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Intermittent hvac blower problem       #: 1834
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX,
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 Posted: Sat Dec 7th, 2019 06:42 pm
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4.0power
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 2007 2.3 single cab ranger, the blower was working fine one day, come back to the truck a couple weeks later it's working when it wants to, only on high speed (which makes me think resister is bad). Then it started doing the weirdest thing-the blower started pulsing! Like I was turning it on and off. I haven't gotten my meter out yet just curious if any one else has seen this issue before.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 7th, 2019 07:30 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Never heard of pulsing but I can see it happening as the connections rot to the resistor.

Lucky for you they were the same from 95 to 2011, supply is great, price is low, get the pigtail with it. the resistors were not the problem, the pigtail was. I have replaced at least 3 maybe 4 and there is a thread somewhere here on that subject.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 7th, 2019 07:32 pm
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 It's on the first page of this thread:
https://ford-rangers.com/view_topic.php?id=1331&forum_id=54

LOL thread says I've done 5, had to think but that is correct.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 7th, 2019 07:40 pm
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 JAMMAN wrote:
Never heard of pulsing but I can see it happening as the connections rot to the resistor.

Lucky for you they were the same from 95 to 2011, supply is great, price is low, get the pigtail with it. the resistors were not the problem, the pigtail was. I have replaced at least 3 maybe 4 and there is a thread somewhere here on that subject.
When I replaced the resistor in my 2000 Ranger I could not even get the plug off the resistor it was rusted on so bad.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 7th, 2019 10:31 pm
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 That's why you have to buy both pieces. Just cut the wires, take the cruise control screws out if you have one and lay it to the side, take the 2 screws out of the resistor, pull it with the seemingly permanent pigtail still attached.

KEEP IT till you are done with the job, you can't trust the wire colors on the new pigtail you need to splice in the new one according to wire position on the old one (learned that the hard way).

All in all if you approach it knowing the pigtail needs to be cut and probably will not come off the old resistor your life will be easier.

I use dielectric grease on every connector I come across, it makes your life easier in the future.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 8th, 2019 11:01 am
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 Just picked up new pigtail and resistor along with a ton of other stuff. I'll report back later today on if this fixes it .



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2002 xlt 4.0 5r55e 4x4 4.10 rear disc brake swap from sn95 **currently swapping in a 5.0***
2003 2.3 2wd 5 speed single cab dropped 9 inches looks like crap rides like crap but for some reason it’s cool to me
2004 gmc 2500hd 6.6 diesel LLY
1989 foxbody 347 stroker t5 trans
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 Posted: Sun Dec 8th, 2019 04:19 pm
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4.0power
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 So the blower motor was bad but the  resistor was rusted bad and the pigtail melted to it so everything got replaced. Man I love these connectors! Make wiring up the new pigtail a breeze!

Attachment: 6B7DD964-9227-40D5-8E17-5E5D0C29B4E1.png (Downloaded 52 times)



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2002 xlt 4.0 5r55e 4x4 4.10 rear disc brake swap from sn95 **currently swapping in a 5.0***
2003 2.3 2wd 5 speed single cab dropped 9 inches looks like crap rides like crap but for some reason it’s cool to me
2004 gmc 2500hd 6.6 diesel LLY
1989 foxbody 347 stroker t5 trans
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 Posted: Tue Feb 4th, 2020 05:31 pm
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 Funny how Ford never fixed this problem, seems it had to be there before they stopped making the Ranger.

If someone could determine the resistance on each of the Coils and that extra resistor, then just maybe we, all Ranger owners with Heater Fan Problems, could build a Unit with water resistant resistors and just leads coming off the resistor unit, maybe The Buggman could build one, and it would eliminate this problem we are having.

I had mine stop working about six years ago, I replaced it went bad again, when I had the lift done I had the Mechanic replace it again he suggested a new harness, I said do it, worked for about three months stopped again, still broken.  Just doesn't figure.

Looking over the available replacement unit for Fords, I noticed a more electronic unit, had a transistor in the center of a PCB, looked like Ford had come up with a better idea after all, but it was from an early Ford sedan, something from the 60-70 era.

Anyone Electronic Savy enough to build a Unit to replace the HVAC Resistor Pak ?



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 Posted: Tue Feb 4th, 2020 08:01 pm
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 Yes. But not the problem, the problem isn't the resistor itself it is the placement.

I have never had one fail twice. The secret is a copious amount of a high quality dielectric grease in the connector during install. Make sure the gasket surface is really clean when you put the 2 screws in. Then literally fill the front and back of the connector with dielectric grease, where the wires go in the back as well as where the spades go in the front. Put enough inside the cavity of the resistor so it squishes out when you push it in. Wipe it off, you have a near forever heater resistor that you can actually pull the plug off of if you want.

The resistor coils are inside the heater box to be cooled. When you use the blower it blows by the coils. The coils are only needed when the blower is on. A marriage made in heaven. The most amperage is realized at the lower speeds probably why the low speeds go first.

Creating a resistor pack for this would need a large heat sink. I'm sure someone has done it but if you are going that far just make it variable speed with a potentiometer instead of a switch. Then you have all the speeds  :)



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 Posted: Tue Feb 4th, 2020 11:41 pm
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 Thanks Jim,

The Grease,  "The secret is a copious amount of a high quality dielectric grease in the connector during install. Make sure the gasket surface is really clean when you put the 2 screws in. Then literally fill the front and back of the connector with dielectric grease, where the wires go in the back as well as where the spades go in the front. Put enough inside the cavity of the resistor so it squishes out when you push it in. Wipe"

What brand go grease do you use ?

I have Permatex Dielectric Grease and using CRS Cleaner !

Everything I have read say NOT to over use this stuff, reasoning please !

Thx

Last edited on Wed Feb 5th, 2020 12:07 am by Scrambler82



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Wed Feb 5th, 2020 12:39 am
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 It is 12 volts. The main purpose is to keep moisture out. If it were 220 or 480 I can see not using a lot.

I'm just saying what I did and it worked, I will do a little more research but 12V is wimpy and cars/trucks drive through an array of temperature and moisture situations to extremes, I bet if we pointed a go-pro at that spot it gets hit by a stream whenever it rains.

It was a bad design that never got updated properly.



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 Posted: Wed Feb 5th, 2020 11:38 am
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 JAMMAN wrote:
It is 12 volts. The main purpose is to keep moisture out. If it were 220 or 480 I can see not using a lot.

I'm just saying what I did and it worked, I will do a little more research but 12V is wimpy and cars/trucks drive through an array of temperature and moisture situations to extremes, I bet if we pointed a go-pro at that spot it gets hit by a stream whenever it rains.

It was a bad design that never got updated properly.
Thx, I understand !

The idea is to seal out the moisture not guarantee a good connection.

I read through a lot of the U-Tube Videos, a lot show no reluction in conductivity... no appreciable increase in resistance to the current path, so there is no reason not to do it the way you state you do.

I will be doing it your way, this time around, last time no Dielectric was used and it lasted about a month, funny.   I ordered a Motorcraft Resistor Assembly and a Dorman Harness Pigtail, from Amazon, had some Gift Cash left over from X-Mas Gifts.

Hoping this time is the Charm, along with the Washer/Reservoir Tank,and the Vacuum Problem.   It will be good to have the Heater Controls working correctly again... been four or five years.

Jim Thx for the input !



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Wed Feb 5th, 2020 01:12 pm
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 No problem bud that is what we are here for.



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 Posted: Sat Feb 8th, 2020 01:33 pm
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 The resistor and plug were the first things I had to do to my Ranger when I bought it.  Plug was just a blob of melted plastic.  When I did my EATC mod, I am using a totally different fan speed controller setup which also has a different style plug.



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 Posted: Sat Feb 8th, 2020 03:45 pm
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 mhoward wrote:
" I am using a totally different fan speed controller setup which also has a different style plug ".
OK so tell me !

This is one of my biggest future mods I could think of  BUT HOW ?



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sat Feb 8th, 2020 05:42 pm
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mhoward
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 As far as I know, you can only use that variable speed controller if you have EATC.  You don't just have Low, Medium & High.  I have considered posting a How-To on the EATC mod.  It is VERY long with lots of pics... that is why I have not posted it.



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