3.Gutless - General Ranger Discussion - Welcome To Our Ford Ranger Forum

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Chewy_719
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I didn't know where to put this so here it is.

Over the weekend I took my Ranger on a little 180 mile trip and found out that this little 3.0L is gutless, which I knew it didn't have that much power when I bought it. I wasn't to worried about it until this little trip. I bought this truck to go hunting with, but now I'm worried that I need a bit more power to get through this high elevation in Colorado.

Is there anything that I could do to the 3.0 V6 that could possibly make it better. I have read a few forums about the V8 swaps and a 4.0 V6 swap just for the little extra power it has. the 3.0 has enough power up to 3rd gear but when your going long distance it sucks.

If anyone could help me out with getting a bit of pep out of this 3.0.

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Posted: Mon May 20th, 2019 07:12 pm

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Chewy_719
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Ok so I have 5 codes that popped up and all of them have to do with the O2 sensor reading RICH and VERY RICH. Now it seems like it wants to die on me at an idle and has a bit of a shake to it at start up.

Can anyone explain this? Could I have a dead cylinder or something?

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Posted: Mon May 20th, 2019 07:51 pm

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what are the codes?

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Posted: Mon May 20th, 2019 08:36 pm

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JAMMAN

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Yes, need the codes, O2 sensor codes can be a lot more than just an O2 sensor.

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Posted: Mon May 20th, 2019 11:16 pm

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Chewy_719
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I have the P1000 code and I'll scan it tomorrow before work and put them in here.

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Posted: Tue May 21st, 2019 08:45 am

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for power in the high rockies of Colorado there are a couple of things you can do no matter what engine you have. Getting more cold air in the intake is a huge bonus up there, the oxygen content in the air is so much lower that getting good combustion is hard. Ever notice they sell 86 octane in Colorado? It is because less oxygen in the air makes anything over 86 worthless, like throwing money away at 5280-11,000' of elevation the air is just thin and you do not need the extra octane My dad always runs turbo cars like his old 96 Supra turbo, he ran 86 octane in that sucker!!, no detonation, no knocking, no problems, I was born and raised in the mountains of CO just FYI)
What your engine does need is more air down its throat. A good cold air intake will do wonders, also a well matched exhaust to take advantage of the extra intake air...even the anemic 3.0 can benefit here.
the next step would be some gears, to climb those passes you could consider re gearing the truck, what gears does your ranger have now? 3.55? 3.73?

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Posted: Tue May 21st, 2019 09:11 am

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Didn't want to advise something shady, but I knocked the insides out of the cats on one and woke it right up. No CEL either. If your state has emissions testing it might not pass but the downstream O sensors don't care it isn't rich enough to make them flag.

Till this day the quickest 3.0 I have ever driven, especially at highway speeds there was a huge acceleration difference.

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Posted: Tue May 21st, 2019 09:33 am

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410customs wrote:
for power in the high rockies of Colorado there are a couple of things you can do no matter what engine you have. Getting more cold air in the intake is a huge bonus up there, the oxygen content in the air is so much lower that getting good combustion is hard. Ever notice they sell 86 octane in Colorado? It is because less oxygen in the air makes anything over 86 worthless, like throwing money away at 5280-11,000' of elevation the air is just thin and you do not need the extra octane My dad always runs turbo cars like his old 96 Supra turbo, he ran 86 octane in that sucker!!, no detonation, no knocking, no problems, I was born and raised in the mountains of CO just FYI)
What your engine does need is more air down its throat. A good cold air intake will do wonders, also a well matched exhaust to take advantage of the extra intake air...even the anemic 3.0 can benefit here.
the next step would be some gears, to climb those passes you could consider re gearing the truck, what gears does your ranger have now? 3.55? 3.73?
I only use 87 oct or higher, I found out with my Dakota that 85 oct in the mini trucks don't last as long as 87 or 91. I believe my truck has 3.73 gears. I couldn't really understand the tag that's on the diff, but the numbers 373 was on one line.

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Posted: Tue May 21st, 2019 09:35 am

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JAMMAN wrote:
Didn't want to advise something shady, but I knocked the insides out of the cats on one and woke it right up. No CEL either. If your state has emissions testing it might not pass but the downstream O sensors don't care it isn't rich enough to make them flag.

Till this day the quickest 3.0 I have ever driven, especially at highway speeds there was a huge acceleration difference.
I don't live in Denver so I'm good on emissions and don't have them and I have knocked cats out of numerous vehicles.

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Posted: Tue May 21st, 2019 09:38 am

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410customs wrote:
what are the codes?
The codes I have:
P0175 Bank 2 System too Rich
P1152 Lack of Heated Oxygen, Bank 2

These codes are in the PCM 2 alone with a P1000 code.

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Posted: Tue May 21st, 2019 09:41 pm

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lack of switching is USUALLY a faulty 02 sensor.
When you unplug the sensor you can take a look at the wiring pins and make sure all is good.
When replacing a bad sensor I simply cut the wires and use a large socket to remove, otherwise there are various 02 sensor wrenches and sockets that can be used. Most of them are 7/8"
The rich code will likely go away when you replace the bank 2 sensor

Last edited on Tue May 21st, 2019 09:43 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Wed May 22nd, 2019 08:17 am

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JAMMAN

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If you frequently work on these things buy the socket set. I use mine more than once a year and they pay for themselves easily in confidence level.

Old brake lines? Cut them off and use a 6 pt socket LOL it is the only way.

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Posted: Wed May 22nd, 2019 09:14 am

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I have stretched out two different 02 sensor sockets to the point of them being un-usable. I prefer the 02 sensor wrench head (like a crows foot) it works much better.....

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Posted: Wed May 22nd, 2019 09:34 am

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410customs wrote:
I have stretched out two different 02 sensor sockets to the point of them being un-usable. I prefer the 02 sensor wrench head (like a crows foot) it works much better.....
I can try replacing the O2 sensor and see if that helps. I have plenty of those O2 sockets, I have a Honda Odyssey that love to destroy the O2's.
Any suggestions on a decent or best O2 sensor.
While I'm at it I will also check the compression in all 6 cylinders just do make sure i don't have a dead cylinder.

Last edited on Wed May 22nd, 2019 09:53 am by Chewy_719

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Posted: Tue May 28th, 2019 09:34 am

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I have replaced to O2 sensor and cleared the codes, but they came back. I was not able to check the compression of each cylinder. Wouldn't I be getting a rich readings from the last O2 sensor if it is running that rich on one side?

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Posted: Tue May 28th, 2019 11:30 am

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JAMMAN

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Stuck injector. You might not even get a code if it is stuck mechanically. Even intermittent sticking would cause a rich condition.

Never seen it on a Ranger but seen a LOT on the GM cars...

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Posted: Tue May 28th, 2019 12:08 pm

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It happens, especially with ethenol blended fuel
Check fuel rail pressure to ensure you do not have a pressure regulator issue
Listen to the injectors click/ fire if possible
Check wiring to each injector that is possible
Then plan to remove intake plenum and fuel rail, service/ bench test the injectors. Many times a cleaning is all they need
Matched set of reman injectors are cheap enough
Plan to replace intake plenum gaskets, injector O rings, injector seats (if 3.0 uses them?) and fuel filter

Last edited on Tue May 28th, 2019 12:09 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Tue May 28th, 2019 12:52 pm

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410customs wrote:
It happens, especially with ethenol blended fuel
Check fuel rail pressure to ensure you do not have a pressure regulator issue
Listen to the injectors click/ fire if possible
Check wiring to each injector that is possible
Then plan to remove intake plenum and fuel rail, service/ bench test the injectors. Many times a cleaning is all they need
Matched set of reman injectors are cheap enough
Plan to replace intake plenum gaskets, injector O rings, injector seats (if 3.0 uses them?) and fuel filter

JAMMAN wrote:
Stuck injector. You might not even get a code if it is stuck mechanically. Even intermittent sticking would cause a rich condition.

Never seen it on a Ranger but seen a LOT on the GM cars...
What should I look for when checking the fuel pressure? The fuel pressure should be in between 60-70 psi correct? The guy I bought it from said he replaced the injectors and fuel rail, but I can't say for sure that he had bank 2 replaced. I t doesn't look like the intake was removed, if it was I'm pretty sure he would have replace the valve cover gasket.

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Posted: Tue May 28th, 2019 01:15 pm

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Why did he replace injectors? Chasing the same codes?
What year is your ranger?

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Posted: Tue May 28th, 2019 02:22 pm

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410customs wrote:
Why did he replace injectors? Chasing the same codes?
What year is your ranger?
It's a '98. I don't know why he replaced them. There is a bunch of new parts on this truck, mostly sensors though, and the water pump out of what I can tell.

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Posted: Wed May 29th, 2019 09:11 am

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Sometimes when changing injectors that's when the problem starts...they must be installed properly and with good seats and O rings. It is very easy to get a piece of debris or something on the backside of the injector which will clog it, also easy to rip an O ring which will cause a leak.... it is just like performing surgery it must be done properly and clean! Aftermarket injectors are garbage, if you hold a Oreillys injector in one hand and a stock bosch 4 hole in the other you will see what I am talking about.
Your 98 Ranger should have two fuel lines? The change from return style fuel (two fuel lines) to a single happened sometime in 98. I am not up on the 3.0 as much as the other engines....

two fuel lines = 36-42 psi fuel rail pressure
single fuel line = 62-68 psi

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Posted: Fri May 31st, 2019 12:07 pm

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410customs wrote:
Sometimes when changing injectors that's when the problem starts...they must be installed properly and with good seats and O rings. It is very easy to get a piece of debris or something on the backside of the injector which will clog it, also easy to rip an O ring which will cause a leak.... it is just like performing surgery it must be done properly and clean! Aftermarket injectors are garbage, if you hold a Oreillys injector in one hand and a stock bosch 4 hole in the other you will see what I am talking about.
Your 98 Ranger should have two fuel lines? The change from return style fuel (two fuel lines) to a single happened sometime in 98. I am not up on the 3.0 as much as the other engines....

two fuel lines = 36-42 psi fuel rail pressure
single fuel line = 62-68 psi
I checked my fuel system yesterday and I believe it's working perfectly. I have a Returnless System and it stays at 64 psi (key on, engine off), and (key on, engine on) IDLE stays at 64-66 psi. So it is working properly and no leaks.

This weekend I will go ahead and check the compression and change out the spark plugs. I will take some pictures and post them to show what I find. Most likely it's something stupid and simple. Hopefully soon I can get some exhaust parts so I can make it simple. 1 CAT and 1 Muffler. That way i can hear the engine and not the fan.

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Posted: Fri May 31st, 2019 01:34 pm

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okay so you have the correct feul pressure in the rail and no visible leaks around the injectors, this is good.
BUT do you have a stuck open injector? Run the engine until warm, goose the throttle then shut it down. Pull the plugs, any cylinders bank 2, 4-6) black and wet with fuel?
This would indicate a stuck open injector.....

Rich condition like yours there is not many ways that can happen. Either faulty 02 sensor effecting that bank, a fuel psi issue or a stuck open injector.
(also a dead cylinder in the ignition, could cause too much fuel)

The fact that your one code p1152 is a "lack of 02 sensor switching" and you have replaced that senor points to an issue with the wiring from PCM to that sensor.......OR a bad injector
It means the 02 sensor is sending signals far outside of the expected range at times. Usually this is wiring, BUT with your truck we also have the other code bank 2 rich, so.....

did you carefully check the pins inside the 02 sensor connector on the truck side? Any chance the wires got burned or pinched upstream?

If so then again we are most likely looking at a bad injector

Let us know what your compression test and the plugs show

Copy and paste from the intrawebz

Possible Causes
Error Code P1152 is usually caused by variable cylinder management system switching from on and off during light throttle conditions, cruising speeds, or when driving on a flat roads. The constant switching causes excessive oil consumption, leading to oil pressure to drop, until it can no longer run the VCM system. Other possible causes include:

Faulty Mass Airflow sensor
Faulty or leak in Intake Air System
Faulty fuel injector
Faulty fuel pump
Leak in exhaust system, fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator
Vacuum leak on engine
Fuel pressure too high or too low
Faulty or leaking secondary air injection system
Faulty PCM (rare)"

Last edited on Fri May 31st, 2019 01:38 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Sat Jun 1st, 2019 04:23 pm

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Well I attempted to check the compression but I need a different tester. The one I have is difficult to get in to test.

But I changed the spark plugs and they were pretty bad but not wet. Bank one was better then bank two. Bank two was black as can be. Still have a P0175 code and P1000.

Should I keep checking the simple things?

Attachment: IMG_20190601_122413531.jpg (Downloaded 20 times)

Last edited on Sat Jun 1st, 2019 04:30 pm by Chewy_719

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Posted: Sat Jun 1st, 2019 05:38 pm

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Clean your mas air flow sensor
Do you have obd2 scanner?

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0175-obd-ii-trouble-code-p0175-system-too-rich-bank-2-by-blake-griffin

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