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Second Chance #: 673

Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX,

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Posted: Tue Mar 6th, 2018 06:50 pm

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RCR4V3N
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2004 Ford Ranger EDGE 3.0L V6 5-speed 4x2 with 4.10 open rear

Owned the truck since new (Oct. 2003). Back in 2013 did an oil change and noticed I only got a little over a quart out. The engine was quiet, no warning lights on the dash, figure its fine. Traced back to a bad Motorcraft oil filter that had expanded and wasn't sealing against the block. About 200 miles later, on my way to work, pull off the interstate and hear the engine knocking. Oil pressure light comes on. Check the oil, full. Get it towed home and pull the oil pan. Find the #6 rod bearing clogging the oil pickup screen. (Lost that photo.)

Start asking around, get quoted somewhere between $3200-$3600 just to throw a junkyard or questionable reman engine in. No place local can do a rebuild.
So truck sits in the back yard for two years before getting moved into the garage to start the engine swap at home.

Last edited on Tue Mar 6th, 2018 06:52 pm by RCR4V3N

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Posted: Tue Mar 6th, 2018 07:51 pm

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Dusten
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Where are you located, a friend with a good shop could do that swap in a day, maybe two with they are competent

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Posted: Wed Mar 7th, 2018 05:38 pm

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MaDMaXX

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Sounds like you're in the midst of doing this swap, do you have the next update?

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Posted: Wed Mar 7th, 2018 05:52 pm

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NoPower

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Pull your cam synic out and make sure the gears were not chewed off. Thats what made NoPower die.

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Posted: Wed Mar 7th, 2018 06:12 pm

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RCR4V3N
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My main issue is cost. I just don't have the money to spend upfront for the replacement so I'm doing it home as I can. At this rate I might have it running by the time my oldest can start driving in 4 years.

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Posted: Wed Mar 7th, 2018 08:00 pm

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12Â° North Industries
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RCR4V3N wrote:
My main issue is cost. I just don't have the money to spend upfront for the replacement so I'm doing it home as I can. At this rate I might have it running by the time my oldest can start driving in 4 years.
It seems as though your capable with tools and knowledge to work on it, time however may be another thing.

You could pull the crank/pistons and do a ring refresh, new bearings, and have them micro polish that particular journal and put an oversized bearing in that and replace a few odds and ends things in there along the way as you button it back up. Or locate a replacement salvage yard engine for a few hundred dollars and just swap it. It's faster, but now you have an engine with an unknown history to contend with in your mind.

Last edited on Wed Mar 7th, 2018 08:29 pm by 12Â° North Industries

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Posted: Thu Mar 8th, 2018 07:50 pm

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RCR4V3N
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Get an engine crane and stand and start pulling the engine. Upper and lower radiator hoses need to be replaced. Get the transmission out, might as well replace the clutch since its out. Engine fan ($%&@!). After all the effort to get it off, I'm going electric. (Ford manual says to remove the fan with the belt and accessories attached, that might have made it easier.)
Finally get the engine on the stand, all the bearings are toast. However, everything else looks just fine.

So full reman long block it is.
And the camshaft synchronizer:

Looks good.

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Posted: Thu Mar 8th, 2018 08:45 pm

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JAMMAN

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It's a 3.0, if you have the cam synch out please just replace it. The gear can look great and it can still be bad and lock up.

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Posted: Fri Mar 9th, 2018 06:26 pm

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RCR4V3N
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Yeah, its on the list. Getting nickle and dimed with all the extras beside the long block (and my desire to try an upgrade everything while I'm at it).

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Posted: Sun Mar 11th, 2018 01:08 pm

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RCR4V3N
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So first and most important, oil pressure gauge:

The 15309 gauge pod fits the 2004 trim:

Got some JBA 1647S-1JT Titanium Ceramic headers for half:

And Buggman was having a Holiday Sale:

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MaDMaXX

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Posted: Sun Mar 11th, 2018 01:11 pm

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JAMMAN

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LOL love the disclaimer he is a character eh?

I did a tutorial on installing that light with an end result video, if you have problems look in.

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Posted: Mon Mar 12th, 2018 06:53 pm

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RCR4V3N
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Several years of sitting did their toll on the headlight and fog light lenses. The headlights are trashed. I restored the fog light lenses with the Sylvania Headlight Restoration Kit. They turned out really good, until they got exposed to something in the garage (WD-40, brake fluid, brake cleaner, paint, acetone, mineral spirits...?) :(
So I bought Morimoto XB LED Fog Light Projectors. Minor modification and some paint to match the fog surrounds:

Last edited on Tue Mar 13th, 2018 05:24 pm by RCR4V3N

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Posted: Mon Mar 12th, 2018 09:54 pm

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I am seeing a lot of dead picture links.

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Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2018 04:23 am

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chris

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Tsquare wrote:
I am seeing a lot of dead picture links.
It is Google! Links from their hosting are not image files - they don't have .jpg, .png etc suffixes.

I am looking into whether we can adapt to accept those links, but as always it is far better to upload images to our server via the gallery so the images are not subject to the vagaries of off site hosting.

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MG power

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Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2018 06:09 am

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JAMMAN

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Chris wrote:
It is Google! Links from their hosting are not image files - they don't have .jpg, .png etc suffixes.

I am looking into whether we can adapt to accept those links, but as always it is far better to upload images to our server via the gallery so the images are not subject to the vagaries of off site hosting.

+26,972.4

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Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2018 07:16 am

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chris

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Lol - thought that might get Jim wound up ! :cheers

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Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2018 05:30 pm

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RCR4V3N
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RCR4V3N wrote:
So first and most important, oil pressure gauge:

The 15309 gauge pod fits the 2004 trim:

Got some JBA 1647S-1JT Titanium Ceramic headers for half:

And Buggman was having a Holiday Sale:

FIX'D (Couldn't edit the original post.)

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MaDMaXX ,JAMMAN

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Posted: Fri Apr 6th, 2018 06:33 pm

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RCR4V3N
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New valve covers came in today, with gaskets and hardware!

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MaDMaXX

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Posted: Fri May 11th, 2018 07:58 pm

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RCR4V3N
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I cleaned up the valve covers and attempted to paint them with PlastiKote Engine Enamel. It did not turn out well the first time. This stuff needs to oven cure before handling. I ended up doing the brackets and timing chain cover.

Ordered some new parts from RockAuto:

Replaced the problem rubber plugs in the M5ROD:

Doorman 555-108 3/8" steel expansion plugs. Hint: freeze them before installing.

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JAMMAN

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Posted: Sat May 12th, 2018 10:57 am

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410customs

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Nice work so far!!!

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I build custom RBV, specializing in drivetrain conversions, wiring, suspension and complete custom trucks

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Posted: Sat May 12th, 2018 02:34 pm

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Mike69

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Looking good.

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