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Seasoned...
Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Location: Near The Pointy End , USA
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Wow, thanks for the info! I've been thinking, would I see the best braking response if I were to swap to the bigger rotors AND use SS line? Seems like that would be like the winning combo.
The only way you would gain any advantage here is rolling either 17"+ wheels and or 35" tires, or a combo thereof. Not that its a whole lot due to only 0.75" larger rotor, the area in which the brake grabs is what DOES make slowing down larger mass in tire or wheel or even combo. Think of it in the sense of rotating mass. Generally anytime you can minimize rotating mass, or you are lightening up the 4 corners, the vehicle will Accelerate, brake, and handle better. The use of a larger rotors CAN help in other ways. Obviously more surface area makes it easier to cool down quicker as well take longer to build up heat soak eventually letting into brake fade - However you're not likely driving your truck 3 digit speeds to warrant that attribute.
Also.. Comparing just front pads part numbers on Rockauto, I found that in anything marked as heavy duty or performance related the length of both pads remains the same at 154mm whereas 2004 DOES jump from 153.4mm to 156.1mm and both pads also remain at 16.5mm thickness. However anything Motorcraft premium pads were the same part numbers between the 2002 Ford Ranger and then the 2004 Ranger. So take that for what its worth.
Larger driving rotating mass and only 2.7mm increase in pad width thats possibly due to design than stopping power. it just doesnt make sense doing all the work.
I recently liberated a set of 95-97 Ranger knuckles for the very similar purpose as what you're thinking, using the Sport track Rotors from 2004. All the bearings should be the same in 2WD but I am unclear on the 4WD. I'd have to thumb through a half dozen or so .PDF files I have on the subject. MY biggest interest was mostly the larger amount of surface area utilizing the dual pistons over the single larger one, not to mention rid myself of that horrible ass floating piston BS where once every 4-7 months I seem to out a rubber pin from the drivers side caliper somehow. At least the dual piston calipers BOLT ON to the knuckle.
As for the SS lines.. "placebo" effect is a bit staunch unless your a light brake user to begin with dragging those brake pads 600 ft before any real threat of a stop is needed. If thats the case, I'd be more concerned with glazed brakes more so. Moderate driving in random traffic is a confidence booster. Track use, a def difference especially heel & toe'ing on an autocross course.
Im on the fence with what my plans are due to the fact I am doing a frame up changeover.. using a Dana 35 with 44 Stubby knuckles. and I am looking into what will or wont work with that brake wise.
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