Undrstm8ed
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4.0power wrote:
V8 Level II wrote:
4.0power wrote:
I've been reading around the ranger station, found a post where someone took 2003 ranger front brake Parts off and swap it onto thier ranger. Could that work for my 2002 4x4 ranger? Since 2003+ uses 12†rotors and 2002 and down uses 11.25†rotors. I tow a lot and plan on adding a lot of hp to the truck so I want to max out the brake department.
Yes, it is possible to bolt on the later 4x4 rotors, calipers and pads. To do this would also require changing to the later steering knuckles which have revised caliper mount hole positions to accommodate the larger rotors.
Ford's change from 11.28" to 12" 4x4 Ranger brakes actually happened in mid model year 2003. So, early 2003MY 4x4 Rangers had the same parts as your 2002. Most auto parts store lists fail to mention this important piece of information. IMO, it would be safer to order 2004 parts to avoid the potential confusion caused by early/late 2003 differences.
So I would need rotors, pads, calipers, and the knuckles, that all? Will my wheel bearings fit the newer knocked? local JY got a 2004 ranger. Might have to stop by and see what parts are left.
Bearings may fit but with the knuckles being different... ??, May be best to cross reference the parts at a local parts or use part numbers on Rockauto maybe.
I don't think you're going to see much improvement in .75" larger rotor UNLESS you're running a larger wheel and tire combo and even then I'd be curious as to its measurement of difference. IF you were say stuck in a 93-94 yr and wanted to get away from the single piston floating caliper to a dual piston.. I couldn't really argue for a more positive braking feel from more brake surface touching the rotor in general.
But Stock pads are gonna be the same size, not larger, you're just grabbing the rotor in a different way to slow down larger mass at the four corners if you will. You could ideally get the same result using a EBC or Hawk pad even on the stock 11.25" rotors. The slotted rotors due help with some cooling but best by removing brake fade the most, that's what they were designed to do. Cross drilled rotors I don't recommend for our applications so much because of several reasons. One, they're meant for limited use, heavy use and then you toss them in favor for new ones. The chamferred holes are nearly impossible to turn at most shops and when you do find a shop that will do it its ridiculous cost compared to the typical $5-10 turning. They're popular most due to marketing and "cool factors" and not the ones they're advertising. IF you off road in sandy or muddy environments they pick up and hold rocks and debris and cause other issues too.
Your better option on top of pads would be to increase pedal pressure by opting for a SS brake line to replace the soft rubber lines. If you've ever watched videos on brake lines when you panic stop or even hard stop in some cases you'll quickly understand why brake lines rupture or burst under such conditions. Those soft lines expand, where the SS lines are held under a constrictive manner and keep pressure moving down or through the line without swelling, and thats where the positive braking is really felt.
hope some of that info helps
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