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Performance Parts, 2000 5.0 Explorer Mot       #: 1473
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX, Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2019 12:51 pm
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410customs

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There are some Torque Monster knock offs these days sold on ebay

If you are 2wd there are other header options



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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2019 01:03 pm
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Was thinking on my '88/5.0L STX Ranger, luv'd that truck.

One problem I had was the motor running  little hotter than I like on the Hi-way at 55-65, around 205 degrees or so.
I tried a lower degree thermostats but did nothing.
Around town, the motor temp was normal, no problems but get it up to 55+ and the temp went up.
I had a friend, a Ford Engineer, we talked about it and hi stated that when I lifted the truck, it created a wind block in the engine compartment, and reduced the air coming through the radiator.
Well... how do I fix it... right; his statement was I needed to release the pressure build up under the hood, again how !
To test his theory, I raised the rear of my hood 1", sort of poor mans Crowl induction but a reverse, not an intake.  The temperature in town, slow driving below 45, was around 180-190, good and on the hi-way the temp was 180-190... WHAM-BAM, he got it right.

What happened, I lifted the truck 5", removed the Bumper / Air Dam to allow a Winch Bumper to be installed, and even with electric fans my temp went high.

So if you see your temp running a little higher than you wanted, especially on the hi-way, either raise the back of the hood or add a reversed hood scoop and open up the back of the hood allowing the air flow to be released.


Something to keep in mind.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2019 02:37 pm
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Scrambler82 wrote:
ILivermore wrote:

Scrambler82 wrote:


ILivermore wrote:



Update 01/21/2019: 

I ordered a re-manufactured long block from Fraser Engines. Has a 5 year/100,000 mile warranty on it. Should be here this week sometime. Will likely be going in the truck the first week of February. On the plus side, the salvage yard I got my original 5.0 from gave me all my money back even though it was outside of warranty.

OK, you now have a good starting point.
The Stock 5.0L should be a good reliable power plant.
Are you planning anything, headers, free flowing exhaust ?

Good Luck with the new setup.

Good to hear there are some good businesses out there, someone that you can go back to and count on.

Ltr

It has Torque Monster headers on it and 2.5" exhaust from the cat back


ILivermore wrote:

410customs wrote:


Heck yes! Let us know how it goes
You should ask them if they can ship it with the explorer style timing cover

I'm not sure if a long block comes with a timing cover. Regardless, I ordered a new timing cover from RockAuto anyway

That's right TM's are the only ones that fit there than the Explorer Junk headers.

So that hose should free up the flow out the back.

Anything other than the Headers or are you sticking to OEM Stock ?

I didn't think a long block came with the timing cover... used, unbroken is as good as new... and it would be factory.
Maybe that JY, where you got your other motor from, may have the right timing cover, might be cheaper than a new one... but you may have said you already ordered one.

What transmission are you thinking on ?

I used a 3 speed automatic on my conversion, a little easier and sturdier than a Ranger 5-sp; if I did it again, I'm thinking minimum a 4 sp OD automatic but there are a few choices out there.

The 3-speed C-4 auto held up really well, I had  shift kit in it to tighten up the shifts, but at 65 I missed the OD.

This swap has technically already been completed once. Its a 2000 Ranger XLT 4x4 (originally 3.0L Flex 4R44E) with a 2000 Explorer 5.0 (blown up) engine and 4R70W transmission. Transfer case is a 4406M out of a 1999 F-150



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 Posted: Tue Jan 22nd, 2019 04:38 pm
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Anyone ever heard of Gulf Pride oil? Just out of curiosity.



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 Posted: Tue Jan 22nd, 2019 06:03 pm
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ILivermore wrote:
Anyone ever heard of Gulf Pride oil? Just out of curiosity.
It is Gulf Oil's high end motor oil. I haven't used it as I use Mobile1.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 23rd, 2019 09:25 am
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Tsquare wrote:
ILivermore wrote:

Anyone ever heard of Gulf Pride oil? Just out of curiosity.
It is Gulf Oil's high end motor oil. I haven't used it as I use Mobile1.

It's what they sent with the engine install kit. Along with NGK plugs

Last edited on Wed Jan 23rd, 2019 09:25 am by ILivermore



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 Posted: Thu Jan 24th, 2019 01:23 pm
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That's right TM's are the only ones that fit there than the Explorer Junk headers

Well not entirely. There was a FMS header that works, I own a set. Will work on GT and GTP heads.

There are at least 2 companies that make clones of the TM headers, one is OBX and the other I can't remember but there is one more.

One thing for sure the stock expo headers are certainly junk. 



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 Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2019 09:36 am
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Long block arrived yesterday. Will be going in truck next week



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 Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2019 09:44 am
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410customs

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I am sure they sent you the dino oil for break in
That oil should have NO DETERGENTS in it for the break in period on a new block

With a fresh engine I change the dino oil at 500 miles then switch to regular (not synthetic) oil for the next 1000 miles change again, and run conventional (non synth) for the first 3000-5000 miles
the more you change the oil and filter now, the longer your new engine will last.
CHECK with your engine builder and see what they recommend


You can get explorer style 5.0 timing cover on Ebay for under $90

make sure you take some pictures!!

OBX and Maximizer are the TMH knock off headers

Last edited on Wed Jan 30th, 2019 09:46 am by 410customs



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 Posted: Wed Feb 6th, 2019 10:59 am
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Update: Cab is in the air



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 Posted: Thu Feb 7th, 2019 10:24 am
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Update 2: First issue i've run into with this reman engine. The engine I ordered is an 'HD' engine. It came with a dual roller timing chain on it. On the front of the cam gear, it has what appears to be some sort of oil slinger. This slinger is hitting the timing cover. Wonder if anyone has run into a similar issue and how to go about addressing it?



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 Posted: Thu Feb 7th, 2019 12:18 pm
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410customs

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Tell your engine builder his timing set not compatible with your timing cover so he can offer advice or?

clearance timing cover
OR install factory Ford explorer timing set which is a dual roller

Last edited on Thu Feb 7th, 2019 12:19 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Thu Feb 7th, 2019 03:15 pm
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410customs wrote:
Tell your engine builder his timing set not compatible with your timing cover so he can offer advice or?

clearance timing cover
OR install factory Ford explorer timing set which is a dual roller

The explorer engine that came out of my truck has a single roller chain



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Fox Racing Coilovers, Eibach Springs
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 Posted: Thu Feb 7th, 2019 03:42 pm
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410customs

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stock explorer should be a dual roller, not as thick as aftermarket but there are two links side by side

I found some pics of our ATK engine and I think I ran into something similar
Is this the piece?


Explorer cover

Cover he shipped



If memory serves we just removed the round piece and used the explorer cover, replaced with a large washer
pushing 30K miles on that setup now

Last edited on Thu Feb 7th, 2019 03:46 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Fri Feb 8th, 2019 03:50 pm
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ILivermore wrote:
Update 2: First issue i've run into with this reman engine. The engine I ordered is an 'HD' engine. It came with a dual roller timing chain on it. On the front of the cam gear, it has what appears to be some sort of oil slinger. This slinger is hitting the timing cover. Wonder if anyone has run into a similar issue and how to go about addressing it?
That is actually the eccentric that drives the mechanical fuel pump used on a carbureted 302. It probably hits because Ford reduced all of the front end clearances to allow the EFI 302 to fit more comfortably in the tight Ex engine bay. Should be easy enough to shorten the eccentric a bit and use it as a spacer. 

If you choose to remove the eccentric entirely, you would need to use the shorter EFI dowel pin. The longer pin indexes and drives the cam, sprocket and eccentric on the carbed version. The shorter EFI pin ties the cam and sprocket together.

Always torque and use thread locker on the center bolt.

EFI Explorer 5.0 with dual roller timing set, factory Ex bolt and washer. The short dowel pin is retained by the hardened washer. You can see part of it below the washer.



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 Posted: Fri Feb 15th, 2019 05:00 pm
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I absolutely can not win with this truck. Now the re-man engine has a knocking/ticking noise coming from the passenger side and two pending codes (P1132 and P1152).



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 Posted: Sat Feb 16th, 2019 04:14 pm
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Oh man..... I was looking forward to hopefully a video soon. 

Code readers! Chime in!



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 Posted: Sun Feb 17th, 2019 05:17 pm
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410customs

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P1132 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich bank 1
P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2

Did you plug in your two upstream sensors? Check HEGO sensor fuses and wiring
The computer is not seeing them
do you have OBD2 scanner?

Knocking ticking from pass side:
Is it exhaust tick? (look for black soot around where sound is coming from inspect exhaust with flashlight)
not uncommon with new manifold/downpipe engine installations
Or is it a new lifter that needs to pump up? (valve train noise)

Last edited on Sun Feb 17th, 2019 05:31 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Mon Feb 18th, 2019 10:29 am
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410customs wrote:
P1132 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich bank 1
P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2

Did you plug in your two upstream sensors? Check HEGO sensor fuses and wiring
The computer is not seeing them
do you have OBD2 scanner?

Knocking ticking from pass side:
Is it exhaust tick? (look for black soot around where sound is coming from inspect exhaust with flashlight)
not uncommon with new manifold/downpipe engine installations
Or is it a new lifter that needs to pump up? (valve train noise)

Those two codes never requested the CEL to illuminate, and have since gone away. I am hoping it is an exhaust leak



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4.56 Yukon Gears
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 Posted: Mon Feb 18th, 2019 10:47 am
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Nice!!!!

Exhaust leak sounds like a tick tick tick tick, the explorer manifolds to downpipes use a stupid round ball in cup style adapter and they always leak unless you loosen all 4 bolts line the flanges up perfectly and torque them all down evenly



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 Posted: Mon Feb 18th, 2019 04:59 pm
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410customs wrote:
Nice!!!!

Exhaust leak sounds like a tick tick tick tick, the explorer manifolds to downpipes use a stupid round ball in cup style adapter and they always leak unless you loosen all 4 bolts line the flanges up perfectly and torque them all down evenly

It has torque monster headers on it. Had a technician look at it and he thinks the header where it meets the head is warped.



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ILivermore wrote:
410customs wrote:

Nice!!!!

Exhaust leak sounds like a tick tick tick tick, the explorer manifolds to downpipes use a stupid round ball in cup style adapter and they always leak unless you loosen all 4 bolts line the flanges up perfectly and torque them all down evenly

It has torque monster headers on it. Had a technician look at it and he thinks the header where it meets the head is warped.

And it sounds like a tick mixed with a puff of air kind of



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 Posted: Tue Feb 19th, 2019 10:31 am
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torque monster headers are shipped with CRAPPY gaskets
You need to use Percy's or Mr gasket style gaskets which are layered metal (deadsoft aluminum) that compresses and makes up any gaps.




TMH flanges are very flat and thick, will be able to get them to seal up with the correct gaskets, it took me three tries on my 88 BII before I had no leaks from the TMH headers, now I go straight to the correct style gaskets and no more issues



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 Posted: Tue Feb 19th, 2019 03:52 pm
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410customs wrote:
torque monster headers are shipped with CRAPPY gaskets
You need to use Percy's or Mr gasket style gaskets which are layered metal (deadsoft aluminum) that compresses and makes up any gaps.




TMH flanges are very flat and thick, will be able to get them to seal up with the correct gaskets, it took me three tries on my 88 BII before I had no leaks from the TMH headers, now I go straight to the correct style gaskets and no more issues


Got a link to either of those that will fit a 2000 Explorer 5.0?



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 Posted: Tue Feb 19th, 2019 05:13 pm
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Oreillys usually has them on the shelf if you have one near or similar store?
Mr Gasket 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/mr--gasket-4367/exhaust-parts-16469/exhaust-manifold-gasket-12104/d97c95cddd6b/mr-gasket-rectangle-port-aluminum-manifold-gasket-set/7410g/4514530/2000/ford/explorer?q=2000+ford+explorer+exhaust+manifold+gasket&pos=2

Last edited on Tue Feb 19th, 2019 05:16 pm by 410customs



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