the motor and transmission maybe that.

Anyhow we had the motor off the mounts shaking it around, everything moves except that headless bolt.

The fact that most the low stuff is corroded or rusted excessively and the upper stuff is just fine leads me to believe they drove it through water during 4 wheeling or it was in a flood. No evidence inside or above the frame.

I have pulled a dozen or so motors and a few transmissions and have never seen one this bad.

Found out the right rear drum is locked up too. I soaked it in brute blast and smacked it around with a sledge a little hoping is soaks in to freedom.

Sad thing is as nice as this thing looks by the time I get done with it I might get 2K max out of it. Might have to drive it for a year to recoup some.



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 Posted: Thu Aug 23rd, 2018 08:57 pm
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black06xlt
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 I wouldnt advise a chisel between the bell housing and block the result is usually a broken bell housing. Being how you said the bolt is on the bottom pie cut the bottom of the bolt hole that should freeit up put the bolt back in it wont hurt that you cut less then half of the hole away with all the other bolts in it



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 Posted: Thu Aug 23rd, 2018 09:20 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Mmmmm pie cut. Good idea.



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