Scrambler82
Old Bastard !
Joined: Fri Dec 22nd, 2017
Posts: 2108
Name: Grev B ... Occupation: Quality Assurance Engineer ... Interests: Rangers, Photography, Metal Bending ...
Reputation Points: 2108
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Chewy_719 wrote:
Thanks, I will keep that in mind. Do you think it would be a good idea to add another fuse box with relays?
Any high amperage draw component need at least a separate power line, with a fuse and a relay. The fuse should be as close to the power source as possible and all component need to be rated for 125% of the total current draw, i.e. wire, fuse and relay ! LED Lighting changes thing a little but the idea and theory is still the same.
To answer your question, "No to a fuse box with relays".
The problem with a Panel with fuses and relays, although a nice item to have for smaller components, is the total amperage draw is not always up where you need it and then it is divided between all of the circuits in the Panel.
Some of the panels are rated for 30 or 40 amps total, and in your case, the first 30amps are taken by the lights, that leaves 10 amp excess to work for other components, not a lot left over.
IMHO... it would be overall safer to run your two KC Lights with a separate harness and save the Fuse/Relay Panel for smaller components, just watch the total amperage.
The Fuse/Relay Panel: Although at this time you only have one big amperage circuit, the KC Lights, it is best to look a little ahead. What if... you wanted another set of KC Day Lighters, (30 amps more), What IF... you wanted to add power seats... (at least 20 amps), or the backup lights, you can overpower a Fuse/Relay Panel quickly unless you pay the price, $$$, upfront and buy a really good one.
OR... you can just add your own harnesses with fuses and really, easier to do than talk about, you can build any rating in a harness that you need, subject to your electrical charging system and the overall condition of your battery and other components.
Where I am going..., if not clear, it is for you to build your own harnesses, in fact over build because the cost is minor when you do it yourself. The biggest gain other than a safety factor, is if your KC's go out, you know exactly what circuit, wiring, relay, etc is at fault.
The Panel from Painless Wiring is a nice one, each Fuse/Relay Circuit is rated higher than most other panels on the market and the total amperage that the panel can handle is rated higher, BUT $$$ !.
If the Panel you are talking about, no brand given, has a total amperage that fits what you are doing... AND had at least two high amperage rated circuits, then it could work for you. The question that pops up is the quality of the component in the panel.
OK I got carried away AGAIN, sorry to chew your ear off, but my main idea is build an electrical system that will survive the Hunting Trips today and tomorrow and get you back.
No matter which way you go with your electrical, good luck, take your time and "Do It Right The First Time"... !
LtrLast edited on Mon Apr 29th, 2019 12:58 pm by Scrambler82
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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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