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93 Ranger 4.0 ohv slight vibration at 21 #: 1567

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Posted: Wed Apr 3rd, 2019 11:29 am

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Vincenthdfan
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Hello all,
I havent been on here in a while since getting my 93 4.0 XLT back together. I've been out enjoying it..man it sure drives nice and pulls hard with the 5 speed conversion and 97 4.0 engine I installed.

However, I noticed the other day when running down the freeway above 65 mph and at 2100 rpm, there is a buzzy/imbalanced feeling coming from the engine.

Its not in the drive train, its definitely from the engine...it never did this with the original 93 engine installed.

Then, when I accelerate to 2500 rpms I can hear a pronounced rattling sound, almost like a detonation sound, reminds me of when you hear valve float coming from an over revved engine?

Again, it never did this with the original engine so its puzzling?

This engine is in very good condition, has around 125,000 miles on it and it runs really well except in these rpm ranges?

I do feel a slight tremble at idle too, not real bad, but certainly not as buttery smooth as you would expect from an engine with new plugs & wires installed?

I'm wondering if it could possibly be a fuel injector causing a lean condition in one of the cylinders...thoughts??

Last edited on Wed Apr 3rd, 2019 11:41 am by Vincenthdfan

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Posted: Wed Apr 3rd, 2019 02:06 pm

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black06xlt
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Very good possibility on a bad injector. Pull the plugs to see how they are firing. One plug could be soaked with gas. Pull the dip stick and smell the oil. A gas smell in the oil is a good sing on an injector stuck open

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Posted: Fri Apr 5th, 2019 10:53 am

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JAMMAN

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I'm imagining you used the injectors and ECU from the 97? And the intake, throttle body?

I would do a running check on fuel pressure at the rail especially if you used the fuel pump and filter from the 93.

I'm doing that next week if weather permits on my single cab, I bought a schrader valve adapter to 1/8 NPT female adapter and will be using an electronic gauge but you could use a regular gauge if you are brave and don't mind a fuel line running into the cab just for testing.

Good injectors can appear bad if not fed properly. The weakest injector will start messing up first.

My DD is pinging now at acceleration, it is a 4.0 OHV. Haven't even started to diagnose that LOL.

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Posted: Fri Apr 5th, 2019 12:43 pm

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Vincenthdfan
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JAMMAN wrote:
I'm imagining you used the injectors and ECU from the 97? And the intake, throttle body?

I would do a running check on fuel pressure at the rail especially if you used the fuel pump and filter from the 93.

I'm doing that next week if weather permits on my single cab, I bought a schrader valve adapter to 1/8 NPT female adapter and will be using an electronic gauge but you could use a regular gauge if you are brave and don't mind a fuel line running into the cab just for testing.

Good injectors can appear bad if not fed properly. The weakest injector will start messing up first.

My DD is pinging now at acceleration, it is a 4.0 OHV. Haven't even started to diagnose that LOL.
Yes, I used all the fuel system components that came with the 97 engine, especially since they were all lower mileage and appeared to be in good condition.

You know though, I was considering doing just the exact thing you mentioned with the fuel pressure test.

Reason being, the more I've been thinking about it...the truck has always died when coming to a sudden stop anytime its below 1/4 of a tank....with out fail it will do it. It did this with the original motor too.

Pulling the bed and changing out the pump and pick up screen is just one of the last things I hadn't gotten around to yet (I have however, changed the in-line fuel filter recently)...been so busy working out other bugs first!

I was thinking maybe when I'm getting into that high demand fuel load, the pump isn't able to keep up, thus causing the possible lean condition I'm experiencing around 2500 rpm? (Not sure about the 2100 vibe though?)

I suppose the 2100 rpm vibe could be the beginning feeling of an imbalance in the injectors just starting to show up due to insufficient fuel supply?

Hmmmm.....

Thoughts?

Last edited on Fri Apr 5th, 2019 12:46 pm by Vincenthdfan

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Posted: Fri Apr 5th, 2019 01:57 pm

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black06xlt
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Keep in mind you may have good fuel pressure at the rails but you may have enough volume. Lack of volume could be 3 things 1. A weak pump 2. Restriction in the lines plugged filter or pinched line 3. Bad or weak pressure regulator

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Posted: Fri Apr 5th, 2019 08:25 pm

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Vincenthdfan
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I just went out and did some more high speed freeway driving with the truck.

The buzziness is only at light throttle applications, around 2100 rpm through 2300ish rpms.

I can get the engine to rattle by driving along slowly in second gear and getting engine up to 2500 rpm...at sustained 2500 rpm = rattle sound.

I can duplicate it in the driveway too by lightly applying the throttle up it'll briefly rattle, then I idle it back down...lightly re-apply throttle, it'll repeat a light rattle sound but only briefly during light throttle up application??

I'm stumped

Last edited on Fri Apr 5th, 2019 08:26 pm by Vincenthdfan

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Posted: Sat Apr 6th, 2019 10:27 am

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410customs

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where is the rattle sound coming from? If you can duplicate it in the driveway you should be able to determine if it is coming from the exhaust, clutch, oil pan area, or valve cover area
With clutches sometimes things can come loose and cause a rattling sound (think broken spring in pressure plate, or throw out bearing locking tabs broken on the slave cylinder).
I have also seen a socket dropped into the downpipe during an engine swap that caused a great deal of noise at certain RPM....had to drop the exhaust to get the socket out.
I have had cat converter catalyst come loose inside the cat, causing all sorts of strange power issues and rattles, so the first thing to do is try to pin point the noise location.
You just had the engine and transmission out, so check your work!
Is the scatter shield in place properly? all bolts tight? have a good look around with lots of light and a small pry bar :)

Did you install a new clutch?
I think you guys may be onto something with the fuel pump, a pressure test will help.
Do you have an OBD2 scanner? Something that can watch things as you drive?
How much have you driven it since the conversion?
pulling spark plugs carefully and inspecting them can tell you alot!! If one looks diff then the others, or is wet with fuel, well it helps show you where to look

Last edited on Sat Apr 6th, 2019 10:33 am by 410customs

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Posted: Sat Apr 6th, 2019 11:43 am

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Vincenthdfan
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410customs wrote:
where is the rattle sound coming from? If you can duplicate it in the driveway you should be able to determine if it is coming from the exhaust, clutch, oil pan area, or valve cover area
With clutches sometimes things can come loose and cause a rattling sound (think broken spring in pressure plate, or throw out bearing locking tabs broken on the slave cylinder).
I have also seen a socket dropped into the downpipe during an engine swap that caused a great deal of noise at certain RPM....had to drop the exhaust to get the socket out.
I have had cat converter catalyst come loose inside the cat, causing all sorts of strange power issues and rattles, so the first thing to do is try to pin point the noise location.
You just had the engine and transmission out, so check your work!
Is the scatter shield in place properly? all bolts tight? have a good look around with lots of light and a small pry bar :)

Did you install a new clutch?
I think you guys may be onto something with the fuel pump, a pressure test will help.
Do you have an OBD2 scanner? Something that can watch things as you drive?
How much have you driven it since the conversion?
pulling spark plugs carefully and inspecting them can tell you alot!! If one looks diff then the others, or is wet with fuel, well it helps show you where to look
Yep, new clutch and all associated hardware installed.

Been driving it quite a bit, my wife more than me...she loves driving it.

It sounds very much like detonation to me, thus the reason its hard to stay in the rattle noise zone...you can get in and out of it by feathering throttle.

Thats why I keep thinking it may be lean fuel related?

I definitely need to do a plug check next to see what all the new plugs look like.

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Converted it to 5 Speed and Manual Transfer Case!

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Posted: Sat Apr 6th, 2019 12:19 pm

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410customs

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Tell us about your swap
93 ranger with 97 OHV and 5 speed? what wiring, metal or plastic intakes, etc
I love 93, very good year for the 4.0 no EGR, no Cam synchro and y better power dist box then the 90-92 trucks
Using the 97 computer, full obd2 conversion?

A fuel rail pressure test is needed, watch it closely when the "noise" or detonation occurs. I ike to see 36-42 psi on the return style rail, if it drops to 32 or 28 when you blurp the throttle (during detonation) then you found your issue. Check the fuel pressure regulator line for fuel, and do a simple vacuum test on the FPR. After that its time to raise the bed and replace the pump.

I like that you say it sounds like detonation, a lean condition. That noise is easy to decipher once you know it so it is likely time for a fuel pump.
Usually I do a fresh fuel pump whenever I do a new/refreshed engine especially if you have never been in there. If the truck sat for any length of time while waiting for the new heart......replace the pump. Fuel pumps do not like to sit
Bosch or Walbro pumps are the only brands I will install in my own trucks. We have had excellent luck with the new bosch blue replacement pumps (rockauto). If your fuel gauge works properly then just plan to replace the pump, strainer and filter (yes again) always do a new filter at same time as pump.

If you used the 93 fuel rail on the 97 engine or had the intakes off, fuel rail off you should also bench test and clean the injectors and install all new O rings....I also do this with every engine swap.

I have been through it all over the years!!

Last edited on Sat Apr 6th, 2019 12:33 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Sat Apr 6th, 2019 02:18 pm

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Vincenthdfan
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Location: Olympia, Washington USA

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410customs wrote:
Tell us about your swap
93 ranger with 97 OHV and 5 speed? what wiring, metal or plastic intakes, etc
I love 93, very good year for the 4.0 no EGR, no Cam synchro and y better power dist box then the 90-92 trucks
Using the 97 computer, full obd2 conversion?

A fuel rail pressure test is needed, watch it closely when the "noise" or detonation occurs. I ike to see 36-42 psi on the return style rail, if it drops to 32 or 28 when you blurp the throttle (during detonation) then you found your issue. Check the fuel pressure regulator line for fuel, and do a simple vacuum test on the FPR. After that its time to raise the bed and replace the pump.

I like that you say it sounds like detonation, a lean condition. That noise is easy to decipher once you know it so it is likely time for a fuel pump.
Usually I do a fresh fuel pump whenever I do a new/refreshed engine especially if you have never been in there. If the truck sat for any length of time while waiting for the new heart......replace the pump. Fuel pumps do not like to sit
Bosch or Walbro pumps are the only brands I will install in my own trucks. We have had excellent luck with the new bosch blue replacement pumps (rockauto). If your fuel gauge works properly then just plan to replace the pump, strainer and filter (yes again) always do a new filter at same time as pump.

If you used the 93 fuel rail on the 97 engine or had the intakes off, fuel rail off you should also bench test and clean the injectors and install all new O rings....I also do this with every engine swap.

I have been through it all over the years!!
I used the 97 fuel rail & injectors, 93 aluminum intake, 93 computer and associated original 93 wiring, 97 exhaust manifolds (EGR capped).

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Converted it to 5 Speed and Manual Transfer Case!

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410customs

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Posted: Sat Apr 6th, 2019 03:41 pm

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410customs

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Excellent! That is a very nice swap :) The pushrod 4.0 with the 5 speed is perfect in the Ranger!! Using the later model engine and trans gives you a ton of advantages over the earlier 93 stuff.

Do the fuel pressure test and let us know what you find.
You can rent a pressure gauge from auto parts stores, or just buy one :)

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Vincenthdfan

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