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clutch got me stumped       #: 1179
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX,
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 Posted: Mon Aug 20th, 2018 03:18 pm
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The Demon
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 i have a 2000 ranger 3.0 with 5-speed transmission, had the clutch disc fail about a month ago due to leaking slave that i put off due to not wanting to drop the trans at the time. i have replaced my entire clutch system, disc, pressure plate combo from LUK (07-140), bought the entire hydraulic system (twice because i messed up the master the first time) and have bled the system 7 ways to sunday but cannot for the life of me figure out why the system wont even go into gear at this point. i know that the slave has plenty of travel and that the hydraulic system is bled properly, all the components are correctly installed ( have torn it apart and redone it 3 times to make sure everything was done correctly) if you can figure out what i am missing please speak up

have thrown a link to 4 videos i took yesterday to show my issue and the throw-out travel, 2 vids are engine off, 2 are truck running.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19Fs...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19Fs...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19Fs...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19Fs...ew?usp=sharing

Last edited on Mon Aug 20th, 2018 03:18 pm by The Demon



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2000 trailhead 3.slow 5-speed - 4x4 swapped, 1354m, 33s, custom bumpers, e-fan, lights galore.
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 Posted: Fri Aug 24th, 2018 11:22 pm
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MaDMaXX

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 Are you certain the clutch is bled properly?

I ask because the only way to do that is to invert the cylinder, it's basically upside down and won't bleed properly whilst still attached to the mount points :(

I have to unbolt mine and finish bleeding it so i can get into gear more easily.



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 Posted: Sat Aug 25th, 2018 12:03 am
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The Demon
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 It has been bled 7 ways to sunday using every trick out there, its not a hydraulic issue. Watch the video and you will see there is more than enough travel in the slave which means it is bled enough



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- Demon

2000 trailhead 3.slow 5-speed - 4x4 swapped, 1354m, 33s, custom bumpers, e-fan, lights galore.
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 Posted: Sat Aug 25th, 2018 08:05 am
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JAMMAN

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 Might there be different clutches for this particular vehicle? I'm not a clutch guy but being a hard core 2000 guy I know there were several changes during the 2000 model year to other components the biggest I know off the top of my head was a few months of vacuum hubs and the rest with full time hubs.

C'mon DreadedSled the tranny dude chime in!

Wait that didn't sound right. He works at a transmission shop.



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 Posted: Sat Aug 25th, 2018 08:12 am
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 What happens when you try putting it in gear - does it go in with the engine stopped but not if the engine is running?

Does is make a grinding noise if you put it in reverse ?

If these are true then the plate is either not disengaging with the flywheel or the gearbox input shaft is stuck in the crank spigot.

If it goes in gear with the engine stopped, jack up the driving wheels, put it in gear and start the engine, depress clutch and apply the footbrake gently - this will either stall the engine if the clutch is engaged or break it free if it or the spigot are stuck.

PS you did wash off any preservative from the new clutch pressure plate, didn't you?



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 Posted: Sat Aug 25th, 2018 10:40 am
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The Demon
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 I did not apply anything to the disc, simply installed it it doesnt go into any gear forward or reverse



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 Posted: Sat Aug 25th, 2018 11:55 am
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chris

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 Most clutch pressure plates come with a grease anti rust coating.

If you did not wash this off then the driven plate may well be stuck to the pressure plate and will spin the gearbox shaft even with the clutch depressed.

You won't be able to get gears with engine running but you will with it stopped.

Your 4 videos are all the same one!



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 Posted: Sat Aug 25th, 2018 11:58 am
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The Demon
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 Give me 5 minutes to fix that issue, realized that yesterday on a couple of my posts on other forums. I will fix it here since i missed it



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 Posted: Sat Aug 25th, 2018 12:04 pm
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The Demon
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 well looks like i am not allowed to edit the original post so here are the links showing all 4 vids:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/14oxPTScSANrg1zahA7eyqmljsUum6VlF/view

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19Fsdu7oEWlIUq8TFuwcjkYbP6tzG-__q/view

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cGlnfyJVQesGi9lqNsj1fLyGsE5iEZd7/view

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k9AV5YTcSLTOPztBKS6mnFB_9RE0V5oi/view



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- Demon

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 Posted: Sat Aug 25th, 2018 01:48 pm
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 Well it looks like the gears are going in with the engine stopped.

", jack up the driving wheels, put it in first gear and start the engine, depress clutch and apply the footbrake gently - this will either stall the engine if the clutch is engaged or break it free if it or the spigot are stuck."

Just let us know what happens and we can point you in the right direction.

PS If you are wondering about my credentials to give this advice, I rebuilt gearboxes & engines for a living till I retired last year - I have freed up many stuck clutches in my time....



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 Posted: Sat Aug 25th, 2018 01:59 pm
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The Demon
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 I will attempt this the first chance i get to play with the truck again and let you know what happens



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 Posted: Sun Aug 26th, 2018 03:33 pm
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 The Demon wrote:
I will attempt this the first chance i get to play with the truck again and let you know what happens
Grabs Popcorn and waits for the intro scene... "Defective User, The Saga Continues"


LMFAO - j/k brotha



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 Posted: Tue Aug 28th, 2018 01:36 am
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The Demon
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 Tried adjusting the preload on the clutch disc today and it made no change, put the truck in 1st and tried to start it with clutch fully depressed and truck tried to lurch so disc is still engaged. Bought a new pilot bearing and gonna drop the trans tomorrow and hope it fixes all the problems I've been having.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 28th, 2018 01:41 am
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MaDMaXX

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 Sounds like it's gunked on then, you'll still need to use brake cleaner or something on the discs to rid them of the packing grease/coating.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 28th, 2018 01:46 am
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The Demon
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 MaDMaXX wrote:
Sounds like it's gunked on then, you'll still need to use brake cleaner or something on the discs to rid them of the packing grease/coating.
Im gonna hit the pressure plate with some brake clean when it all comes apart to ensure that the pilot bearing is replaced and in good shape, may as well kills 2 birds with 1 stone



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 Posted: Tue Aug 28th, 2018 05:23 pm
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The Demon
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 Well, turns out my pilot bearing was non-existent.



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2000 trailhead 3.slow 5-speed - 4x4 swapped, 1354m, 33s, custom bumpers, e-fan, lights galore.
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 Posted: Tue Aug 28th, 2018 05:31 pm
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 At least you know!



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 Posted: Tue Aug 28th, 2018 08:02 pm
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 When you had it out the first time, did you replace the pilot bearing?
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 Posted: Tue Aug 28th, 2018 08:09 pm
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The Demon
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 I dont remember pulling it but it wasnt there when i dropped the trans today, installed a pilot bearing today and double checked on torque on the pressure plate to 205in-lbs



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 Posted: Tue Aug 28th, 2018 08:21 pm
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 What about the rear main seal?
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 Posted: Tue Aug 28th, 2018 08:41 pm
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The Demon
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 Rear main is fine, not leaking and quite honestly not a concern of mine at this time, i need the damn thing to be able to go down the road to even have a care about a oil leak that ain't there at this time



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 Posted: Wed Aug 29th, 2018 12:14 am
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Eddie Money
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 Pilot to bombadere, pilot to bombadere. I think you intended to change it and it slipped your mind. Good save!



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 Posted: Wed Aug 29th, 2018 12:27 am
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The Demon
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 Well minor update, pilot bearing and spraying a liberal amount of parts cleaner on both the pressure plate and flywheel and shes back on the road, test drive completed successfully



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 Posted: Wed Aug 29th, 2018 12:33 am
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 Another FR success story. Right on. Keep on truckin!!!



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