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PBR and auto detailing       #: 2228
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 Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2020 02:12 pm
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Eddie Money
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I'm working on a medium sized repair with 2 stage in rattle cans... I know. 

I'm working outdoors and I couldnt get the proper angle so I have some heavy orange peel and a few drops from paint building up on the lip of the can. 

I have a 6" DA, a cordless orbital, and a angle grinder. I'm learning as I go but I believe I can sand down the drip drops and polish the peel away.

I'm looking for advice on which pads to order and which compounds to use and recommendations on who to order from.

A 6inch denim pad has suggested to start.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 23rd, 2020 09:52 am
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mhoward
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Just saw this (may be too late to help).  Since I can't see what you have, I would suggest doing a wet sand to eliminate the drips and orange peel, then hit it with a light recoat.  Once cured, polish it.  I'm old school (was a body & paint guy in the 1970s).  I believe in wool bonnets for polishing paint.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 23rd, 2020 10:48 am
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410customs

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I'm not a paint guy, if its smooth and shiny I will destroy it. 
show us the pics! You are doing great! We need pictures to feed us



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 Posted: Tue Aug 25th, 2020 08:47 pm
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Eddie Money
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410customs wrote:
I'm not a paint guy, if its smooth and shiny I will destroy it. 
show us the pics! You are doing great! We need pictures to feed us

Lol. I'm holding off on photos till I'm done. As usual I forgot to take the before picture. I also applied the filler before I took a photo as well. 

My neph works the graveyard shift so the only time we have to work on this together is a few hours in the morning on the weekends.

I almost had it done last weekend. I sanded the drops and scuffed the roof and wanted to put one more coat of the black base coat then apply the clear coat. But.... the same thing happened. The spray can lid was releasing paint under the cap and as I made my last pass across the cab it let loose with a bunch of drips.... ugh!!!😡. 

This coming weekend I am sanding and masking off Saturday. I'm done with the base coat so I can apply the clear first thing sunday morning when it's not as hot or windy. I'll post the pics after...



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 Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2020 08:26 am
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Eddie, what kind of paint gun are you using?  Is it the old school siphon type (cup on the bottom) or an HVLP (cup on the top)?



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 Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2020 10:47 am
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Looking good!!! (teaser)



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 Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2020 12:40 pm
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I can't read this thread without thinking:




And I don't drink.



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 Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2020 01:49 pm
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mhoward
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JAMMAN wrote:
I can't read this thread without thinking:




And I don't drink.

LOL  I haven't asked what PBR stands for (in this context) as I was afraid I would be seeing you guys all posting beer cans!



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 Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2020 08:39 pm
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mhoward wrote:
Eddie, what kind of paint gun are you using?  Is it the old school siphon type (cup on the bottom) or an HVLP (cup on the top)?


I'm using this kind. Lol. I havent had enough practice to commit to a gun and compressor. 


The problem was one of the cans leaked under the red cap and on my last pass it emptied. I had a paper towel to dab the rim of the can but this was much worse than a little paint collecting on the lip of the can.

PBR= paint an body repair

Last edited on Thu Aug 27th, 2020 08:40 pm by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2020 09:27 pm
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Aha!  I have a lot of paint guns like that one! LOL  Yeah, sometimes the nozzles don't work right.  SOMETIMEs, your finger hangs over the nozzle too much and causes the spray to accumulate where it shouldn't.  Make sure your fingertip isn't the color of the paint! :-)



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 Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2020 09:33 pm
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Eddie Money
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I found after the first time that a paint stick and some 1000 grit wet sanding paper works well to smooth out the drips.

I was going to spray it with clear the last time but I decided to give it one more fresh coat of black and then it happened again. 

This weekend once its smooth im going to spray it with clear. If I have any issues with the clear I can just buff n polish😊



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 Posted: Fri Aug 28th, 2020 07:50 am
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You mentioned you haven't had enough practice to commit to a spray gun & compressor.  Be advised they are two completely different approaches.  You can buy an HVLP spray gun at Harbor Freight for $10 and funny thing is; it really a pretty good gun.  I bought one and used it to paint the doors on my metal storage shed and they came out great.  Would it hold up in a professional body shop? Not a chance, but for guys like us, it is a great gun for what we do.  That said, even a first-timer can lay down paint better than with a spray can.



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 Posted: Fri Aug 28th, 2020 11:06 am
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410customs

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GREAT THREAD
Show them the pics!! We wont judge :)

SOB I was thinking BEER AND BODYWORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHA
I figured to get up the courage to pain that sucker required some PBR's
oh man Im still laughing



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 Posted: Sat Aug 29th, 2020 11:37 am
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mhoward wrote:
 You can buy an HVLP spray gun at Harbor Freight for $10 and funny thing is; it really a pretty good gun. 
I have been looking at them. I did see a $10 HVLP but I did see a $15 one. I am leaning more towards the $29 HVLP because of the regulator.

All I have right now is a no-name 6oz touch up siphon fed that was in a tool box I bought at an auction.



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 Posted: Sat Aug 29th, 2020 12:49 pm
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The one with the regulator would, of course, be your best bet.  I bought the $10 one to spray latex house paint.  I really didn't expect much out a $10 gun, but TBH, I was amazed at how good it is.  Not comparable to my $400 Binks gun I had when I had a body shop.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 30th, 2020 06:12 pm
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Eddie Money
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When we purchased this truck the salesman raved about how cool it was that he had just recleared the truck rather than repainted it cause it was less expensive. I hopped in the bed and looked at the roof. Apparently they figured no one would look up there. It had deep scratches and chips and had not been re cleared. Unfortunately I forgot to take a pic.

I ordered the factory color in a spray can and bought some glossy clear coat. I bought an orbital and an assortment of sandpaper in a range of grades for my orbital, DA buffer, and some wet dry for blocking. I also bought some quick dry filler and a bunch of primers, sandable, filler, and high fill for any deep spots in a couple colors.

My nephew and I started by covering the truck and feathering the chips and scratches.

Ranger brain surgery...






After we sanded it all we feathered the edges 




Incase you're wondering why we didnt take it all down to the metal, we were trying to keep it as small as possible. Lol. I have no idea what I'm doing. I watched a guy on youtube and figured I could do that.....„


Then applied the quick drying filler and sanded the roof smooth.








 We only have a few hours each weekend because the nephew works a graveyard shift so hit it with primer and sealed that with some rustoleum flat black I had leftover to keep the primer on.






This is the following weekend. It didn't look too bad for how windy it was and how narrow a fan I applied that with but it was just to cover the primer. 

I sanded again and hit it with another coat of primer.







This was the final dab of filler and primer. 

I washed it, degreased it, masked off and used a tack cloth to remove any dust, lint and cat hair. Lol. 

With a deep breath and inspiration from velociRangers hood project I began the first coat.






At this point it was too windy and we ran out of paint. 

I ordered more paint and fortunately it arrived just in time. I scuffed the coat from the previous weekend and applied 2 more coats. Towards the end of the second coat I started a new can and that can dripped. We called it for this weekend and planned to let the paint cure for a week so I could fix the drops and apply clear coat.





It didnt turn out too bad given the circumstances. After I smoothed out the drops using a paint stick wrapped in 1000 grit wet/dry and scuffed the rest I was going to just spray it with clear coat but something made me want to do one more coat of black before the clear. That's when I grabbed the same defective can and made the same mistake and laid another coat of drips. Ugh....so I waited another week for that to cure and fix.

So here we are this weekend after I wet sanded again only this time I'm sticking with the plan and only spraying the clear coat.






The 2 pics above are wet.



This is dry scuffed and ready to mask off.











Masked off and ready for the clear coat!!





Then ofcourse it had to rain. It had 10 dry hours so fingers crossed🤞
I know I'll need to buff n polish the orange peel. 

Hopefully one of our members who previously owned a body shop will help me figure out what compounds to order and which pads with which compounds to use on the new pads I ordered... (Mhoward)

Last edited on Mon Aug 31st, 2020 12:28 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2020 12:54 am
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Heck yeah!! It looks good so far. Glad I can be some motivation :thumbsup:    Now I've gotta redo my hood, you've now inspired me. What about your emblems? Did you ever finish those?



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 Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2020 08:16 am
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@Eddie: You're doing great, my friend!  I've never used a foam polishing/buffing pad as those didn't exist when I had my shop (mid 1970s).  Looking at the final pic, I would LIGHTLY wet sand the clear with 2000 grit and buff it with regular rubbing compound (I use Turtle Wax brand; comes in a small can that works well).  TW also makes a POLISHING compound that is a finer abrasive than the rubbing compound, if you want to take it a step further, but don't get carried away and rub through the clear!

BTW, that is a really sweet truck! :-)



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 Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2020 10:28 am
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410customs

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awesome!!! The pics I can see way better then on my phone. You guys are doing a heck of a job, that is one nice Ranger....drool drool
If you want the roof to come out even better have the nephew consider ditching the orange socks!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL KIDDING!!!!!!!



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 Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2020 10:35 am
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Orange socks??



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 Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2020 01:11 pm
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410customs

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"Danielson, OPEN EYE"


Just pokin fun, these two dudes are awesome friends of mine so its okay to joke around :)



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 Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2020 01:14 pm
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mhoward
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Ah... I saw the WHITE socks in the reflection of the back window.  Was thinking maybe I really WAS color blind! LMAO

#WaxOnWaxOff



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The darker the color the less forgiving it is.  It's looking good.

I like gray's and blue-green's.  You can have a run and it will blend in.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2020 10:10 pm
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I ordered these. If this is the wrong stuff let me know. You can read the details by clicking the link below

https://www.chemicalguys.com/v-line-polish-and-compound-kit-for-light-to-heavy-swirls-and-scratches/v-line-polish-compound.html




Here is the orange peel. More like a football skin....


Thumb is for scale



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 Posted: Tue Sep 1st, 2020 07:46 am
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I'm assuming the orange peel is just in the clearcoat, so I would wet sand (with a block) using 2000 grit to take it down some, then follow up with your compounds.  Those polishes/compounds you purchased sound like they will do the trick (a bit pricey, though).



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