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turbo swap       #: 337
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 Posted: Sun Dec 10th, 2017 10:10 pm
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black06xlt
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i have a 92 ranger 2.3 2wd 5 speed (project GREEN MILE aka the slut). after pondering for a few days and surfing the interwebs i have decided to boost the slut. nothing major just 5-7 psi. its a work beater nothing more. so with that being said i need help and info on what needs done and what is needed to put a turbo on it and what parts i have to change i.e. the computer fuel pump injectors all of that good stuff. i have found several threads on other sites about this with contradicting info. i need set in the right direction 
:frd



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 Posted: Sun Dec 10th, 2017 10:59 pm
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black06xlt wrote: i have a 92 ranger 2.3 2wd 5 speed (project GREEN MILE aka the slut). after pondering for a few days and surfing the interwebs i have decided to boost the slut. nothing major just 5-7 psi. its a work beater nothing more. so with that being said i need help and info on what needs done and what is needed to put a turbo on it and what parts i have to change i.e. the computer fuel pump injectors all of that good stuff. i have found several threads on other sites about this with contradicting info. i need set in the right direction 
:frd

As cheap as it would be to do it one of two ways really with basic to good reliability features.. either source a SVO Mustang or even easier access, 88 Tbird Turbo Coupe 2.3 motor.

- 2.3T motor
- Tbird T5 trans
- Explorer 3.73'ed 8.8 rear end.

Motor drops right in. Uses all the stock ranger parts, starter, flywheel, trans etc. The 8.8 Explorer rear is a bolt in after swapping shock mounts. Even the drivetrain has a ton of potential at this point.

If you don't kill it a later swap of better forged rods and pistons that are compatible with any Lima 2.3 would do nicely and I am sure the mix of Mahale, SRP, or even J.E. Pistons would oblige it nicely if you just couldn't leave the fun factors alone. I think there is a 93-94 OBD I Rangers that had a dual plugged head with a different intake to make even better power use with flow. (The 95-97 were OBD2)

A 2.3T made 190hp in 1988 with about 15-17.5lbs of boost or so in manual trans and 93+ fuel. 9-11PSI would be more lower octane fuels and auto. 5 PSI probably wouldn't even get the butt-dyno excited. But add better forged internals, do the right things in tuning and suspension and pretty fun around 220-225hp and manageable to control.




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 Posted: Sun Dec 10th, 2017 11:27 pm
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can my trucks wiring be repinned to work with the thunderbird computer or can i just simply reuse my stock electronics and bolt the turbo to my stock 92 2.3



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 Posted: Mon Dec 11th, 2017 12:30 am
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The main difference between the turbo and non-turbo engines were the pistons. The cast pistons in the NA motors really aren't good for much more than that 5 or 6 pounds of boost you mentioned above. Most people don't bother with that and end up at least swapping the pistons out for some forged ones, if not just dropping the whole turbo motor in as I suggested.

Rangers are fairly light, and that 6 pounds of boost may seem like enough to really wake the motor up, but it starts to seem kind of lame when you consider that the turbo motors were putting out 15 psi stock and the early models were capable of around 25 psi with not much more than a $25 eBay manual boost controller.

The 1984-86 turbo 2.3s came with a Garrett T3 which was capable of more boost than the later models which used an IHI turbo that was not quite as desirable. BUT, the later models did come with intercoolers which are a favorable item to have of course but not in its stock location (on top of the hot engine).. FMIC is far better choice and desired.

As for wiring and ECU, depending on what engine you ended up with. I would think leaving the stock truck wiring would be an asset and then repin/rewire specifics from there but ideally the original harness should suffice.

As far as the ECU, I think either a Haltech or there is/was a piggyback I think called somewhat appropriately as PIMP..

***PM us with an email I can forward there info to you, its not going to let me post the link here in any fashion I can fathom after 4 different ways of trying from the original attempt.***

We don't deal with them because of mostly what we do but reputable and wealth of informative.. You MAY find more information on there site to aid your project.


Last edited on Mon Dec 11th, 2017 12:36 am by 12° North Industries



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 Posted: Mon Dec 11th, 2017 05:41 am
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 Posted: Mon Dec 11th, 2017 10:41 am
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12° North Industries wrote:
As cheap as it would be to do it one of two ways really with basic to good reliability features.. either source a SVO Mustang or even easier access, 88 Tbird Turbo Coupe 2.3 motor.

- 2.3T motor
- Tbird T5 trans
- Explorer 3.73'ed 8.8 rear end.

Motor drops right in. Uses all the stock ranger parts, starter, flywheel, trans etc. The 8.8 Explorer rear is a bolt in after swapping shock mounts. Even the drivetrain has a ton of potential at this point.

If you don't kill it a later swap of better forged rods and pistons that are compatible with any Lima 2.3 would do nicely and I am sure the mix of Mahale, SRP, or even J.E. Pistons would oblige it nicely if you just couldn't leave the fun factors alone. I think there is a 93-94 OBD I Rangers that had a dual plugged head with a different intake to make even better power use with flow. (The 95-97 were OBD2)

A 2.3T made 190hp in 1988 with about 15-17.5lbs of boost or so in manual trans and 93+ fuel. 9-11PSI would be more lower octane fuels and auto. 5 PSI probably wouldn't even get the butt-dyno excited. But add better forged internals, do the right things in tuning and suspension and pretty fun around 220-225hp and manageable to control.



That is some of the best advice I have seen on adding forced induction to a NA Ranger on a budget. The other option is the 2.0L I-4 EcoBoost crate engine (252HP). 



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 Posted: Mon Dec 11th, 2017 10:40 pm
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this is all great advice



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 Posted: Thu Dec 14th, 2017 04:11 am
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Found a better way around the info block..


Engine Management System:

Computer: All '83-'89 motors are controlled by the EEC-IV engine management system. It is the same basic system that the '85-'94 Rangers used. Here is where the swap can get interesting. Depending on your ultimate goal you can do any of the following: 
1. low boost (6-7psi) a stock Ranger MAF system can handle this without major problems. 
2. Moderate boost (7-12psi) you should either swap over to a turbo specific computer or have a custom chip burned for your stock computer. 
3. 'Normal' boost (15psi) the turbo computer is recommended. 
4. Wow level (18-25) and WTF level (25+) I'd strongly suggest either a piggyback system (EEC-tuner or EEC-tweaker, etc) or a complete stand alone system (Mega-squirt, etc). 
There are two major types of computers, the P series (PE, PK-1, PC-1,etc) and the L series (LA2, LA3, 8UA) PK's and PC's were intended for non-intercooled engines but respond well when one is added. The LA3 was the latest and greatest of these computers but is not as highly sought after as the PE computer from the '85-1/2 SVO.


Sensors and wiring harness: Along with the computer you will need several turbo specific items 
1. The Vane Air Meter (VAM) it allows the computer to read the volume of air entering the engine. SVO's and '87-'88 T-birds used a large one, all others used a small one. 
2. Boost Control Solenoid (BCS) is handy to have but you can do without it. Having it attached is one less thing that the computer will complain about during a KOEO test. 
3. Barometric Pressure Sensor (BPS) this looks exactly like a MAP sensor but is calibrated differently. 
4. Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor (intercooled engines only) it's in the intake manifold and tells the computer how much the air charge temp has been increased due to compressing it. 


All of the other sensors (TPS, EGR, KS, TFI module, etc.) are common to other 2.3's. If you decide to use the turbo computer you can either, re-pin the trucks existing harness and add a few wires for the turbos unique sensors or pull the harness from the car you got the engine from. If you wish to retain your 8-plug head or simply want to do away with the distributor you can adapt the 8-plug DIS system's module/trigger for use with the turbo computer. On a 4 plug head you will need to apply power to the secondary coil inhibit wire or either run the secondary coil's wires to ground or add a resistor in place of the secondary coils themselves so, electrically speaking, the computer doesn't even know that their gone. You will want to retain the 3-wire O2 sensor and if possible upgrade to the 4-wire sensor that came with '91 and newer Rangers. Also the early computers were calibrated for 30pph 'green top' injectors while later ones used 35pph 'brown top' ones.



There, that should net you a great start at the local pick n' pulls.

Last edited on Thu Dec 14th, 2017 04:12 am by 12° North Industries



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Wiring Pinouts

87-88 THUNDERBIRD TURBO COUPE PIN-OUT

# COLOR FUNCTION
01 Y (KAPWR) KEEP ALIVE POWER
02 LG (BOO) BRAKE ON / OFF
03 DG/W VSS DIF (+)
04 DG/Y (IDM) IGNITION DIAGNOSTIC MONITOR
05 - NOT USED
06 O/Y (VSS-DIF) CRUISE CONTROL (-)
07 LG/Y (ECT) ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE
08 - NOT USED
09 - NOT USED
10 BK/Y (ACC) A/C CLUTCH
11 - NOT USED
12 - NOT USED
13 - NOT USED
14 - NOT USED
15 - NOT USED
16 BK/LG (IGN GND) IGNITION GROUND TFI IGNITION MODULE, DISTRIBUTOR
17 Y/BK (STO/MIL) SELF TEST OUTPUT
18 - NOT USED
19 - NOT USED
20 BK/LG (CSE GND) CASE GROUND
21 O/BK (ISC) IDLE SPEED CONTROL
22 T/LG (FP) FUEL PUMP CONTROL
23 Y/R (KS) KNOCK SENSOR
24 R/Y (OCT ADJ) OCTANE SWITCH
25 P/BK (ACT) AIR CHARGE TEMP
26 O/W (VREF) VOLTAGE REFERENCE
27 W/BK (VAF) VANE AIR FLOW
28 - NOT USED
29 DG/P (HEGO) EXHAUST GAS OXYGEN SENSOR
30 BR/W (NDS/NI) NEUTRAL DRIVE SWITCH (AUTO) / NEUTRAL INPUT (MANUAL)
31 BK/PK (BOOST) BOOST CONTROL
32 - NOT USED
33 Y (EGR S/O) EGR SHUTOFF
34 LB/P (DOL) DATA OUTPUT LINK, USED FOR TRIP/MPG
35 O/W (ACL) PROGRAMMED RIDE CONTROL
36 Y/LG (SPOUT) SPARK OUTPUT TFI IGNITION MODULE, DISTRIBUTOR
37 R (V PWR) VEHICLE POWER
38 - NOT USED
39 - NOT USED
40 BL/LG (CASE GND) BATTERY GROUND
41 - NOT USED
42 Y/LB (KDS) KICK DOWN SOLENOID
43 LG/P (VAT) VANE AIR TEMPERATURE
44 - NOT USED
45 LB/BK (BP) BAROMETRIC PRESSURE
46 BK/W (SIG RET) SIGNAL RETURN
47 DG/LG (TP) THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
48 W/R (STI) SELF TEST INPUT
49 O (HEGO GND) HEGO GROUND
50 - NOT USED
51 - NOT USED
52 PK (HEDF) HIGH-ELECTRO DRIVE FAN
53 DB/Y (LUS) LOCKING UPSHIFT SOLENOID
54 R (WAC) WOT A/C CUTOFF
55 T/O (EDF) ELECTRO DRIVE FAN
56 DB (PIP) TFI IGNITION MODULE, DISTRIBUTOR
57 R (VPWR) VEHICLE POWER
58 T (INJ A) INJECTOR BANK 1
59 BN/Y (INJ)  INJECTOR BANK 2
60 BK/LG (PWR GND) BATTERY GROUND



92-94 FORD RANGER 2.3 PIN-OUT


# COLOR FUNCTION
01 Y (B+) KEEP ALIVE POWER INPUT
02 LG (BOO) BRAKE ON/OFF INPUT
03 GY/BK (VSS) VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR INPUT
04 T/Y IGNITION MONITOR
05 GY (CKP) CRANK POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL INPUT
06 PK/O (VSS) VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR GROUND
07 LG/R (ECT) ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
08 DG/Y FUEL PUMP MONITOR
09 PK/LB DATA (-)
10 DG/O A/C CYCLE PRESSURE SWITCH INPUT
11 - NOT USED
12 - NOT USED
13 - NOT USED
14 LB/R (MAF) MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR
15 T/LB (MAF) MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR RETURN
16 O/R IGNITION GROUND
17 PK/LG (MIL) DATA LINK OUTPUT / MALFUNCTION IDICATOR LAMP
18 - NOT USED
19 - NOT USED
20 BK/LG GROUND
21 W/LB (IAC) IDLE AIR CONTROL OUTPUT
22 LB/O FUEL PUMP ENABLE OUTPUT
23 - NOT USED
24 Y/LG (PSP) POWER STEERING SWITCH INPUT
25 GY (IAT) INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR INPUT
26 BR/W REFERENCE VOLTAGE OUTPUT
27 BR/LG (EVP) EGR VALVE POSITION SENSOR INPUT (MANUAL ONLY)
28 T/O DATA (+)
29 GY/LB HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR INPUT
30 LB/Y PARK / NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH INPUT
31 - NOT USED
32 DB/Y (DPI) DUAL PLUG INIBIT OUTPUT
33 BR/PK (EVR) EGR VACUUM REGULATOR OUTPUT
34 - NOT USED
35 - NOT USED
36 PK (SPOUT) SPARK OUT OUTPUT
37 R POWER INPUT
38 - NOT USED
39 - NOT USED
40 BK/W GROUND
41 - NOT USED
42 - NOT USED
43 P A/C SELECTOR INPUT
44 DG OCTANE ADJUST SIGNAL
45 - NOT USED
46 GY/R SENSOR SIGNAL RETURN
47 GY/W (TP) THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR INPUT
48 W/P DATA LINK INPUT
49 GY/R SENSOR SIGNAL RETURN
50 - NOT USED
51 - NOT USED
52 O/Y A4LD TRANSMISSION SOLENOID
53 P/Y (TCC) TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID
54 PK/Y WOT CUTOUT RELAY
55 - NOT USED
56 GY/O IGNITION MODULE RPM INPUT
57 R POWER INPUT
58 T INJECTOR 1,4 OUTPUT
59 W INJECTOR 2,3 OUTPUT
60 BK/W GROUND


I'm still trying to find a pin-out for a 90 but they should be close and provable with a DVOM and some patience.

Last edited on Thu Dec 14th, 2017 04:16 am by 12° North Industries



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black06xlt wrote: Black06xlt@gmail.com 

Check email..



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 Posted: Fri Dec 15th, 2017 11:26 pm
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thanks for the email. been shopping around looking for the parts. i think i found a complete donor car for $500



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 Posted: Sat Jan 27th, 2018 06:52 pm
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Found this on eBay might be able to use this to piece together a kit. It says it works for the 2.3, idk if I would trust the turbo.

Attachment: IMG_2341.PNG (Downloaded 56 times)

Last edited on Sat Jan 27th, 2018 06:52 pm by MattFX4

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One should ask what do you think your getting in terms of quality for $389 for a complete turbo kit besides an open invite to turn your inline 4 Lima daily grinder into a street side IED? :verymad

And free shipping too ;)

I'd rather spend that kind of money sourcing JY parts and at least know what I am getting into even if I WASN'T ever going to buy an esteemed or established kit for $2-3K

23 years of Ebay and I still wouldn't trust it to get a PB&J sammich as described. I know that sentiment is quite opposite trend or feeling for many but.. its just my opinion.



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what the hell is wrong with this thread and the highlighted everything??



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The only thing that is wrong with this thread is that it is like 7 months old and you posted in it.

Otherwise all is well.

The truck for this project has been sold, nothing to see here.



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yeah except now I want to do a 2.3T turbo ranger...have always loved them
I had a friend with one pushing 450 hp if he could keep his head gasket smashed down
Sweet little powerhouse



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JAMMAN wrote:
The only thing that is wrong with this thread is that it is like 7 months old and you posted in it.

Otherwise all is well.

The truck for this project has been sold, nothing to see here.

 well now well now that I look at it on my phone it looks alright but when I pull it up on the computer everybody's post was like highlighted some teal green. I'll get a screenshot if it does it again



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410customs wrote:
yeah except now I want to do a 2.3T turbo ranger...have always loved them
I had a friend with one pushing 450 hp if he could keep his head gasket smashed down
Sweet little powerhouse

 well if he was well if he was getting 450 horsepower out of that and had a hard time keeping head gaskets in it that would tell me that the power is possible but you need to dial it back just a little bit to enjoy the reliability in it's tune



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Actually the 450 hp was pretty mild compared to some of the 2.3T cars/trucks he was running around with. 600+ hp is possible with that 4 banger, pretty sure some sort of copper gasket had him fixed up. I bought some JBA 4.0 headers off of him that ended up in my BII for many years....



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Ford-Rangers.com Ranger Forum > Ranger Engine Tech > 4 Cylinder Gasoline > turbo swap

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